When possible, remove teak items before de-varnishing. Moving that door to the cabin roof or a workbench can cut the hours in half. I think your boat is coming along well. I especially like your engine room remodel.
DO NOT VARNISH - Use "Danish Teak Sealer" from TotalBoat for all the exterior trim. For the door first use penetrating epoxy (several coats) then use ToralBoat Halcyon Water Based Marine Varnish (4+ coats). The Teak Sealer adds the yellow honey color back to the teakwood. THE BEST PART is that this never peals and never needs sanding. All you need do is apply a refresh coat spring summer and fall.
Randall, I have to agree that honey color sealant looks absolutely yummy. On all of our family's sailboats, we had 1/2 varnished, 1/2 teak oil on ours and no teak decks. Way too hot in FL. The painting of the bilge is making her look like/feel a new happy boat again. She is Loved💌 Happy Sailing ⛵.
Your boat was one of my favorites on the channel when it was first shown. The classic looks and the layout is amazing and the teak really makes it look great.. the people who aren't interested in varnished teak are the ones who are interested in painting everything rather than having chrome or shiny things that require attention from time to time.. with that being said I'm one of those ocd people who would have pulled your aluminum hatches off and polished them to look like stainless steel and covered them with some 4k clearcoat.. I enjoy keeping the things i own nice and clean
Perfect timing! Absolutely it’s worth varnishing the toe rail. I’ll be Heading up to my boat this week to strip the varnish on my toe rail. Going old school, 8-10 coats of Epifanes. Cheers.
Hey Randay, props again to you amigo, you’re content is the perfect blend of information at an absorbent pace, with some kick ass musical accompaniment and great cinematography. Christian Williams would be like a proud father! Attaboy!
@@YachtHunters no problem 😉, I swear Christians commentary is his version of scatting to his jazz backing tracks, I don’t know what he is up to recently but an interview or even a day sail between him and you would be very cool 😎.
Teak on a boat is like jewelry on a woman whether it be old or new when it shines and sparkles in the sun men come to see . And Ran - day thanks for not stripping all the stains from the teak .It's not how old one is it's how well she carries it .And knowing you when you are done it won't be a re anything it will be a transformation . Mat your sails always be full and your bilge be dry .TA TA ,toodaloo and see you on your next post . P.S. smile it's another good day. 😊🙃😄
Wow Can’t believe how much you get done! My theory for ROBIN is to split the difference w/the teak. Unprotected, labor-intensive teak will get stripped and let weather (massive toe-rail; eyebrow rails, deck handholds). All the cockpit teak will get stripped & varnished. The partial protection from dodger & bimini should drastically cut my varnish workload, while giving enough well-finished teak to enjoy. Thankfully I did find the stripping and varnish (as a verb) satisfying & even meditative. Replacing the stantion bolt w/hefty eye bolt was fricken brilliant! I never woulda thought of that; but it’s in my toolbox now 👍 Cheers ⛵️😎
Keep up the great work, Randall! Varnish will blister somewhere. Allow me to suggest: Hesitate on varnishing toe rail. Keep it well oiled/sealed, cleaned regularly. Focus varnish on door and flat square surface pieces. In places where water can get under wood, it will. And this causes blisters. The varnish can block water on top, but loses when it’s below. I see cleats screwed into your toe rail and too many other ways in. Winch blocks concern me too. I know this isn’t the popular viewpoint. Varnish looks GREAT for sure.
Yes! It's worth it. Life has no guarantees but that isn't going to keep me from offering some unsolicited advice (for a change lol): SAND. With expensive paper, minimize mechanical involvement, never skip grits. For fuzz removal, a quick plastic sealer coat will allow you to knock off the chaff. Hand sanding is the bomb. SEAL. Smith's CPES. There is no substitute, except for System 3 S1. Sand after the smell goes away. Fill checks etc with 405. STAIN. Brown Mahoghany Filler Stain like 7560. Most varnishers skip this step, I sometimes do. Epoxy sealers can make very hard woods less stainable. Multiple sessions, until everything is the same color. Build with Epifanes. Finish coat(s) with Cetol (clear) Gloss. Using this will add longevity like nothing else. I don't build with it bc it's relatively slow to cure. Good thing I'm not opiniated. This is just what I know works well, it is certainly not the only way. Awlgrip? Sure, but there's a Lot of peripheral stuff involved, can get complicated if you're not a professional. I am not a professional either when it comes to varnishing. Thank You Randy All the Best Marty PS Thixo you pretty much read my mind. I actually use 404 bc I want to color it myself, what i described , the 405 is what a professional I am speaking for uses, because it's already colored, saves time. Am I a boatbuilder? No. Boatbuilders "git 'er done". If you want proof then consider that I mostly use 209 with my 404. Yes, it takes longer to dry but I never sand until my epoxy is cured, and that means the third day, whether we are using 205, 206 or 209. Sanding sooner seems a tremendous waste of sandpaper. Anyway, what I'm getting at is that thixo would be great for a quick fix on the web floor fwd the rudder post. The epoxy treatment on the door made all the difference, nice!
Randy, I made a middle of the road decision. I have varnished everything the deck except the toerail. In my experience the toerail takes the most time and effort to refinish and the most effort to keep in shape during the season. For the toerail I decided to use Semco teak sealer. It looks great and it’s so much less work. I recommend it.
@@YachtHunters thank you. I absolutely love your 43. If I wasn't too old I would be looking for one. My Dad had a couple of schooners when I was a youngster. A 55 and a 65 footer.
You could "tent" parts of the boat as you go, keeping the tree erm off of it. In my spare time, I like to work with wood and enjoy the sanding as well. That's when the wood comes alive, it gives you that idea of what your going to look at as long as you have it...
@@YachtHunters You may want to consider using Total Boat "Lust" varnish from Jamestown Distributors. You can apply additional coats an hour apart. Start at one end of the boat and finish the first coat at the other end of the boat, In the time it takes you to do that (over an hour), you can probably go back and apply a second coat and continue repeating as time permits. I was able to do 5 coats of varnish on my brightwork in one day. Came back the second day and applied the remaining 4 coats. The finish came out amazing. Lust made short work of the varnishing job.
Love the teak restoration job, been there too. Hey, you can use oxalic acid mixed with water to help remove the water stains in the teak. I have been doing that for years and works great. It may take 2-3 applications for the old deep staining, and let it fully dry and a light sanding between applications. Keep up the good work, and remember to ride your bike too!
If you live close to the boat I'd say definitely worth the varnish. If you don't, and it takes time away from sailing I'd say leave it bare. Nice job btw!
I’m about 30 min away at the moment… once it’s splashed I should be about 15-20 min from door to cockpit… I’m going with a varnish plan for this year and we’ll see how it holds up. Thanks
Ran-day, don’t know how current this videos are but Total Boat has a new water based varnish. Well it not a pretty as regular varnish it is very easy to put on with no sanding in between coats. I am just bad at varnish work and that stuff works great for me. I recommend it.
Good stuff, I have three weeks till I splash my boat. Cleaned my unvarnished teak, was wondering what to do with it, some good tips here. Getting her ready for the water has been a lot of work but I'm loving every minute of it, so I get your Zen comment.
Nigel Calder I don't know if he still does it but he helped another channel do a total overhaul of the electrical systems. It was pretty impressive and I suppose a pretty penny.
Well done video, all topics were interesting. The boat is looking better and better. Regard that door, perhaps adding a fillet of wood, triangle cross section, at wood ledges would prevent water intrusion.
Agree about not varnishing teak. I use TeakGuard on my Cheoy Lee Bermuda 30, and it looks great. No more flaking! It's water based and calls for annual reapplication because it does begin fading away over time.
Timely! I've got to start on the bright work next week - weather (finally) permitting Also maybe add in a corrosion inhibitor between the stainless screws and brass quadrant?
Before going the varnish route: you might check out SEMCO penetrating oil! You do not need to sand between applications and the teak remains looking like freshly sanded teak! I think it lookas gorgeous - and more time for sailing!
Ran-day! So much work to strip/sand/vacuum/prep/varnish wood you're trying to preserve carefully. Might be easier to remove the cleats and various attachments when you do the finish coats of varnish, than trying to go around everything. Looking good!
Thanks so much for sharing all of this. And your process in managing so many (parts) to your "priority" list. Also great to know that Walter has been along, Congratulations and best wishes for your plans. I appreciate the quality of this presentation. Editing and narration. It's in the details! Just great. Thank you! 〰✨👍✨〰
Use two coats of clear epoxy sanding in between coats then Two coats of varnish . Saves time and many coats of varnish. Boatworks today has videos on it.
Nice Job Randall! I realy appreciate this video (and all the others) since I am also going to do the finish on the teak of my sailboat. Realy helpfull.
I was tasked to remove all thee flooring in a Rhodes 19, remove the old varnish and refinish when I (think) was 15. It was a major task and I completely understand your approach. Well done!
Varnished teak looks great.... but, wow, it's labor intensive. The teak on the toe rail of our Gulfstar 41 is so thin that it needs hyper care it needs protecting!!!
I think the varnish matters. How the boat looks has an effect on your appreciation for it. If you put in the work yourself, I think it would add another facet of connection with the boat.
Well said. I think this process allowed me to discover some more details where the real was coming apart… just another example of really digging in to get to know every detail. Cheers Paul!
You did a great job removing the varnish but I did notice you still had staining on the door, which I would have used the teak brightener to get rid of a staining before Sealing
RanDay, your doing a great job. Like your DIY did not know you had it in you. You always held the camera with some voice overs or guestions,answers. Like where your bringing your channel. Keep it up you will be done in no time. Get her sail ready, then go have some fun, then come back to the work. No one wants you to burn out on all work.
Varnish will lift at every point that even the smallest bit of water leaks in anywhere. Stripping all the varnish and oiling the teak will allow these areas to dry out while you find and fix them all, where the teak shows moisture. Afterwards, returning to a sealed varnish will be uniformed and protect the teak better than oil.
the sealer is great for UV... but to resist water, you'll need a few coats and it's not quite as resilient as varnish so in this case, it's really meant as a hold-over until I can get to a proper varnish job. you'll find out soon enough ;)
oxalic acid from your neighborhood drug store mixed to saturation with hot water will restore the colour of that grey teak. apply while the water is hot. rinse well. I lived in a cedar house and for years used it to restore faded cedar.
My first job was refinishing woodies. It's fun the first time, tolerable the second,,,, cleaner and sealer only from then on.... I'd rather sail than sand.
As a non-boat guy, is there a matte varnish? I love the low-gloss of old-school teak outdoor furniture, but not sure if that will work on a saltwater sailboat.
Thanks for your information on working with teak. I just put one layer of varnish on my toe rail and the next day it had crinkled. Not all of it, just in some spots. Do I use a heat gun and remove it and start again? What do I do?
My advice , get rid of as much external wood as possible , it'll be a never ending endeavor. You like the teak maintenance , maybe for the first 2 times. Best is to not use varnish , wood "works" and will create gaps where water can get in , my advice , use teak oil , easy to apply , protects and moves with the wood.
Personally I’d have not varnished. Living in the damp uk we tend to oil real rather than varnish. But it looks good. Hope it lasts. Hope Capn Q is doing well.
