Going for depth with the 20w fiber laser in tool steel. Here is the marking along with the settings used as well as the results measured by an indicator.
love you videos man, just got me 50w laser and these tutorials are coming in clutch. Any advice for making a small, detailed logo in hardened tool and/or stainless steel. I bought mine for putting my logo on my custom knives. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Thank you so much for your videos! They have helped me so much. We have a 50W laser. I am having a hard time engraving on an empty shell casing. I can deep engrave on brass following your video on different settings for different depths; however, I cannot get it to engrave (deeply) on a shell casing. It engraves, but can easily be sanded off. Any suggestions? I appreciate any advice you can give me.
Hi Jeffery, thank you for your videos, just purchased the 20w laser for jewellery marking. May I ask how you get rid of the rough finish when your going with more depth? Thanks
Hello Jeffery, what could be the best parameters for engraving plate chrome pieces? I have been trying to engrave a logo but just mark the first part of it and the rest is not visible.
Hello Jeff! Great video! I'm looking for a laser engraving machine to engrave anodized aluminum pet tags not bigger than 5cm x 5cm. Would you recommend any model?
Just bought a 30W laser, same type. You present great instructional videos. I need to measure letter/word engraving depth in anodized aluminum to .0005in. Question previously asked but not answered - What type of Depth Micrometer is that and where can I find it? I've searched up and down and don't see anything similar. Easier to ask than to spend hours searching. Thanks for passing on your experience.
Something like this will give you a magnetic base as well as a handful of tips to get in small spaces: www.ebay.com/itm/T0010-3-Pc-Inspection-Set-Mag-Base-w-FA-1-Dial-Indicator-22-pc-Tip-set/303464983279?hash=item46a7ec2aef:g:bDgAAOSw4wVed7CG
Select the line you want to thicken and use the offset function - it's located under the 'edit' menu. Now you'll have some area that can be hatched. Alternatively, you can use the wobble feature which is located in the 'advanced' menu in pen settings.
@@jefferyj Thanks Sir, I will try out your instructions. Another question, when doing vector or graphic on rotary. The split line keep leaving the vertical mark between the splits. I double check the diameter but still. No problem on text rotary, only image or vector file.
Great videos. I am looking to mark plated nickel that is 200-300u" (.0002-.0003") without penetrating to the layer underneath. In your opinion, could one of these Chinese fiber lasers achieve this? I am looking to mark what is essentially a plated cylinder about an inch long and 3/8" in diameter along the length with a part number. In your opinion, is there enough latitude in the focal depth to mark with characters .100-.125" high?
You should be able to mark without destroying the nickel - the mark may just be lighter. I did a bit of very light marking on carbide end mills that might be helpful to see - check out my other videos, it should be there. The diameter was significantly smaller than 3/8" if I recall correctly.
@@jefferyj Thank you for getting back to me. It is tough to be on the fence when $3.5k will either work for you or it won't! From what I have read, laser marking on plated nickel is done at lower power, higher frequency to anneal the plating rather than ablate it. Hmmmmmm.
I mostly do anodized aluminum so it's pretty loose...somewhere between .05 and .1 mm. Usually on the tighter side of that range as I almost always use a crosshatch. I don't remember what it was in this video, probably at most .05mm.
hey Jeffery, i'm planing to get this machine with a 110x110 marking area for knifemaking my logo is quite minimal line art, you think the blade will heat up alot when i do deep engraving? or is it worth spending the extra 1k for 30w? i worry about the tempering
I've never actually taken a temp reading, but the deeper you go and the more time the laser is working on your part, the hotter it will get. If you have minimal line art, I don't think it would be a big concern. It really depends what kind of depth you're going for and how much fill you have. I'd probably go at least 30w if I were buying again just so I had greater ability for depth if I needed it.
@@jefferyj Hey Jeff, do you think a 10w would be sufficient for light etching, say, for a ring? The light Q you did here is similar to the look I'd be aiming for.
Anyone know how to record the prefect circle? I use the circle tool but when I record it I don't have any prefect. I need urgent help, since I spent a lot of money on my machine and I still haven't been able to use it. :(
Something like this will give you a magnetic base as well as a handful of tips to get in small spaces: www.ebay.com/itm/T0010-3-Pc-Inspection-Set-Mag-Base-w-FA-1-Dial-Indicator-22-pc-Tip-set/303464983279?hash=item46a7ec2aef:g:bDgAAOSw4wVed7CG
I'm in a pet tagging business and I want to level up the quality of engraving. So I'm planning to buy a 30W fiber laser. I have no problem with a thick tags but some tags like anodized aluminum with a thick of 1.13mm, engraving front and back is not quite thick. Do you think the laser will go through it. THANKS!
So you're currently using an engraving tool of some kind on 1mm materials and it's causing a problem as you can't easily engrave both sides? The laser isn't very destructive in terms of engraving, so If you want to actually cut through a 1mm tag, it will take quite a while. If you just want to mark the surface of the tag, it shouldn't be a problem and will only take a few seconds per side. You can set the power and hatch settings to your liking to achieve whatever effect you desire.
It's just the hatch angle. If you specifically wanted to mark horizontally or vertically to minimize the chance of a pattern forming, that's possible as is auto rotation.
