I recommend to always fill your tank and add some fuel treatment for extended storage. This will mean less of the metal surface is exposed to the air and will be less likely to rust while your bike sits for long periods like the winter. So many bikes not just Suzuki's have this problem after they sit. BTW that sensor you installed for water temp was actually the air temp sensor that goes into the air box from the looks of it.
I took stones and petrol and shook them around for like an hour.. it really cleaned the rust!! Then pool acid for about 1hour. The tank looked super clear after that! Dried it and then bought a 2part epoxy mix and re lined the inside. Stuff really worked!!! Tank is still clean inside! Took pump apart and cleaned. Sent injectors to me mate for sonic cleaning and now the bike runs like a dream!
I had these exact symptoms on my ZZR from not using it often. I used some redline fuel cleaner and it now runs perfectly. No cutting out while riding anymore and starts first time. I hated the way it just cut out while riding out of a busy junction. It was embarrassing and dangerous. My bike is older (94) yet no signs of rust in the tank yet. really strange to see it was rust on a more modern and well looked after Hayabusa🤔 I don’t even keep mine garaged all year round and I bet yours is.
Absolute ace buddy, I have done every fix you did and nothing, the one thing that is one of the least expected... I will try this right after this weekends storm.... thank you...
Because alcohol in gasoline attracks watermolecules. And gastanks are not treated on the inside. After derusting the gastank I used a product that leaves a rustproof layer inside the tank. It's a 2K compound liquid.
Only thing I can add to this, if you have a rusted tank, and use a rust treatment to remove the rust, do yourself a favour and get a ceramic coating treatment for the tank as well. I had the same issues on a GSX 650F when I first started out riding, did the rust treatment, removed the rust, but 6 months later it was starting to come back. Did the treatment again, but this time also did the ceramic coating inside, and never had an issue from that moment on.
Boys and Girls this is why you always do a fuel pump PSI and fuel flow test before and after replacing. had a very similar issue on my GSX-R rust destroyed my fuel pumps seals replaced the pump and cleaned tank but the injectors were still dirty spent 3 months chasing the problem. :D
thats usually how you fix things unless you are a technician. wait i forgot its youtube you prolly are a technician with thousands of dollars worth of diagnostic equipment.
Had an old 1981 cb900 custom that was stripped of its fairings and had beautiful paint job. Kind of looked like a nice kz1000. (naked style bike). I purchased at a very low price due to the same problem yours had. Rust in tank. I done a similar rust eating treatment and added see thru inline fuel filter. made for a nice dependable city cruiser after that. Had five gears with a high and low so it was more or less a ten speed which was great for highway but then I missed the fairing from wind fatigue.
My 1981 Suzuki GS1100EX had the same problem, i.e. rust. Unfortunately there was no way to get rid of the problem without tearing down and rebuilding all 4 carbs as well. It seems that Suzuki doesn't take any precautions against rusty fuel tanks. It would be so simple to solve the problem if they would just use galvanized steel, or aluminum to make the tanks.
I had the same symptoms with my 1999 and it was the supply fuel line between the tank and the pump being kinked. Replace the hose and make sure it isn't kinked when putting the tank down.
gsx1400 missing out slowly open the throttle 1000 rpm stumble misfire 2000 rpm higher revs ok.my cagiva tl1000 stated it first. 2 months past.still not solved the cagiva,out on the gsx1400 got home and it started to do the same thing. the first thing i did with cagiva tanks of yes two. stript cleand new fuel. new plugs a set of carbs . all cleaned .try setting the TP on the cagiva is no joke . by the way no F1 no codes ,some say injectors air filter. plugs ECM . fuel pump filter. on tick over jumping up and down. as for the gsx1400 i will pull the tank in a day or so. thank for the video .2782019.by from john in the uk.
wow had me worried Busa owner to xD glad you got it sorted have a 2003 70,000km still pulls like a frieght train hard as nails but gonna need some new clutch plates soon otherwise is an amazing bike id only sell it to get a new busa
Great i go, bit mine, idle is so rich and some times die.....over 1200rpm, no bike can catch me, non stop rising RPM's , on high rpms run beautiful......hello from Florida, USA.
Must have given you a head ACHE, I thought I'm going through problems getting my bike to run but I That's honestly extreme, so much money and none fixed. Well done for diagnosing the whole bike and getting it to run though!
To byl absolutny bol w doopie, ale w koncu doszedlem.. Szkoda, ze zaczalem od konca . Wystarczylo kamerka inspekcyjna zajrzec do baku :) Czlowiek sie uczy cale zycie :)
I have a similar problem with my cbr1100 albeit more intermittent with fi light coming on and poor fuelling. So I know how you felt. Internet provides a myriad of solutions some of which you've mentioned and would involve a 'lucky dip' approach with a potentially high bill with no fix. Fora appear to be full of bs as well with everyone having an opinion with no idea. Dealers and garages either aren't interested either because they don't think they'll solve or want to lead you a merry dance with a bill at the end and then saying there is no problem we've found. One garage suggested running high octane petrol for several fill ups due to ethanol gumming up the system in regular unleaded. That didn't work either. Really depressing as I want the bike and wouldn't push the issues onto some other unsuspecting buyer to find. Not sure but don't think cbr1100s have issues with rusty tanks and tank looks really clean from the top. What to do what to do?
Yes tank can be the issue if it was not coated. If tank was this rusted you need to completely dissasemble the external fuel pump and filters to clean out the crud or bike will still cut out. The Design of fuel system is the problem on 1999 2000 with external fuel pump. I added secondary low pressure fuel pump see the hayabusa.org for explanation also how to clean out the external fuel pump assembly. My bike already had tank coated so i didnt have to deal with that problem. Make sure to change fuel hoses every 2 years as they collapse from the heat under tank.
@Found rust in the very bottom of the tank, and a clogged up fuel strainer :) Piculiar indeed, tank looked pristine from gas filler cap. Removed fuel pump, and looked pristine from that end too. Only when I disassembled the fuel pump unit, I found a very bad patch of rust and crap in the very bottom, next to the fuel strainer. I got much higher hopes for spring, now :) Lesson learned: Inspect thoroughly. First impression can be deceitful.
DUDE! I have the same symptoms in my Ninja and the tank is full of rust due to a faulty gas tank cap. I've exhausted so many options and still the problem isn't fixed. Going to try this now and report back.
@@benher973 bad gas and gunk was clogging the system every time I was cleaning it. From fuel filter to carbs. Eventually de rusted the tank, cleaned carbs and installed a second fuel filter.
Thanks for the videos, they are really helpful 👍🏻 I have a problem with my 1999 Busa, it runs poorly under load. I have had the pump off twice! 😬 Have disconnected the alarm and emptied the tank to check the fuel filter/sieve etc. No joy 👎🏻 Its driving me crazy!!! 🤬 Have ordered the dealer mode cable/switch and will check the TPS etc when it arrives. Any suggestions very welcome.
Interesting so you filled up the whole tank with the evapo rust and left it for a whole day and thats it? I need to do this on my bike rush! Thanks for the tip
3 keys to that. You need to have the tank totally dry before pouring the evaporust inside. let it marinate in warm place. Dont rinse with water, do it with petrol.
adikxx83 I see. I literally need to do it my bike is stalling so times. I took the bike for a ride today and i accelerated and picking up close to 7k rpm’s I felt the bike struggling to accelerate more like if the gas pressure was low or something it felt strange my Ike never has behaved like that
same problem with my 1gen busa after 10mins of riding it feels losing the power of my bike(not electric) but my tank is clean anyone with same problem?
Same here battery is good I put a new stator on and same problem I’m going to check my tank to see if any rust is on there when I get off work I have a 1st gen also
Im have symptoms of my bike dying just out of the blue but my bike runs fantastic until it decides to quit. Let set overnight and fires right back up and will run great until it decides to quit again. Im going to check my tank now.
Great video man. Brother. I noticed my gas cap is sticky hard to turn the key. Then saw sone rust where the fuel nozzle hits my take inside. So I am guessing I have the same problem.
When you have issues like that you start from the fuel tank and all the fuel related parts and carburettors then your ignition coils etc and then work from there if the problems have not been resolved.
Yo man first of all awesome video. And second my 06 hayabusa has the issue where it struggles start up sometimes , and I'm think it could be because of the tank rust , but since I don't have much time to try to fix that right now I wanted to know what would be the best fuel additives to help get clean of the fuel system out
MOTO ACE hi buddy, best rust remedy is Evaporust or MetalRescue. For fuel system cleansing people usually recomment Wynns cleaners. I run it on my bikes on a regular basis and so far no complaints.
adikxx83 cool thanks for the Info man , and one more thing ,what was the name of the site that you got your fuel pump from? Fuel pump from the dealership over here price goes from 450-600 $(didn't really actually give me a price, just a rough estemet and not really sure if they included laber cost as well ) the last time I called..which is a killer there..
I have a 2015 and it sat with a full tank over the winter. I just took it out the other day and the ABS light and the F1 light came on after about a 15-minute ride. It started to bog down like it wasn't getting any fuel. I turned around and came home. I wonder if that is what is wrong with my busa
Hello. I have a 1st gen busa. And I am facing the same issue. The bike does not start once stopped. I changed the self bearing and everything. Worked ok for maybe a week or so but soon realized that it wasn't the problem. I wasn't aware about the tank cleaning. Let me try that. also there is a weird sound when i try to use the self for starting purposes.. Do you have an idea of what the issue may be?
HI today i mite of found the cagiva problem ?intake carb rubber soporte mount as been damaged buy someone before me. just came across it by look. opening the butterfly fully shining a torch down the port i seen some rubber sticking out in side .i will try and find one. for number two cylinder ., this mite sort the problem . this mite help others i op.by from john in the uk.
Helo sir i am having a small issue with my 2017 hayabusa While cruising on 2000-3000 rpm there is a pop up sound coming ….if m on above 4000 rpm there is no problem running smooth…bt on 2000-4000 rpm ithere is pop up sound coming up please help me with this I recently changed the spark plug also bt it is still there
hey bro.. my bike was taking jerks.. and it clearly seems the problem is regarding fuel supply.. i have checked the injectors but as i placed them back the bike has started to die.. what do you suggest..?
I de rusted it well with evaporust and that's it. I had a bike for about a year after filming the video and the tank was still clean inside. Not sure how well it held up after that.
Wouldn't it have been cheaper and less exasperating to simply take it to the dealer and let the experts figure this out. I run top tier , Chevron or Shell 89 octane in my 2005 Busa and add Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and fuel injector cleaner most every time I fill it up.
Hi, I saw Your video on "why to buy an RF900R". and guess what, i bought it and i`m very happy with it. Do You still have the RF900 and did you experience similar problems (rust) with it? The only problem i have with it is that my speedometer says 100 kmh, but TomTom says 90. so i have a 10% speeddifference. Went on german autobahn and its 260 vs 234. same 10%. I read that older bikes lose HP, mine is a 1995 model. Do You know of any way to fix this? I read about after market sprockets, but i seem to have stock. I read about a new crankshaft fixing it, but thats a bit expensive to "try". You seem knowledgable to me, so i thought i`d ask. I enjoy Your videos, keep up the good work. Flying Dutchman
Thanks! That's awsome that you bought the RF. Yes still have mine and it NEVER MISSED A BEAT! Zero rust problem. I havn't posted any vids about RF because i spent nearly a year riding the Busa but i will post some RF update soon(did a few little things to her) I took my RF to Dyno last year and it produced 117 HP at the wheel !!! Typically dyno will robs about 10% of power so that would give about 130 HP at the crank which is what Suzuki claimed when the bike was new! Unfortunately high mileage and abuse will take its toll on power output in any engine but you can do things to preserve the power for years. I always run mine on fully synthetic oil(protects the engine much sooner then cheap mineral oil which needs more time to provide lubricating coating), 98 octane fuel makes things a bit better too. Free flowing exhaust and unrestricted filter+iridium plugs will also add a couple of HP. So you loose power with mileage but get small gains there. Regarding false speedo's indications that sounds about right . 5% to 10% of error is kind of normal for most of bikes from what i see/hear. To be honest with you that's why i always laugh hearing some people telling me they pushed 170mph on their CBR 600cc....(ridiculous) .Velocity indicated by speedometer is always exaggerated. Sadly i don't have an advice on how to fix the RF speedo issue,initially i was going to suggest going back to stock sprockets but you said you have stock setup in yours. Maybe new speedo drive at the front wheel? Kind Regards!
Maybe this might be interesting? www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/archive/index.php/t-38509.html what Riffer says about the GSX-R750 camshaft? What is your opinion on that? I have been pumping octane 95 untill now, will switch to 98 from now on :) Bought my RF in januari for € 750,- with 50000km on it. Had it checked and still had € 1500,- in maintenance and replacementparts. But i thought it worth it. Now i`m looking for simple HP-corrections so the 10% will come down. Love to see what You did to Yours. I still need to replace my mirrors. I think they vibrate too much and at 240kmh they fold inward because of the wind. Planning a trip through Norway to the NorthCape next summer. So still some expenses to come... Kind Regards, Flying Dutchman
Hi,50.000km for RF is nothing, mine has equivalent of 60.000 and runs fine so you should be good. I heard the GSXR camshaft /valves story a few times so quite possibly it's true. I also wanted to go that way some time ago and even bought forged Wiseco piston kit for mine. Capacity would go up to 1043cc and compression to 12.0:1(stock is 11.3:1). I also planned to buy DYNATEK ignition system and V&H downpipes but the whole project with labour cost would come out close to £4K so i scrapped the idea and bought the Hayabusa instead. Still have the new piston/rings/valves so if financial situation allowes i'd love to do it all one day. Going back to simple and cheap power gains i think the cheapest option is some exhaust can(100euro?), k&N air filter(50euro?), Dynojet kit on carbs(100euro?),iridium plugs(40 euro?) and wrapping the downpipes with thermal tape for better scavenging effect. I did all of the above to mine:) Thermo wrap also keeps the bike slightly cooler during very hot days as those downpipes get lava hot in city traffic. The thing is that if you do all those it's worth to get it set up on the dyno by an expert cause without a proper tune you probably won't gain anything... By the way i saw you video showing your red RF and if you really paid 750 euro for it then u got a deal of the century cause it looks healthy and proper :) For that money it's a sin not to buy Lol:) Regards Ade
hey bro.. My busa was running fine but started to take jerks as if fuel supply isn't proper.. I pulled the fuel injectors n checked them they were clean and good.. After I placed them back the bike is not starting properly and dies while running as if no fuel is being supplied.. what do you suggest..? Should I check the spark coils as well..?
adikxx83 thanks a lot, my bike has been running like crap and i also notice rust in my tank. Thank you for posting.... Evapor-rust is expensive so i dont wanna purchase more than needed.
Izzy Colon just make sure the tank is completely dry before you pour evaporust in. Remains of petrol will weaken evaporust. Ince the tank is ready for the treatment do it all in a place that is warm(garage maybe) and once all completed don't rinse the tank using water as this will cause quick return of rust. Rinse it with petrol and always try to keep it full of gas ,that way ur safe.
moral of the story: take advise from the internet with a grain of salt next time a can of starter fluid could have diagnosed the issue within 3 mins saving you 600 pounds.
