I use an ultrasound cleaner to clean. After a good hard rinse in hot water. I have found that for the Large primers. About 50% fall out on their own and no additional work is needed other then sorting them out from the cups. I then give the rest a good hard shake for about 3 minutes and that separates about 75% of the remaining primers. Then I use a process similar to yours to remove the rest. However I have found that about 80% of those remaining are the ones that aren’t worth removing and throw away just like the ones you toss as well. (I actually melt them down with all the bad brass that I can’t reload for some reason)
One of the tips (I haven't gotten to the tutorial) is to keep any "springy-ness" out of your probe. The HF dental pick works - but only when it's about 3/16" in length. Otherwise the anvil will rocket/spring to the ceiling. See: www.aardvarkreloading.com/primers.html Look for Pt 3 (de-anvil) for newer suggested tools and techniques. The right tools make this step a cakewalk.
Great video Mark. You are right about the "Bible". I had the older version from 2014 that I was using. Also another great way to separate the anvils from the cup is to place them into a plastic storage bowl wit a screw-on lid after washing them as instructed. Then I just shake the bowl vigorously for several minutes. You would be surprised at how many of those little buggers will separate. I do that about three times with about 500 to 700 primers in there. I get roughly 75% of them to come apart. The rest I do the old fashioned way. Works for me.
That's a great idea. Like a mayonaise, peanut butter jar right? What did you use specifically? You know those Gallon jugs for Arizona Ice Tea (or Arnold Palmer 1/2 n 1/2 is the best). Those jugs have a handle and you could probably shake the devil out of them and not let jar go flyin'. Has this happened?! Ha! I wonder what would happen if you put a few steel ball-bearings in there. Any vid to share? 75% is awesome. You are onto something.
@@helpmenowmark I used a small (less than a quart) plastic tupper-ware type container with a (screw on) lid. The lid is important so that IF you drop, the primers wont go flying out. The worst part is when you dump them on white paper and then get the tweezers out to separate the anvils from the cups. LOL But it sure does beat trying pick those little things out of there with a dental pick. Until you have to. I think if I would do more of the shaking, I could get more than 75% separated. You know the old saying "Give a lazy man a job and he will find the easiest way to do it." That's me.
I am thinking about combining your idea with the colander... What If you cut out the bottom of the colander (since it has exactly right sized slots) and/or a 3D prined sloted cap. Again refering to Arnold Palmer jug with slotted cap. Shake primers til they break loose - then occassionally tip over the jug WITH the filter cap still on. In theory only the anvils come out of the jug. I need to repair my 3D printer! Well done Micheal.
@@helpmenowmark Never thought about that. That is a great idea. I am going to look at maybe cutting some slots into the lid of another plastic container and hot glue a threaded on the first lid and have lid for the other collar. This way as I shake the container the anvils be theory should fall through cracks so to speak and into the secondary collar. When I am done shaking the container I just unscrew the secondary lid and they should be there smiling at me..LOL Worth a try. I'll let you know how that works out. I just de-primed about 300 9mm casings the other night so i need to build this contraption and try it out.
You guys have been so kind with your comments. It's such as technical (and small) subject but I am past worrying about those that just want to throw tomatoes. We think it's important info to share. More soon (working on next video "as we speak") Almost 3 a.m. - yep... it's important).
Thanks Partner! We are 800 members strong at this group. You'll find myself and the author of the manual (Homemade Primer Course) as members at mewe.com/join/primerreloading
22 LR is a bit more involved but you use EPH 0 (not EPH 20) for rimfire. EPH 0 and EPH 20 are Very similar. EPH 0 merely lacks the gunpowder (NC) found in EPH 20.
