Outstanding video. Appreciate the absence of distracting music. This looks a perfect fit for a 78 year old with a bad back. You speak clearly, and patiently cover the main features. My only concern is the maintenance (bleeding and recoiling). Also, please go over the white like sponge that you rub against the blade. You’ve got a new subscriber. Thanks!
Thank you. There's actually very little maintenance once you get it working. Maybe add oil occasionally but not often. And what I was rubbing on the blade is a large candle. The wax on the splitter/wedge can help make splitting a little easier. Not a big deal, though.
I live in a condo with a smaller fireplace I use this to split already split wood and it makes fire maintenance way easier. My grandson is 7 and he helps with the splitting and stacking. With smaller pieces I can shut down a fire in about 15 minutes and go to bed. This works as advertised and is plenty strong for my use and doesn’t require electricity or gas.
I've been using this model for 6 seasons now (we heat with wood so we split a lot) and highly recommend. I've found you can split logs well above the recommended size. You can also kneel on the ground and work the handles to split the wood - it's must faster and easier on muscles with two people thought.
I love that they put a 5 ton jack on a frame to split wood. Ingenius design, wonder who jerry rigged their jack for their jack for their first time to make this possible.
I concur, great video. Great job explaining when to use each arm. I’ve seen them for about $135 at the closet Harbor Freight so I’m definitely grabbing one this weekend.
Great video.. very informative. I would use a maul/ax for 90% of what your splitting and the splitter for those real PIA pieces... just me. Most of what I split is like 2' around... but I like seeing what else is out there 👍👍
Yes, kind of depends on my mood - log splitter or maul. I had a piece hit me in the mouth (4 stitches) last year when using the maul so that occasionally influences my decision 😂.
Good video and an interesting product. They also make a small plug in 5 ton electric wood splitter that doesn’t about the same thing but, would be a bit faster. Like others have mentioned, I really like your idea for wood racks. Still I have to ask, why oak? Why do so many splitter reviews use oak? I got some lovely river birch I have been splitting. It’s even worse than elm. I would love to see this up against a few chunks of knotted up birch rounds. I try to only burn wood from trees that are already dead ( from natural causes), have blown down or were cut down because they were damaged, too close to a building, or cleared out of the power company electrical lines. Because of this I burn a lot of different species of wood. Oak, maple, honey locus, ash, walnut, and hickory split pretty easily. Some like elm, sycamore, river birch, and cottonwood are much more of a challenge. I am very careful to make sure all my wood is well seasoned before burning it so, I have had good luck burning different woods. Some do produce a bit more heat.
I know this is a year later, but just in case anyone ever sees it, I'll say it..............I had one of those electric 5 tons and they don't have enough power. They seem to only have that peak power for a brief moment and then it drags. I got rid of it and got this manual one and love it so much more. If I could justify paying for a 10 ton powered unit, I would but, they're $$$$$.
I bought one and it worked fine for about three weeks until the U clamp broke - cheap cross piece - and it would no longer retract. AVOID. Harbor freight has some good deals, but you have to be careful. I've been buying stuff there for decades.
I've got the Sun Joe version and the places which are bent on yours are the exact same as mine. I'll admit that I've put it through a torture test more than once with very large logs. I think mine was also shipped minus any sort of oil and it took about a quart to fill it. For me, I move it on a dolly rather than just pull it. The splitter was a very good investment since my back isn't the best from working various retail jobs over ten years. Best of all, this can be used inside during the frigid winter.
I'm thinking that if you use slip plate on that wedge it would work much better. Strip of the paint on the wedge and then cover the wedge with slip plate. Over time the slip plate works its way into the metal.
Good video and an interesting product. They also make a small plug in 5 ton electric wood splitter that doesn’t about the same thing but, would be a bit faster. Like others have mentioned, I really like your idea for wood racks. Still I have to ask, why oak? Why do so many splitter reviews use oak? I got some lovely river birch I have been splitting. It’s even worse than elm. I would love to see this up against a few chunks of knotted up birch rounds. I try to only burn wood from trees that are already dead ( from natural causes), have blown down or were cut down because they were damaged, too close to a building, or cleared out of the power company electrical lines. Because of this I burn a lot of different species of wood. Oak, maple, honey locus, ash, walnut, and hickory split pretty easily. Some like elm, sycamore, river birch, and cottonwood are much more of a challenge. I am very careful to make sure all my wood is well seasoned before burning it so, I have had good luck burning different woods. Some do produce a bit more heat.
Thanks for the comment. I have lots of oak trees on my property and we had an ice storm a few years ago that toppled a lot of limbs and trees. All oak. If non-oak trees had fallen, I'd have been happy to split those, too 😉
Just picked up this unit. Haven’t bled the system yet, but noticed that the short throw handle socket has a tab at bottom to anchor it in, the long throw goes straight through and handle drops all the way to ground when not applying pressure. Did yours have stop tabs in both sockets?
Just saw your video for the first time and it was very useful to me that I subscribed. I am interested in this log splitter as I have 3 trees that were ruined by a freeze. I was wondering if you could tell me if I have to wait a couple of years to let the wood dry out and get seasoned before I can use this log splitter
That's probably good for people who need the workout, maybe office people. If you're putting in 12hr shifts, sweating in the oilfields, that's the last thing I want to do. I get my brother over for an afternoon with the gas powered hydronic splitter at waist height and blast through 8 cords of wood, and Bob's your Auntie. Chore done, let it dry.
I have split very large narrowly hard wood. I blew out the power cylinder. I need to re kit the jacks. I plan to turn mine into a bender, or some kind of shop press.
Hey man, thanks for the video. You're the guy who convinced me this would be a good buy, so I just bought one. Question, though: There's a stainless steel clip that dangles from the right side of the frame just above the right spring. What's that for? No mention of it in the owner's manual.
I think you may be referring to the cotter pin. That just holds in place the roller that moves along as the ram is extended. The up/down position of that roller ensures that the ram stays at the right height as it extends.
A few comments. My splitter works good on soft logs. Sometimes you need some kind of a spacer when the logs are too short. One problems that I have is trying to split oak. I use both handles till it gets hard to work both of them. I continue with the one that keeps pushing. It's finally splits the log and pieces of the logs go flying everywhere at a dangerous high speed. What am I doing wrong?
It's a little bit of an art figuring out how to get the logs to split smoothly and safely without flying out, as you note. A few things to keep in mind: 1) Make sure the ends of the log sections are cut straight, not angled, if possible. This is especially important when using a shorter log to fill in the space in the splitter. When that's not possible, make sure the end that's touching the shorter log is straight, and have the angled end going into the "blade." 2) Make sure you're only splitting logs lengthwise, not sideways. This is probably obvious but making sure... 3) Logs with knots in them can be VERY difficult to split, especially on hard wood like oak. When that happens, have the knot end near the ram/jack and the non-knot end hitting the blade. 4) What you describe as using both handles until it gets too difficult, then using just one...that's normal. The right-hand (when viewed from behind) arm is the easier one on mine and is used when it requires a lot of force to split the log.
Thanks for the response. I'm pretty sure I'm using the the right handle when trying to split the wood. It's just scares the heck out of me when it decides to split with no warning like a cracking sound or seeing it begins to split. When it goes it goes. @@FixEverythingYourself
Hmmm. That must be really hard wood. Is it old and dried out? When I split fresh oak it's moist inside and it splits slowly and in a controlled manner.
I have another question. I bought the splitter, but the arms fall through the red holders. I can see a place where a screw could go in to strop the bar, but mine doesn't have anything there to stop the bar. It's mainly the left bar and the goes right through and hits the spring. Did that happen with yours?
Mine definitely don't fall thru but I don't have access to the splitter tonight so can't tell you how the pole stays in. But no, they should stay in on their own.
Good luck! It's a fun little device once you get the hang of it. Make sure to read the instructions on how to orient the wood and how to split it. The wrong technique can make it impossible to split.
Don’t do it! I bought one of these because of this video. It was much more difficult than how it appeared and then it broke after only 1 hour on a small log.
Wow, yours must've had something wrong with it or, possibly, you had the log in the splitter the wrong way. I've used mine a ton and, while it does take some muscle, it has performed excellently.
Thanks for the demonstration. Nice job. However, I learned not to buy Harbor Freight products due to the high failure rate of what they sell. It's mostly junk. I'd like to see how the splitter holds up after a year of real use and not garage storage. I'll be looking for you video explaining how it broke or you had problems with it. I hope I'm wrong but I just don't trust the products anymore.
I wouldn't be surprised if Harbor Freight replaced or repaired it for free, even after 10 months. Of course, it's a hassle hauling that thing to a store but might be worth a shot.
Have used mine for several years and it has worked flawlessly, I love it. This year however I went to use it and the long throw handle just moves in and out but ram doesn’t’t move. Short throw lever works fine and moves the ram forward and it stays out. If it needed to be bled wouldn’t both sides not work? Is there something not doing it’s job inside that (big)pump? Tia. Brian, Alexandria Mn
Yes, it doesn't sound like bleeding is the problem. I don't know what the problem is but it sounds like you only need to focus on the one side. There could be some debris that has built up on some of the internal parts on that side, preventing a good deal and allowing oil (and pressure) to flow out. Could also be an o-ring that needs to be replaced in that piston area. Sorry I can't be more specific; I haven't had that problem (yet).
ugh, a Flyers fan. feel sorry for u bud lol. sucks too cause i love their colors and logo. u guys are goin good so far. kinda surprised, but dunno how long it will last. appreciate the video. imma check out ur video where u bleed this thing next. good luck to ur team this year with torts ~A Michigander wings fan lol
@@FixEverythingYourself lol ha haaaa. Yeaa, u guys are lookin good. Hopefully they can progress. I hate to say, but i actually think of the fans of the Flyers and how much it must suck, seein as how we've sucked for awhile and were good for so long. This isnt fun, hopefully u guys can do somethin, along with getting a new GM cause the moves i hear bout from there i never understand. Good luck bud
Thank you! 5'5" 70 year old woman here, just got another one of these after having had one 10 years ago. It's nearly effortless! But what's this about them maybe coming with no oil in them??? How would I know? Mine works fine...
If yours works fine, it's fine. If it doesn't seem to extend or retract properly, perhaps lack of oil is the problem. But you won't do any damage to it like you would to a car with no oil. So nothing to do or worry about if it's working properly!
I haven't yet but just recently one of the arms no longer produces ram movement. Planning to take it apart soon and possibly making a video if I can repair it.
I just got one of those log splitters, I'm a small woman over 60. How do you split the logs that have one or more branches coming out? I have Bradford pear wood and it's a mess to look at, branches went every which way. Those don't seem to want to split. Thanks for any advice you can give.
Best way is to put the "fork" of the log at the ram/piston so that only a clean, round section of a log is against the splitter segment. Logs with branches are difficult, and they won't split where the 'Y' is.
@@FixEverythingYourself Thanks! That makes sense. It is amazing how many logs I have split in 2 days. My husband, who is disabled, has even been able to work the splitter. This is the right level of tech for us.
I bought this and mine is not moving that smoothly. I put the oil in and bleed it. What are we doing wrong? My left handle tightens up once the blade hits the log. I cant get it to split once the left handle tightens up
Use the right arm when the ram / blade first contact the log. It takes less force to move the right arm when first getting the log to split. Then use the left arm to speed up the splitting once a good crack starts. It's possible that you're splitting a log that has a big knot in it or something like that. Try flipping the log around, too.
Looks like more work than just swingin' the maul. Especially since you aren't even splitting big wood. Anyway glad to see this, I know what not to waste my money on.
Requires more movement than swinging a maul but far less jarring impact from doing it the old fashioned way. Additionally, if using young helpers (i.e., kids), they can't handle a maul but can handle this. But to each, his own.
It would need to be a very sturdy, strong table. The splitter is probably 80 pounds, plus the force of pushing the arms would be too much for many tables. Buy you could improvise with a thick piece of plywood and some cinder blocks or some other way to raise it.
Consider a battery powered chainsaw if you are cutting moderately sized trees. Much quieter less maintenance and safe if you follow normal chainsaw rules. I have both a medium sized gasoline power chainsaw and a Makita battery powered chainsaw that my wife got me as a present. I have used the battery powered saw to cut a lot of storm damaged trees and I like it.
If you're young and healthy and want to exert the energy, an ax is easier, albeit high-impact. This splitter enables even a child to have enough strength to split logs, so it makes splitting logs accessible to anyone. All depends on one's situation.
I've split 5 cords through it so far. Does what I need it to. ru-vid.comUgkxUyQswtttSffRMblGbrhCvZn7JkhtG1-7 I scrounge all my firewood and am not equipped to handle big wood, but for logs up to 24 inch diameter or so, it works great. I've been amazed by some of the gnarly bur oak and elm crotches it has split. For the tougher stuff within it's size range, you might have to study the piece a bit to decide the best attack, but if you split smart it's up to the job. It did arrive low on oil, and I was would have nicked it half a star for that, but it has regained my full confidence. UPDATE NOVEMBER 2021: Still going strong after all these years. I love the one-handed operation. Hope it's still in production if I ever need to replace it