In this video, I'll show you how to remove and re-install the front wheel on a Kawasaki Ninja 1000 / Z1000SX / Z1000. Rear wheel removal and installation: • Rear Wheel Removal and...
Thanks for your help. This helped a lot for my similar 14 mm hex bolt for the '21 Ninja 650 front wheel. Reinstalling the new tire wheel front, getting that front bolt to catch the threads from the other side took me awhile to secure it back onto the bike as it wasn't catching the threads after several attempts, but going by hand seems to be a good approach. EDIT: Okay, I find that I had to get the threads to catch the bolt by using my left hand to pull the rim near the bolt towards me while with my right hand, applying first pressure while pushing in the bolt and turning the wrench with the 14 mm attachment hex bolt at the same time. It finally caught. I was about to give up but then your video gave me the inspiration. Thanks again!
nice detailed explenation with some tips and tricks ... should we ever need it :) i have done 1400km / 870 miles on my 2019 Z1000SX and am loving it so far ! got it serviced for the first time last weekend so then the real fun began.
Throughly enjoyed your video. I’ve owned motorcycles most of my life and only really done the basics like oil / filter changes. I’ve always left the bike at the dealer for tire changes and more advanced stuff. One month ago I picked up my new 2024 Z900RS at the dealer where they had swapped out the tires because of a recall. I noticed immediately that they had the front wheel on backwards per the arrows pointing the wrong way on the tire. Now I wonder, how the hell did they even do this because the speed sensor would be on the right side instead of the left. These kids working at the dealerships are often trainees left to just do the job and figure it out as they go. Videos like this help me double check some of their work and make my riding much safer as a result.
Suggestion for removing and reinstalling the front and rear wheels. Use a piece of 2x4, to slide under the wheel when removing and reinstalling the axles. Makes the job a breeze.
Hi, I really like your channel, I also have a z1000sx but from 2015 and I would like to know if you can make a video of how to change the air filter and antifreeze liquid, thank you very much. greetings from🇪🇸 The Alamo Madrid Spain, I have learned a lot with your videos.
I think you shouldn't put the bike back on side stand after compressing the fork, it might change the balance due to the pressure difference on each fork while on side stand. compress it and tighten the pinch bolts in 1-2-1 order while on rear paddock stand or while someone holding the bike upright so that it stays in balance while tightening.. and before tightening the calipers pump the brakes couple of times and keep it pressed while tightening the calipers it will align the calipers as well .. minor things but makes it better if checked :) correct me if i am wrong or if it doesn't matter that much :) .. also i hope you balanced the wheel after changing tire :)
I don’t think it makes much of a difference, but I’m not positive. The axle is fixed in the left side of the fork once it’s threaded in. There’s still weight on the right side of the axle, regardless of the whether the bike is on the sidestand or not. But who knows. The calipers don’t have any movement to adjust on their mounts, so I’m not sure that holding the brake will do anything. This is something that I do on my bicycles with hydraulic disc brakes, though, since those calipers need to be aligned to the disc when being tightened down. And yes, I did balance my wheels after mounting the new tires! Thanks for watching and for your feedback!
@@JonLong Oh cool.. that caliper advice was by a local mechanic i trust.. he said it's a good practice so i thought i should share it :) .. also mine is regular type not radial mounted caliper, i don't know how much it affects radially mounted caliper or mine.. an advice from a experienced mechanic who knows more about this stuff would clear about both of the doubt i mentioned.. if you find anything interesting enough, make a video on that :) .. great video as usual, ride safe :)
Jonathan Long I e had 2 new front tyres on my bike by 2 different tyre shops and both of them tightened the pinch bolts while the bike was still on the stands ..??? 🤔🤔🤔.. both these tyre dealers have been trading for years and have changed 1000s of bike tyres ..😁.. well done with vid 👍👍👍very simple ,well made and easy to follow..!!!👍👍👍👌THANK YOU !!!
Pumping the forks up and down, after the bike is off the front stand, helps ensure that both fork legs are truly parallel when the pinch bolts are finally tightened. It's also a very good practice to check for smooth fork stroking, without noticeable stiction, when you're all done.
@@JonLong - I agree, re the calipers. As they are fixed, mounted in an identical position, it would be fruitless to keep them compressed while tightening. It certainly hasn't made a blind bit of difference in my experience on the ones i have had the front wheels of.
Also use a thin coating of lithium grease on the front and rear wheel spacers. It helps them stick so they don't fall out. You can also look at the arrows on your tires which show the direction of rotation.
Hello! I have the 2020 model and when I was tightening to 78ft-lbs one day, it felt like i was going and going and going. Possibly damaging the axle nut. Where can I find the "authenticity of it"? I used to tighten it down to 78 but I don';t know, it feels weird. Thank you
Hi John! Great video as usual! Have you already changed brakes pad on your bike? I am in about 10.000 miles with my 2017 MY so I was wondering if it's time to replace them as it's impossible to check their real situation without disassembling brakes... Thank you in advance
If u say 10000 miles, u r way past the limit of ur brake pads. Change them asap, atleast the front wheels. Its possible to chk the wear of pads without disassembly, but should be done by an expert if u have no experience. U need a flashlight to see through the calipers. The pads can be seen. But the wear judgement can be done by a mechanic. If u remove caliper, then its easy to say if pads need a change or not.
Shomit Sarkar I’ve done 14000 miles on my original brake pads on my 2018 SX and had it serviced as per the schedule by garage... they say the pads are fine ..???
@@dmandhelen I rode my ninja about 23,000 miles before I decided to change my brake pads and they still had about 2,000 miles left on them. Both front and back are super simple and after watching a youtube video posted by Revzilla, I did not have any problems...Rear brake is even easier than the front ones. So do not waste your money, watch some videos, get the tools you need and just do it! You wont regret it and will feel 100% better afterwards because you would have a new understanding of your bike and will become a lot more capable & confident a rider as a result.
Thanks! I got nearly 6000 miles out of the stock S20 tires. The majority of my riding miles are on straight roads, so I tend to square off the center before the sides are worn down.
The wheel speed sensor is what ABS uses. ABS measures the speed of the front and rear wheels and compares that data to determine if one wheel is locking up (rotating more slowly than the other wheel). Traction control uses the same sensors.
Definitely not the correct way to align the right fork which is floating by design. If u hold the brake when u pump it u defeat the purpose. Place blocks in front of the wheels, then run into them and push down. Before tightening the calipers, spin the wheel and snap the brake on a few times, then snap and hold while u tighten, this aligns the calipers. All this is to prevent wheel drag and or a pogo stick front end effect. To test spin the wheel after, it should get 2.5 rotations if u do it correctly. Anything under 1.5 is un rideable. Hope this helps.
Jonathan, I had a discussion with the Kawasaki technician where he had suggested against using this type of conventional front fork stand as that can cause the compression, damping and rebound of the front forks to go haywire in some cases. It is advisable to use a Triple T Stand to lift the front wheels which I have detailed in my TeamBhp blog - www.team-bhp.com/forum/superbikes-imports/191403-2018-kawasaki-ninja-1000-comprehensive-review-9.html#post4381089 . And also the Dummies Guide to both wheel removal with proper puncture repair plus manual balancing of the wheels, here - www.team-bhp.com/forum/superbikes-imports/197871-dummies-guide-superbike-puncture-repair-wheel-balancing.html . Cheers...
Thanks for sharing the information! I'm very skeptical of that claim, however. There is no way for the fork stand to impart any harmful forces to the internals of the suspension, most of which are contained much further up the fork. Maybe it's an issue with older bikes that don't have upside down forks? But if you look at where the front stand lifts the Ninja, it is only holding up the lower bracket of the fork. This bracket is designed to withstand the massive forces of a fully loaded bike hitting bumps on the road, cornering at high speed, and hard braking. The weight of the bike rests on this bracket even when the front wheel is on the ground. Lifting the bike up from this point will not cause any problems. The rebound and the compression of the fork (which is the damping) are controlled by the passage of fork oil through small orifices located within the fork. Using a front stand cannot have any effect on these internal mechanisms.
Where can get the pin you have on your triple tree stand in your blog? Would they ship to Canada? I have the stand but cannot find a 27mm pin with a flare for it. All 27mm pins I've found so far are just straight 27mm with no flare.
@@DjWr00m You can try contacting the seller Udaiveer on +91 9987381283 and ask him whether he can ship it to Canada. You can take my reference. Cheers...
@@JonLong I agree with you John, however, the stand Dirak Kaile is recommending is definitely a great improvement over this method; trust me, I had both type of lifters...then just gave away the type of design you have used. This type is very prone to instability, while the Triple T stand is super stable. As far as the Diraj Kaile's reason of compression and damping; that is complete nonsense and illogical (sorry Dhiraj Kaile).
You said the torque spec for the front speed sensor bolt was 25NM/18lb ft. Well, as I tried 18lb ft, the bolt broke off. I dont think that's correct. Better check your statement. You have caused me a huge headache with my 2020 ninja 1000sx. Now I am not sure which crook will be robbing me to fix this catastrophe
I'm sorry to hear that. I double checked the factory service manual and those torque specs are correct. There are various reasons why a bolt could break (weakened from over tightening in the past, defective part, cross threaded or contamination on the threads, improperly calibrated or inaccurate torque wrench, etc.). Is it just the bolt that's broken? Were you able to get it fully removed? It's an annoying problem to deal with, but fortunately it's very solvable. A bolt extractor should work to get any stuck pieces out, and you can order a replacement bolt for very cheap. Let me know how it works out for you.
be careful! - for Ninja 1000SX model 2020 and 2021 - there is a different bolt in place for this sensor - it's a smaller one - just only M6! - the older models have a M8 bolt (for this 25 Nm is ok) - for the M6 bolt I would recommend only 7Nm!
@@grahammckenzie4252 do you know/did you check which bolt you have in use for this sensor; as I know the model 2020 has a M6 bolt; the model in this video is an older one - equipped with a M8 bolt! .... if nothing has been broken (when tightening the M6 screw with 25Nm) then you were lucky ....
