Currently having goosetuned doing my wife's subaru, knowing he specializes in raptors if you're not protuned I highly recommend it. The hidden hp he finds and smooths out all acceleration points is amazingly good. I've tuned on a few different systems myself over 10years ago, I'll let him tune any time and we'll worth it.
I planned to go goosetuned due to the reviews, but since it required the Cobb Accessport I started running the off-the-shelf tune first. I'm pretty happy with the Cobb Stage 2 ECU and Sport TCM tuning. I'll probably go goosetuned once I get more upgrades in the future.
Great job… your hard work played a part in my installation success. I would have to agree with the comment you made about being annoyed with the install process. Although, I will have to admit I did this on a 2016 Expedition. So, technically this install isn’t possible per the companies that either make, or sell, the Full Race products. I’m here to tell you it can be done; I did it. Disclaimer: I had to order my parts as if ordering for a 2014 F-150; this engine bay is setup almost exactly like my 2016 Expedition. One exception that comes to mind in the dual boost reference with a reference sensor reading each side; located on the driver side. This was only an issue when installing my Full Race oil catch can. I was able to overcome that small obstacle. So, thanks again!!! I appreciate the great content!!!
You're pretty bold in attempting the install without fitment information. I was originally looking at 2020 Expeditions and planned on making it off-road worthy, but they are so expensive I ended up with the Raptor for around the same price. You should post your work on the forums if you haven't already. People might want to make the same upgrade.
Damn stumbled upon before ordering, having second thoughts. Hate spending all that and u still gotta fab up mounts n stuff, especially dislike the lack of instructions. Thanks for video. How’s she running now, and tube needed?
The kit does come with instructions for the intercooler install, but not the throttle body spacer or the BOV. The throttle body spacer was fairly simple to install by disconnecting the throttle body wiring, removing the four bolts from the throttle body, and taking the throttle body off of the intake manifold. Then you just have to put the spacer in between the throttle body and the intake manifold, ensuring that the o-ring gaskets for both the throttle body and the spacer remain seated while you tighten the new longer bolts included with the kit. The tubing for the spacer is just run down to the BOV. Make sure you block off the unused ports. The BOV would not have been difficult to install had I not insisted on it being “frame-cut bumper ready.” The standard v-band tube, which points the BOV downward, makes the install simple. You just have to us the BOV by itself, without the adapter. When I added in the complexity of the inward facing BOV, it required me to use the adapter and make a strap to hold the adapter on. This was not necessary at all for install or function. The last thing I’ll say about the BOV is that the valve is adjustable. The turbosmart website has instructions on how to adjust the BOV for different pressures, etc. I did not make a single adjustment and it worked great out of the box. I did buy new and larger hose clamps from Mishimoto on Amazon (MMCLAMP-35T). These new clamps were the right size for the turbo to intercooler connection since the supplied clamps were too small and did not allow me to use the constant tension spring. (Edit: the Mishimoto clamp is actually MMCLAMP-3T. I also purchased 35T clamps as extras for the actual intercooler fittings) The truck has been running great with zero issues on the Cobb Accessport stock engine tune and transmission tune. Any modification of your truck can create issues, however. If you overtighten the clamps you can crush the tube, if you don’t position the tube in the hose properly you can cause boost leaks. The entire system can move over time and create boost leaks also so I keep spare clamps and tools in the truck just in case. It is important to have confidence in your own work, which is why I prefer to do things myself. No one cares more about the function of your vehicle than you do…so just do it slow and correctly the first time.
Like I said in the video, I planned on installing a frame cut bumper in the next 6-12 months and didn't want to risk losing parts, having the wrong parts, or having to do more labor when installing the bumper in the future. This was the same reason I insisted on swapping the tubes, not doing all the work at the same time would have put me in a bad position. If you plan on installing this type of intercooler and the relocate kit is already included then I highly recommend just installing it at the same time. If the intercooler doesn't come with a relocate bracket and you are 100% certain that you will never even consider swapping the front bumper, then yeah, it would be completely pointless.
Hi, good jog bro, Ijust installed an intercooler, it give me a code in the computer of the sensor that goes in the ventilation grill, what did you do, did you leave it disconnected?
You only need to move the adaptive cruise control module from the bumper when changing to an aftermarket front bumper. I chose to do this in advance to prevent any issues in the future if/when I swap the front bumper.
@@ruffwrenchn2235 Ok thanks. If you still have the other BOV tube with the flange, do you want to sell it? I might see if Full Race will exchange mine. I want the flange so I dont have to make a bracket.
The throttle body spacer provides 3 ports in the charged air stream. You can install different things in these ports like additional sensors, analog boost gauge, or methanol injection. The purpose of the spacer in this kit was to provide a location for the vacuum hose that operates to the pneumatic blow off valve (BOV). I only used the single port for the BOV actuating hose and used two plugs from the kit to block off the extra two ports.
