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Hobby Cheating 174 - How to Speed Paint Squigs to a High Quality 

Vince Venturella
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In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through a simple method of painting Squigs to a high quality fast. Your Gitz army has lots of squigs, let's get them on the table and looking good! Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
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Email: WarhammerWeeklyQuestions@gmail.com
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8 фев 2019

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Комментарии : 71   
@bentosan
@bentosan 5 лет назад
Thanks Vince the info about the complementary colours I find particularly useful
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
@Mikey__R
@Mikey__R 5 лет назад
Hey Vince. I'd like to expand a little on my question from todays Q&A. You're right in that Macca has indeed triggered a lot of discussion around painting styles. GW has the two styles, either Eavy Metal or FW, and these are two styles that developed over the last 30 years. There are many other styles though, and it does seem that at the moment the super high contrast styles are the only ones that get promoted; Golden Demon and Crystal Brush tend to favour these highly fantastical styles. I think maybe your subscribers might be interested to hear your take on the various other ways to paint, and at least finding out that there are other options. When I painted my first Imperial Guard tank, I was totally unaware that there were diffrerent styles, and I inadvertantly mixed styles together. I tried putting stark edge highlighting next to grunge and engine grease, and no surprises that it looked ridiculous. I value your opinions, and I'd love to hear your contribution to the discussion!
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
It's a good idea, maybe a Vince talks about painting styles Hobby Cheating. Could be a cool video for sure.
@Mikey__R
@Mikey__R 5 лет назад
@@VinceVenturella could I just add - when I was painting that first tank, I didn't realise that highlighting every edge wasn't mandatory. I didn't realise that in the style I was subconsciously aiming for, highlighting every edge was inappropriate. I think beginners might benefit from understanding that some techniques are valid in some contexts, but unsuitable for others.
@oainger
@oainger 5 лет назад
Vince, these videos are amazing... Wish I found them sooner when I started the hobby about 6 months ago, I'm learning and improving so much now. Keep up the amazing work.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
@w1reman
@w1reman 5 лет назад
Although you've touched on it in the past, it would be cool to see a video focusing on undershading using complimentary colour glazing, across a range of models/surfaces. Which combinations work best on which sorts of surfaces (skin, cloth, metals etc) Places you'd avoid this technique.....and so on.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Yep, I have touched on this a lot, but it might be time to just do a comprehensive guide to undershading.
@Stardog081
@Stardog081 2 года назад
You are such a great model painter and artist. Everytime I watch your content I get blowed away. Thanks for this. Started a Gitz army and am ready to gitz it.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 2 года назад
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
@callum5257
@callum5257 5 лет назад
As always, well presented. Great stuff
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Thank you, much appreciated as always.
@darthbretticus9951
@darthbretticus9951 5 лет назад
He's ready to go eat his enemies ra ra ra that part cracked me up 😁
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
My video of monster sounds is coming soon. :)
@jetsetjimbo8049
@jetsetjimbo8049 5 лет назад
Another great insight into getting great results quickly. One of your dog's was having a proper chobble in the background! :)
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Yes, it seems that if I need to record a video, they just feel it's time to play. :)
@Sunodasuto
@Sunodasuto 2 года назад
Great video, I especially like how vibrant the squig skin becomes after the Bloodletter glaze. Now that Bloodletter has been discontinued, what alternative can I use?
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 2 года назад
Transparent Red from Pro Acryl, Contrast Red, Vallejo Red Ink.
@skull9674
@skull9674 3 года назад
Amazing what a great idea.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 3 года назад
Thank you! 😊
@pseudonymeantipersonnelle2190
@pseudonymeantipersonnelle2190 5 лет назад
M’y only comment would be that you should make an entire video on voicing different units 😬
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Just a whole video of Grrr...arrghh noises. ;)
@tomnowicki1408
@tomnowicki1408 Год назад
i ve learned squiggies love their drybrushin 🤣
@jsseehorn
@jsseehorn 5 лет назад
Nice he looks great and I'm getting ready to paint some squigs so awesome timing! Any tips on cave style basing? I've seen you do worked stone and concrete but don't recall anything cave related. I can do the paint but I cant decide on a good way to get a cave floor texture that reads right.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Sounds like a great idea for a video, and it would work for Skaven as well.
@gaijin_lfc
@gaijin_lfc 5 лет назад
Nice. I like how the red glaze goes on over the wash, rather than washing over red, which dulls out the color. I’d like to try this method on my bloodletters.
@Mikey__R
@Mikey__R 5 лет назад
I'm still struggling with making nice reds! Any trick I can try out would be well received!
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
My favorite 3 reds are the Red Glaze from Warcolours, Red Ink from Vallejo and Mayhem red from Scale 75. I love this technique for Bloodletters as well. :)
@gaijin_lfc
@gaijin_lfc 5 лет назад
Vince Venturella my recent favorite red is Heraldic Red, from Reaper Bones. I think you’d like it, it’s *pure* red, thins to a perfectly even glaze, and has good coverage as a base layer too
@Demonprinz1
@Demonprinz1 5 лет назад
Hi, While thinking about levels of saturation on a mini I wondered how would you aproach something that should resemble a black and white colourscheme (maybe like the Scale 75 Laurel and Hardy Bust although they are more sepia(-ish) than real black and white). Would that be an idea for an future video? As always a big thank you for your effeort bringing us every week a new awesome video!
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Old black a white televisions used to have a little sepia in it, which is what think the painter of the laurel and hardy were trying to replicate. True black and white painting (like if you are trying to replicate an old black and white television) is a really fun challenge because you have to work really hard in the grey tones. I will see what I can do and add it to the list.
@AlexFaguy
@AlexFaguy 6 месяцев назад
Very helpful! Quick question: coule you simply airbrush your yellow and red glaze? For the green wash/shade, I feel airbrushing leaves less wash in the recesses.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 6 месяцев назад
Yes you can!
@Erikjust
@Erikjust 5 лет назад
Question instead of the usual black and white spray and a green wash, could you adapt the goblin tutorial and do a dark green spray, then a bone spray and finally a the drybrush with pale sand and then go straight to the red glaze or would the result be a bit too dark for it to look natural?
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Nope, I think that would work as well. The reality is, there are many roads that will all lead you to the same destination. :)
@naphaneal
@naphaneal 5 лет назад
@complementary colours: i know, red and green result in brown. is that what you mean by desaturating red? using the green to make the shaded parts be more at the brown spectrum and have it appear as a darker red? @technique: tried that with a testmodel of mine an army painter red. did not turn out as expected. I'm either doing it wrong or the Army Painter paints are not made for this kind of mini painting... @squig: you touched the squig's nose with the brush, when painting the eyeballs. there's a white spot @11:46 near the eyesocket and the nose root.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Yes, this is what I mean by desaturating the red. It pushes it more toward the middle (brown or grey). It could very well be the army painter red isn't suited for this. My advice would be pick up a good red ink and thin it out. As to the extra white spot, it happens, best not to sweat the details with speed painting. :)
@TheAzeton
@TheAzeton 5 лет назад
Great video as always, Vince! What undershade would work better for skintones and bone colors? Namely I want to paint Godsworn Hunt but can't decide which variant will be better: 1) standard zenithal with some wash that is better suited for skin undershade; 2) same thing but also with some color shot underneath (green, red, brown, purple?); 3) warm zenithal with brounish wash; 4) some other variant that person without color theory knowledge (me) doesn't understand.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
So the reality is, most of any of those would work and all produce different kinds of results. Skin is so wonderful because it has a rich set of colors. Verdaccio is a classic example, you laid down a base of green to act as a complimentary for the pink skin tone. But that is far from the only way it was done. SOme used black and white pure to start and then laid in various colors from crimson, purple and caucasian skin tones with additional yellows and white. I say all that to say simply that you can do many things. My personal favorite is to use a standard zenithal but use a little deep green from below, then lay down red/pink/skin tones over top.
@TheAzeton
@TheAzeton 5 лет назад
@@VinceVenturella Thank you, Vince!
@johncleave
@johncleave 5 лет назад
Hi Vince, any chance you're planning to do a speed painting Skaven video? Although I guess it's probably not much different to your army speed painting video so could be redundant.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
I am going to do a couple of Skaven videos, but I will say yes, the techniques in previous videos will serve you will here, especially a drybrush, wash, light dry brush technique.
@Erikjust
@Erikjust 5 лет назад
Question lets say that instead midday my goblins and Squigs are fighting at midnight and instead of the sun its the full moon and the stars that is lighting the battlefield. would you use the same colors as here or perhaps maybe do a final glaze of blue or something like that?
@Demonprinz1
@Demonprinz1 5 лет назад
Erikjust I‘d recommend you read this article here: massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2015/03/theory-thursday-3-all-cats-are-grey-at.html (in case the link doesn‘t work look for „all cats are grey at night“ from massive voodoo) Basicly you‘d desaturate your yellows reds extremly the greens fairly and the blues you use somewhat. Plus if the moon should be really a bright full moon you could add some cold (aka blueish) grey or white to the highlights I think.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
That article is a good one. Generally, it's very hard to sell "moonlit" armies, because that just isn't where we are perceiving them. That is to say, our armies are usually mainly lit from above in gaming halls with largely yellow lights. So when we try late night or other types of schemes, it can be definitely be a clash. That being said, it's a great resource for when you control the lighting more completely, such as with a diorama or competition piece.
@ardyer3
@ardyer3 5 лет назад
Do you have a link to the other video you mentioned? You've got a lot and several of the titles look like they could be the one mentioned (one undercoating red with green).
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Sure, it's this video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e1OdliZ6tB8.html But I discuss undershading a lot, so many of the videos often discuss parts of it.
@jonathanboard8317
@jonathanboard8317 5 лет назад
Thanks Vince. Awesome video. It looks like you start with your standard zenithal highlight, is there a reason you didn't start with warm zenithal highlight (HC#123) and would that change the rest of the undershading process (i.e. green wash, yellow glaze)?
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Sure, in this case, I did a little bit of a mix, because my white, which was quite dominant, was actually ivory and a fairly yellow white (though I still increased that). I basically just wanted to keep the brown tones out in this case and make them more consistently red - using the complimentary color to create highly desaturated reds instead of true browns. The reality is, you could do it either way and that would be fine. :)
@jonathanboard8317
@jonathanboard8317 5 лет назад
@@VinceVenturella If I wanted to adapt this guide for Blue Squigs using HC#66 as a guide, would a wash of GW Carroburg Crimson work to desaturate Warcolours Blue Glaze? I'm thinking Zenithal (Panzer Grey, Cold Grey, Pale Sand), Drybrush (Pale Sands), Wash (Carroburg Crimson), Glaze (Lamenters Yellow), Glaze (Warcolours Blue), Drybrush (Pale Sand), Glaze (Guilleman Blue). Does Warcolours Blue work well with GW Guilleman Blue in the same way as the reds you use?
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
@@jonathanboard8317 Honestly, I think that would work amazingly well. I love those colors and I think everything there would work together awesome (you would get very rich purple shadows). Love it.
@jonathanboard8317
@jonathanboard8317 5 лет назад
@@VinceVenturella Great! Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. It is hugely appreciated.
@davidbates7279
@davidbates7279 5 лет назад
Hey Vince, about to get a big shipment of khorne daemons and will have lots of red to paint. Any tips on how to get a rich deep crimson colour? Not quite as vibrant but just slightly more towards the dark red/crimson/maroon spectrum?
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
So my advice would be do the same process as here (you could alternate that instead of green, use a deep purple wash) and use a crimson color like Bloodfest Crimson from Scale 75.
@davidbates7279
@davidbates7279 5 лет назад
@@VinceVenturella thanks legend!
@Mikey__R
@Mikey__R 5 лет назад
Hey Vince. If you've got to paint a whole load of these fellas, why not do the bulk of them red entirely using the airbrush, much the same way as you did your Tzangores? You often talk about how much faster an airbrush can be, this seems like an ideal time to use it, since all of these colours can be airbrushed really quickly.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
I normally would, but when I do these things with an airbrush, people don't like them as much because not everyone has an airbrush. :) - That being said, yes, I would do the rest of this group with an airbrush. :)
@Mikey__R
@Mikey__R 5 лет назад
@@VinceVenturella tough crowd!
@Critical677
@Critical677 5 лет назад
The squig looks hungry...I like it. :) Question: Why didn't you use the warm zenithal highlighting for the squig? Thank you as always!
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
IN this case, using the standard zenithal was more in line with what people would be doing naturally in a traditional zenithal and it seemed reasonable to start from that as opposed to needing to get them priming differently and then all the rest of this new stuff. that being said, I did push to more ivory instead of dead white.
@Critical677
@Critical677 5 лет назад
@@VinceVenturella okay so warm zenithal would be a good starting point too I guess.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
@@Critical677 Yep, absolutely.
@Critical677
@Critical677 5 лет назад
Thank you! :)
@Wijkert
@Wijkert 2 года назад
If paints like the glazes from Citadel are OOP, do you preserve them just in case, or to do tend to use them until the pot is empty? I feel like you are the kind of person that would just use them whenever it feels like the right paint to you, but on the other hand you are also a content creator and OOP paints might come in handy someday.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 2 года назад
Yep, I have a bunch of them preserved. :)
@rowandecker8473
@rowandecker8473 5 лет назад
So a magenta squig herd would require a brighter green as the undershade, correct? Would you still use lamenters yellow and pale sand for the other steps? Sorry, I'm a noob with colour theory.
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
For Magenta, you could use either a Dark Blue to get purple undershade, or a dark teal to math what I do here with green. Something like the yellow and pale sand would still be good for Magenta. Magenta is magic because it can be warm or cold.
@rowandecker8473
@rowandecker8473 5 лет назад
Thank you, Sempai!
@shitstormbringer
@shitstormbringer 5 лет назад
thanks!!!
@VinceVenturella
@VinceVenturella 5 лет назад
Happy to help as always. :)
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