First drive in the Z31 300ZX Turbo but can't get into BOOST 

Working on it right now as we speak. Lots of new parts to get the steering and brakes working better. Next up is timing belt, belts, hoses, thermostat, and a coolant flush.

It feels super cool to drive at night. I can't wait to open up the T-tops in the spring and cruise it!

@@WTFPerformanceShow this one is currently up for sale correct?

Yea I posted it for sale if someone wanted to pick it up. I'd love to hold on to it a bit longer but funding the Corvette project would also be awesome. I think I'll probably have it until spring though, not too many people in the market for a 37 year old sports car in the dead of winter 😂

@@WTFPerformanceShow very true, I'll be keeping my eye on it. Hopefully I can take it off your hands.

Yup you nailed it, replaced the leaky hose and I actually got a real first test drive. Enough to feel all the bad parts I found in this video LOL

I have heard the fuel sender gets dirty and can be brought back to life with a little cleaning. There is also a module under the dash to the right of the steering wheel that could be faulty. Check out xenonzcar.com he has some INSANELY useful info to keep these cars on the road and he has a write up about cleaning that fuel level sender.

@@WTFPerformanceShow I willl cheat this out ASAP thanks for replying i just got my Z over two months ago its in mint condition but has alot of little stuff to be worked on for some reason when i have the AC on the temp goes very high and i also think i have a vacuum leak by the dash which making the car hesitate which one time it shut off on me while driving

Yea, that vacuum leak is pretty common. Mine had multiple leaky blend door actuators. The repairs can be a little tricky, but I used Dorman replacement parts for a Jeep cherokee, and a little tinkering got them all fixed. There is a vacuum line for the hvac on the fire wall passenger side near the engine. You can try disconnecting that line and plugging it to see if the vacuum leak goes away. If your vacuum pump runs every few seconds, that's a pretty good indication of a leak somewhere.

@@WTFPerformanceShow Okay i will try doing that im not very hands on like you but i will try i want my car to be 100 percent i am not happy or sleeping good at night till its 100 percent lol

Wow thanks for the info, it's a super cool car and I believe with a lot of money and time this car could probably be fully restored. The drive train seems to be in good shape but being from IL the rust on the body is pretty bad. Under the tool kit and the spare tire compartments are GONE. The frame rails are also very rough too unfortunately. My thoughts on cars like this are the guys that truly want to restore one would have passed on this car. This is a car I will do some good old fashioned shade tree mechanic repairs to make it solid again. Then it can be a driving antique you aren't worried about driving in the rain, getting door dings, or throwing it into a turn sideways either LOL

I am also working on the timing belt right now and I can see why swapping that turbo would be ROUGH! I haven't broken any bolts yet though. As strangely engineered as this engine is, it's still pretty easy to work on compared to a LOT of other cars.

@@WTFPerformanceShow I was gonna say my under toolkit and spare tire well was just starting to rust through, but I was able to weld some plates in and paint with some thick rubberized paint. Granted I am going the full resto route. Rest of the rust like the frame I would just wire wheel off and get some rust converter paint and undercoating spray cans, would do the trick and stop it from completely rotting away so you can enjoy the car. Eastwood makes an internal frame rust spray can with a little hose you stick into the frame and spray around to stop that from rusting through, a little pricey for a single can but its well worth it imo, and you only need one usually. Also check the underside of your brake booster as I found that can start leaking or get water on it and rust on the underside, then start dripping rusty water into the frame since they decided to make a drain right under it, which is really bad. Even though mine is a Texas car, they still will start rusting when not properly cared for. And yeah mine hasnt had too many stuck or seized bolts. Maybe a couple broken studs on the exhaust headers (super common when you go that far) Only really bad one was the skirted nuts holding the motor mounts to the frame, they are very soft, strip very easily, and cant be split off because of the skirt. If you ever go that far and want to replace a motor mount or pull the engine up/out, get some good extractor sockets and get those nuts off first time or else ur gonna be drilling through the mounts, which is a really bad time lol. Replace with some normal nuts and washers. I respect the not afraid to drive it mentality and I'm not gonna be afraid to drive mine either, if its a car its meant to be driven. But I just wouldnt drive it during winter when they salt at all. My father had one when he lived in IL, and it rusted out completely in 5 years from new when he dailied it through any weather. The salt will just destroy them, and its not worth the risk unless you plan on washing everything out after every drive getting it salty. Good luck with your project though, and at least you have gotten to drive yours lmao

I know! My corvette that I have gone the "full restoration" route on has so much time and money into it.... and I have never driven it. I needed a "driving" project like the Z to boost my morale!

What the hell are og seats?