The video shows a full service including oil and oil filter change, air filter, spark plugs, pollen filter and fuel filter change. I also do a coolant drain, flush and renew with anitifreeze.
There's a screw on the scuttle panel under the little round cover near the wiper arm, if you undo it it gives you a little more room to change the pollen filter.
When changing the fuel filter, remove the fuse for the fuel pump and start the car a few times to de-pressurise the fuel system, that way you don't spray fuel all over yourself when changing the filter. I replace mine every 2 years, as it's only a £5 part and keeps your fuel system clean and efficient.
They are very reliable! I had one for maintenance, the clutch had to be replaced,and there was still the original clutch in it and the car has 186.000 miles on it done !
Hello nice video, but in my experience i would not recommend using that kind of carjack or axlestand in that spot. I did in the past and it damaged(bend) the car there. So it also becomes risky. There are stronger points underneath the car usually around the wishbone that are a lot safer to do that. I would also definitely not recommend putting that much force on the drainplug by using an extension, you're likely to damage the thread and need an oil pan replacement. Also i thought that the oilfilter on the 1.6 is in a very difficult position in the back of the engine above the steering rack. This looks like a 1.4, but it might be a different 1.6 engine. Regards
Open oil filler cap first it releases pressure and pull dopstick out. Air box a quick cloth inside to clean access dust and debri. Always been told that
Quite right and I’m afraid not shown this time in the video although I always take the filler cap off first but not the dip stick out. You want as fast an oil dump as possible to bring any crud with it.
love the video. Everytime I buy a car I always do a service and timing belt change even if the previous owner says just been done . I go for gates belts and Mobil 3000 oil bit expensive but I always say how reliable do you want the car..... that's just me. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
Great upload mate.... i`m far from a mechanic and i don`t trust the local garages to replace all the filters in their "£50 service" ..... f**k me, it costs more than that for the filters and oil round here!!
Should fill oil filter with some oil before putting on, that will stop engine running dry of oil on startup. Amount depends on orientation of oil filter, sideways you'd only be able to put a small amount of fresh oil in filter. When refilling coolant always use concentrate. Don't use 50/50 per mix, that will only lead to dilution of 50/50 per mix with whatever is already in the system.
All cars need regular servicing otherwise they breakdown. The engine oil needs replacing at intervals otherwise the engine will die. The service interval is around every 10k-12k miles. Apart from the engine servicing there other parts that also need checking and changing if necessary, such as the brakes and the timing belt. You should put the car into a garage to have the work done if you are not confident of doing it yourself. You should also check the oil and water levels each month and top up as required. I hope this helps.
Hey, i have a question about about the wet spot in the back of the oil pan next to the nut as seen at 1:00 . My car is wet in the same spot and it looks like it may be oil dripping from somewhere behind the engine. Im curious about your point of view about this because it's making me stressed and i think it reaches the accessories wheels and belt as well. i hope it s not a blown gasket or something. Thank you!
I see the wet spot you are talking about. At the time I did that service I thought it was just where the sump had been wiped after draining the oil from a previous service. If there were a leak to worry about it would be dripping oil. In your case all i can suggest is follow the oil trail.
Hi - Easy to understand video. Which spark plugs are you using? Also mine is rough idling when warmed up and also really struggles when steering on hard lock in reverse, again when engine is hot. I've changed the pcv pipe and valve, cleaned the throttle housing and idle air control valve but still the same. Any ideas? Peace
The reversing on hard lock might be a failing constant velocity joint. For the rough idling could be an injector failing. When was the timing belt changed last because valve timing maybe getting sloppy. You could buy a OBD2 adapter and download Forscan and scan the car for faults.
@@NigelEaland Thanks for replying so quickly. The full lock reversing only happens when the engine is hot and feels and sounds like it's going to cut out as though the engine can't get enough power to the steering. The revs when first starting are at 1000 but when hot idling are below 750 so it is rough when at red lights etc. I had a mechanic run it through his diagnostic machine last week and said apart from a small fault to do with the fuel gauge nothing showed up. Haven't had the car long so don't know when the timing belt was last changed but wouldn't hurt to change it anyhow. As you know mechanics can get expensive so i'm trying to figure out whats going on with it first. Peace
MrEvilWasp i would get the CV joints checked. You could initially slide under the car and look for damage to the CV rubber gaiters which would lead to water ingress and seizure.The timing belt would cause rough and slow running at idle when there is no load on the engine. The belt may be close to breaking and that will kill the engine. If you have no record of it being changed then get it changed ASAP. I can tell you of my own experience with my BMW motorbike which was running rough. It turned out my timing chain was so stretched it had worn a hole through the adjuster pad and was just about ready to let go. It got changed and the bike then ran beautifully smooth, fuel economy and power increased dramatically. Good luck. Thanks for watching.
@@NigelEaland Thankyou so much for all your help. I'll get the belt changed tomorrow. Normally on a car this old i wouldn't bother but it has sentimental value to me because i bought it with some money my mother gave me before she died last year. I'll leave you in peace now.
Ford make good cars. Both my daughters have an old Ford Focus. . The only faults they have had has been a window motor, tailgate struts and the gear lever spring. All were easy repairs that I did. Make sure the timing belt has been changed as per the car’s manual.
I found an easier way to get my daughters car service done` told them to get boyfriends let there hands get dirty lol, When refilling the coolant did you have to bleed the system,I run the car with reserve bottle lid of and allow air to come out,
😂 when my daughters got cars I gave them each a boiler suit and got them to do the work. My recollection is I had no issues with air locks. I warmed the engine so the thermostat was open and the coolant circulating and then topped up as required.
Not at all. It is what is now recommended by Ford. Check out the Halford’s web site www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/EngineOilGuidedSalesCmd?action=findEngineOils&storeId=10001&catalogId=10151&categoryId=165581&langId=-1&findPartsMMYS=Find&engineInd=&makeName=23&modelName=23028&dvlaYear=42&subsetEngine=23028140&subsetBodyShape=23028030
Should fill oil filter with some oil before putting on, that will stop engine running dry of oil on startup. Amount depends on orientation of oil filter, sideways you'd only be able to put a small amount of fresh oil in filter. When refilling coolant always use concentrate. Don't use 50/50 per mix, that will only lead to dilution of 50/50 per mix with whatever is already in the system.
