Ford 4R100 Rebuild - Valve Body Disassembly / Trick for Removing Stuck Valves 

Thank you for watching, Eric..I'll have to take another look at the vid as it was a couple years ago or so but you're correct - nothing should be forced.

hi Chris - Yep, check out my 4R100 Rebuild, Part 8: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HRWgmysaVu4.html Thanks for watching!

Hi WC, I do but you'd have to be local to me as I don't ship. Thank you for watching!

Some questions: 1) Did you have any of these issues prior to the rebuild? 2) Was the solenoid pack replaced during the overhaul? 3) Do you have a check engine light or overdrive light on? If so, what are the codes? 4) How late is the 1-2 shift in terms of vehicle speed? Late 1-2 shifts are usually associated with sticking 1-2 accumulator valve in the accumulator body. 5) Are you not able to achieve third gear at all or is it possible that you are skipping second gear all together and shifting to third gear (when you think you're in second) then fourth gear? 6) Does the fluid smell burnt? 7) What, if any, shift kit or other non-stock parts installed? The solenoid firing sequence for E4OD/4R100 transmissions is as follows: 1st gear: Sol A - on; Sol B - off 2nd gear: Sol A - on; Sol B - on 3rd gear: Sol A - off; Sol B - on 4th gear: Sol A - off; Sol B - off A common problem with E4OD/4R100/5R110 transmissions is a no 2-3 upshift condition caused by stuck/sticking 2-3 shift valve after rebuild. This is caused by over-torqued valve body bolts that are proximate to the 2-3 shift valve during reassembly. Not sure if this is your problem; answer to question 5 will let me know if it's relevant to consider.

​@@nickstransmissions 1. transmission was working perfectly before rebuilt other than it was overheating on the interstate. 2. yes a new solenoid pack was installed, and yesterday I tried a second solenoid pack. No change 3. no check engine light, and we had one trouble code for solenoid 2 low voltage. with a multimeter in the harness voltage seems to be correct .7 to .8 when activated and battery voltage when not activated. 4. with a pair of multimeters hooked to harness when 2nd gear is activated the transmission does not shift, run it up a few more rpms and when third gear is activated according to the voltage readings the truck shifts into second gear but solenoids are showing third gear is activated. 5. the only time i have got third gear is on the highway in overdrive and i get the truck to kickdown, then it will go into third gear. when the truck shifts from second to overdrive it drops like 1000 rpms and is clearly skipping third. 6. In the 20 miles that are on the transmission the fluid has darkened up some but does not smell burnt at all, trans temperature has not went over 130 degrees 7. I would have to ask the builder if there was a shift kit installed It seems like anytime solenoid B or 2 is activated the transmission has the issues Also yesterday I tested all the wiring to make sure there was not broken wires. All the wiring is good. I have a larger B&M pan on the transmission Also when I changed the solenoid pack I noticed a nut falling off the valve body . I found that most of the bolts where not torqued more the just past hand tight, I set my inch pound torque wrench to 90 and went thew everything. I also tried the neutral safty switch, made no difference. Thanks

Yep, sounds like your electrical system and solenoid pack seem to be working fine as you mentioned initially (it's always good to have the details as to what was done to confirm/deny)...So, the suspected causes are 1-2 and/or 2-3 shift valves (main valve body), 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator valves (accumulator body) and check ball placement on the case. E4ODs take 'n' number of case check balls based on prod year as follows: 1989 - 10 CBs 1990-1995 - 9 CBs 1996-1998 - 8 CBs All E4OD and 4R100 transmissions must have the Transgo Tugger and/or Sonnax Zip kit installed as those kits contain numerous updates and product improvement parts that address a multitude of factory-designed issues that lead to several pattern failures when the trans is in service. One of those is sticking 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator valves in the accumulator body - the factory coated aluminum valves often hang up in the bores and should be replaced with the steel valves that come in the kit. The builder should also be polishing these bores so there are no 'high' spots for the valves to hang up. Nearly every E4OD and 4R100 requires this to be done on at least one of those valves. If your builder did not install any shift kit or make any of the other required updates in the case (spiral lock snap ring in the OD piston return spring assembly, stabilizer case ring for the center support (center support needs machining), brazing the overrun clutch drum), I would strongly recommend taking it back and having them do so. The fact that none of the VB bolts were torqued to spec leads me to believe other things may have been missed or neglected as well. If you haven't already done so, check out the first video in my series on Rebuilding the 4R100 where I lay out all of the things builders should do to any E4OD and 4R100 that comes in for its first overhaul so you can query your builder to see if any of that stuff was done to your transmission.

Tonight I pulled apart the entire valve body and cleaned everything and made sure everything is free and moving properly. Rebuilder did tell me he never took apart the valve body… all 8 balls are in but one of them can move between 2 holes in the plate. Other than that everything looks perfectly…

@@nickstransmissions still no luck! I took the truck back to the builder, they pulled the transmission back apart and found nothing wrong and claimed to have pressure tested everything! Today we tried a tps sensor and put the original solenoid pack back in… also tested the speed sensor tonight…. Any other ideas??? How can it shift into the wrong gear vs where the solenoid power is???