Great video! My 1979 Datsun 210 had a York compressor. About 10 years ago I had it replaced with a new old stock York. I am getting the car back on the road and I am pretty sure that my York new old stock compressor will still be good.
the big bolt used to push the pulley off is a 5/8 coarse thread. And if you have one, you can use an impact driver to drive in the bolt (greasing the threads and face helps alot) while holding the pulley face with your hand and it should pop off. The displacements are 6, 9.3, and 10.3; and the crankshafts are beveled end, grooved end, and square end respectively.
Thank you for this comment, i tried a half inch bolt and thought my threads were stripped. 5/8 worked and it came right off. put new bearing in clutch and my 1972 ford f250 has ice cold ac again. THANK YOU
The block style compressors were used on class 8 trucks till at least 95. When i was still working on trucks id see several newer models come in that had them
I have the et210l York on my 2002 kenworth with a caterpillar engine. The pulley froze up on it and started melting the v belts and the a/c wasn't turned on at the time.Do you think the whole compressor needs replaced or just the clutch? Thanks
I have a 1984 Chevy 454 in my 84 motorhome but this type of piston compressor and I'm trying to figure out which side is the low pressure charging side for recharging?
I have a York ER210R in a 1975 Winnebago that I plan to convert to R134a. Do you know what the ER means and do you recommend converting this compressor?
E mean "Equipment (Heavy Duty Model)" and R means Rotolock fittings. Here's a manual. They are still manufactured under a different company. 240.se/litteratur/york.pdf R134a is going to need a different oil, so a change is necessary. Flushing the system in some way might be a good idea too. You may need to change the metering device as well for the best performance, but some degree of cooling is possible for sure. I don't have experience with automotive AC. I hope this was helpful!
I have the 209, where is the best place to find the gaskets and rebuild kits. im finding some online but having a hard time finding any locally or ones that will arrive quick enough for me to finish this repair.
How much are you getting these for from scrap yards? I got a 209 from ebay for ~$45 and plan to put it on my 94 s10 350 for onboard air but I'd like to get a 210 in better condition then what I have and a serpentine pulley. What models have the yorks (other then Volvo)?
i paid similar at Pick-N-Pull. I have a list I made somewhere. Best resource for my purposes, was Triumph cars. Late 70s to early 80s. I found several of those. They are good because they use flare fittings rather than O-ring fittings. I believe these Yorks were used from the late 50's to 1991. Many Volkswagons had them, but are hard to find. Seen them in Porsches, many Ford trucks in the late 70s and 80s, AMC Wagoneers and Cherokees. I recommend the Volvos for their easy availabilty, but the Triumphs for the flare fittings. Many semi trucks used them as well, or their current licensed name.
Why any American would buy anything made in China is beyond me. Especially when there are other choices. I realize this question is 5 years old, but others may be interested. So here goes: The Chinese York clones, as with all Chinese made compressors, are hit or miss. Some get tested and sorted when they get here due to the high reject rate. Many Chinese York clones are noisy out of the box. This is NOT normal! Knocking noise is caused by excessive clearance between the rod bog end bore and crank journal. On an old York, this is an indication that it has been chronically run low on oil (and usually refrigerant). The rods get oil starved, the aluminum galls, and gets wiped away increasing clearance. Sometimes the rod will seize onto the crank journal and tear itself in half. This causes a "thrown rod", where the rod sometimes knocks a hole in the side of the crankcase. More often than not though, they just get extremely noisy. They will fail eventually if operation is continued. The Chinese Yorks that knock out of the box do so because of poor manufacturing tolerances and no QC. This causes excessive clearance between the rod and crank journal, and it knocks just like an oil starved York. They may run for several years, but they will wear out sooner because an excessive clearance doesn't retain oil very well, and as with any journal bearing they rely on a proper film of oil between the surfaces for hydrodynamic operation. Less common are rods that are too tight. Or, pistons that are too tight in their bores. Either situation is bad, and will cause early compressor failure. Typically, these faults cause failure through seizure. Another common problem with Chinese York clones are shaft seals that have excessive leakage. Yorks use carbon face seals, as did all compressors before the 1980s. They work well and are long lived, provided they are manufactured correctly and to the required very high tolerances. As a rule, a large amount of leakage is caused my disuse. Carbon seals require a very fine film of oil between the lapped carbon rotating element and the lapped cast iron face plate. If the compressor is left idle for weeks or, more commonly, months, the internal pressure in the crankcase will slowly extrude the oil from between the two elements. Once the oil is gone, leakage increases dramatically. Typically, operating the compressor restores the oil film. However, after enough dry start cycles the carbon can accumulate enough wear to the point that it will no longer seal as tightly as it should. At that point, it has to be replaced. As mentioned, the carbon and cast iron mating parts must be lapped to a very high degree of flatness. So high that it is measured optically in units called "helium light bands". New seals then further lap themselves in to one another during the first several hours of operation, at which point leakage drops to an almost imperceptible amount. Only the small amount of refrigerant dissolved in the oil is what actually "leaks", and this is the case for all types of shaft seals: carbon, single lip, or double lip. Well, the Chinese seals are either not lapped sufficiently flat to begin with, or the lapped faces are touched with bare fingers or otherwise contaminated during assembly. They dont usually leak refrigerant gas, unless they are allowed to sit and dry out as mentioned above. What they do is leak a lot of refrigerant-laden oil. You end up with an oily mess around the clutch area after a while. I've seen other QC issues as well. Even if you get a good one, you're not really saving much money because they just dont seem to live a long time. Old Yorks, as well as the later ones made when CCI and then T/CCI took over production, will literally last DECADES as long as they arent run low on oil and/or chronically run low on refrigerant. That is true for any AC compressor, not just the York style. The longest lived auto AC compressors are US made Yorks, the old Tecumseh HG series, the Chrysler V-2 and RV-2 (one had to be careful with these, as the valves were more susceptible to damage from slugging and overspeeding, but they generally didnt wear out if not run low on oil), and the older GM A6 compressors with cast iron piston rings (later ones used plastic rings). I've seen all of the above dating from the 60s that still pumped as good as new and were quiet despite many years and hours on them. Typically the only things that were ever replaced were shaft seals and sometimes body seals. The common denominator was that they were all built to very high standards and well maintained.
when taking clutch off, is it lefty loosy? or is it reverse threaded? replacing my clutch, put power to the coil and held a belt on the pulley but didn't get the bolt to budge. I would have givin er the beans but i was worried it was reverse threaded.
Question please: I have 1981 BMW 320i with a York compressor. Do you know if they used these 210's on the 320i? Looks the same! My issue is that now that I had the system refilled and all the leaks plugged, the compressor makes a nasty noise and kind of shakes a bit when it cycles! I was thinking of trying to replace the clutch first (or maybe just the bearings). My mechanic says the clutch doesn't have bearings and that the compressor is bad, but how a clutch cannot have bearings sounds silly to me. My clutch is like the Volvo one you have there with a double belt. Is it possible to get a clutch for these new? I've seen the compressors (they sell 'em without the clutch) but I thought it'd be best to try and replace the clutch first (and test the bearings) so I wouldn't have to refill the system again. What do you think? Sorry for the long comment....
jrfi orn The bearings are on the shaft(s), not the clutch. You can think of it as a seam, or a seamed disc pack, that integrates into one device under (mechanical/solenoid/pneumatic/etc) pressure for the purposes of transferring motion to the shaft which the one/~pack is mounted.
Gotta watch. Some of them are in rough shape. Try to find one with the AC system mostly intact. You can pick these up new for around $220. Pulleys and all are still available.
For $150 they are probably remans. All reman AC compressors are very hit or miss. Usually miss. Commonly with the Yorks is that they're very noisy. Sometimes they have bad valves as well, usually caused by slugging due to refrigerant and/or oil overcharge. Avoid the Chinese made clones. Many are noisy right out of the box, and even if they arent they dont seem to last very long. They also often leak at the shaft seals. Spend a bit more $ and get one made by T/CCI. If your vehicle is left hand suction you're in luck, as NOS ER210L and ET210L T/CCI made compressors are commonly found on Ebay for reasonable cost. If you buy what you think is a T/CCI made compressor and you are shipped a Chinese compressor, send it back. Trust me on that.
