Fluidmaster Toilet Fill Valve Repair-No Tools Required! 

Thanks Cathy glad it helped you!

LOL Way to go Scott!

Love it! Glad it helped you!

You're welcome Scott! Glad it helped you!

Nice job Edmond!

Awesome Brian, glad it was just that easy!

Sweet Cathy! A repeat viewer!

Awesome Chris!

So I've got the black cap off but I don't see the black seal. It seems the top part of the cap is coming off not taking out the top part to expose the seal. Any help

Welcome Derek!

Awesome! You're Welcome Ron!

I just replaced the rubber part per your awesome video. Took 2 tries but now no leaks. I have never seen that toilet flush so flawlessly. Subscribed!

Welcome John!

Glad to hear Phillip!

Welcome!

Welcome Manny!

Welcome Daniel!

LOL!

Glad it helped you!

Welcome!

@@MikeKlimek Was leaking up through the tiny pin. New rubber seal part fixed it. Thanks.

Awesome Tes!

Way to go Tom!

That is really odd that all 3 leak. Is the water pressure super high in your house? Maybe try taking the top off and see if any debris is in there. Here is a video...no tools required: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3L8gleMWj3g.htmlsi=ymQAKqomArFpYEJy

Welcome! Better late than never!

It's hard to say without seeing it and putting hands on it. If it's time to replace it, check out this video on how to do it in 30 seconds with no tools: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y6J1cfvQOGg.html

Oh bummer. At least you know for next time!

It sounds to me like you just need to adjust the level of the float. Turn the screw at the end of the arm so that it lowers the level of the float, which will turn the water off earlier.

@@MikeKlimek We in Canada have a model that describes what I asked about. From the reservoir full, if there is a water drip that is slow, the fillup to replenish the level will not occur until the water level drops by about 1/4 inch. Then the toggle action occurs, and the water level is returned to the cutoff setting. When a flush occurs, the refill flow is normal until the last 1/4 inch where the toggle will go into play. When there is a leaky flush valve at the reservoir base, we have a toggle on-off occurring every few 10 to 20 minutes cycles. Your item is a proportional control valve. At some point, the water raises the valve float and the water intake is proportionally reduced.

Odd. I would normally suggest adjusting the float downward to shut off the water earlier, but you already did that. The parts are plastic, maybe there is a crack somewhere? I think as a last resort, you can replace the fill valve. Here is a video on how to do that in 30 seconds: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y6J1cfvQOGg.html

@@MikeKlimek Thanks for the reply. I purchased a new fill valve and followed your 30" video. This was a far easier way of changing than having to plumb a new one in, especially where access is restricted. Everything is now fine, so thank you for your help. I did look into why just changing the seal did not work, so got my calipers out and there are size differences between the existing and new seals. The diameter of the inner 'circle' is 0.38mm larger on the old seal, the thickness or height of the outside 'circle' is 0.3mm smaller on the old and the overall thickness or height is about 1mm greater on the old. Now one would expect some differences between old and new, but these are quite significant, so to me suggest that Fluidmaster changed something on the 400 model. Thanks again.

@@mickandrews9458 Great information Mick

It sounds like you just need to lower the float. There is a little black thumbscrew for this to raise and lower it. Lower it down to the point that it shuts off the water before it flows into the overflow.

You could always shut off the valve to the entire house and then make your repair

Unfortunately that's pretty typical. They are plastic after all

You might try doing it all over again. There may be something still stuck in there. If you have to replace the fill valve, here is a video on how to do it in 30 seconds: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y6J1cfvQOGg.html

@@MikeKlimek Worth a shot. Thank you for this excellent video. I appreciate someone who explains well and assumes their audience is neither expert nor idiot.

It's hard to say. Could be cut/torn etc. There isn't much to replace on those fill valves. You can either replace the seal or the valve.

My seal looked great, but Fluidmaster C/S said that the seal became hard. He said I could work the seal to make it more flexible. I could not find just the seals for sale at WalMart. I will order some online to have as spares...

@@HardRockMaster7577 i ended just buying a different type of valve on amazon.

You won't need to remove the collar for this repair (I think you are thinking of my other video). Just rotate the top arm and replace the seal like in the video.

It sounds like there may be debris in it. Turn off the water and remove the top. Hold a cup over the fill valve and turn on the water to blow out any debris, then reassemble.

@MikeKlimek I have been having the same problem. I clean out the debri and thr hissing stop. But I do not get any water pressure to my fill valve. It takes days for it actually fills up.

@@LatonyaWilliams Disconnect the water supply line where it connects to the fill valve under the tank. Point it in a bucket and turn the water back on. Do you get full pressure?

Did you replaced the entire fill valve?

Yes you will have a fountain. Don't do it! You will have to turn off the building and while its off replace the frozen valve. Then you can just isolate the toilet.

@@MikeKlimek the superintendent won’t turn the water off for me. He said he’ll only do it for a licensed plumber. I saw another video on RU-vid where the guy said loosen the nut behind the angle stop, and that should allow you to close the valve. Then I can proceed with doing the work you showed in your video. But again, I won’t be able to turn off the main line valve in the building. So I loosen the nut, and that should allow me to turn the angle stop to the right to close the valve. After do the work you showed, open the valve and re-tighten the nut. Someone asked him in the comment section if water would leak from the nut and he said some, but not much. He never said whether he closed the main line water valve in the house that feeds the pipe that leads to the water line for the toilet. That’s the part I’m unsure about.

@@KEAHON I would not do this! You risk flooding your house. If the super will only turn off the water for a licensed plumber, you may have to bite the bullet and just have the plumber replace it. After that you can do it.

@@MikeKlimek last question if I may…it’s going to be quite expensive to have a plumber in to do the work to close the water line valve just so I can get to the cap to do the fill valve repair you showed in the video. What if I just leave it and let it continue to leak? The sound of the water doesn’t bother me that much to spend a lot of money just so I can change that one part. Also, it doesn’t cost my anything either as I pay a monthly HOA fee (coop building) and I can use as much or as little water as I want under that monthly fee. If I don’t address it is there a risk that something bad could eventually happen and I could come home to a flooded apartment? The cap is firmly in place. The water just keeps running and has been doing that for like 6 months now at least. I think I prefer just to leave it as is. I know a plumber will want to replace the angle stop and that whole fitting. Where I live in the northeast is very expensive. I’m sure the plumber bill will be north of $400 for the time + labor + parts. The plumbers around here are real savages! Thanks again and really appreciate your feedback. By the way, this is the link to the video which is the basis of my question to you: ru-vid.com5x6muGOa8xI?feature=share

Glad it helped you Alejandro!

Does water go into the bowl when you push the handle? Is the toilet plugged? Are there any other fixtures that are plugged as well?

I double-checked when I was at Wal-Mart the other day, and Wal-Mart does *not* stock Part # 242 on their shelves.

Welcome Steve!