Just picked up a 2001 FXD. This is gonna be the first project I do. Your video was VERY helpful to show me what I am dealing with. You have given me the confidence to do this project myself. Well done!
Swapped my forwards out for mids on my 2018 forty eight and I absolutely love the change it made on the bike! Night and day and so much easier than on the Dyna since they are routed the other way. No removing primary covers or draining oil involved. I had to remove the front cylinder header off my 2-1 to get it attached to the frame but that was the hardest part which was 2 bolts and some muscle haha
Just completed my first time doing this swap on my 07 fxd in about 5 hours. Thanks alot for the video you really are a life saver. Straight to the point and correct info.
@@dynademos hey man so I put my linkage and shifter on and it seems like my shift shaft is too tight in the casing because it doesn’t retract back on its own when you shift it
@@dynademos yo. So I took my time with this. Did it with my manual and your instruction. As far as I can tell, I did everything right. But the bike will not start. It will crank. But just backfires and makes a sound like its releasing air or pressure. What Im wondering and maybe this will be too difficult to answer through here. I did notice a hissing sound when I was both breaking torque and re torqing the compensator bolt... is that normal? Other wise im moving to looking for an electrical problem. Its just everything ran fine before I started doing this. The only thing I changed was better ignition cables and plugs. But I put on the old cables and didnt change anything.
I highly recommend replacing the primary chain adjuster while you are in there - the factory one causes problems over-tightening the chain - this can cause premature bearing failures ( the trans main bearing is a real pain to do), cause the splines to break in the clutch hub and hard shifting. There are several different ones on the market, some are spring loaded ( Hayden M8 etc) but do not 'ratchet-up' and over-tighten and some are manual adjustment. Manual adjustment are a bit of a pain (but handle serious power upgrades much better) as you have to take the cover off to adjust them. It is a good idea to have the chain adjusted to the higher (looser) 'free-play' figure on very high power motors as the clutch gets hot and expands thereby temporarily tightening the chain. BTW, those 'Allen key bolts' are actually called cap-head screws and the 'gaskets' on the starter motor, inner chain case cover for the mainsheet and inner primary bolts are called seals. It is a good idea to cover the trans mainshaft splines with tape so as not to damage the oil seal when re-fitting the inner primary.
Nice video. Not trying to crap on your work just offering a suggestion. Jim's Primary locking bar is a better alternative to putting 175 pound-feet of tension on your primary chain. The locking bar isolates the chain. YMMV.
RW Long it’s appreciated someone else mentioned it I have that tool now not Jim’s but another brand same thing not worried about the chain tension as much as damaging the primary my bikes at 17k now so I’ve road it over 12k no probs but Thankyou
I'm seriously impressed you know how to do all that. I had NO idea it was that entailed...that's a lot of work to go from forward to mid controls...but good job. Impressive.
Loved to have this video when I did mine. 2 littles tips for you guys doing it. Most on torque wrench doesn't work on reverse setting. Be careful to not overtight like I did. And make sure the chain doesnt touch the border of the inner primary when you torque it because you're gonna dent the lip and there's risk of leak. English is not my first language my bad
Great video,worst thing I ever did was put forward controls on a 120 hp bike. Oh, No one saw you pull the entire clutch hub or the compensator assembly lol..
Too job and very handy to keep for future reference… I really need to get the inner primary out to paint /powder coat her up .. to many British winters I’m afraid..
Thanks for the comprehensive video. I like forwards but even with the reduced reach brackets I made, I can't get truly comfortable on my 2015 Wide Glide like I do my old Deuce. I'll be undertaking this project soon.
Thanks to your video, I'm pretty confident in my abilities to do it right. Message boards and online forums just can't come close to a well made video explaining a mechanical project. It's either mid conversion, or a Rekluse clutch and a jockey shifter with mid mounts but no shifter on the foot controls, probably the former since I am trying to get this done by the end of June in time for a long trip.
WOW. This video was EXACTLY what I needed, and it's amazingly detailed and concise. Thanks SO much for posting this. One word of advice: You may want to rename this video, I know that I had a hard time finding it... was searching for "forward control to mid control dyna"... so you may get some more hits if you throw the words "forward control" in that title. Just my $.02 which may help you out! :D Thanks again for this amazing video. Spot on!
break loose, loosen, "breakaway torque" as a measurement, are common terms..... in my circles anyway... (I'm a photographer LOL) but in my first life I was a mechanical designer... and I have never heard the term "break torque" used as a verb..... it's a perfectly fine term... logical... and perhaps a common term in a mechanics world... I've never heard it used... but the next time I go to loosen lug nuts or similar, I'm going to break torque on each and every one before I loosen them, carry on, nice video.... :)
I plan on doing forward to mid gears waiting for peg mounts. 2017 Dyna and is now an antique they had to order parts hope its as simple as you made it look
Thanks heaps for the video, made the job easy. Only note is my Australian 2015 streetbob had a T70 torx bolt holding the compensator rather than the hex in this video.
So surprised to watch this video, at first HD not in my list since day one, reason are the bloody forward foot peg which i hate most, don't know why the designer create such an unhealthy riding posture bike in history but you light up my hope , this transformation of foot peg from shity forward to lovely mid position save lots riders spine.
I have two reason for riding mid-controls: my sciatica forces me to and the riding position gives MUCH BETTER handling. I used to ride forwards before my back problems and never got used to them because of the poor handling. If you've ever snow-skied, you will know what I'm talking about.
@@dynademos Big difference between water and snow skiing. With water skis, you want the front of the skis up and your body weight back. This is the opposite of snow skiing where you want your body weight FORWARD with your knees over top of your toes for better control of handling. The rhythm of slalom skiing is exactly like that used in tight turns in mountain twisties or even doing u-turns in the parking lot. When making the turn in snow skiing you force your weight forward and downward just like the motorcycle racers at the track. Look at the extreme forward body position of the crotch rockets. If you apply water skiing physics to motorcycling you need to be on a chopper with forward controls, just like pulling backward against the tow rope from the boat.
I'm a new subscriber and I've been binge watching your videos. My Dyna is a 1996 FXDS that used to have mid-controls. I'm lucky because it already has all the parts that you installed when you pulled the primary cover. All I need are the shifter and brake levers and the foot rest mounts. Are those Harley parts? I haven't found any aftermarket mounts.
Another great video. quick question ? Is it the same process for older Dyna’s I’ve got a 94 wide glide? Your video was the fist to pop up the bike is new to me
Awesome video, exactly what I was looking for. Do you know the dimensions of the gear shifter levers ? I don’t know if the longer one was used on my bike when swapping out and don’t want to buy one if I don’t have to.
Hey bro! Great video! Can you help me with the part number for those one time use bolts and the small o ring. I can't find them in the schematic. Please help! Thank you!!
Something I missed was the shifter shaft install. Did you have a new inner primary or did you drill the hole for the shaft? Did you use any seals during shaft install?
@@dynademos I bought my first Harley. Superglide 2008. I have short leggs so need "mid control". Thanks to Your video i think I can do it my self! Thomas Sweden
Man. SUPER helpful video dude. One question I do have is the kit I purchased from HD containing all the replacement gaskets came with 3 black o rings that seem like they were meant for the shifter shaft. I didn’t end up using them but DID have the tower gasket that I placed between the two primary’s. Did I need to use those 3 o rings or is the tower gasket enough? Thanks again man! Jonny
Love the vid! You've been a life saver! I'm currently working on my 2015 FXDB Street Bob. My father and I have come to a problem tho. The shifter shaft was moving nice and easy before we put on the outer primary. When we put the outer primary on, we noticed that the shifter shift was SUPER stuff and took a lot of force from our hands to move it back and forth. Is this normal? We don't want to fill it up with oil and everything if it's not. Thanks!
this is great love it cant wait to tackle this i just picked up an 04 dyna FXD making some changes and this is top on the list thank you thank you also do you have a video on double front rotor install or drilling stock 04 triple tree to change to a bottom mount headlight?
We do not I’ve seen in forums people talking about drilling it or completely change it out if u do it let me know how it goes glad we could help we got a lot more installs though for some stuff u might be interested in
Tough chance I'll get a response on a 2 year old video but I'll give it a shot. Do you have the part number for the tower gasket you were talking about? Throne that blocks the shifter shaft from leaking between the primary.
What did you say at 18 : 16? Sorry - I didn’t catch it. How much are parts for the swap-gaskets, bolts, and everything besides the actual mid mount controls? Thank you for posting this. Helped me to see it it was much more labor-intensive and requires much more preparation than I thought. There’s a reason why professional mechanics can charge what they charge, thank you!
Use torque stripe but I meant loctite my b 😬 also total cost I believe including parts without labor is 500 or so depending on how cheap u actully get the mid controls for
The 2 HD dealers near me are uncooperative and act all annoyed when you ask them to look up parts without the proper names, behave like they’re doing you a favor just by existing and refuse to give out part numbers because “ it’s against policy”. Without part numbers on the video from the get go not much can be done duplicating the mod.
You'd be better off buying a new bike with mids then buy all the parts from harley. He shows you the parts I don't think it's rocket science to outsource the gaskets and ebay the inner and outer primary. Mid control set same or new from tc bros
hey, great video, I have an06 street bob FXDBI Would you know where I can find the mid controls for this I'm having a hard time locating any of the parts other than arlen ness parts around $1000.00 too rich for my blood just for a shifter and brake pedal my bike already has the mid pegs, I only need pedals, and shifter shaft. Thanks so much. John
Awesome video. Super informative and well explained. I'm about to try this myself, but I cannot find a tower gasket for the life of me. Could you tell me where you guys got it from?
Hello 👋 great 👍 video man I have a set of mid controls for my 08 dyna street bob coming this weekend. This video helps out a lot I am going from forward to mids as well. Quick question so for the shift leveler only seal u use is the inner seal ? That’s what I seen on the video unless I missed something. Thanks 🙏 for the help
