Thank you so much for the advices you always put in your videos. It's the little things people don't focus on, it's the key to not just ride your machine but feel it, as connected as possible. Thank you Ben...
I suspected that the cam auto decompression cam unit is problematic. I remember my father who was a Harley rider, telling me exactly that. After a few thousand kilometers, my bike began stalling and ticking when hot. So I adjusted the valves and no change. After doing all the recommended mods on the bike to stop stalling, I found that simply dropping the RPM to 1000 was the only thing I could do that really stopped the stalling at idle. But it still stalls when on the road between gears. It seems the problem is around 1500 rpm. I thought that the Fuel X would help but did not eliminate the stalling. Of course not if it is a faulty decompressor making the engine suddenly lose compression and stall. Thanks for the vid, I kind of thought about changing out the cam for the TEC cam just to eliminate the decompressor. You have shown me that suspicions were warranted. Thanks again.
Thanks for the great info Ben. Before this comment I searched Himi Decompression failures because I thought I had seen a vid on this before except that it happened with very few km/mi on it. Could not find it anywhere. So I obviously need to stop sniffing so much glue/paint/radioactive sludge etc. Anywho for anyone with this problem it would be a great time to upgrade to a Tec cam. Cheers and good luck to all if you do a cam mod.
This happened on my himi too and I visited the service centre numerous times regarding the engine but the mechanics kept on saying it’s normal for the himi and the usual bs but then luckily at my nearby by Royal Enfield mechanic whom i was close friends with told me that it’s because of the cams and there is a tiny bump on the exhaust side which would go flat under higher rpms but the spring for it is pretty weak and can fail even before the bike has done 10,000km sometimes, he was a dirt racer and had a fully stripped down himi prepped for dirt racing so i believed his words and got the cam replaced which in short got rid off the annoying . The tec cams i had a lot of research done it and most reviews say it’s not drastically different, only on higher rpms would u notice the difference and those reviews were backed up my dyno runs too so your take on it might be 50% placebo effect and 30% because of the newer cams which will make the bike more responsive compared to the old one which was pretty beaten up and 20% because of the performance difference.
The TeC cam produces a torque and power curve PARALLEL to the stock factory curve and that is why most people can’t articulate what they are feeling . Wait for my review on the same . A video coming soon
Hopefully this comment will be/stay published. I appreciate your content and your dedication to accurate information. To that end, the information about this issue has errors which should be corrected. This auto-decompression device will fully extend to its non-engaged position through centrifical forces within the first few hundred RPM (the indicated engine RPM is double), or basically when the engine first fires. Since centrifugal forces extend and hold the decompressor in its disabled position, this already weak and now weaker spring would not be able to overcome this and pull it to its engaged position. If anything, the weak spring's failure to engage the decompressor would be causing increased compression pressures during start and putting additional load on the starter. Humbly, while it might somehow be adding some noise to the engine's cacophony of sounds, I am not sure the reasoning of how it would actually engage at operating speeds or how the weak spring would actually increase that.
I am aware of how centrifugal forces act on the decompressor. But when the spring gives up completely and as a result of which the lever moves / doesn’t move as it is supposed to and to add to it STICTION , all these factors can cause unexpected noises and also compression losses . This is a universal problem with “sticking “ auto decompression levers in cams .
@@ONTWOWHEELSBEN I have said this many times and will agree with his statement. I would have sold my bike a long time ago, but thanks to you I am still enjoying it.
No wonder why i get small pops and bangs when i let off the throttle and let the engine brake till 2k rpms when it's hot , because of the faulty cam the exhaust valve is open just a bit to hear those pops
Hi Ben, that is indeed a major issue! Thank you so much for sharing this. Can you show how to check this topic on the bike for a beginner without removing the camshaft? Greetings from Germany
Is this something covered under warranty? I've had mine 4 months (6500 miles) and it's clicking badly. Dealer is recommending a complete top end rebuild but doesn't want to cover the expense.
Brilliant find, trust me your mods have turned a junk to a jewel and please don't mind me saying that. Coming to the camshaft itself, it's a great find. Per your point, when the bike revs, it settles down, but when it idles or in the lower range this "clicketing" sound emanates. I'm surprised to hear from many gurus say that it's combustion clatter and nothing else, which always had my head scratching. Now, an engaged or partially decompressor with the engine can induce poor combustion, more heat, idle hunting and what not. Did you ever face these issues pre the TEC installation?
You are 100% correct about a partially engaged decompressor ( sticking ) leading to compression loss , poor combustion , power loss @ lower rpms and all sorts of noise . Very few GURUS know about this and understand it’s implications
The Himalayan was never junk to begin with , it is a fantastic engine and an even better chassis and one of the best “stock “ suspension in the market ( one should know the comparisons) . People ( self proclaimed BIKERS) make it junk over a period of time . True Bikers never disrespect their machines .
My 6 month old himmy has the same ticking noise from the start .Do you think its the camshaft? I thought it was valve clearance issue(SC didn't check valve clearance in first service) and hoping to check it out in the second service. Can the camshaft been defective from the factory?
Sir could you help me, I have BS6 Himalayan 2021. I don’t know what the issue is ? I watched many videos on RU-vid on fuel pump priming issues and swapped fuel pump relay and issue persist and I am unable to start my bike. What could be the issue?
best bike for now, got a new 2023 model and over the next few years will be building it for pure performance and maximum hammering off-road . I found the clutch is a weak point on Himalayan when riding hard , any after-market option to make it stronger?
Bs3, tec is not available for me. Just replaced with new re camshaft which made my bike very smooth. But i am hearing small ticking on the left side on idle. I adjusted valves also. Svc centre guys told me to ride for 100 km. Since i have warranty for 1 yr hope i can replace later if there are any issues
@@devanggaur9174 Hi! I fixed the issue. If you these tips, you'll be able to have a noiseless bike. 1/remove the side tank gards (that provide vibrations). 2/remose the head light support and install a new one with fork support 3/Replace the stock air filter for a DNA with the opened cover 4/Install the FuelX lite on the ECU You will have a bike with far more torque and an engine more soft. Approved since january 2024! ;-)
I thk...you talk like you are a part of a technical engineer who was involved in production ....any way , you didn't invent TEC cam either...now some one did in UK..which we fixed almost a year back....
It can, if you look at Hitchcock's motorcycles and view the parts diagram, you will see the 4 replaceable parts. The spring is available for less than one US dollar and the whole assembly less than 20 dollars.