F100 Crown Vic Swap II 

nice! glad to hear these videos are helping you guys out, even if it just gives you some motivation! Thank for the comments!

Always awesome to see Summit like and comment on my videos!! Thanks!

It is also there to keep you from getting killed when a line fails. Never remove these parts.

haha me too! Thanks!

330_Garage your content is great, I like what you’re doing... I’ve got an f100 staked out... hoping to CV & 8.8 swap it... what’s up with your rear wheel backspacing issue? Have you figured out which wheel & BS?

@@scottharvey3054 rear wheel back spacing is just temporarily resolved with some cheap Ebay 2 inch spacers for those CV wheels. I think some aftermarket wheels will resolve the need for such a huge spacer. I'll be sure to do a video as I work through that

330_Garage thanks for the reply !

Thanks for watching!

do you have the lottery numbers for this week too while we're gazing into the crystal ball? ... weird not a single problem yet

Did you have problems turning lock to lock? My 65 looks like I need perches to move the rubber lines out towards the wheel a little

@@crash67532 so, the 65 is different than the bumpside, but on my 67, i go lock to lock with no problem.

Correct! I added one in the rear. I have another video I am working on posting, where I put a 4 link in the truck, and installed one when I did all that.

Thanks! i'm trying to get back to it, and keep a schedule going! Its awesome to hear the support from everyone!

Have a link to that...

Interesting. I see a lot of guys building steering columns with no slip joint in old hot rods and stuff.. . but not many guys talk about the problems they may be having after a few thousand miles. That seems like a valid point, I will keep in mind. Thanks!

@@330_garage3 its a company on the F100 FB groups that sells the kit with both u joints, DD sleeve & DD shaft with anti rattle spring and is very well priced. Plus in the event of a severe front impact the frame can move up to 6” before shoving the shaft into your face....that was more my concern since all OEM including the CV has “collapsable” shafts. Good luck on the build i enjoy watching

Park Reverse Intermittent Neutral Drive Low Extra

Yes, probably better than a small block. After putting a small block in mine, the springs are super stiff, and need some more weight on them. I'm probably going to have to get coil overs to get it to not ride like a wagon. For mounts I would check out OutcastAutoWorks. He makes really nice stuff that will allow that 460 to sit right in place. Heres a link: www.outcastautoworks.com/collections/ford-f-series-crown-vic-swap-motor-mounts/products/pre-order-f100-crown-vic-swap-big-block-429-460-polyurethane-motor-mounts I'm running an LS, so I plan to just merge the power steering lines together from my GM pump to the crown vic rack.

Yeah a couple of long bi-metal blades on a sawz-all would work. Its going to eat up a few blades and beat you up, but it would get the job done. You may ask around, you'd be surprised who's friend's dad, has a plasma they would be willing to bring over and cut up an old truck for you

I used a Holley Street Avenger 670. I have used those in the past and I really like them. For the duel feed fuel line, I used one from summit racing that was really nice. www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220106bn-b

Yes, I put one in the rear, mounted to the frame, so I can keep the system balanced

Do you happen to know what type of proportioning valve is needed?

@@domfattarusoracing on mine I ordered one for disc/drum brake system from Jegs

Pedal only has the 1 hole. Hopefully this brake booster works out and doesn't need some crazy adjustment in the future. I guess I won't really know until I am able to start the engine and put some vacuum on it

Yes, bolts up and works out great. You can see in my later videos, the engine clears it, and its right at home there

Yes should be mostly the same! haha Yes join the LS swap club!

Brake line is cheap, I just thought if the OEM front end had one on it, I might as well use it. its not too late... I could bend up another one....

I am going to do a 4 link swap in the rear, and use the same 8.8 rearend. The leaf spring setup doesn't seem to be very solid. Video to come on installing that 4 link!

I test fit the engine this weekend.. and the steering shaft had enough clearance! Clearance was my original concern, thats why i started with the u-joint in the middle of the shaft.

I installed a lowering kit, and did an axle flip in the rear. The rear sits much lower than the front now, even after the crown vic swap. I ordered a 4-link for the rear, I'm hoping that will give me a lot more adjustability in the rear ride height.

@@330_garage3 the rear sat lower, even with the engine and trans set in the truck?

No, haven't seen anyone doing much to the later year models yet, besides the bolt on kits. Would be a cool idea to put a crown vic under one though.

2003-2009 Crown Vic, grand marquis or Lincoln town car. OR the CV police interceptor 03-2011

Drum/drum systems run at similar pressure front and rear, as do disc/disc systems. Disc brakes require more pressure (but less volume) than drum brakes, which is why a proportioning valve is necessary with disc/drum systems. You may or may not need a proportioning valve with your new brake system. Assuming the truck had a factory drum/drum system, that is most likely not a proportioning valve. I agree with Dano that you should have left the factory distribution block. It is a multifunction unit designed to detect a hydraulic failure, notify the driver through the warning lamp, and stop flow to the failed circuit. In regards to changing the pedal ratio, you may need to change to a different bore size master cylinder to get proper stopping power with a reasonable amount pedal pressure. If you have to change the master cylinder, look for one that has the same size reservoir for the front and rear, otherwise keep a close eye the fluid level. You will find the level will drop as the brake pads wear and you don't have a lot of reserve volume for the rear with a disc/drum master cylinder. When you're bleeding the brakes, be sure that the pedal can't go all the way to the floor when you open a bleeder (with no air in the other brake circuit). The front brake piston should be able to bottom out against the rear brake piston, or the rear brake piston should be able to bottom out in the cylinder bore (while the other piston is still holding pressure) before the pedal hits the floor. If it doesn't, there's no point in having a dual circuit master cylinder as a failure in either brake circuit will result in a complete loss of brakes. Also, in case you aren't aware, any decent auto parts store should have 25 foot rolls of steel tubing. I find it more convenient to make my own lines than dealing with the pre-made lengths. Some people like the nickel copper tubing because it's easier to work with, but it can work harden and fail sooner and doesn't have as good abrasion resistance. I find 3/16 steel lines to be easy enough to work with and most bends can be made by hand. If you replace the lines from the master cylinder to the frame, make sure to put a coil in the line. That coil is to reduce fatigue as the cab mounts and firewall flex and the master cylinder moves in relationship to the frame. Without those coils, your lines won't last long. They're easy to make by wrapping the line around a piece of pipe. Good luck with your project and thanks for sharing.

I agree about Rock Auto. Twice I've ordered from them, waited a week, and got the wrong parts. Returning them when you live 50 miles from town is a pain in the ass. Now I just drive to town and pay a little more for the RIGHT parts.

I sold them. But you can find a set off of a dodge van in a salvage yard, usually dirt cheap.

I'm in McKinney TX. I ordered the kit off ebay, so it could have come from anywhere, but it sounds like you aren't far away.

Just going back thru CV Swap again for a 65 and a 57 f100. What did you do for tires and wheels, back spacing etc... ? BTW, We're in Canyon Lake TX Thanks for the great videos and info

In San Antonio…

I had tried my original configuration, and was getting tired of dealing with returning parts and fighting with it. Ideally I would have just started with a 3/4" 36 spline to 3/4 DD, U-joint. Now you guys know a possible solution if you are trying to do this yourself though

I'm not sure what the difference is in the frame rail width on a chevy.

Its just from a crown-vic, I don't think the police interceptor has a different cross member, I think they just added an extra cooler added to the police interceptor

@@330_garage3 thks

You have to knock that rag joint off. The rag joint is pressed onto the 36 spline shaft. I had to use the air hammer to remove mine.

@@330_garage3 That good to know. Great work on the truck so far.

Thanks for the knowledgeable comment! I struggled with the brake booster and the bracket. I originally bought a "complete bolt on kit" that was completely wrong, so I had to return it. There are so many manufactures that seem to make "direct factory replacements" that don't fit at all. Your comment it 100% correct though, and I wish I had found a OEM type replacement. The bracket that I bought from PirateJack did come with the intermediate lever, that I ended up removing to make this setup work.. sighhh

yep, still needed to finish the rear brake lines at the time of this video.

No I haven't heard of it, I'll check it out

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