Saw the video, and wondered why he just didn't get longer M4 counter sunk screws, but I guess all hardware stores don't carry those screw drawers and individual taps & dies. I agree with Harold that FA should have put in longer screws and shafts as that's an easy modification to make in the manufacturing process as well as insuring form, fit and function.
Johnny, hey dude, this is what people love about your channel, YOU ARE NOT SELLING US THE PRESS!!,, what you are doing is showing the strong points and the weaknesses of what you get when you buy the equipment at hand. Also, Harold is a relatively small channel (much like my own) and you give the credit where the credit is due. we are all at different levels at our experiences, we all have something to add to the community when we gather at the old potbelly stove, sip our coffee, and chat about what is new, what went wrong, what we did that fixed it, and how something is worth, or not worth the money. You may not know it, however, your channel is a household name out here. keep doing what you are doing. -Dave
Really nice of you to bring out the old boys.. I’m sure they appreciated they got to show what they can do. Any of these would bring home the venison .. and your right everyone should get an old rifle! M28-30 ”pystykorva” or a M/39 ”ukko-pekka” Finnish ”Mosin”..🤩
Johnny, first hope you are doing well. I started reloading in 1982, old guy, and still at it. I enjoy "all" of your videos and 90% of the time am still learning from you. What I learned from this video is that I would never buy this press, your patience is far beyond mine. Anxiously awaiting your return!
Johnny, when you use a peep sight, such as the one on the M1, you're having inconsistencies because you're overthinking the sight. What makes peep sights great, is that they naturally center to the brightest point in the aperture. If you look through the peep, you'll see the aperture itself, a blurry/fuzzy ring inside that, and then a perfectly bright and clear hole. Your eye will naturally center your front sight post in that hole if you don't fight it. I've been shooting M1s in CMP and Highpower matches for 30 years. I've shot them on 1000 yard qualification courses...with iron sights. Trust your eye's process. Let in naturally settle and don't fight it. You'll start shooting more consistently, I promise.
Great tip Johnny Never thought of that. That is why I watch your channel. The stock shell holder is thick for some die sets. I had one set I put in the lath and took about .010 off the sizing die so I could bump it back enough to get the proper head space. The shell holder would take care of that. Not everybody has a lath. Also your load development has saved me countless hours of load development. Thanks for all your hard work. Your regular guy videos are what is needed. The Erick Cortina's and the rest of the Royalty would not give a regular Guy the time of day. I am glade I could give back something to your channel instead of taking all the time. Thanks Harold
I do not see any advantage of using this sloppy jalopy over a single stage press of Lee, Hornady or RCBS. This thing is sloppily made from a machinist perspective
Another milsurp fan here. I also have a CMP Garand, a dozen Mausers in 6.5x55, 7x57, 8x57, plus several SKS's, Mosins, British Enfields, etc. Sometimes I believe I have more fun with them than my modern AR's & bolt guns. Great video. 👍
I’m so glad your back making videos, I’ve enjoyed them for years now. I started loading back in 1982 and used the RCBS Rock Chucker. When Hornady came out with the Iron Press I got one and it made quality ammunition just like the RCBS always did. However the more I saw the Forster Co-ax press being used the more I wanted one so I bit the bullet and bought one. You should really try the Co-ax Johnny, you’d love it. It’s the best press I’ve ever used. Thank you for all your work, hand loading is an adventure and no matter how long we do it there is always more to learn. Be Safe, God Bless You and Stay Free
Settings I use on mine for various cartridges: 223, 224 Valkyrie, 222 rem- 223 setting. 308, 7.62x39, 6 arc, 9mm, 357 SIG, 40s&w- 308 setting. So far my results have been very good. Pistol bullet seating is a little awkward since you have to work around the handle, and guide the case all the way up. Also use blue Loctite on a few of the screws to keep them from working loose, especially the detent screw for the die block detent.
Sorry Johnny, but you’d give an old DI the hibbeejebees with the way you were trying to load that clip. Use the knife edge of your right hand to hold the charging handle back while pressing the loaded clip in with your right hand thumb. It will save you the pain and embarrassment of the M1 🤙🏼, and you can push the charging handle forward like a forward assist if the first cartridge doesn’t strip easy with the palm of the same hand.
I was done with my M press until I watched your videos..great stuff, maybe I’ll dig the M press out of the trash. Thanks for your attention to all the smallest details in this rabbit hole called reloading.
I'm sure that for your run-of-the-mill reloader, this would be perfectly fine. The quirks you keep finding are enough to make people think twice - I hope FA is taking notes!
Still loving the content keep it coming. Having never even seen the press in person I can’t say anything about it definitely, but I think the theory behind the free floating die nut and shell holder combo is that nothing needs to be precision fit just as long as it’s consistent. So the fact that the shell plate carrier tilts in theory should not matter because the die will self align making every thing align perfectly. I’m not sold personally but that’s my theory.
Suggestion for the set screw. Get a longer set screw that will stick out the front enough that you can put a jam nut on it and tighten it against the block. That might do the trick. May need some brass or nylon tipped guys to not damage the die threads, but it may work. You might also consider drilling and tapping another set screw hole on another side of the block to increase the contact and equalize the pressure.
Thanks for a honest presentation of this press, other channels just try to sell anything they show. I personally am not in the market for a new press, but a few friends of mine are getting interested in reloading and always ask me my opinion about certain presses. Due to your honest evaluation of this press I would not suggest it to anyone, doesn't seem to be a quality piece for the money. Their is better presses for the money. Thanks again for your great videos.
Thanks for sharing, I am glad that I bought the forester press a was not sure which one that I should buy I did like the light in the Frankfort but luckily I got the forester specially when I see how much work you seem to have with it
Have to say this video shows how truly things are at the reloading bench.. from setting up the dies to shooting bench issues.. it always doesn't go smooth.. I like that rifle with the bolt that pulls straight back.. have to look into one. Thanks Johnny !!
For those who have not seen the Forester Coax press, it does not use a block like that. It has. Machined slot that fits a regular lock ring. On the block that is there they make steel set screw with nylon tips. Getting one a few sizes larger than the one in the block, thread to match no screw. The larger nylon tip will grip the die better.
So many variables with reloading an accurate cartridge, don't think a sloppy press is needed to confuse things further. Sorry FA. Thanks JRB another very entertaining video.
These videos on the F.A. press have just cemented my love for my RCBS rock chucker supreme 😂 Frustration after frustration with this press definitely won’t make me buy one
I can appreciate your reviews on other presses. Although you got me sold on a turret press years ago, watching all those videos with your Redding press. I went and got a Lyman All American and even bought an extra turret. I use my old single stage for decapping and full-length resizing, and the turrets for everything else.
@@clinkerclint Yes, it's a nice setup. They had production problems at first. They would be in stock then backordered. During that time I found a turret on Amazon for $35 bucks, didn't even have the press yet. The T7 has more holes drilled in the side for the handle to turn it. The Lyman only has two. If you look at JRB's Etsy video a while back. They have all kinds of accessories for reloading, one of them was a handle you could position anywhere on the turret.
Nice shooting. Glad to see the press shell holder worked with everything you threw at it. I will say that FA Universal bullet seating die looked figity as heck.
I think the seating die will be great once I get it figured out. Those compressed x39 loads didn't have any marks on the bullets! That's a good sign. If the seating stems are compatible with a lot of bullets it's going to be a nice die.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench I really like the FA Universal seating die. Used it to load 200ea .338 lapua rounds, dropping the bullet into the window, and got very consistent CBTO measurements.
I just have to chime in here one more time. FA will tell you to blue loctite the screws on your die blocks to keep them tight. They even sent me a free set of them to try it with. If you stack two lock rings to get the right fit it is easier than screwing with the die blocks. The top ring is the one that matters, so I use a lockable type ring so I can change adjustment and the bottom ring only holds your die up in relative place and I use Lee rings with the o ring up, for those since no locking is necessary. You can actually use one ring, but it has to lift the die way up to start working. Spend some time acclimating yourself to using the press this way and you won't go back. Good luck my friend!
In general, Frankford makes quality stuff for reasonable prices, BUT after watching the movement in that die holder and shell holder setup I am not impressed. I think I'd rather use a single stage Lee press instead.
Great video and testing Johnny . Got love the old surplus rifles. The musin in 7.62x54r. Definitely shot ur best group of the day was last 5 shot where almust stacked on top to 5th shot. Definitely be cool see deer hunt with musin or the m1 .
One trick I use on rimmed cases that are hard to get in and out of the shell holder is to partially unscrew the dingus as you call it. When it sits higher it spreads the shell holder jaws further leaving more space fir the rim to get in and out.
Die block solution: Teflon tape around your dies. This makes it less easy to thread in and the little brass allen keys don't get all mangled up on the steel die threads. This solution works for me. Just get them set, tighten them down, then don't touch them
Yeah...once I get it figured out I think it's going to be nice. Those compressed x39 loads didn't have any marks on the bullets, so the stems were a nice fit for this 150gr.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench I do my .223 target loads with it and they are really good, I shot them today 69gr nosler CC are hammers @300. The forester seating die I use for my 6br is great also. We do a month long tournament here and I shot it today with my 6br and in 24 shots they’re was a SD of 2. Pretty dang good
I have an M-Press and am in the process of drilling and tapping the die blocks for 1/4-20 x 1/2 brass thumbscrews. They're much larger than the itty bitty screws that are in them now. It should give me enough purchase to keep things tight and not worry about stripping out the threads, at least I hope not.
Hopefully that press wasn't expensive.. It seems to be of VERY QUESTIONABLE QUALITY !!!!!! Actually is looks to be a real POS.. Sorry for all the edits, but I checked Amazon and they have this for $180 but from all the issues I've seen you work through I wouldn't even pay $80. I thought LEE presses were pieces of crap... OMG !!
@JRB put small piece of rubber into the die holder screw hole before putting the screw in. This makes it so that it grips the die better, by forming into the threads of the die. Also keeps the screw from ever contacting the die, meaning you can replace the brass die holder screw with nice steel or even stainless grub screws. This will save you all kinds of headaches trying to get nice positive locking on the die.
I have a 1951 Russian SKS that I also hand load for. I have shot it with bayonet on and off and with the cleaning rod in the gun and out. What I have come to find is I get the most consistency and accuracy with the bayonet extended and locked. My thought was it was influencing vibrations into the barrel from it making contact from the stock. Hope this helps
The fix for the set screw is to put a small bit of plastic under it. It will protect the threads of your die and will hold it tight with less force on the screw. You can also get set screws with nylon tips from industrial fastener supply stores.
Johnny, these last couple videos are a great advertising for something like a rockchucker. That or something similar will be my next purchase to add to my RCBS turret press. Even my turret press has a lot less play in it than this contraption and for the most part I like AF stuff. I have their priming and depriving tool as well as their wet tumbler and a couple of other things. But they missed the boat with this setup. This thing shows that trying to reinvent the wheel is not always a good thing and that sometimes it is just fine to stick with the old faithful stuff of way back when moby dick was a minnow.
Drill out the small set screw, tap it 1/4 by 28 and use a 12 point bolt in new threads. It will tighten up super and by grinding a point on the 12 point grade 8 bolt you can tighten against die threads without damaging the die threads. Simple fix and works quite well.
I just started loading 7.62x39 for a Ruger American Ranch. Such a fun rifle. It shoots good. But I am not getting the results I want yet. Can’t wait until I can find some more projectiles of different kinds to try out. Would to try love some Nosler Varmagaddon.
Do you know what the bore is on the Ruger? Is it a .308 or something else? A low power variable and chambered in 7.62x39 would make a solid short range deer gun for private land. Where I live guns+public land=no thanks.
@@bmstylee it is .311. Many people shoot .308 out of these with good results though. I may try it in the future. Right now I’m only loading .310 Hornady SST.
The Nosler varmagaddon are great bullets. I've tested them in my ar using Accurate 1680 with good results. Also the ballistic tips in 123g did well. If your looking for good velocity try cfeblk.
@@Ocdoutdoors that’s what I am using with 123 SST right now. Velocity is 2450 but accuracy is not great. Do you know if this bullets likes jump or jam overall?
Can you do a video on concentricity between different presses, especially including the T-7? I realize your testing hasn’t shown much correlation between concentricity and accuracy, but it would be interesting… you know, for science.
A simple single stage press like the Lee Classic Cast would do the trick. I use it for all of my rifles and haven't seen anything better just more expensive.
very good video johnny . i was thinking on getting this press but something told me not to . glad i didn't get it . have you played with the 6mm arc lately ? i can't make up my mind on it . what would be best 6.5 grendel or 6mm arc ? i can only afford one of them . lol
I have the FA seating die. If you drop the bullet in from the top, it does a great job of aligning the bullet with the case mouth. I really like it. I start the die with maximum adjustment range btw. I haven’t run out of adjustment yet. Wouldn’t buy the Faux-Ax.
I gave the FA seating die a try and my groups went to poo, which sucks cause I liked dropping the bullet in the top, I may revisit it I could be retarb
I switched from an old Herter's to the M-press. I have been able to load very consistent and accurate ammo with it. The floating die block seems to self center and I don't even worry about run out. I swap the loading blocks set screw out with a steel one from the local hardware store. Yeah it's harder on the die but once they're set I leave it. A couple thousand rounds later I'm plenty happy with it. Also wish the die blocks would pinch tight like Hornady lock rings.
I think some folks here in the comments are being a little too harsh. I'm nitpicking a lot of things in the videos, but I feel like the press is loading good ammo. I also love the ergonomics. It might not be something I recommend to people, but it's still a nice press that is going to get the job done.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench I did the same thin as Ding with the set screws. Also, I put some loctite on the set screw that holds the block in. Adjusted it to where I can barely get the block out and in again and have had no trouble with it remaining stable. The ammo I get seems accurate enough given my shooting skills. I can eek out .75 groups on any rifle I have loaded for so far. Still, I do like the look of the T-7! :-)
Love your videos, thank you. Being new to reloading i find em Very helpful . I've just ordered a labradar, what is the program you are using? Is it associated with the unit? Thanks
On those brass set screws , they don’t work. I’ve bought dies that have them too. Every time you tighten them the threads on the die shave the end of the set screw when you turn it so it’s impossible to tighten it and you strip the Allen head trying. I replace them with steel set screws with a piece of #5 lead shot under the set screw. The lead forms in to threads for the die and works as a plunger to friction lock the die with out damaging the threads or the set screw.
A tried and trued solution (ask me how I know) is to remove the setscrew and replace it with a socket head cap screw. This allows you to use a larger hex wrench which will never strip. Problem solved!
Great video Johnny I just wanted to say yes here in Michigan the asian lady beetles are bad to !!!!! It was strange yesterday 11/7/21 they just showed up. It was warm for the first time in weeks I think that might have something to do with it. At any rate very interesting video about the Frankford arsenal press. In my opinion this press seems to be more irritating than it is worth buying.
Yup, yesterday and today they were swarming like crazy. Very warm. I hope it's over because there are HUNDREDS in my house. I'm going to wait for the to finish before I go around with a shop vac. lol
Try this load, at least it can be sub half MOA in my K31, Nosler 168gr RDF / PPU brass / 42.1gr IMR 8208XBR / Federal large rifle match primer / COL：3.00 /
For the price, which may be decent for this type of press there sure are a lot of issues with manufacturing. Unless someone sells it to me for a lot cheaper price, there are better options to spend your money on. I just use a Rock Chucker and Rock Chucker Jr. side by side. Also I would think the more spring pressure on the case head would be good even if it has a gap on the sides. May not catch as much of the rim but the tightest contact the better I would think. Love your videos, can't wait for the K31 to hit the range. I have a contact overseas that has front sights for the K31 . I had to go to the next taller sight, mine was about 6" high at 100 yards. I can also get firing pins and springs, Barrel shims and diopter sights. Legit diopter sights. Tons of other stuff also. Just contact me here and we can e-mail if you want.
get a steel set screw and put a piece of lead shot in the hole under the screw. Tighten the screw on the die and the shot and if the shot is large enough it will stay in the block. Sometimes I just use a piece of solder. May have to rap the block on your bench to remove the die after you loosen the set screw.
Looking at the type of screw in the plate that you replaced it appears that the screw is a high tensile steel type screw that means that it will withstand quite a bit of sheer and tortional loads. If you are you using zinc in your replacement screws if so you might end up with a mess on your hands.
Just buy the forster press, had it for 10 years and only have one problem which was a stuck piece of brass, I have loaded thousands of cartages with no issues.
For the brass set screw, have you tried 1 - 2 pieces of #7 1/2 shot between the brass and the die? I found a long time ago that it worked very well on RCBS lock rings, before I went to split rings. And you taught me something about the LEE trimmers, I was going way too fast with the drill. The Coax (FA) does seem to have more slop than it probably needs, by tightening up those tolerances would probably put it in the price range of the Forster. Great video as always, because you didn't blow you face off or put a bolt through your forehead!
If I go too fast with the Lee cutter, sometimes it won't actually cut. It just sits there spinning and I've had it "roll over" the case mouth because I was pressing so hard! No cutting...only smooshing. So I've been starting slow lately and making sure I'm seeing brass shavings before it speed things up.
How do I reload 6.5 Swedish? Also, I find that steel projectiles for 7.62x39 and 7.62x54r are basically required for decent accuracy unless you have an ultra pristine, non-wartime rifle.
I was considering the M Press as the FA gear is great but it’s just not something I want to deal with. Sloppy design or bad copy. I’ll get something solid. thanks Johnny
you're over thinking things, I've had great results with this press,but the first thing I did was get metric screws & cut leather to go in the hole,&threw the brass screws away .never had any problems with the shell holder. ameture shit?,,
While this press is rough around the edges. I feel like most people in the comments don't understand that co-ax presses have slop in them to keep runout low on the cartridge. Heaven forbid they look at the slop of the Forster coax and it's price, compared to a rock chucker. They'd think they'd have the most amazing press ever.
Let me start by saying I love your videos so please keep up the good work. I have a question though why did you or anyone else for that matter purchase a reloading press not made in the USA when almost all the others are?
leave the die in the die block remove the brass set screw and drop into the hole a #7-8 or 9 piece of shot then replace the set screw. you might need to put more than 1 piece of shot in the set screw hole.
This press seems like a solution looking for a problem. I don't see any reason for most of it's 'features' personally. But then, I'm old school. The Rock Chucker seems to do everything just fine, I don't see a reason to re-invent the wheel here with single stage presses.
I see you replaced the screws before they pull out or have already pulled out, worst press ever. I wanted it to work so bad but it was just a hope and a dream, Lyman 8 turret press for the win
You have to believe they made this press to accel at something better than an O-press, but after seeing both your videos about it so far, I'm just not M-pressed with the M-Press.
