Excellent DIY Video. Big Help, Thank you Your video shows the correct way to remove the EEC IV, at least for my 1994 Bronco XLT 5.8. I Watched a Different Video that showed the removal from the inside behind the Driver-side kick panel. That Video claimed it was for 1980 thru 1996 Bronco's, that video was wrong.. After removal of the kick panel I realized there was no-way it was coming out that way. Then I found your video showing the correct way to remove it, from the engine compartment. Thanks Again.
I didn’t even know that’s where the ECM was located! I got respect for you Steve cause I wouldn’t dare even unplugging my ECM let alone replacing parts in it🤣
almost forgot about the nightmare of just getting to this part and whats involved just to pull it out. It looked real clean inside still so thats a plus. Cool trick to check for leaks under UV light, almost like the black light test at a hotel... either way you never want to see a glowing light lol! Like i told you before I had absolutely zero luck getting the old caps out, im betting the cheapo solder gun had a lot to do with it after watching this. maybe i'll upgrade and give it another shot. This is far from my limited realm of knowledge but sounds like the flash is possible with the right tools. heck that might be what the resellers are doing now , while all the other guys are hunting engine and interior parts someone is making a quick lick on computers that have been discontinued by ford. great video Steve, glad your uploading more and more again. i enjoy these a lot!
Yeah I was fortunate that this truck isn't all rusted like the last one I did this on and the inner fender bolts came out without taking pieces of the fender with them lol. The solder iron makes all of the difference in the world, especially on the large ground-plane areas. The one I'm using cost around $30 from eBay, if you don't care about the digital display you can get the analog dial version for 20 or less. Thanks for watching, my next video will probably involve the hemorrhaging power steering.
Steve Stoltz just in the nick of time, that rebuild kit I bought was not the answer to fix my p/s (it was shot internally and the shaft was scored beyond repair) your becoming my go to for 9th gen f150 lessons 😂. Looks like I’ll be hitting a junkyard on my vacation next week to scavenge one. Looking forward to that video though!
I admit that I was surprised to see that some ancient Ford OBD1 ECU / ECM used x86 processor (Intel 80186) to do the usual stuff that all ECUs has to do. Majority of them usually just use 8051 or 6502, something similar, but not of PC technology such as x86 - Ford use ARM microcontroller instead nowadays. 80186 is basically a microcontroller version of 8086, alas.
I'm going the other way with my OBD 1--I'm replacing that 63V/10µF electrolytic with a 10µF, 100v film capacitor, since the aforementioned electrolytic seems to like to self-destruct. There's plenty of room in ECU and a film cap should probably outlast the truck. There was a time in automotive electronics where using electrolytics was considered to be verboten.
@LonerWolf Patriot Got any data to back that up? ESR on film caps is essentially zero--and they're nonpolar. The general rule of thumb is if you can make it physically fit (with the proper voltage rating), you're fine. As a matter of fact, use of electrolytics in automotive use was generally frowned on before 1980.
So, you put capacitors in it with a different voltage? Please explain how that works thank you. The voltage doesn't matter that much? Would you be interested in fixing my 1990 mustang ECM if needed?
My e350 7.5l stumbles or miss fires at idle when it gets up to temp and the hotter it gets it gets worse . Acceleration is 95 clean and shifts smooth. Maybe ecu? I replaced icm, map and check fuel and vacuum.
I am on my 3rd ECM for my 1993 F-150. Truck will start & run for 30 minutes, then die....Set it aside: have new coolant temp sender / sensor to install, and will take apart the ECM for a look. Suggestions ?
I'm thinking it may be ignition related. I would take the Ignition control module in and have them test it and see if they can get it to fail, its located on the drivers fender attached to a heatsink. Also after it dies check for 12v at the coil while cranking the engine, there is a wire Junction in the harness under the air box that can start to go bad and cause it to run like crap or not at all. One other thing that comes to mind is the fuel pump, check and see what kind of fuel pressure you have after the engine dies.
My thunder bird would die like that and I taped on the crankshaft position sensor with a screw driver and my car started replaced it and haven't had any problems since
If his is anything like mine, there's a parking brake peddle mounting plate in the way of pulling out the ECM through the inside. It is easier to pull it out through the engine compartment and unscrew the wheel well.
Wanting to order some for the computer in my lightning, what are the specs on the aluminum polymer capacitors you used? Could they all be 25v and work fine?
I don't remember the specs off hand but going higher on voltage rating is fine. So far, I have had no adverse effects from using the aluminum polymer style in this application.
@@nicholasrawls4067 The positive leg is the long one, and there is a stripe on the barrel of the capacitor that indicates the negative side. On the board itself the positive hole typically has the square solder pad
@@SteveStoltz thanks, would you happen to know if on the 92 the puter is in the same place or one of the in the obs with the puter in the driverside kick panel?
