I was thinking that the rivets might have expanded too much to fit in the hole. But I was wrong lol. Awesome work Jordon and good point on the cooling factor.
Hi - I found your video searching for footage for an article on hot riveting I'm writing for Engineers Australia students. Great work but some suggestions. Rivet holes need a little clearance as a hot rivet is slightly larger than a cold rivet. Drive more practice rivets and then cut your results down the rivet axis to show you filled the hole completely - First deformation of the rivet fills the hole, and then the head forms (This is a problem if you wedge a difficult rivet in position and then heat second). Your choice is rivet tongs is OK, but blacksmith tongs or multigrips do better. For small scale jobs like yours, cook your rivet in the frog of an ordinary house brick. Heat the brick first and wear good eye protection. Heat the rivet on the brick and not held with the tongs. Firebricks are better - See your local wood fire maker. Grip the rivet head and not the shank - Very important on small rivets like yours. Rivet passing must be quick and hot rivet must go quickly into its hole. You really must have a heavier dolly - Yours is too light. I'd look for a bar say 2" diameter by minimum 14" long. Also, long sleeves and long pants please as hot black flakes burn and distract. Think about a contrivance to wedge into tight holes where there are problem flanges and back up outside with a heavy dolly held on the flange outside. In the US, our holder upperer is called a "bucker". Suggest a large oxy welding tip will concentrate heat better on small rivet shanks. Oxy cutting tip is too general. Your driving is good, but the gun is a bit light. When rivet is cold, place your finger on both rivet and job - Then tap the rivet with a light hammer and feel for any looseness - If loose, cut out and try again as you don't want loose chassis rivets. Well done though, especially in an era when all of the old riveters have passed on.
Thank you Andy for the great information. Means a great deal. During the process of trying them a did cut a couple down the centre to see what they looked like. To my surprise they are really well formed. But definitely some awesome info here I’ve taken a lot from!
Suggestion: When you want two surfaces to match each other perfectly and their relevant dimensions are already close to each other, you can just lap them together, same way you'd hand lap intake and exhaust valves back in the day. Mount your riveting tool in the lathe chuck, put a rivet in the tailstock, add lapping compound, turn lathe on, and lap away. You'll probably go through a handful of rivets because the rivet head will also change dimension to match the tool, so swapping in a new one now and then will ensure the tool is what's changing. Cheers from the middle of America, mate. Love your channel, keep up the good work. 🙂
Your video was riveting. It took me back to movie cartoon days where the riveter’s helper would yell: “HOOOT RIIIVET!!!” Then they would sling it with tongs to the riveter who would catch it in a funnel shaped scoop. That detail is not only fitting and pleasing but much safer and reliable than the alternatives. I wish I had something to rivet, lol.
It's coming along nicely guys. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. God Bless.
Love the look and strength of the hot rivets. Appears to be very beefy and I'm sure you shouldn't need to add any welding. In fact you may not want to do so from a properties stand point as the weld may constrict the expansion and contraction inherent to riveting resulting in a fracture. Just a thought.
Fantastic. Between you, Karl (Make it Kustom) and Iron Trap Garage, I am awed by the exposition, skill and ingenuity shared when it comes to building these amazing machines! Thank you and Go Bennetts Customs! Keep moving forward!
Great episode, take a look at the film of how they built the Sydney Harbour Bridge, it was a 2-man operation to do 1 rivet. Can't wait to see more Jordan.
Not a bad effort Jordan getting those rivets in mostly on your own and definitely worth a beer or two at the end, those air chisels can be very versatile by making custom anvils to suit the application and the chassis looks A1 now. Will be looking forward to the next stage Cheers Greg
Great to see the process. Love the channel. Gets me hyped to work on my own project without rules or following the conventional restoration line. Way more interesting. Wish I could come lend a hand and drink a beer.
If you had the head of a drill ground on a Monoset grinder to the radius of the rivet head, on your driver and buck, once hardened, they would work beautifully, with no imperfections. Once this machine is setup, you could have several bits made for economy. Keep up the good work!
Great work Jordan. Reminds me of when i did extensions on truck chassis as a 16yr old apprentice. We use a portable horse shoe forge to keep all the rivets hot so you could work quickly.
It's a hot day sweaty day hot riveting. Awesome job doing it alone. Red hot steel will burn through the body like butter so PPE is important... leather is your friend. 3 man team is great 1 guy has the gun, 1 guy has the bucking bar and one guy handles the rivets and is on safety watch. Mini forge can be made using a BBQ with a hair dryer and ducting made from metal tubing or even tin foil. Steel rivets like that I'd expect a bucking bar minimum of 3 Lbs. Larger rivet gun too... At least 1/2 inch shank. Rivet should stick out 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet for a plain flat head for a universal head it would be longer like 2D. Thank you for the video. I appreciate you please don't hurt yourself but have fun.
Great job!! I have a 32 frame in the shop now to rivet the front crossmember in so this was timely for me. The instructions that came with the rivets said the same 1 1/2 times the thickness.
Rivet technique is available in aircraft sheet metal books. With steel hot rivets just upsize equipment and add the heat component. You need much heavier bucking bar and welding on a rivet set will eventually fail because it's tool steel
Really enjoyed that, Jordan! I've never seen hot riveting before. That had to be a two-man job, so I was amazed. Oh, I think you had Henry inspiring you to do well! :) Anyway, thanks lots for the video and best wishes Jordan!
Great results Jordan. An old art for sure . need a small blacksmith forge for the rivets I think if you were going to be doing this all the time or one of those induction coil tools to put over the rivets.
Very enjoyable watch. I share all your vids with my eldest grandson Liam. We was on the path of getting him a model A chassis. (He’s 15) till his mums daily took a dump. So the funds had to be diverted to that but we will get there soon. I’m sure Jordan we will be using some of your techniques. Thanks keep them coming.Tim.
We live in the midlands England. So I’m sure when we get the funds back together we will get a frame. He wants to do body and paint as a career. So it’s all a learning curve for him.cheers.
Another trick is to get the head very hot and pound it over an actual rivet. That would give you a perfect fitting shape on both sides (pieces) Watch how they built the steel structures when riveting was the only way. They would throw a rivet from ground to 3-4 stores up and buck them into a column!
You could use a cold rivet in a drill with grinding compound to fine tune the buck and driver. Or maybe use a press and push a cold rivet into the buck and driver after heating them up.
Just thinking out loud ,If a person had a 4 inch copper plate with 1 inch legs and has a hole a tiny bit bigger then your rivet hole so it can easily be lifted out of the copper heating table with your air chisel rivet tool that has some rare earth magnets on the side of it which magnitizes the tool to lift the rivet.This enables you to heat from above and below. Now you can lay the torch on it's side to keep your next rivet hot in the little table. The hole in the frame will need to be slightly bigger so your hot rivet will slide in easily.This gap with tighten as you hammer the tools together. I find the hotter and more quickly you can get the operation done the better the results become. Like Wray says metal is clay. Great job anyways ! Looking sweet!!
I'm not sure if its been mentioned before but I used rivet jacks as opposed to using a hand held buck. It just means they must be heated in location but it worked great on my 32 frame
Next go around make a rivit tong out of flat bar. They look like something you could easily make. An induction coil to heat up a cold rivit in place might also help a lot. Save gas as well.
I have a lot of experience with form blocks . Working all my life as a sheet metal aircraft mechanic. We used Phenolic. . Very hard material. Easy to cut . But don't breathe the dust !!!!!!.
Length of the rivet matters, there is “common requirements “ in the aircraft industry dictating length and sizes- information should be available online. I have only driven cold rivets, but the size you are doing would imply a heavier gun- or more air pressure for quicker driving. Great to see you experimental work!
I’ve not done hot rivets before. But I’ve done aluminum rivets. My pal worked for aerospace company and the head of rivet went on outside and the Bucky (me) held pressure against shank on inside
(also, if you're having trouble getting the hot, expanded rivet in the hole, the hole is maybe too small? There definitely needs room for a lot of the rivet to 'barrel' and swell to get a tight grip?)
That rivet bouncing around, you wearing shorts... made me recoil in my chair. Knowing my luck, that bit would have ended in my shoe, homing right there near the ankle 😂 Kudos for pushing it, testing different methods. 🤙
You could at the very least use some of the blue tape I see lying around to seal the top of your boots around your legs. Fun getting it off, ouch, bug less ouch than a hot rivet down the boot. Good job nonetheless!!
You might consider making your hammer and anvil forms out of D2 tool steel, and having them heat treated. It’s tough to machine in an annealed state, yet once hardened/tempered, they will be extremely wear resistant.
I'm sure you're probably done with it by now, but there's a "Pakistan Truck" channel on RU-vid that breaks down and rebuilds commercial truck frames. They have some cool screw Jack's they use for vertical rivets in the channel. They do it all with sledge hammers, but the principle is still the same.
To be doing it by yourself, turning out great, what if you make your buck so you can put a clamp each side of the buck to hold it? obviously depending on room etc, it's coming together great, all the best to you and your loved ones
What car will you be running that 32 Ford grille on? The one hanging on the wall to the right of the Champion spark plug sign. I want to see that one when its done.
I was taught one and a half times the diameter of the rivet. Not the material. This makes more sense. You don't want different lengths to peen over. The size of the finished head shoukd be consistent and will totally depend on the stick out.
I worked in an aircraft factory for 39 years buddy and your driver (rivet) needs to be flushed up against the metal and your larger buck does the bucking of the rivet. It will suck it up tight!
Заклёпку нельзя греть на месте установки. Если не добил заклёпку по причине её остывания, это брак, нужно срезать и делать заново. Нагревать и добивать категорически нельзя! На такую операцию, нужно позвать помощников. Нагревать заклёпки, в идеале нужно в печи с регулятором температуры. Температура нагрева должна соответствовать типу заклёпки.
I've seen those paki truck repair guys use a sort of turnbuckle that presses against the head of the rivet from the opposite chassis rail. That way you also force the crossmember tight against the chassis.
