This video shows how to fix door and fender gaps that cannot be adjusted to a correct gap by any other means by adding filler metal to the door or fender for better looking panel fitment.
Glad to see you Curt. Nice job on the door edge and gap. Obvious early trains were steam powered. The hole on the side is exhaust part of two-stroke engine found in todays boat. Even big container ships of 6 to 8 cylinders. They had no exhaust valve and no intake like a motorcycle with higher RPM than a diesel.
Hey Dean, the hole in the piston is actually for the wrist pin there is one opposite the other side that you can’t see from the video. And there is a very large threading through the bottom for a massive set screw to hold it into place. Was told it was from a 24 cylinder naval diesel but cannot match the bore to any known one to confirm it. But from the bore size matching it to known engines it would be for a 500-600ft vessel.
Great video. Would you ever consider filling the cab door jamb rather than the door? I ran into same problem and I filled the cab with high strength filler but will probably re work it because I hate filler for seams. Wish I did your way but I am dreading doing it all over again. Nice work
Thank you. If it was a small amount of filler to even things out I would be ok with it but this had too large of a gap and I didn’t have much of a choice because the door had such an uneven edge this was the only way to clean things up on mine.
Thx a bunch curt. I have a door in fitting up now and the front top corner is hitting and big gap at the back. How did u set up the door to smack the window frame to shift it? 4x4 along the front angle and tack a smack? Did u do it while mounted? If not how did u brace it so you didn’t dent something else?
After I edited that video I realized I lost the footage of exactly what you’re asking unfortunately. How I did mine was I fully mounted the door on the cab and with the door open about 8 inches I placed a soft 4x4 about a foot long against the back of the door frame and hit it with a 5 lb sledgehammer. Progressively hitting it harder till it moved into the position I wanted. I will note I place the block behind the window frame lip on the wide flat portion of the frame as to not bend or crease the lip. You should be able to do the same by putting the pressure against the top of the forward part of the door frame. I slowly worked up on how much force I used to make sure I wasn’t doing any more damage to the door. While I’m sure there are better ways to align a window frame to a cab that are less evasive, this is how I decided to do mine with the least amount of work with what I had on hand.
The door I used was purchased from AMD but if I remember correctly it was marked Tri-plus. Personally all metal I got from them prior to 2020 was awesome, but since then it seems to be hit and miss. Some parts fit really well and some need a lot of work. It’s a supply issue for sure.
Thanks for the info. I'm not to far from the Dynacorn warehouse so I am going to pick some 69-71 blazer doors. I will let you know how they fit. @@curtrobinsongarage5452
