If you use a couple regular twist drill bits for a pilot hole (prior to using the step-bit), I think it would help make the final mounting holes even more accurately placed Also, I'd use a straight edge (of some sort) to measure from, to mark the EXACT location... Place the straight edge against the frame and measure from there. Center punch the exact location, then use the twist drills, and then the step bit.
@@300whiteout9 if you plan on doing a full frame swap then old cop cars are really cheap. if you want the IFS your local junkyard would be best versus buying a wreck one. a cop car will run 1500-2500 depending on mileage. but the 4.6 is a bullet proof motor if taken care of.
Just a correction, the bushing you modified was nit for toe adjustment. Toe is adjusted via the tie rods, what you modified would be for caster and/or camber adjustment
Loving it. Keep the vids coming. I did the Vic front and MKViii rear on my 67 F100 and it's awesome, it's still under construction but I'm on to the bodywork next. Can't wait to see your truck complete. The F100's are the next C-10's, they're crazy hot right now.
I copied the kit that Dave Held sells at Team321.com. I don't do Facebook but checkout these if you haven't already.....MKVIII/ Thunderbird IRS Group, Fixem Your Way, and 48-66 F1 Crown Vic suspension swap Group all on Facebook all extremely helpful. TBSC Shop and Super Coupe Performance for pieces n parts for the rear. Unfortunately a lot of parts for the rear are obsolete. Check em out and hope its useful to you.
@@ronniesmith915 I will look at those asap! Thanks man! I really really appreciate it! I've seen that kit but was afraid that it would make the tail stick up higher than I wanted.
The rear sits perfect. Dave's kit is pricey for a couple pieces of scrap iron. Jake's front CV kit was well worth it, I used that kit also. Google F100 IRS Swap, tons of good info. I wish I knew how to send a link to this one article that shows step by step with all the measurements for the rear. I'm not computer savvy...lol... but google F100 IRS swap.. ford-trucks.com forums comes up and look for '70 F100 CV IFS/TBird IRS Build.... that article helped me out a ton.
Good video and explanation I think I have seen dozens of videos that just confused me more but you pointed out the main attachment points, it seems all downhill from there everything else falls into place.
a few guys are just having the bushing pressed in and out, Richey suspension I think it is sells the rear a-arm mounts already done for 120, i did his kit and the upper mounts from outcast Kustoms. curious if your measurements are the same for a 61. Keep on trucking lol
I have seen that! I unfortunately do not have a press...yet. The measurements will be the same for all trucks using the Twin I Beam suspension. ill never stop truckin lol
just stumbled across your build. this is awesome im going to have to start from the first video now. i have a 72 long box and a 08 vic. planing on doing same thing.
I couldn't agree more! that is actually i came back and did at a later time but did not film. the metal is thick but the contact area is limited. i would recommend filling the gap.
I know what a step bit is, found out when making holes in the frame for a front reese hitch. they are awesome! ... I like the twin I beam on my Ranger, don't know why anyone would want to swap a car front end. . . . . I would be very interested in a video on changing the rear leaf suspension with drum brakes to a coilover with disc brakes.
The Ibeam suspension is actually a really nice setup as is so I can see why you like it but it can cause issues when you either lower or raise the vehicle. I plan on doing a 4 link setup on the next project so stay tuned!
Just ran across your video. You need a microphone on your shirt cuz there were times when i couldn't hear what you said. Also those rear mount bushing on the front lower control arms are not for toe adjustment, the tie rods on the rack and pinion are for toe adjustment . If those bushings were in an angle on the crown vic that tells me that is a Caster adjustment aka steering axis inclination. So what rear end are you using. I have an 83 F100 and this looks like a good mod for better ride comfort, as mine ride like a dump truck. Thanks and keep up the good work. No bitching , just bringing up some points.
Your videos help thaks just a thought on the back bracket for the a arm why flat why not make the bracket so it slopes for the bushing rather cut and reweld
Nice work man I have a 75 f150 with 06 crown vict ifs, 4.6 32v with 4r70w, 9in rear end. I'm about to start the wiring on the truck which mean I going have a couple of frustrated days ahead.
After watching yours. I'm really glad I'm doing all Jaguar xjs independent front and rear. Plus it's a lot narrower than the Crown Vic is. I was going to ask why didn't you knotch your frame up an 1-1/2 . But after seeing your rear mounts. I see why. The Jaguar only has to mount at the first part like yours. There are no rear arms to the frame. I have the same rear end as you have but I'm not going to use it. I'm putting in the matching Jaguar IRS. I have modified the front to accept air bags. When I get to the rear I'll modify it for air bags also. How low to the ground will yours sit at your set ride height. Where are you located?
I wanted the jag ifs sooooo badly but there were none in my are (Tucson AZ) so i went with the next best thing. the ride height is goin to be around 3-4 inches above the ground with coils...thats the plan for now.
trying to do this on a 1959, anything i should know about ahead of time? Also, i have it mostly mocked up but not bolted down, and when i went to drop my 351 Cleveland in I noticed an HUGE problem, the oil pan is going to hit. Ideas?
The 59 didn't have the Ibeam suspension so the bolt up measurement is going to be a bit different. You will need the oil pan from the van model with the 351w. That should clear the cross member! Let me know how it works!
I’m going to do this front end to my 1965 f100. Can you tell me what all I need from the parts on the front end of the Crown Vic. I’m getting it from a salvage yard.
The IFS is a complete unit. it simply unbolts from the crown vic frame. I would make sure it comes with the power steering rack and pinion, the 4 bolts used to attached the ifs to the frame and if possible the steering shaft knuckle. You dont need the last one but it makes life easier in the future.
This video makes me so sad.. Back in the mid 2000s me and my friend was working on a 65 F100 restoration/build which we had lovingly named LuciFord due to the fact the end product with all our performance parts and engine was going to be evil fast with Fords 7.0 427 out of a salvaged 66 Fairlane that someone had crashed. When we found her she was a hunk of rusted shit with dents and holes everywhere. I spent every weekend for 3 years sanding, bending, cutting, fabricating sheet metal, welding the body back to its original pristine factory shape. During a bad thunderstorm we had a tornado come through which while it didn't directly hit took down a massive 80 foot pine tree dead center on the cab if the truck not only destroying the cab but totally bending up the frame. Luckily the engine wasn't in her but... In 10 seconds all my 3 years of work was destroyed. Ugh... Now I'm getting emotional all over again. Cool vid
I have a 1981 step side F 100, I'm not a fan of the old I beam front end what can I do to switch it out with something better? I have looked all over the place on line and can't find anything... any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated
Derek stone. I would do Jaguar xjs independent front suspension. It's even easier to install over the Crown Victoria. Plus you can either bolt or weld it solidly in. The Jaguar is narrower than the crown Vic is also. Easier to find nice offset wheels. The crown vic is a more popular swap because the Jaguar is a bit harder to find. I think a better swap. But we each have our opinions about that.
Call me crazy but I've got a 66 F100 long bed and I've been trying to figure out which year of Crown Vic or Grand Marquis or town car to use and I'm not happy with the layouts on any I would like rack and pinion steering and I wanted to lay out the rear without cutting the bed so I have done a lot of thinking and the fact I have the parts car decided to go with a 1986 300ZX full front and rear suspension I'm going to modify adjustable coilovers to fit twin beam spring pockets using the control arms spindles rack and pinion and cross members off the 300ZX in the front giving me a 57 inch track width front and rear allowing for very wide tires very minimal cutting to the body I'm only going to run 15 or 16 for now but I wanted a deep dish wheel and I may go to a 18s very soon if I find a set I can afford I'm using what I have on hand flame me if you want for import parts but really if it's not stock what does it matter where the parts came from if they fit work and do what I want with the money I have to spend I'm also using the 300ZX semi trailing arm rear suspension and it's going to be bagged all the way around so I can haul my bobber in the bed with a full bed floor
I actually think its a great idea. I even looked into the 300zx rear end but was unable to find one easily. You gotta work with what you got and can get! I do like ford with for and chevy with chevy but sometimes it doesnt work out that way with what your trying to do. I have a 1958 Ford 100E. its a really small car and I want to go independent on it but ford doesnt really make anything that small so I will have to go import for those components. You should follow me on Instagram and share your project. Would love to see it done!!!
any issues with p/s did one with a 70 clevland faciory pump it worked before when i started it up it blew the pump bought a new one its pumping but the rack locks up did i just get a bad rack with mine or is it a press issue
The old pumps with work with the CV rack and pinion just fine. Make sure you have the lines hooked up correctly. One is the pressure line and the other is a return line.
Where would we be without welders? Like how you are using a system from the Crown Vic to make this happen instead of fitting a bunch of unrelated parts.
At 4:30 I do not believe that is for "toe" adjustment, positive(+) and negative(-) toe is done through the tie rod ends. At 10:30, the oval slots in the upper stub frame mounting bracket (in and out) are for your camber adjustment. What I don't see is the caster adjustment...
@@moose4130 As a retired Ford, Lincoln, Mercury technician I disagree. "Neutral" caster is the position of the spindle at 90° to the pavement. The truck is in "neutral" caster. "Positive" caster is the top of the spindle moved *back* from the front of the vehicle. "Negative" caster is the top of the spindle moved to the front of the vehicle. Those oval slots are for moving the top of the spindle in for "negative" camber, or moving the top of the spindle out for "positive" camber.
I’ve been planning on doing a swap using my 07 CVPI, on a 66 F100 short bed. The 66 I was saving up for sold, seller has a really nice 60 F100 short bed with the big window. Anyone know of potential issues or differences I might run into with the 60 vs the 66?
that is a beautify truck but it does not have the i-beam suspension so the measurements i list here will not work. The CVPI IFS will still fit perfectly but you will have to find the center for mounting it in a different way unfortunately.
It was just the one hole and since the backing was the kit I just filled the small edge with the welder and redrilled to make it perfectly round for the bolt.
The 1965 F100 was the first truck in the country to receive an independent front suspension, in the form of the Twin I-Beam. So yes! it will. Prior years will require different measurements
@@jackietankersley9673 NOT at all lol. I am right were my last video left off. Trying to relocate the garage to phoenix and then the project continues!
to be honest the frames should be exactly the same BUT ford started putting larger egg crate engines in the trucks at that point so the front cross member may be different.
If you are talking about the seams on the kit peices themselves, I will not. The seems that we did weld are around 2 inches long. Any further welding wouldn't be necessary, but it is an option if you wished to. As far as the points connected to the frame they are welded all the way around. Are you going to use this kit?
@@joeyleclaire I was going to do that as well! The measurements for where to put the dowl will still be the same. I couldn't find the sleeves that are in the Vic originally otherwise I would have done the same. Please let me know how it goes. I have an Instagram. Would love to see your progress!!
Had I not needed the cash a while back I would have kept my 04 CVPI and found a truck. My son totaled it, but I think the front suspension was still good enough to reuse. And I would have just swapped the motor and trans over. Would have made for a cheap project. Maybe someday soon. I've got a bike project that needs finished before anything else happens.
Haha I have too many projects going on at once. The Vic ifs is extremely strong. So even after the wreck it was probably in good condition. What kind of bike are you building?
@@BlackLabelGarage 1977 (year I was born) Yamaha XS650 bobber style. I've had it for 3 years, but money became an issue so it was put on the back burner. Now that I have some expendable money again I can hopefully get it going again.
Hahahaha I've gotten a lot of comments about the music lately. I think I'll just cut it out in the future. I'm happy that your enjoying the build! It has been a blast!! The kit is the CV IFS kit from back yard customs
Man, you gotta work on your audio levels. When you're speaking, I have to crank the volume wide open and still struggle to hear you. then the music comes on and my ears are blasted.
I have heard that. I have gotten a new mic which should help my audio vocally and I will be using Adobe Premier for my future vids. Should make a big difference. Sorry about your ears!!!
