Just bought s 50 year ford 3000 diesel, and the PTO kind of starts to go down a little very slowly, then pops back to where it was.....off and on. PTO has a hydraulic leak, both headlights are missing, and the RPM panel isnt working...guess you just showed us how to fix the PTO leak. Thanks so much
Great video and explanation! I have the exact same tractor. When you say the implement was bouncing, are talking about what some call hiccups? Mine lifts fine but it lowers and corrects itself constantly. Wondering if this will take care of the issue.
You are very welcome!! This is why I love you tube. Videos like this really help people! I showed my 3 year old part of the video and said, "See, you're not the only one that comes to see Dad in the tractor shed!" Good stuff man, subbed. Thanks for the reply.
On Old Fords ... how fussy are you on the hydro fluids? I have a 881, SOS trans I loved the tooth conversation with your little girl!! I sure miss mine being that young!! 😀
American Tradesmen when I was 12 years old my dad had my brother, who was 13, and I replace the clutch to teach us a lesson...about clutch use and repair. It was a successful experience with the maintenance manual in hand. Back in 1975.
American Tradesmen when I was 12 years old my dad had my brother, who was 13, and I replace the clutch to teach us a lesson...about clutch use and repair. It was a successful experience with the maintenance manual in hand. Back in 1975.
Great videos!!!! Your Ford 3000 is similar to my 2000, do you have a video troubleshooting the relief valve? My pressure line from the pump pops out when using the lift lever. New compression nuts, new line, still pops out. Your about the smartest guy on RU-vid, explaining tractors I've seen.
I don’t have a video on just the relief valve, but I will do some reading and call a friend. I’ll have you an answer but it may take a day or 2. Thanks for the kind words and we appreciate you watching
Make sure you use the factory pressure nut on the pressure line. The aftermarket ones never work and inspect the line where the nut crimps the line. If its scored, the new nut will not seat properly. Your pressure relief valve might be stuck closed. I had a similar problem when using a added on remote. I installed an additional brace to the pressure line where it connects to the pump. Hope this helps!
I had the same problem and I had my local hydraulic shop to braze a fitting directly to the nut and added a short piece of rubber hose. I cut out a small section of the original steel line and added a compression fitting to it connecting the rubber to the steel. I can get pics for you if you would like.
I have a Ford 340A industrial tractor. I have a hydraulic fluid leak on the left side rear end. The clutch rod connects to the rear end and that’s where I see a slow drip. Where can I find out how to fix this leak? It’s tough finding anything on line. Thanks !!!(Update). It’s called a dust cover brake seal. The old one tore inside the rear end. First I drained the hydraulic fluid then removed the old cover. All is good now, no leak !!!!
Have a 1979 ford 3600 and the rear lift is all or nothing. With implement on the ground, lift does not engage until the lever is almost to the 2,3 position and when it does, it travels straight up to top position. Same going down, lift doesn’t engage until around 2,3 position and slams right on the ground. Cannot float or pick lift position. Would changing the o rings like you have fix that?
Great job. Got a different problem my lift continues to lift and not stop and kept blowing the seals on my pump. Would that be to do with the upload valve too?
I have a 1980 Ford 340 and when I lift the shredder on back there’s pressure on the lift levers and then when I drive it the shredder will drop and the levers move down on their own does this mean that the piston oring is bad or something else. Please help thanks
Thanks for watching! Since I don't know what all you may have checked, let me start from the top. First, which position is your draft control lever in? Up or down? If it is down this is the draft control position. Make sure your top link rod isn't pushed in and stuck. This actuates your draft control, thus it would make the arms raise (on their own) and not lower. If your lever is in the down position, try putting it in the up position and see if the 3 point will lower. Next, if you have a selector valve running to a single hose remote, make sure its not pulled out to actuate the remote instead of the 3 point. I'm not sure, but you may also have a control for adjusting the lowering speed. Make sure that it isn't closed and preventing the arms from lowering. If you do not have the remote selector valve or a single or dual remote valve you will have a block off plate. On that plate there is a plug. If you remove this plug and the 3 point will lower then you have an issue with the unloading valve. That means you will have to pull the top plate (HEAVY). Please let me know if this helps or if you have any other questions!
@@AmericanTradesmen I removed the plug and the arms lowered down. I put the plug back in and up they go again..😔 I'm thinking it is the unloading vavle. . Where is it and what should I do to fix this.. thank you for the amazing help.
I'm so sorry, I just saw your comment and question. At 6:54 in the video you will see me installing the unloading valve, that should give you a good look at the location of it.
Hello an hi bro Sorry which country is this .an plizz I need one set of hydraulic kit for my Ford tractor 3000 .by the way I'm from fiji 🇫🇯 Islands. Plizz do let me know thanks
There isn’t a video yet...when I made this video we were very new to RU-vid and editing. This has been our most popular video by far. When I watch it now I see so many things I would do differently, so that’s exactly what I’m going to do. I’m currently looking for a basket case Ford 2000 or 3000 to rebuild on the channel, including a more informative version of this video. As to how to remove the bushing, I found a bolt that would thread into it and used a bar to pry it out. Think about pulling a nail with a claw hammer. There is a special Ford tool for this, however the way I did it worked fine.
Hey i have a 1973 ford 3000 and the hidraulic is slow and iit hakes a while to respond when i move the lever. The seals have been replaced the oil pump is good and turning the knob for changing the speed makes no difrence and the filter has been replaced too.
Thanks for the comment/question. I have a couple of questions that will assist me in helping you diagnose your issue. First I’d like to note that the adjustment knob is only for controlling the lowering speed of the 3 point hitch, so that shouldn’t have any effect on the actual lifting action. When you state the seals have been replaced, which ones are you referring to specifically? Also, how did you determine your hydraulic pump was good? Let me know and let’s see if we can get it figured out for you.
@@AmericanTradesmen we replaced the seals on the hidraulic piston as well as the top cover gasket the main pressure line o rings and the o rings on the cover for the remote cilinder has been replaced. The pump has been refurbished.
I had thought that I had to live with this problem, as it would be too expensive to fix. Your video showed me that it's fairly simple and cheep to do. Thanks again.
DaSavageFox 01 it should be a pretty tight fit. It has to hold pressure back unless there’s a shock load applied, such as if you have a heavy implement raised and encounter a bump. This allows for pressure to release without damage to the system
Matt & Andy-American Tradesmen I was just wondering cause my dad and I put a new o-ring on it and we’re still having unloading issues. and when we put it in it didn’t feel very tight
Mike Ledford I just booked an implement to it, in this case a mower, and lifted it up and lowered it several times. The system will eliminate any air on its own through the vent.
Homestead I found a bolt in my shop that would Thread into it then used that to pull it. There is a special tool for that, but like I say this worked pretty well for me