No prob they should have been thrown away. Never reuse the bearings because the old ones are scrap metal. Especially these as they are corroded in addition to being not spherical. Used bearings are ellipsoidal.
@JJ-jn5lr I understand where you are coming from. However, there is a few things I notice (as a bike mechanic) that could help. 1. There is no way to adjust hydraulic brakes like you do a cable brake. You can bleed them (usually makes them more responsive, but there is no adjusting). 2. Unless you have all the tools and knowledge to work on said brakes, do NOT try a bleed yourself. Your brakes won't work how they should and it's dangerous. 3. The crank falling off sucks but I've had it happen MANY times, on stuff I installed properly following all procedures and steps. It happens. It sucks. But sometimes it's not the installers fault (can be a host of other things, stripped bottom bracket is a common one, wrong thread pitch is another). Most places do their best to get you the best results possible, however I do suggest a true bike shop (only does bikes) vs a box store as they do not have properly trained mechanics. Hope this helps with your struggles
Had my 1989 Outrageous 18spd, for 15 years, my Sears Free Spirit 10spb for about 7, and my Giant 21spd, for 5..... All have required routine maintenance..... I don't see have your bikes don't last LoL
I just spray my 30yr old Raleigh Summit with wd40 - funny enough the pedals have been squeaking for a couple of years - I’ll just replace em with others off a scrapper bike.
I'm lucky to have a bike shop near my house that does good work for cheap. I've told the owner I worry he's not charging enough because I don't want him to go out of business. I popped some spokes on a bike I didn't buy from them. They replaced spokes and resealed for $6.00. installing new race face cranks and BB stuff... $45.00 too cheap for me to bother doing my own work.
Unloaded will always spin better dry since there's no grease and suction to interfere. Doesn't mean it'll protect anything at all though. That's why all those unloaded ceramic bottom bracket spin tests are nonsense.
@@Vermonsteredyes!! Thank you!! I couldn't have said it better. Once saw a railway bearing that barely spun when greased, but it would outlast an ungreased one by a long shot, obviously. Same principal applies to this pedal here (to the original commenter)
It's usually the EDM that doesn't belong in these vids that they use too, I love EDM and it's music production is like a swiss army knife, u can get any vibe out of it and most noises.
Or just the same Number 2 grease. It works for anti seize, electrical connections, and even keeping power tools working way longer than you’d ever expect.
Yup! I still have some old Sun Tour Greasegaurd XC Pro pedals, also 2 Greaseguard headsets. They licensed the tech from WTB. I also machined zerks into my old Raleigh cottered BB. It's my rain bike built in the '70s. Cranks still spin smooth after 20 winters of hard use. But the seat tube is probably 1/2 filled with grease after pumping it in there for years!
@@rollinrat4850 Those xcpro pedals were so sweet. I make a point of stopping in small bike shops in small towns hoping for nos XCpro and XCpro comp stuff.
@@mikegilbert5434 I've been fiddling with bikes for quite a long time. We used our road bikes off-road before MTBs existed. Couldn't resist exploring as a kid. Now I wrench in a high end shop for fun in my retirement. People throw away all sorts of barely used 'old junk', ALL in the name of the mighty 'upgrade'. It's a great little side benefit to my job. A customer even gave me my custom dream frame from the '70s. An Albert Eisentraut frame. I'm restoring it. Never thought I'd get one of those! I repurpose anything I can. Cycling should be affordable, simple and realiable..... (not to mention) it's supposedly a freakin 'green sport'!!
I used to ride bmx in the 80s and 90s. I got a redline in 92. Loved the bike. One day i rode it through rain and mud. During a rainy summer. Loved the bike so much, i took it completely apart before winter. Cleaned every part and greased and oiled. It became something i did every 5 to 6 months. I still have the bike but its in my garage. Waiting for the next rider.
@@norbertnagy5514 Cycling, camping, offroading... (sigh). Everything I grew up doing has become an elitist activity except one: Fixing my own car is still cheap fun! :D
@@jamesgizasson yeah, well im just saying people here keep saying they dont fix something till it falls of, they seem both cheap and rich at the same time.
@@norbertnagy5514 Makes sense. I learned to fix my stuff because I couldn't afford to just buy new ones. Seems like a lost art now, and I'm only 35. X3
Why am I so fascinated with just a simple bike pedal 😂 I need to get out more I think but hey still a good video either way so well done mate great editing
Sealed bearings do eventually wear out but you can add more grease with a very thin needle. Poke it right in the middle of the seal and cover the hole with super glue.
@@paule4204agreed. In areas like pedals & headsets I don't see why cup & cone can't be the norm. They get minimal work and should be serviceable and not just replace in 6-12 months.
Used to have a motorcycle with ball bearings in the headstock ...then I found bikes with sealed bearings..oh the joy...no faffing around trying to place ball bearings around in a circle in grease..those sods were literally alive and would taunt you by jumping down the headstock 🤣..
@@ipsojure2137 or virtually free to maintain, it takes like 10 min to do. unless you are getting paid like 100 an hour, and that does not factor in the time to go get them from the store. it makes zero sense to buy new for the sake of greasing bearings.
@@marcusborderlands6177 it was clearly better before,if it is spinning that fast to begin with it doesn't need grease. You're not gonna get a faster rotation with more grease it clearly didn't need it and slowed it down when he added it so therefore it was totally fine from the jump...if that pedal didn't turn or was stuck then you add grease 🤦🏻
Dry bearings has less grease friction. Dry bearing means metal on metal though. So what's worse? Metal on metal creating a pit in the shaft because it worse away? Or a small drag of grease that helps everything stay lubricated and last longer? This us just a stupid ass question. Edit to make it more simple for you: Oil in an engine creates drag, Do you remove the oil because it causes drag and lowers your performance?
He needs the pedal to spin well with most of his bodyweight on it, not to spin well with no load. That's why the grease seems to hurt but actually helps.
@@bobomomo23 yeah so true they don't maintain their stuff here in india everyone think geared. Cycles are not successful in terms of riding reason mostly of them dont service thier bikes on thier own
I never understood why bicycle manufacturers don't add grease fittings/zergs to all moving parts that need grease. It's such a stupid thing to have to take everything apart for a simple grease job.
you dont have to take everything out like our little overachiever here. I also dont think that pedals need grease in the first place, idk what grease does but my pedals still work like new and I havent put a single bit of grease on them
You can use motor oil and a syringe with a bent needle to reach almost any place. Only an idiot will use grease on a part that is sealed with very little room for contamination. Grease provides highest protection from contamination but nothin else.On the rear axle for example i take out the wheel and drip on one side and flush it on the other. It's not a car ... 10 ml is more then enough to flush out contaminants from the axle and have that oil spin with no viscosity ... give it a push and it spins forever.Btw for most parts the oil comes out clean on the other side after only couple of drops. Only the first few drops are black. Turn it while dripping to be sure it's cleaning the part inside
@@SkoolConnor They probably still have grease in your pedals then if they are still working as expected. that, or you have closed bearings. Anyway, the grease is a lubricant, it prevents the ball bearings from wearing down over time, in doing so. your balls and the race in which the balls reside will become looser leading to a rougher ride. or rattling. Your wheels will also have similar races and bearings. they too need greasing from time to time. but that really depends on how much you ride. I ride back and forth to work everyday, in rain shine snow. and ice. on road and muddy/ sandy dirt. if i didn't do maintenance my bike would be in a very sorry state.
@@MAILER-DAEMON The society has gone downhill for sure to think that a bearing will fail before grease does, I am not trying to judge you but I am not OK with your mindset of no greasing...even humans need grease...sometimes.
Yea fr, I've seen a few comments like this and hate in the answers of those comments but I had this exact shit happen to me. I had copper paste from the factory in my hub and a bit of street salt in the winter killed it.
@@jamesglenn520 because its cheaper than alu specific paste and cars are much more encapsulated than bikes. In exposed positions like this it really is ass. Street salt or if you live close to the ocean the air galvanises the shit out of your alu parts if you use copper paste.
I would say if you can regrease it, you always should. If you like something and it can be kept functional, there's no need to replace it, and you should always avoid creating wasted parts.
That’s how I respond when someone asks why I poured $2k into a $900 BMW motorcycle. I would rather keep it on the road then contribute to the wrecking yard
@@albinbunjaku9314 not for a repair, but it's all these little processes that make up a full rebuild of a bike, and that's something I do often. When I say nice workshop I moreso mean a place with enough room to move around the bike while it's on the stand.
A little dab of that grease on the pedal and crank threads along with the anti seize compound will ensure there are no voids when you tighten it down. The copper anti seize works fine the pedal will come off decades later. 35 years experience and thousands of bikes doing it this way never had a problem .
Guess you never rode through water and let the bike sit up for a while. Aluminum, copper, and inevitably contaminated road water makes a corrosive battery which rots the metals. The only way you haven't had a problem with that is you must have never rode it in the rain or on a beach or such.
@@southernflatland 365 days a year in Wisconsin for decades always came off no matter how long I left them on. Had plenty of poorly greased customers bikes on the other hand.
I used to tape the shaft right over the bearing surface near the thread part when I had a pair of those, for it to leave as small gap to the pedal body as possible, since there's no kind of dust seal whatsoever lmao.
Most people dont maintenance. Everything is thrown away. I like seeing other people actually trying to make what they have last! I've been teaching my girls and the neighborhood kids how to maintain their bikes. They'll last forever if you take care of them. The majority of the donated bikes we get are dry as a bone! Most folks never tear them down. They spray them with WD-40 and run! We do 100 mile maintenance on the ones we ride a lot, and definitely clean and relube if the bike has gotten wet or muddy. Kudos
Those peddles are 60$ to replace. Why would you pay 20-30$ to get bearing maintenance done instead of buying new peddles? Sounds like snake oil salesmen tactics from a maintenance shop. Better replace that chain while we’re at it!
I have news for you. Atter that much wear taking it apart cleaning it and adding grease. Just makes for a clean, greased up, worn-out part. All that slop will return just as soon as you push that grease out of the way. What you should have done while you had it all apart is replace the ball bearings and races for $5.
With this type of unsealed pedal you have to do this at least once a year or maybe a couple times. With a sealed pedal like Race Face composites you'll be bringing your pedals over to your next bike without ever having service them.
Cheap pedals. No seal on the inboard side, so crap will get in there and mess up your bearings. Plan on doing this often. Better yet , spend a few bucks more and get better sealed pedals. Then you can spend more time riding.
for those who noted it was spinning netter before - it was metal against metal so wearing fast - you want the pedal to spin well when you are pushing it which wont be the case with no lubrication and that metal/metal contact. - you dont want the pedal to spin too freely when you're not on it. its pretty bad for landing jumps
