Super helpful... I replaced all the capacitors on my ecu first and had the same no fuel pump priming/solid cel. Went and hit it with a heat gun and it primed and started. Just ordered that Ic17 chip and hoping that is the issue.
@@haggardsoul1Hi, did you manage to solve the problem? I have the same symptoms, it takes a long time to arm the bomb, and when it does it's only when it wants to.
You may have saved my marriage. I tried for WEEKS to solve this problem on my wife's Del Sol. Even had it towed to a Honda specialty shop. Tried this heat gun trick and it fired right up. I can't thank you enough for helping me diagnose this intermittent problem.
So happy this worked for you! Just send the ECU to someone like Jason Waters Tuning and have it rebuilt with new parts and it should be good for many more years
I know this post is 2 years old but thank the good Lord for this. I have been going nuts trying to figure out what was going in with my 93 del sol. This was the problem 100%. Thank you!
It really works all I did was change out the ecu cause I had a extra one laying around and plugged it and it got fuel and it started this guy is awesome thanks for ur help Man
Thanks man, Had a no start issue with my 93 Integra. Solid CEL no fuel pump prime. Changed the main relay but issue persisted. Tried this out and it started right up. Thanks!
It worked on my civic esi.I have to replaced five capacitors coz it visibly leaked and injector pulse was there after replacing the capacitors especially the 220 microfarad.After sometime ,the positive supplying the fuel pump failed.Not sure wether my main relay failed.Tapped a positive line from the ignition switch line and connected to the main relay bypassing it and fuel pump worked but check engine light is there to stay.Im using the car and waiting for a new main relay.IC 17 is really controlling the fuel pump and injector pulse.Thanks Barry!!!
thanks for the info. bro. it fixed my 93 civic...its still going strong with 410,350 miles on it ..lol , original California car, been in Michigan since 2006.
If I could kiss you I would. Could not figure out why my car wouldn't start had all the same issues. My car sat in the garage for almost a year. I came across your video and I tried it and it worked. Bought a used computer from eBay and it's been running flawlessly. Thank you
Thank you for your quick response. I have a bit of an issue... i can't find the main micro relay for my Honda jazz 2006 in my area. What do you remember i use instead ? Thnx
Something told me it’s had to do with something when it gets to cold… I just finished a b20 swap in my wago and used a p28 and all summer it was good but as it’s gotten colder I’ve found this happening more and more… dude… thank you for this video..🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
man oh man !!! I mean YEARS !!! wondering what the exact issue was with my 95 civic. I tied it more to humidity then cold though. Sunny cold low humidity day will start right up, as the humidity goes up, regardless of temp, so too does the wait for the check engine light to go out could be 5,10,20 minutes. Even guys who specialize in Honda's seemed clueless.
Mine just started doing this after sitting in the rain and it’s Arizona so it rarely rains, eventually I get it to prime but I’m guessing a new ECU would fix this??? Anyone?
@@joegarfias8993 Hey Joe, I had taken the panel off the pass. side floorboard, to get to the ECU. I started driving around without the panel on and for whatever reason ( simply more air flow ??) I've not had an issue since. It can be storming and it starts right up. I was dumbfounded. It's been 2 years and no problem >
My 95 del sol does this, sometimes it be 30 seconds or up to five minutes, I have multiple relays ive tried and they all working, checked wiring and everything between, ecu was my last resort, ima pull my ecu outta my other del sol and see if that helps thanks for video man
@@Mario-et3tp very possible, if you leave the key on foe a while it might heat up the ECU enough to start, that’s how I started to figure things out and narrowed things down
I think I’m in the same position you were, I’ve ensured that the issue isn’t the relay, or the pump itself, is there anything else I should check before trying this?
If you are comfortable using a Haynes manual and a volt meter you can verify where the voltage stops or just isn’t there.... the output that controls the fuel pump rest at 12 volts if my memory serves correct
So I can just put a new IC17 chip in and reprogram it and it will be fine? Or do I have to buy a whole new ECU? I have this problem with mine and your video helped a lot
@@barryc1635 thank you, so once you replace it you never had a problem with it? And how did you figure it out? The whole time I thought it was my fuel pump and then I found this video and it really helped
Riley Miller I just kept researching and did a lot of testing on wiring and voltage outputs, between that and a few calls I was able to narrow down the issue. No issues since
@@barryc1635 so I just went to the shop to see what they would say about it and the mechanic said it’s not removable and I’ll have to buy a new ecu, how did you get your chip out? Was yours removable? Should I just try a different shop?
I replaced the fuel pump and the main relay and I still don’t have any fuel pressure. It’s summer right now and currently 85 degrees and humid as hell outside. I haven’t used a heat gun yet but do you think it would work in my case
Spay a little starter fluid into the intake and see if it try’s crank. If it does that means the main relay and the rest of that wiring is probably ok and the problem would more than likely be the IC17 issue
@@barryc1635 thank you for the fast reply. I’m going to try that tomorrow it’s getting late over here but if I does start up from the starter fluid I should try replacing that fuse or relay that is on the ecu?
@@mickeyyy7571 if it does start that means the rest of the ignition system is working, the same fuse normally controls everything related to the relay and injectors. IC17 inside the ECU only controls the fuel pump
Can I just replace the computer I’m having the same issue on a 92 eg that I bought . I replaced the fuel pump today and I’m still having this issue the fuel pump comes on when it wants too ???
I know this is a older one of your videos , But Hopefully you check this , Maybe you can give me a idea , Ok so my civic isnt getting fuel from pump to rail , I should start off by saying I been building the car from barely a shell to a complete car as well as a fully built motor , Now.2 yrs ago it started everytime timing was just off ...Fixed that an I ended up landing a long hour career so it sat untouched the past two years . Well recently have the time now to finish small odds an ends .. Buddy thru a base map on my ecu, Well tries to start up but just wont , I got spark , timing but no pressure on fpr an no fuel to fuel rail BUT when turning key to on pos the pump primes ..I cant figure out wth it could be ...when spraying starter fluid in throttle starts for half a second an then tries to crank again but no go , Iv gotten ppl sayn fuel pump but it primes , fpr , dizzy , timing . or the fuel has gelled up in the tank an lines an they are clogged . . Any help would be very much appreciated as years of building an tons or labor an money went into this build an all I wana do is drive the thing lol... Ps sorry for such a long questiom
I’ve seen cars that sat for a while have bad fuel filters, that would be the first thing I would replace. Are you hearing your fuel pump prime? If so the filter most likely could be the problem. You can also pinch off the return fuel line and see if you get fuel pressure, I’ve seen fuel regulators fail as well
so my fuel pump primes. it turns over for a bit, then cranks up, starts, then after ab 2 seconds, it shuts off, then if i keep cranking it itll turn back on then shut off and keeps going. ive been fighting for a long time, idk what to do and i need help. it idled like it had a 5.0 cam in it
Hello, I have same problem, sometimes I could start 30x times, and sometimes 30x no start when I turn key on, and now when I turn key on engine control still light, but fuel pump no pressure, so where is the problem, is it in ecu and what is ic 17?
Anyone have this issue in a DA I’m having a hell of a time, replaced the whole fuel system besides the lines, new fresh b20b swap, obd1 distributor obd2 injectors can’t figure out what’s going on
@@barryc1635 so I’ve checked spark fuel and replaced the main relay today and now it’s clicking 4times compared to the old one which only clicked 3 (no click on crank) and it’s still doing the same symptom, didn’t help that I have the dash and cluster out rn but I’m gonna spend some time tomorrow when I get off the clock and voltage check all the circuts.
this seems to match almost identically the issues my accord is experiencing. two questions tho. 1)did you ever experience any random stalls 2)do you remember any occasion. of finding your battery low without obvious cause? iv lived with the slow fuel prime problem a long while. few weeks back battery was low for no obvious reason. only 2 small trips after that it stalls out while warming up and then began to resist starting progressively more until it justvdidnt even sound like it was close, just crank crank crank. also when releasing the key from start position it sometimes would sound like the relays clicked again and occasionaly the tach would jump turning the key back to acc. also the car would make a grumble like it was trying to turn over even though wasnt touching the key. sorry for such a big amount of text to read but would appreciate any input you may have as this is the closest description of my own problems iv found despite weeks of forum searching and my own diagnostic with the service manual.
I did have it stall, but only after I first started up every once in a while. Since I replaced IC17 I have not had a problem since. I don’t recall having battery issues. It does sound like a ECU issue though. I sent my ECU off and had it refreshed to help cure future issues as well.
Hii i have the same problem. I've changed IC17 it worked good the first day. But the other morning i still have the same old problem. Do you know what the problem can be?
Your car is OBD2, the ECU in mine is OBD1And is different than yours. I’ve unfortunately not had to ever trouble shoot the issue your having and won’t be able to help
Let me ask you couple of questions. How do I know which model my car is? Like if it is EG things like that. I have a 1995 civic coupe ex 1.6 manual transmission. Now couple of weeks ago it started with starting issues. I first thought it was the starter, I replaced it and it started well for a day, went down again. I replaced the fuel filter, and fired up, then die again. So my next step was replacing the pump, which solved the problem for a day and it went back to not starting again. Now will the heating up thing help solve the problem? Or should I get a new ECU?? Thank you for your help.
@@barryc1635 Hi Barry, thank you for the tips. Here’s my situation I heated up the ecu and my car started right away. It was working fine yesterday since it was hot, but after seated all night this morning it didn’t start again. The engine light doesn’t go off like it used when you say the pump primes. What should I do? Resold the ic37 or get a new ecu? What’s easiest? And if I had to buy that little black thing the 37, where do I get it and what is it called? Thank you very much again for your time and reply.
@@ricardosom7766 I would recommend contacting JasonWatersTuning to get that ECU completely serviced. It will probably cost 150-250 I’m guessing, but it will get it back to like new condition. The Main Relay is the other part in the driver kick panel about the hood release
@@barryc1635 hi Barry, just wanted to thank you for the help and advice with my car issue. I contacted waters he was going to charge me $150 to repair the ecu. Then I found out I could buy the capacitor kit which I did. Y solder 5 news one un my car is working just perfect. Thank you again, god bless.
Bro, I’m having this god damn issue for a Year now. The Car turns on without any problem for like 2 months, and then for no reason the issue returns. Yesturday i got this issue again, it was damn hot here, 30°C+
Borrow a ECU and see if it will prime your car, You don’t even have to crank it ( i case you have a custom tune). But if it primes fine with another ECU you probably have this issue
Unfortunately as soon as I shut the car off I had to reheat the ECU, but atleast the battery got recharged and I can move it around. Getting a new ecu soon I hope. They're gettin rare to find
I had Eric Jarvis do alot of my work.. he reccomends I just get a new ecu. Mine has already been fixed once before. So most likely it wont last long. I can just put my chip in the new ecu and be done.
@@barryc1635 yeah idk what it is, this is the 2nd ecu I’ve purchased and still have no prime ti the fuel pump and ecu stays on. Changed the fuel pump main relay checked all fuses and now idk where to begin car cranks but doesn’t start I know that I should hear the fuel pump prime and ecu used to shut off on accessories key turn. Man so frustrating
