It’s AWESOME being able to follow along from the beginning. Great work, great video, great voice over, and great editing! That basement is huge!!✊ And yep Lombard is the place to go 🚂🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥💵💵
In the future, anytime you have to do a curve, make yourself a jig using a piece of 1"x2" wood material. Then, create your pivot point that will forever be a pivot point, measure up the stick for your various radi and drill a hole large enough for a pencil/pen to fit through. Then you'll never have to worry about whether your string/ribbon is flexing or not and because of the thickness of the board you'll know your pencil/pen is always perpendicular to the board. Also, for your curves, don't forget to allow an easement when transitioning back to a straight-a-way or a reversing curve to help prevent derailments and track kinking. Another hot tip I've learned, 2"x2" lumber makes great legs and you can drill a hole into it, hammer a threaded nut/molly into the end and then use a bolt with a domed end as the base. This allows the wood to stay off the concrete and be height adjustable as well. I know I'm a few months late, but hopefully this will help future project and other readers. Enjoying your progress!
Check later videos. I have been using a long narrow piece of plywood to draw radii. Definitely works better than string. Don't really have a need for the bolt adjustments as the layout will be stationary. Just need to make certain things are level when installed.
I buy from MTS too but I get free shipping but you have to order $1,500 p/yr for that, but I too am curious about Lombard to see what offer they have for shipping... 🤔🤗
You did a fabulous job on your deck in record time! I'm on my 9th layout and I just go w/ a standard 2 1/2" separation on curves it seems fine for long cars. For curves I use a flexible sewing measuring tape then you can just hold your marker up against your exact 'inch' measurement and there is no stretching either. On the UPRR I know in several places and for switches there is enough room to drive vehicles between the mainlines, straight or curved when areas are rebuilt. As a UP engineer I've witnessed that in a number of places. This may be an FRA mandate mainly for the safety aspect.. Good luck, take care and Happy Birthday!! 🍧🎂🤗🚂
ON the Evanston Sub there are numerous places with 15' track centers. Of course there are also lots of places with much greater separation in centers as well as grade.
@@EvanstonSub I look forward to your progress and thankyou for mentioning Lombard hobbies, I made an order w/ them last Wed @ 8am and by 4pm it was in the hands of UPS so thxs, I like MTS too.. take care David.. 🤗
G'daye Daryl, 2 1/2 centres to 36"r, 2 1/4 over. Pulling auto racks no worries at 28 1/2 . Shoving need 30"r with walthers corners hit even at 29 1/2 when ya have string of 'em Cheers Les
I want to say yes but testing will tell. I do definitely recommend adding additional weight to all cars just so they track better. I do an ounce per 10 ft. Up to 60 feet then trim back 1/2 ounce or so over 60. But it's your railroad so that's your decision.
I used a 4foot aluminum measuring stick drilled a pivot hole at the one in mark and then drilled holes for a pencil that the radius has I wanted give it a try you might like it.
I have one yard track that is 26 1/2" and those autoracks tend to jump the rail in that curve, but on the other end of the yard, they navigate 27" turns just fine.
I've tested SXT, Walthers, and IM racks on some 24" industry tracks. SXT and IM do perfectly fine bulled or shoved, the Walthers are fine pulled, but need an upgrade to longshank couplers to be shoved (at least some of the older 'Gold Line' ones as I do not have new ones to test). So yes, 28" is plenty fine for both racks and intermodal wells/spines.
Maybe it is worth checking the middle overhang of a auto rack car on the second track with the outside overhang of a (steam) locomotive on the inner track. If you want to run a Big Boy steam excursion train for example. That would be the worst case situation... By the way: I run my Walthers passenger cars on a superelevated 579mm (22.8 inch) radius curve on the outside and my Märklin Big Boy steam locomotive on the inside 515mm (20.3 inch) curve (distance between tracks of 64mm or 2.53 inches) whitout any issues. I'm modelling the part between Cheyenne and Laramie around the 50's so your layout video's (espacially the landscaping) are very interesting to follow for me. Good luck whit the rest of the construction! Cheers from the Netherlands.
Have you considered transition curves at the beginnings/ends of the curves? They will help in both looks and overall performance of operations. You may want to invest in a set of Furniture Sliders for the "movable staging yard" legs. They will allow the yard to be moved with very little effort over any surface. The longer the train, the larger the radii needed for best performance. Yes, the manufacturers state radius xx with car type xzy, but are you running a short 2 or 3 car train? Radii, a simple rule of thumb: for prototype looks, 3.5 times the length of the longest non-articulated piece of rolling stock. For hidden areas, 2 times the length of the longest non-articulated piece of rolling stock. (Great starting point for helix radii.) For very short, non-s-curve areas, 1.75 times the length of the longest non-articulated piece of rolling stock. For most of us, ETTX auto racks at 93' 10" are the longest item we have. I do not know if the cab-to-pilot of a Big Boy is longer or not. If it is use the Big Boy's engine without the tender for the length. Double track and yard spacing: Depends on the railroad and the time frame being modeled. Like turnouts, as equipment got bigger, so did everything else. When I was part of a HO club, we decided on 2-7/8" centers for all hidden yard tracks. Wide enough to let everything pass each other no matter the radii, and get fingers onto equipment as needed. Spacing on the mainline was pre-set to 2", and 2-3/8" on the curves, but as the track was laid it was spaced tighter/looser as needed based on two sets of two long cars passing so it both looked and operated well.
Hei, Daryl! Thanks, Thomas, for asking about transition curves (easements). Should superelevation be considered, or is it not a problem in staging yards where train speeds will be fairly slow? Thanks.
You can still redesign this S curve staging yard with larger radius curves at the top of the track plan shown using a 45 angle through the partition under the stairs. Your auto racks will then have a better time of it on the several right side tracks.
My bell was turned off? You could hedge used rolling caster wheels with locks for your staging yard. If I would have known that you were selling, I would have bought like 3 or 4 complete unit well car trains from you!
I did 24 inch radius curves with a 2 inch center and my auto racks rub on my other trains If I were to do it again I would do it at 2 1/2 inch centers also I have a switch back in my layout that is 60 inches wide and if I do not have a helper locomotive in the middle I will Derail my auto racks
Do you still have the signals used on your N scale layout at Rochelle? I am making my own version of rochelle here in uk and wondered if those signals were still available before i go getting some made?
I learned that when laying multiple tracks on a curve to outline center of first (inside) track first then lay or outline each following track toward the outside of the curve. You did it opposite of this idea. Also how fat are your fingers? You should include clearance for your hands in case of derails or other issues you may encounter and have to handle cars there.
My layout has 32- and slightly over 34-inch radius curves on the corner sections. I've run Walthers, Accurail, and Atlas autoracks on both tracks with no issues. I've even had one train of all Walthers autoracks that went around the entire layout on the inside main (32-inch curves) with the locomotives only about six inches from the back of the caboose. This is the second longest train I've run: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EkFBuuIqpi8.html
Very nice so far! Just an opinion from my experience unless its old walther's (pre 2000s) there rolling stock sucks the trucks and weight of cars are terrible all my walthers cars have problems where all my others don't all there cars cars and locos are also very under detailed
