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Hitachi VK-C600 Vidicon Tube Camera - Winter Walk 

nowt100
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This camera had a problem with the back focus but I have now fixed this (it just needed setting up). It works quite well now although the zoom mechanism is quite stiff so you sometimes have to help the power zoom along with your hand. I plan to attempt to re-lubricate it at some point. The camera uses Hitachi's tri-electrode vidicon tube which has three separate target connections, one each for red, green and blue which means there is no need to extract the colour from a composite colour multiple signal as with other systems. It is more similar to a three tube camera in that respect.

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16 дек 2022

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Комментарии : 10   
@bbmbab3046
@bbmbab3046 Год назад
image quality is pretty good tbf
@bbmbab3046
@bbmbab3046 Год назад
how did you capture this footage? did you use composite wires?
@nowt1002
@nowt1002 Год назад
I recorded it on a vhs tape then captured it from the tape to computer through s-video using a USB capture device.
@trevorcannavo
@trevorcannavo Год назад
I love how the green is a bit off, it gives the footage a bit of extra charm. Interesting point about the tri-electrode vidicon acting like a 3 tube camera. How difficult do you think it would be to tap into those R G B signals and output them before they reach the built-in composite out? I imagine that you would also need to find the sync signal to go with the RGB signals. I've got a Pentax PC-K003A 2/3" vidicon that I am considering doing so with.
@nowt1002
@nowt1002 Год назад
It wouldn't be that difficult to get at them, you could take them from the input to the matrix circuit which produces the Y (luma) and the R-Y and B-Y signals. However, there is processing applied to the Y signal after the matrix such as aperture correction (sharpening) and automatic gain control which you wouldn't get if you used the RGB signals. You might get better quality taking the Y, R-Y and B-Y component signals from the input to the sync unit. You would have to also create a circuit to add the sync to the Y signal as in the camera it is done after combining the Y and C to form the composite video signal. This shouldn't be too complex though, it might be possible to do it with a single transistor and a couple of resistors. It might be possible to get svideo from this stage as well but the service manual for the camera is quite vague on this part of the circuit as it only gives a block diagram (or the pdf I have does anyway) so I can't tell if the C signal is exposed on the board prior to being combined with the Y though I would imagine it probably would be.
@deviantrage
@deviantrage Год назад
What would be a good place to buy working tube cameras from if I may ask? I've been quite interested in getting one for myself.
@nowt1002
@nowt1002 Год назад
I don't know to be honest. I got mine off ebay but its not really a reliable source in terms of them working. What I've generally done is bought the cheapest ones I could find on there then if they don't work and I'm not able to repair them then I've not lost much. You may be able to find ones that are tested and working but most of the time the seller only had the camera and not the vcr or power supply that's needed for the camera to work and so is unable to test it. Either that or they have just picked it up from an estate sale and don't really have any knowledge about it.
@nowt1002
@nowt1002 Год назад
Also I don't know whether you're aware but these cameras can't be used on their own. They're designed to be used with a portable vcr, the camera takes its power from the vcr's battery. There are also special power supplies that have the socket for the camera and have a/v outputs to connect to a TV or other device. This is the reason its difficult for sellers to test then because you need the support equipment not just the camera itself.
@deviantrage
@deviantrage Год назад
@@nowt1002 Ah I see. Thank you for the reply. I figured that would be the case so I'll probably do the same as you and look out for the cheapest ones and take a low risk gamble. I do know they require a portable VCR, would you have any pointers for models to look out for or avoid? Or I would assume much the same with the camera and just look for the lower cost ones to see if they will work or not.
@nowt1002
@nowt1002 Год назад
I would probably avoid earlier ones like jvc hr4100 or Panasonic nv3000. These are very heavy and use a lot of rubber belts which will need replacing before it will work. The Panasonic also has capacitors that leak and, due to how the board is constructed, the electrolyte that leaks out eats through the copper tracks. The 4100 doesn't have this problem but you might have difficulty getting the belts. The Panasonic nv180 is a good one, it came out at the end of the period these were current so is a lot lighter and doesn't use many belts (may not use any, not sure off the top of my head). The Hitachi vt6500 is a good one, although it does use belts they are still available although obviously you would need to fit them. It's the same situation with these though it's a gamble but I would say an nv180 does have a decent chance of working straight off where one of the belt drive ones is almost certain to need the belts replacing, this is par for the course with belt drive vcrs.
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