Nice video. Remember that very few add-ons by themselves will make you number one on the track but our FAY'S2 Suspension Watts Link is a great add-on to help tune your suspension for different track conditions and driving style and remember that it can easily be adjusted (one bolt) at the track for more or less rear steer. Thanks for your time 3rd Gen Guy.
I came across your video here on doing some research on something unrelated on a project that I'm doing. Your video was very informative on the install for someone looking into getting a watts link. A while back when I was getting suspension mods for my 4th gen Camaro. I went with the BMR everything including the watts link. Although mine's going to go on a Ford 9" rear end and welded on. With going everything BMR I got a smoking deal on the price. And I got a better price through somebody else then BMR. Can't wait for my project to be moved further along so I can install this on my car and drive it and see how well it handles
Thanks for the great video! I was wondering why you decided on the Fays2 vs UMI watts link? was it the cost or is there something you didn't like about the UMI?
So, Fays2 has been making watts links a lot longer than UMI has. the Fays2 is also more "battle proven" and it's cheaper. UMI link also weights more. that and I don't really like UMI stuff personally. BUTTTTT it's not my decision on how you modify your car.
Our 3rdgen SRA options: -Detroit Speed quadralink. -Heidt's IRS -Watts Link -Adj. PHB setup Between your your welding/ fabrication skill, and actual motorsports experience,what are your thoughts on DSE's or Heidts offerings?
DSE does what they know best. and they do 4 links very well. -the -Heidts IRS is probably garbage. I've talked to owners that have installed it, and I don't think Heidts got the geometry right. Lowered panhard bar is the cheapest by a mile as well.
hard to say without driving a DSE 4 link car. Idk if you can install a watts link with their 4 link either. watts links only work with 4 or 3 link setups that have parallel control arms.
FYI, i come from a fox/sn95 mustang platform, where serious road racers swap out their 4-link for a phb/ta or a watts/ta. From the Ford camp, it’s understood that a 4-link is severely limited, unless you’re looking for a drag race setup. All suspension upgrades are mere band-aids, and bind is always the elephant in the room. Griggs Racing and Maximum Motorsports go into great detail as to why the 3-link is better than the 4-link. I’ve reached out to DSE to ask them why they go the opposite way with the thirdgens, and they never got back to me. I can only assume it’s a compromise between handling and power gained via exhaust clearance.
it can be run either way depending on your clearance. in my case, the taller diff cover was a bit too close to my liking: so I switched the bolt direction.
Does the distance for the axle clamp from the differential have to be the same? Mine, when made level came out 2 inches for the driver side and 2-1/4 for the passenger side. Yours appears the same, that the passenger axle clamp was out further from the diff. I know with UMI and BMR they state to have them out as far as possible, but all the research I've done on FAYS doesn't cover it. In my mind they should be the same distance if the arms are the exact same length.
The lengths need to be about the same. A longer arm travels a different arc. so if one arm is too long, it'll jam up the watts link. the fay2 instructions do mention that.
@@3rdGenGuy the arms are the same length (8 threads pivot side, 3 threads axle side) but the axle clamps are not the same distance from the diff. I'd be curious of your measurements.
it scarifies a tiny of of clearance at the lowest setting, but that's too low for street cars. even I don't run the lowest setting. lowest point is about 4-5in from the ground, so more clearance than my exhaust lol.
