Great video. I like the way you track everything down instead of just replacing boards. Question. Do you or anyone out there know why the flip out screen on my Canon DM-GL2A Have a red screen as well as the picture? It is hard to see the picture from all the red .
It was our first video in 1980. It cost my old man a shitload of dosh. He brought 3 pirate videos home with it. Bedknobs and broomsticks.Fantasia and hallowe’en. 😂
I got a portable broadcast Sony U-matic VTR (BVU-110) that seems to have developed a drum servo issue - the tape plays at the correct speed since the audio is OK but the picture is rolling. If I hit PAUSE I get a color still frame. I know the heads are good because it played fine when I first got it. I managed to get the NTSC service manual in print form, but I'm wondering where I should start. Look at the PG signals from the drum motor? I don't think it's a video problem but it could be. But I think it's drum servo. The drum looks like it's spinning at 1800RPM though.
What scope do you have? I have an Iwatsu SS-5710 which is a pretty good scope, but I'm thinking about selling it and buying a Tektronix 2246 or similar.
@@nowt1002 Thanks. I like how it displays the volts per division and the time per division on the CRT display. I also bought a LCR T7 and it seems to work well, I took a 47uF capacitor out of an old Mitsubishi S-VHS VCR that I scrapped the boards out for soldering practice, and the capacitor measured as about 49uF on the LCR T7. Also, what temperature do you use for soldering? I am using a 600F tip now after I had issues with a 700F tip ripping solder pads.
When pointing the camera at a white wall for doing adjustments such as beam current, do I have to remove the softboxes from my two Neewer NL660 studio lights? Or will that provide enough light. I have another 60W Vivitar light that doesn't have a softbox.
Hard to say, you'll just have to try it and see I think. Most adjustments require you to set the iris so that the output waveform is a particular peak to peak voltage so if you can get that voltage without having to open the iris fully then it should be enough. With the beam current you have to open the iris fully and the light is sufficient if you can set the beam current for the correct peak to peak voltage with the waveform (it will be the output of the preamp i think) being hard clipped (flat on the top) then it's enough. For some adjustments such as ones relating to the white balance you need light of the right colour temperature.
@@nowt1002 It says to vary the iris just before beam saturation. Does that mean I just set the iris to exactly the point where if I open it up any more I'll get the green? Is that what they call beam saturation?
No you need to set the iris so that you have beam saturation and then adjust the pot so that the saturation occurs at the specified voltage. Beam saturation is where the waveform clips, ie its flattened off at the top. If you open the iris and then adjust the beam current you'll see the flat top of the waveform move up and down, you need to set it for 0.55v peak to peak according to the pal service manual, I imagine the ntsc one will be the same but check. You usually have the iris fully open for this adjustment.
@@nowt1002 So I went to do the adjustment today and it actually appears the beam current problem is gone - when I point the camera at bright lights even with the iris open all the way on standard gain there is no green. I guess it has to do with the fact my GR-C1 hasn't been powered on for at least 30 years. Could be the tube itself warming up or the capacitors. But anyways it works and I've got a working battery now so I'm all ready to upload some footage to RU-vid - haven't seen any GR-C1 footage that has been deinterlaced and upscaled to HD.
That's good. Probably the tube I would think. You get the same thing with picture tubes that haven't been used for a long time but it manifests as a dim picture. Hopefully it will be ok now.
I've recently bought the 14 inch model equivalent to yours. I need to adjust geometry pots to get games screen aligned properly. Do i need to push the tray towards me with the TV on in order to dial them?
You might need to pull the board out to get to the pots, some of them can be reached with it in place. It doesn't have many geometry adjustments, just height, width, vertical position and horizontal position I think.
I think so but I'm not 100%, it's a while since I've done it. It's not too difficult to pull it out a bit if you need to though. There's a clip at either side, you open those and pull it.
Hello, I have the JVC HR-2200U Video Cassette Recorder, and it's fully functional, I can watch tapes with no problems. The only issue is when I want to record with it. I'm using a Panasonic WV-3060 Color Video Camera, which works because I can see an image through the viewfinder and when I press the camera's trigger switch the recording starts and the tape advance. The REC and PLAY indicators are lighting, so I assume that the recording is taking place. But when I rewatch the tape to see what I recorded, nothing appears. I have no image that has been recorded or sound. Do you know what may be the problem and how to fix it? I appreciate a lot your answer.
I would check that the REC 9V is present at the collector of X2 on the chroma board and that it is getting everywhere it is meant to including the pre/rec board.
I don't see it say PAL on the VHS logo, but the head seems to be synced and the image is in colour but running at NTSC speed? EDIT: Never mind I see the PAL logo now, was the test tape recorded in SP? That VCR may only support SP and won't play it properly if those tapes are recorded on LP speed.
Hi I read the description and I don’t understand how you converted it to digital I have a jvc gz s3 with everything I believe and I was wanting to digitalize it for some recording and didn’t know how to thanks
Hi bud I’ve got the 3V16 it was playing good then just stopped playing when you press the play button it doesn’t do anything it doesn’t load the the tape even very strange any help would be great fully appreciated loved watching your video very in-depth repair
Is the cassette lamp on? A little light in the cassette compartment, it's used to detect the start and end of the tape. If it blows the machine won't do anything at all.
@@nowt1002 yes bud the cassette light is on it was playing with a bit of tracking problem at bottom of screen then it just wouldn’t do anything when I changed tapes could it be belts broken or slipped off as it was moved on a long journey before it reached me I was going to open I up and have a look ? Was going to ask if you do servicing on them I’d gladly pay and bring it to you as I really want it back to its former glory as it was my parents first video so it’s from my childhood
@@nowt1002 right I took casing off bottom and the head belt was off so put it back on and working again but the tracking is bad picture quality looks not to bad put it’s got the tracking lines at the bottom of screen no matter which way you turn the tracking knob also picture jumps a bit and when you record it’s got picture roll it’s obviously worth saving so was wondering if you could services properly for me to get it working at least so it’s watchable now that would be awesome Il pay of course 👍
Yeah definitely worth saving, they were the deluxe model at the time, better than the 3V22. It could be something simple like a bit of dirt on the tape path. I would try giving the tape path a clean and see if that improves things. You can do most of it with a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Just be careful of the heads, they are in the rectangular gaps in the upper rotating part of the head drum cylinder. Avoid those with the cotton bud as the fibres can get caught in them. If that doesn't solve the problem or if you're not confident to work on it I can have a look at it for you. You can email me nowt100video@gmail.com to discuss it.
@@nowt1002 thanks bud I really appreciate that il try the cotton bud cleaning first see if that sorts it if not il defo message you either way Il update you on situation
Hi bud I’ve got the 3V16 it was playing good then just stopped playing when you press the play button it doesn’t do anything very strange any help would be great fully appreciated loved watching your video very in-depth repair
Hi bud I’ve got the 3V16 it was playing good then just stopped playing when you press the play button it doesn’t do anything very strange any help would be great fully appreciated loved watching your video very in-depth repair
I change the C2 and C28 caps on the Chroma luma board and I have colour recording and playback now thanks to your video. My audio problem is different, recorded sound is good, but live monitored sound and playback sound both normal and hifi audio is distorted. I'm kind of suspicious of the hifi chip, what do you think?
When you say recorded sound is good, is this the camcorder's recordings played back on another machine? Or a recording from another machine played back on the camcorder?
It does suggest the chip ic4501. The audio that plays back OK on the other machine, is that the mono or the hifi? The only audio that doesn't go through that chip is the audio that goes to the mono head for recording. All audio to the outputs goes via that chip and the audio for hifi recording goes through it.
Although having said that, it could still be the supply to that chip. The audio to the mono head does interact with that supply when it goes through a transistor buffer q4505 and q4506 but it is only that once, the rest of the audios interact with it multiple times so if it's a bit poor but not as bad as mine was it could be that the mono recorded audio gets away with it but with the others it has a cumulative effect. I would rule out the supply and other caps around that area before condemning the chip.
Which is the specifications of the capacitor of the Panasonic M7 VHS camera. im trying to find the correct for repair mine, someone knows the model ???
mine is the problem that the image does not show up when recordin the image in the view finder is Very white. And in the TV when a put the VHS in thr vcr the image is very dark i need to force my eyes to see something . the audio is fine and the mecanism is a bit rusty. but it record
There's a video here that shows you how you can make up a cable so you can connect the camera to a phone via a USB capture device and use that to record instead of the vcr. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--LENmHNY2g0.html
Now I have been able to fix my Panasonic F70 VCR I have been able to validate the recordings made by my M10. I think the Chroma problem is near identical and will try your solution. However the audio problem is different, the M10 records normal and hifi audio fine so I think my problem is with the mixer circuit controlled by the switch on the back panel as normal and hifi audio are both equally effected on playback and monitoring of live sound during recording.
Amazing, I have the same camera and noticed the same issue (black and white/audio noise) I love this camera. Any chance of contact details to get it looked at? Super interesting content. And possibly my hero
Great video everything proven people like myself are buying VCR players cleaning tapes VCR belts offline now days everything proven it's getting to a point everything else have to be done off eBay and Amazon if not you are not getting VCR players cleaning tapes vhs movies and VCR belts now days only offline now days
My machine power on but immediately relay cut out from top of pcb and then power of my cassette stuck in check relay and capacitor with multimeter its beep sound shoud i change capacitor ?
Any reason why it doesn't remove the 627kHz chroma signal using a high-pass filter to remove the chroma before FM demodulation? Just studying the circuit for myself. My most recent acquisition is a Panasonic PV-2200 which is one of the first, if the not the first VHS portable made by Panasonic for the consumer market in 1979. I haven't even opened the box yet so I don't know if it works or not. It's uses a different chassis/design than the NV-3000 so hopefully it's not full of leaky caps and damaged traces. I've read that the older ones didn't suffer as bad from capacitors as the ones such as the NV-3000/PV-3000. I bought the original printed service manual on eBay for $30. However, I'm still working on the GR-C1 believe it or not as USPS lost my fuses for the mechacon board so I ordered them again. Hopefully I get refunded by the seller. I'm thinking about opening up one of my portables (either the PV-2200 or my BVU-110 broadcast U-matic portable) and just putting my scope on test points and parts of the circuit with my scope and voltmeter. I have the service manuals for both so I can see the schematic. Wondering if that would help me learn electronics and VCR signal processing.
It does remove the chroma but it uses a trap filter L3010 and C3045. Not sure why it uses this rather than a high pass as there's nothing below the chroma. Possibly for the sharp frequency response so its not rolling off any higher than necessary. Just had a look at the pv2200, you can tell its an old one one. I bey it weighs a tonne. I'm not sure what their first one was over here. The first portable vhs machine we got was the jvc hr4100 aka Ferguson 3V01. JVC machines were more common in the UK than Panasonic ones in the early days because of the deal they had with Thorn for rebadging them as Ferguson. Thorn had lots of rental and retail outlets at the time. Yeah I would say it would help looking at signals, try and follow the signals through the circuit looking at the schematic and seeing what comes up on the scope. I always look at the block diagram first to get an idea of the circuit as a whole and then cross reference that with the schematic working out which sets components correspond to which blocks. If you go straight to the schematic it can be hard to see the wood for the trees sometimes.
Saya biasa mencari keretakan pada PCB dan jalur tembaga yg sekiranya putus dengan menyorotkan lampu senter di baliknya..trik sederhana yang sangat membantu.
The free run adjustment sets the speed that the servo naturally runs at when it's not locked to anything. You need this to be correct or the servo will be fighting itself and it will struggle to lock up.
It was an old ATI All In Wonder AGP card. They do excellent quality captures but because they are AGP you need an old computer and the most recent OS the drivers work with is XP. They did do a usb version which I think works with later versions of Windows but I don't have one so can't say what they're like.
Very beautiful nostalgic shots. Those aesthetics speak to the heart. This video is why I am on the hunt for a camcorder that captures similar visuals like this, but is not too old. Wonderful video!
Great video, I remember repairing a 3V38 back in the 90's which is very similar in design. That had a strange fault, it would load the cassette but when you pressed play nothing happened apart from a single click from a solenoid, it made no attempt to lace the tape but would sit there thinking it was playing as the play LED would stay lit. I remember it took months to find the solution to the fault, I even replaced the main SYSCON IC but it turned out to be something quite simple. Now 30 years later I can't remember what it turned out to be.
You can actually fix that squaeking noise during lace up by taking the loading rings apart and re-lubricating them. I did that on an HR-D120 (3V35) and it's lacing up silently now, but it's a bit fiddly as you need to take the entire deck out of the machine.
Great channel you have here, I was a tv-video engineer from 1979 to about 1984, fantastic to see you are so comfortable working on this stuff. Keep it up.👍
Got one of these, NEC branded though. Exact same inside. Can't get it to take in tapes. As I'm sliding the tape in it won't accept it. I think you had a similar issue when you repaired one of these before. Brill video as always.
Yeah it did briefly do that but it seemed to then sort itself out. Theres a pair of leaf switches, one at either side of the cassette housing, pressed by levers which are operated by metal slid plates on the bottom of the cassette housing. Both of these switched being closed is what starts the cassette motor running to take in the tape. I would check that these are clean and closing properly. You can see them through L or J shaped slots in sides of the cassette housing (looking into the inside from the top).
Apart from the leaf switches of the cassette carriage that go bad, another common problem with these is the ICP circuit protector on the mechacon board that goes open for no apparent reason.
