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Cross-country trip...ok, easy to-do list: 1. If you are unaware of their condition, replace the fuel injection hoses. No need to buy Porsche hoses for $1K+ in total. Buy bulk hose, and crimp with oetiker clamps once everything is in place. 2. Replace reference and speed sensors. Wires get cooked. Don't buy the Porsche ones, get the equivalent BMW ones which are the exact same sensor, slightly different wire length, and 1/2 the cost. I think from a 5-series with Motronic...not sure years. Been a while. 3. Spare DME relay 4. Enjoy your trip. I've driven these through floods, through floods to the track, tracked it for 4, 20 minute sessions, and back home. They are incredibly reliable, mostly due to simplicity. Enjoy!
Do not do that with fuel hose. The barbs on the hose ends were designed for a plastic lined fuel hose and will cut through any of the modern stuff you can buy at the store. It is a great way to start an engine fire. Many 911s, 944s, and 928s have been lost due to either old fuel lines or incorrectly replace fuel lines.
Jay Tubbs 1. Agree. The lines are only holdning max 2,7 bar pressure. Use quality clamps. 2. Agree. The 635 CSI sensors are about 10 mm longer and cheaper as you said. 3. Agree 4. Oh yes.
Which is why you have to use proper fuel injection spec'd hose. Mine's on 10+ years, and going strong. Plus, I'm guessing the Car Wizard will know how to do it properly. :)
I paid $500 for the set from 944 online. Originals lasted 30 years. You think you can cobble something up that will last as long? Maybe you just can’t afford to own this car, - stick with Toyota’s!
Well, it is back to school week. Look at how cute you are! I looks like you're all set for your first day of trolling Junior College. I'm sure grandma will post a photo of you on her Facebook page. So proud!!!
A little Porsche history for you Hoovie.... The reason the ignition is on the left side is because of its LeMans Racing Heritage. In the early days, at the start of the race, drivers would run to their cars and jump in then go.... Having the ignition on the left meant that you could start the car with your left while putting it in gear with your right. Winning an endurance race is a culmination of small things that add up in the long run....
The '78-'83 and '84-'89 air-cooled 911 engines are known to be very reliable and robust. It is not uncommon for them to easily go 250,000 miles without a rebuild. There are a few things that need to be updated, depending on the year, but with 100k on the clock I'd think those items would have already been taken care of on your car. Drive it, and keep the revs up! They don't like low revs.
Eric Elliott What updates can be done to make the Aircooled the most reliable it can possibly be? What needs rebuilding after 250k? Rings, valve stem seals?
Basically you replace the cylinders and pistons as a kit then rebuild the crankcase with new bearings and balance the whole assembly. Most of the time people rebuild the heads, or replace them if it is in their budget and the parts are available. Curil K2 is your friend here.
I don't recall all the updates, it is just a few, but off the top of my head, retrofitting a pop-off valve on the airbox, and updating a pre-1984 car with the improved 1984+ cam chain tensioner. As far as a rebuild, the common issues in these years are valve-guide wear, and broken head studs. At the very least, you are looking at a top-end rebuild. Of course, if the engine isn't well-maintained, these things will fail at much lower mileage, along with other things. For example, if you have poor oil cooling (lazy with changing your oil) you'll get spun rod bearings; if you over-rev your engine all the time, you'll get broken rod bolts.
Eric Elliott the 3.2 has no need for any immediate improvements. Only if you see symtoms of a worn engine a rebuild might be at hand. Otherwise, keep a DME relay in the glove box and carry on. No need to talk about the 3.0 engine which is not applicable in this case.
we had a 73 at the shop for a few weeks and i drove it quite a bit. Loved that car. All my co-workers wanted to drive the mclarens or the vipers or ferraris etc but I always chose the old 911 - we wrapped cars in vinyl in case anyone was wondering
Telling everyone that you and the crew drive customer cars isn't a selling point. It's more of a bragging and not cool sort of thing. You hiring? lol I'd want to drive them all, but if I couldn't then I'd love to try one like that.
It’s worth it, they will ultimately go up from there since the demand will never go away & they no longer make sports cars this pure & simple, I predict prices will continue to soar.
Tyler, from the look of your clutch I’m willing to bet that your clutch helper spring is broken. In ‘85 the clutches were mechanical and not hydraulic . You’ll feel a world of difference once replaced.
Forget about the modern sports car. Always remember that you got this car for the nostalgia. The classic look, the engaging driving experience. It has enough power to fully enjoy it on the road. You're a man of many cars, it would not be complete without an air cooled 911. There are many tasteful upgrades to this car to make it faster. You should look into it and shoot a stream of videos about the process and results.
207 flywheel horsepower in North American trim is enough? I hate to be a RU-vid comment nitpicker but that is less than a contemporary Corvette of the era. Oh well, if you fall asleep on the interstate late at night at least the loud ticking valves will wake you up. Hail Satan and bring on the sacrilege, I'd rather drive Apollo 911 with its LS power; I am too much of a "philistine" to enjoy an air-cooled Porsche. It does look pretty good, though.
I recently picked up an ‘86 3.2 in guards red with beige interior and I absolutely love it. These videos were a huge help as I processed through my purchase decision. I now have 2 air cooled Porsche’s: a 993 and the 3.2, both of which I feature on my channel. The 3.2 I found has original paint, 76,000 miles, paperwork back to new, COA and even came with the spare keys and the associated valet key wallet.
They leak freon from new just by having it seep through the 40 feet of soft lines running throughout the car. Adding a pound per year is fairly normal. Also keep in mind the condenser is right under the main oil cooler and above the engine so it isn't getting cool air to remove heat from the freon to begin with. Adding a remotely mounted condenser would fix the cooling issue. Griffith's sells a kit just because of the sub par performance of the original system.
Totally get you regarding the clutch. I borrowed my friends and it took a while to drive it smooth. Gear box also challenging at times. The rear view of the car is awesome.
Tayton Ousley Yeah but those fuckers at Rockstar Games couldn't resist fucking it up. I just wanted a clean stock looking one, without a crappy body kit or jacked up ride height.
My dad had one brand new in 85. You described it well! I liked that smell! Its funny what you remember. Fun fact...It was that exact color and model! That car handled like a dream!
With all it's various nits and compromises, it still holds your attention like very few cars do. I haven't been able to let my '87 Targa go in 23 years. A rotary compressor is what's needed for true cold A/C.
This is a great looking car, the prefect color for this model, I would love to drive one of this era. Would love to buy one too but... you did great on this one. Have fun with it !
Great video, I grew up with my dad owning a 930 Turbo. I can still remember how much it was servicing it. But man was it awesome to drive... Scary though.
Thanks for making me feel better about not buying a used, mid-'70s, 911 back in 2001 for just $15,000. I currently have a '78 VW Beetle convertible, and one of the things I like most about it is that most replacement parts are reasonably inexpensive.
Bulky safety additions always drive me insane but I have to admit they look pretty damn good on that car. The only part I don't like is the ruffled rubber on the edges of the front bumper, a pretty minor detail.
I like them, they do a better job at dating the car which is good with this car. Plus, an asshole bumping into your parked car may not cause thousands of dollars in damage due to "bumper checking"
The AC worked fine in my 1980 SC that I bought new. Always blew cold. If you change that AC belt, you won't find yourself stranded. If you're at Rennsport Reunion on Friday, I'll buy you a beer at the Corkscrew beer tent; noon at the Corkscrew!
Glad it wasn't just me with the AC. Had an 81" Targa SC- took it back 3 times with AC complaints- was finally told "That's as good as it gets, it doesn't get that warm in Germany"- oh well. Was a blast to drive though.P.S. I enjoy your videos
Loved the out-takes at the end. Yeah, on my BMW-based channel I'm learning more and more about the value of editing - and how much footage (gigs?) gets left on the cutting room floor...
Just got a race prepared 996 Carrara 4s because of how reliable your 260k mile Carrara was! Considering mine only has 68k miles and a ton of new parts I’m sure it’ll be good to do another 260k miles!
Get ceramic window tint. You can get it almost clear so it won't change to look, but it will significantly help cool it in the sunlight. Beautiful car. It made my eyes turn green.
Tyler, hopefully it won't leave you stranded on your way here to Monterey! And, you definitely won't need your A/C here either, it's staying a comfortable 65 - 70 degrees daily.
Today I found a 911 3.2 near me for sale. $28k and it's cleannn. I then looked up about them on youtube. Then your video came up and was posted today :P Same specs too.
Always wanted one. Worked all my life and about ready to retire and still can’t afford to buy this model as you present it. I’m a teacher. Oh well, reality can be painful but it’s free to continue wishing! Right, Hoovie?
Mike Cady Was that true of all Porsches of the era? My brother has a 944S and the clutch is the exact same. It makes it horrible to drive. At least until you get used to it.
Hoovie: 1. The 3.2L engine if well maintained and you got a PPI beforehand (did you???) is a 200K plus engine before it needs even a top end refresh. 2. You NEED TO BUY NOW (so you don't continue to say silly uninformed things in your future vlogs): 1. A used Carrera cup bypass pipe/Test pipe (don't overpay for a Fabspeed one a used $50-100 test pipe will work as good or better) 2. A free flow muffler for a. Sound b. better flow 3. A Steve Wong chip for your Motronic box to remap your system for the muffler and test pipe. This will WAKE UP that engine BIG TIME. 4. A Wevo or Rennshift shifter or if you want to go cheap, a Siene Systems self centering spring for the shifter. This will remove the slop from your shifter and keep you from clipping Reverse when downshifting from 5-4. 5. Sierra Madre sells a CHEAP bumpsteer shim kit $20! or you can to turbo tie rod ends. After you do that you can work on handling/suspension mods/torsion and sway bars. I suggest you handle these items in this order. GET ACTIVE on Pelican Parts forums and buy used parts from the classified section of that forum. I found ALL of the aforementioned items on that forum CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP! BTW I saw this car for sale from the Asian gentleman from socal selling it for his brother and I think you did just fine on price!
Nice car. To help mitigate the cooling problems one could be creative and go the route of mitigating the cause: Heat. Wrapping the exhaust and insulating the cooling lines/ducts would be a logical place to start. Having an auxiliary engine oil cooler in line with the original would also aid in heat mitigation with the ancillary benefit of protecting the internal engine components from further heat/wear degradation. Using heat insulation in the cab and engine compartment is also another inexpensive way to deal with heat allowing the A/C to function more effectively. There are kits available to spin the engine fan quicker to further enhance engine cooling. Good luck. Thank you.
The engine sound is magical for sure.Have you cross referenced air cooled VW parts like the blower motor.Use to maintain some german cars back in 70s and a lot of the parts were interchangeable and 1/3 the price and sometimes much cheaper than that!
As a fellow Porsche-ophile told me when I first was interested in air-cooled Porsche’s in the late 1990s: “ You have to pay to play”. Parts are expensive, but these cars are very rewarding to drive. They have excellent steering feedback and strong brakes for their era. The same friend also told me : “ Second gear is the Fun gear!”
I have an '84 Carrera cabriolet (shifting is like paddling a surf board over waves and duck diving for each shift) and I found the wheel bearings were actually Volkswagen -I bought them thinking I had bad bearings and it was just a sticky left caliper. I rebuilt calipers for like 8 bucks a side. Never send your calipers out as they destroy the plating and end up rusting even on a Miata. I do everything myself on this car and yes it can be a trip but worth it and I don't to pay and expensive mechanic. I thought I had a bad clutch and I think it was just the clutch cable had stretched over the years and when I did the whole feeler gauge thing to set it I ran out of adjustment and had to bump start and drive it home in second gear. So I'm just putting in a clutch cable. I also like URO aftermarket products for the old 911... there are lots of minor issues with mine but pretty solid over all. I need to drive it more. I also have a 1997 Boxster -Arena Red and hard top with the dual row IMS bearing and it seems like a solid car too. I'm putting tow hitches on both soon. Cool cars that are not all that fragile but fixable with a bit of TLC and time in the garage and videos from Franny's Garage. I have to take my driver door panel apart and replace the door stays soon. URO makes them aftermarket and that is what I got. I love the sound of these old cars too especially with the top down. My car does not have a spoiler.
Another great review! How many times have you watched the ‘Against all Odds’ car chase video since this purchase? (911 vs 328) OR watched Charlie Sheen’s ... ‘No Man’s Land’. Thanks for the video!
Im glad Im not the only one to see that. Its those cars that are going to be the 'last' collector cars I think. Unless you have a dual masters in mechanical and electrical engineering, you really wont be able to restore your 2017 Dodge Demon. There is just so much code that goes into new stuff.
Don't underestimate the next generation though. They're all growing up on computers and ipads. I'm betting in 30 or 40 years, when every "normal" car is loaded with electronics, something like a Demon is going to feel crazy simple to the guy who's been studying computers and engineering since he was 12. I'm sure someone in the 70's was saying the same thing when EFI started emerging, and now here we are. That's just my $.02 tho. I just want to believe that the passion for cars will endure and evolve to overcome the shortfalls of the tech.
Unless companies start putting the driver first and the experience of driving. Cars are becoming more like an appliance something to get you from point A to point B. Taking the driver out of the equation each step of the way.
The problem is that the old cars are designed and made to a standard that REQUIRES a whole lot of maintenance. Once you understand both how a new car operates and how to interrogate or modify it, they are much the same as old cars, the difference lies in parts that are not made to be worked on. Audi is making motors that need to have their crankcase separated to change the cam-belt. The sweet-spot period for car manufacture is the mid 1990's to mid 2000's - modern technologies and quality meets good modern manufacturing. But even those cars will be slowly decaying to the point maintenance just to keep running becomes too frequent.
There have always been "Appliance Cars" though. I doubt very much people are going to, en masse, start feeling nostalgic about Chevettes, Omni's, or Cutlass Ciera's just because they were made during a time that made them easy to fix. Throwaway "point A to point B" driving experiences are nothing new.
Porsche parts have always been expensive. My 1971 911T, that I bought in 1974, the dealer price for spark plugs was $10.00 each ($10.00 x 6 = $60.00) and $20.00 for an oil filter. Lots of money in 1974. I fortunately found out that the oil filter was the same Motorcraft filter my Mustangs used that at the time you could buy at Kmart for $1.00
If you want the clutch to feel ‘normal’ then remove the omega spring on the clutch arm. It will make the clutch pedal heavier but it will feel more linear in its actuation.
Hey man really like your videos my father was a auto body tech for a Volvo dealership here in Knoxville TN and took in show cars and hotrods on the side at home he and uncle Ted as I called him (an insurance adjuster for Direct Auto Insurance)even bought a used spray booth from a closed shop hmmm a body man and an insurance adjuster running a shade tree body shop on the side humm I wonder why we always drove cars that were only two or three years old that had been totaled but I always seem to have a clear title (oh the day's before carfax)anyway I've been doing what you are doing pretty much for around 15 years just not with as much capital I've had a few cool cars a Mercedes 560 sec two door coupe 560 SEL long wheel base sedan and a Volvo 780 Bertone Turbo and many others and I'm sure you probably already know but check RockAuto you could probably even get a sponsorship from them I know they're selling the AC compressor for this car new for $230 remanufactured for around 200 they didn't have the blower motor in stock though there's something that I've done when I came across expensive parts look around online maybe not in your local area but definitely in the southeastern United States there's still a lot of Armature shops places that rebuild starters alternators Staters ect. that probably could have rebuilt that electric motor which is all that blower is for around 50 bucks even if you had to ship it to them and back normally saves a lot of money one other thing when it comes to high pressure lines be it oil gas power steering fluid what have you find a place in your local area that services heavy machinery and they most of the time can make the hose to your spec for pennies compared to dealer cost and sometimes cheaper than online a lot of the auto parts chain stores can do the same but I would rather have someone who does that type of thing for a living make my part instead of some high school kids they stuck behind the counter lol anyway keep doing what you're doing enjoy the videos and if I was you I would really check into that RockAuto sponsorship
I’ve been obsessed with porsche. I had a 87, 944... now I have a 97, 986 and I just restored a 72, 2.0 914....... In short I’m a pore man haha. But the hunger will never end till I have the 911. Lol what do you do for a living? I need to do what you do hahaha. Do the work your self 🤤
Well you want mild performance upgrade. You can get the wheel bearings MicroBlue.com coated, low rolling resistance performance tires, add in nitrogen. Upgrade to Royal Purple oil in engine and trans. Then toss in a K&N air filter. No BIG HP / TORQUE but you will enjoy a nice boost of power and mpg.
I own a '86 911 Targa and guess what, the A/C does't work. But after I was getting a quote on fixing the A/C, I just decided to stick with opening the roof. Your red one looks saf!
6:58, my first car passes by on the driver's side. Hadn't seen one in a good while. Hoovie, I'm curious as to what the Euro spec bumpers look like. From what you said about parts prices its probably like $2000 for just the parts alone.
I wonder if you put a small scoop under the front bumper to force air through the front condenser and upgrade the rear condenser fan to a high speed spal fan if that would help. The condensers don't get any direct air flow, I havn't done any research. From what I have seen the front condensers can get dirty being they are on the front and faced down.
Add a tint that blocks UV and IR light like 3M Crystiline (sp?) I added a light 3M tint to my 997, and I can tell a big difference on how well it works keeping the car cool.
Hoovies - you should download "mentions" for your phone (android) that way you can find out what and where people are talking about you and your mistakes lol jk jk LOVE YOUR CHANNEL DUDE!
Try some heat and UV rejection window tint on it. It made a huge difference in my 911. You don’t even have to go very dark. It will give your AC a chance to keep up
One thing can make you forget all those little issues Big turbo Roll down the windows while you're at it and turn if not completely delete that heavy a/c😄
People massively overpay for these cars because the Porsche 911 was one of mainly 3 cars that truly defined that decade (the others being the Lamborghini Countach and the Ferrari Testarossa). The Porsche 911 happens to be the only one of those 3 that are still affordable enough that lots and lots of eighties teenagers now want one and are willing to pay a premium to own and drive one of their dream cars. That's why I bought mine.
For half of what you paid for that 911, you could have got a Terminator Mustang with twice the HP!!! And the sound of that 4.6 and the super charger, oh that sound!!!
