Steering wheel mechanisms have to be the most difficult things to work on. They are designed for security reasons to be difficult, to fight you all the way! Kudos to the general mechanics like you who are willing to put the effort (and risk) in to getting these fixed!
I've worn out an entire day watching over a dozen videos on this procedure. Finally when I was about to give up yours came along and there is no comparison of the aspects you covered. Too bad I didn't start here first but better late than never. Good Job. Especially given you did the entire job with one hand as the other was holding the camera.
Thank you for the awesome job you did on this video. You set the standard with this one. This is a tricky, difficult repair for any mechanic, and this really helped me out at my new job.
Thank you so much for this! I love my 97 despite her issues she has over 350k on the original engine, trans and rear-end( probably the next issue axle bearings before they weld)! I broke a light puller that I had for many years. I had to fabricobble a very heavy duty custom unit. Not mad at all. Also I searched for weeks to find good information on my column and couldn't find much but 1 decent video that did help for some disassembly. I just found your video today, Googled " Ford steering column lower bearing replacement " and bam! Thank you again. I did end up making a pair of special spring hold downs for the tilt mechanism. For the tilt main spring I used a small diameter fender washer that I tapped to take 1/4-20 by 2½" threaded rod. I then trimmed the washer to grab the spring just right when shoved in 3 loops from the top. Then use the threaded rod and nut and another washer as a pulling rod. Be advised this is dangerous if the thread fails and the washer rips out. I would suggest fine thread. Or mabey a self tapping screw of the "perfect" length. I also mounted a "hold down" tool to compress the latch hooks of the tilt. This way I was able to easily separate the upper from the lower with having to fight any spring tension.
thank for this video, only and i mean only video that really explained every step. also from other videos i watched people only replaced the smaller top bearing so when i replaced mine and got everything back together and still had the same wobble it was not very exciting. but when i watched this and you explained about the lower bearing it made sense why, mine’s completely gone only thing left was the outer race. thanks again really saved me.
Thank you, this video is very helpful. Especialy the part numbers. Here in Russia there is not easy to find information about old american cars. The column installed on my 94' Mustang GT looks the same.
Just did this job today on a 2001 f150 1st one I ever had to do came out great.. hardest part for me I'd say was that til mechanism with the springs had to fight it but got it in no prob thanks for the tips sure helped out a bunch I do the s for a living as well you saved me lots of time
Great demonstration thank you I called a guy out today locksmith guy he wanted 600 to do it and he wanted us to pull the column out for him. I’m like I guess I’ll just find a video and just do the damn thing myself if I gotta pull the column out 🤨
Thanks for doing this video, it helped me a lot. I didn't have to pull my whole column, the shaft was in decent shape. Took me a bit to get the ignition set up right. I also had the clock spring come apart on me. Didn't know how the little yellow pin thing went in. But, mine is a '96 wo/tilt. Pretty much worked as you explained.
today tks to you and your video, I entirely teared down the column. top to bottom. I had this project to add a feature on my f550-> being able to rise the steering wheel, I had to cz I installed an air ride seat system and the driver seat is higher. anyway, It s all good now. (btw, the clock spring sh*t poped off on me🤦)
The ignition switch actuator got dissengaged on mine,took it apart and it was a bitch to put it back together,I end up leaving the spring out. I didnt remove the whole thing,so is a lot harder to put the spring back it,God knows I tried. Anyway,great video Sir. Yours and a few other videos helped me a lot to get it done
I just did this job to replace the ignition actuator.pin fell out.when I put it all back together now my bearings are shot and steering wheel is shaking. Guess I'll get these bearings and dive back in to it.😒 That is for the video and part numbers.
I replaced mine on a OBS truck, mine was a manual shift on the floor making it a lot easier. My complaint with ford or any make rigs is they have so many different options for the steering wheel command as cruise radio controls etc, that you have to make sure when replacing, it all matches the stuff in the rig. Everyone of them had different plugs and connections so that it was crazy. Personally I just take the column out to work on them as in the rig is tight quarters and so much harder to do. Someone stayed up late to figure out how many pieces you can make to put these things together.... just unnecessary in my opinion.... great time trying to do all this one handed.. sooner or later the boss will expect you to work on two jobs at once since you work one handed/LOL
I appreciate your help with this but I’m wondering why does the ignition switch cylinder have to come out to replace the steering shaft bearings? I guess I’ll find out when I take mine apart to replace the shaft bearings. Thank you for all the info.
One day I might have to tackle this job, unfortunately today I felt a little bit of up/down slop on my steering wheel, no side to side movement but I must thank you for recording this and showing it to us so we know what will have to be done to repair this... Do you know where I can shop for these parts and if it's possible to ship them internationally?.
That’s how I do it. Similarly you can put the spring in a bench Vice with a zip tie ran through it, compress it with the Vice and then tighten the zip tie to keep it compressed.
The very first thing that you should do is disconnect the negative terminal. Then proceed on removing the air bag following with the rest of terminals.
Do you known if there is a kit with all the bearings and parts needed to rebuild this column. I can't afford the down time it would require to disable my truck and order the needed parts. Id like to have all the parts here before I start on it. Thanks in advance
Are the parts same with a 98 flareside xlt? Will replacing just the bearing fix the loose and wobbly wheel? Parts are hard and expensive here in the philippines, thanks
Why did you replace the steering shaft? I'm doing my bearings, upper and lower, but hate to mess with the tilt steering springs unless I have to. Is there another beating that is in between those two halves? Oh, and mine is a 95 250 with a 5 spd, I assume there are the same bearings.
Idk what the issue is with mine i put new bearings in it and put it back together and it binds up and its extremely hard to get the c clip on and it wont stay seated. Pretty pissed off because ive done everything correct, its like be preload on the bearings is too much when i put it together as soon as you take the spring off it quits binding up. I know for a fact i should be able to turn the shaft smoothly and it not be hard.
What is the part number for the bigger bearing in the upper steering column housing? I’m having to replace the ignition switch actuator pin and I got the housing off tonight and the bigger bearing was virtually non existent.
I’m actually replacing the column flange. I have to do all this to get it off. Sucks. But that “spring clip” , right before that. I have a black plastic piece with 4 like, tab looking things coming off of it. I have idea how the heck to take it off. It won’t just slide of the shaft. Any ideas?
That is the turn signal cancel cam , It is made into the back side of clock spring . I had one do that to me , I had to cut it off the shaft and replace the clock spring .
18:21 That cone shaped piece you talk about. Is there 2 of them? One behind and one In front of the small bearing? Because when I disassembled mine, I have 2 of those pieces. One is slightly smaller than the other.
Got a new problem....LOL I got the truck running great with the throttle position sensor...."Now" I have a short in the column I think. Keeps blowing the fuse to speedometer and odometer and the OD light on shifter is blinking on and off....Steering wheel has seemed to be binding on wires since I have had the truck. Any ideas?
Remove the column cover and check the wires coming out of shifter handle , they were bad about shorting out , most of the time the wires can be repaired . I have had to replace some shifter handles due to wires broke where they run inside handle . Let me know if it's not the shifter wires and we will dig in a little deeper .
@@heartlandmechanic OK, thanks bro. I got a video to upload hopefully tomorrow and you may be able to see a little deeper...I'll video the tear down also...prolly gonna be later this week as I use this truck to go to work and I work night shift....
Thank you, this video is very helpful. Especialy the part numbers. Here in Russia there is not easy to find information about old american cars. The column installed on my 94' Mustang GT looks the same.
