Hey I took mine apart due to sticking valves, I just took it apart and cleaned everything very well (220k on factory trans 02 f250 7.3 with edge tuner) and a couple of the valves just dont want to go back in. Any advice? I cant seem to find any info on the internet about it. Thanks
Look at a diagram and let me know which specific valves are giving you trouble and i can tell you what to do. But most of the time you'll need to either polish the bores w/bench buddies, clearance the valve using a drill and sandpaper, if its a steel valve (put the valve itself in the drill and run it under 600-800 grit for 30 sec or so at a time and keep trying it until it goes back in) or worst case, open up the mouth very carefully with a drill bit of the appropriate diameter (best to have it chucked up in a drill press, on centers, then very carefully lower the bit down until you're just touching the mouth of that particular valve's location). The root cause to this problem is a warped VB casting and many (if not most) older VB housings are somewhat warped. They will still function once you get the valve back in, assuming you don't damage anything in the process.
I have the transgo kit, and bought an additional steel valve kit. The main kit tells me to install a short blue spring inside the line boost valve an bushing. The additional kit replaces the line boost valve and bushing (says to use original if you have v6 engine). I have a supercharged v8, and would like to use the new line boost valve and bushing, my question is; is the short blue spring only intended to be used with the original line boost valve? Or is it also intended to be used with the new line boost valve and bushing from the additional kit (E4-VL-LR3)? I also already drilled the two holes in the accumulator valve body. Will that be a problem with the new line boost valve? Im thinking i have two options, use original line boost valve with blue spring, or use new line boost valve without spring. What should i do? Thanks
You’re referring to the line pressure modulator valve and little blue spring. I use the Sonnax line pressure modulator valve and no spring but if you’re using Transgo’s go ahead and install the spring (i would use the transgo valve and spring vs reusing the factory valve). The holes you drilled in the are necessary for the calibration plate that is used by Transgo to set shift firmness when working on a 96-03 unit.
quick question, i put a punisher VB in my lightning 4r100, and have done this a few times on previous lightnings, but this one has me stumped. All the other onesi installed, when I came to a stop at a light or whatnot, would always go down into 1st. However, this valve body seems to stay in 2nd at 99% of my stops, which sucks when I try to launch. I also have a 2400 stall tq converter, which would really help. anything you can think of that I need to check?
Hi Robert, Sounds like the valve body itself may be a problem (1-2 shift valve hanging up). Have you contacted the valve body manufacturer or supplier? To confirm it's vb, you can always put a bi-directional scan tool that monitors transmission control activity to see if the ECM is commanding the downshift as it should when it should be doing so and confirm/deny an ECM issue but I don't think it's your computer.
yes, i have contacted them and they said to adjust in the tune, which i have a guy tuning it by email. pretty sure he can adjust the shift point based on tps and or/ rpm. just wish i could do it myself to make it how i like it. probably i can setup my datakink2, to watch and see what its doing. thank you @@nickstransmissions
You're welcome, Robert...Sorry, im not familiar w/those particular valve bodies. If you can set up your data link and monitor the live command and control activity to see if the VB is not executing the shift or doing so cleanly when the ECM commands one then that would tell me the problem is in the VB itself. Could also be in the accumulator body as well - these transmissions are notorious for problematic 1-2 accumulator valves sticking in the accumulator body. The usual is a late, harsh 1-2 upshift but depending on how the TCM is tuned, it could manifest in other ways as well.
Hi APA, I don't share my location on youtube but if you are looking for transmission services or to have something rebuilt, please reach out to me in a direct message via the Tahoeyukonforum.com...My user name on there is Nicktransmissions.
Hey nick have a quick question for you. Currently rebuild my 4r100 with all high energy clutchs, all new lip seals and pistons, you name it it got changed. I did in fact upgrade To a full spline forward drum due to mine not being full spline, also it is a one way roller sprag and not the diode. Installed. Transgo tugger kit as well. Everything works good just confused as to I have to let off the gas to shift from 1st to 2nd all else works great and shifts are nice and firm. Any help would be great.
Hi Bunkster90, you have a leak / cross leak in the 2nd gear hydraulic apply circuit. Did you air-check the intermediate clutch once assembled? If so, you should have heard a strong, stout apply without any hissing noise at all as that (and the overdrive clutch) have the strongest apply when air checking. Did you install anything else that would have an impact on 2nd gear?
@mytransmissions5390 thank you for a quick response sir. We did indeed aircheck the entire unit piece-by-piece also are checked all of the clutch packs while they were out of the unit for proper clutch operation and leakage so far we had found none and yes there was no hissing when we had check the intermediate clutch and found no hissing. Only other thing I could think of is a possible sticking valve and accumulator valve body have built many Transmissions but the four are 100 I'm not one hundred percent familiar with like I am all the other ones that I deal with just double-checking to make sure there isn't something that I may have missed which we followed all of the instructions to their specs.
You're welcome, man...Did you replace the stock acc valve with the steel one from the Tugger kit? Sticking 1-2 accumulator valves usually result in harsh, late 1-2 upshifts (broken acc valve springs can also produce the same but yours are brand new so not likely) but your valve could be stuck outboard...Perhaps drop the pan and accumulator body and see if the accumulator valve drops into the bore on its own. If not, it's dragging and you may need to polish the bore w/bench buddies (you can also buy a bore sizing tool from Sonnax if the bore is out of round and needs to be re-sized. Also, if you have a Sonnax vacuum tester, you can see if the valve is sealing adequately or not but if not, then don't worry about it. Another thing you can do to confirm you have a cross leak before doing anything else is to stick a transmission pressure gauge on it and drive it around to see if you have any unusual pressure drops when shifting from 1st to 2nd. If so, that's a clear sign that fluid is leaking internally in the 2nd gear circuit. Lastly, did you sand the case flat with a Durablock or block of wood? Those units are notorious for having high spots on the case when they come in for overhaul.
@mytransmissions5390 indeed we did sand the surfaces by block sanding, we do this on all the th700r4s, and 4l60es and other that we build lol. Truck hasn't come by yet probably have them.stop by Monday or Tuesday. And as far as everything was changed that was in that kit we keep all the oem parts until each unit is complete to verify everything was indeed changed. Definitely will be doing a pressure garage test. Thank you for the quick response. Hoping it's more simple than having to pull this unit, went together so nicely.
Yep, likewise - hope it's something simple...I had this problem when I installed those stupid Sonnax case 'spacers'...They are these donut looking things that are intended to protect the case from breaking due to the rebuilder over torquing the two feed bolts in the center support (one's fully supported while the other isnt). Anyway, those spacers created a small void between the case and 2-4 piston housing, causing a massive leak in 2nd gear apply circuit and the intermediate clutch burned in like two or three drive cycles...started off as having to let off to upshift. Needless to say, I never used them again. Let me know what you find!
So are you staying in 2nd gear and never upshifting or are you neutral in 3rd? What torque did you use for your valve body to case bolts? Overtorquing causes bores in the valve body to warp, hanging up the valves and causing no upshift conditions. If it's shifting from 2nd to 3rd but feels like you're in neutral, something went wrong on installation of either the lip sealing surface on the piston or center support sealing rings.
