Thank you so much for posting this video. I’m stuck at the planning stage atm having just finished decking ,slabbing etc. You have given me the confidence to crack on now - absolutely beautiful result mate - I love the plants!!
Glad I could help. I'm not sure if you already have a pond or this is your first pond. Once you build one and keep fish it can be addictive. A lot of people build a pond then want more fish which means bigger. I would try and make it as big as you can to start.
VERY nice. If I ever get a chance, I plan on building a sleeper pond. Some things I would do(just because I'm me) that may be it's overkill. This is NOT to say anything he did was incorrect. I've never built one & would use his video as a guideline. The things listed below are from watching other RU-vid videos of people building sleeper ponds. 1. Once drilling the pilot holes, go back with a little larger bit, & drill about 1/2 inch. That way the head of the screws will be countersunk. 2. I would put bolts/screws in 2nd & 3rd row to screw them to the row below to make them a little stronger. 3. Use rebar(maybe overkill but again, that's me) to stop any flexing of the walls when they are filled. This might not be an issue on smaller ponds but I think if you went over 12 ft.(3.65 meters), you "might" have some flex. Of course, by doing step 2, it could make rebar not necessary. a. Drill about halfway through first row. Make a straight line across the top of 1st row going through the middle of the hole as close as you can. Then make another straight line going down the inside wall so you can line up upper rows. You can drill all the way through the 2nd row & line up with hole in 1st row. Again, drill a slightly larger hole so when hammering the rebar in, it would allow for an small discrepancies. Repeat for the rows after the 2nd row. I would also put rebar in the corners. After all holes are drilled, get a vacuum & suck up any sawdust that might have settled in the bottom. NOTE: If using rebar, take a small dowel rod that will fit in the holes(MAKE sure you can pull it out) to see exactly how deep each hole is. If you have discrepancies between the depths of the hole, have the rebar cut a little shorter than the average depth of the holes. Example: Lets say you put 12 pieces of rebar in(3 per side). You measure & the depths range from 35 - 36 inches. Have the rebar cut 35 to 35.5 inches. After you've hammered it in as far as you can, take a small piece of rebar, tap it down farther. BTW, one video I was instead of rebar, the person used wooden rods about 2 inches thick instead of rebar. Using the wooden rods, you hammer it in as far as you can & the trim the excess flush with the top row. While using wooden rods, the person would file down the bottom to look like this - \_/ - that will be going in. He did this because when he was hammering one in without that, it caught(because the holes were off too much & he couldn't get it to go all the way in. Again, I really liked this video & was impressed by how well he explained everything & the final result.
Yes I agree with everything you say. Every pond build you make choices. This build was a cheap as possible and only really built to get me through 5 years. If money is no option and you are going bigger or really want it to last a very long time I would take many of the measures mentioned. Best thing is watch as any builds as you can. Decide what you want and do your own thing.
That looks great. And like you said it saves so much work not having to dig out and get rid of the soil. Just a question, where did you get the sleepers?
Nice pond you have there. I helped me mate build a pond a few years ago. It’s was a nice pond but he had a nightmare with Herons taking his fish so now it’s permanently covered with net which doesn’t look great.
Luckily I haven't had many issues. It's not great when you have to use a net. Looks awful. But those herons are like the terminator they just keep coming.
The decking that sits on top of sleepers overhangs about 10mm. The top of basket I just put 2 screws through the plastic and screw into decking so top of plastic pot is in line with top of decking. The pot hangs and leans against inside of pond sleeper at a slight angle. As plant is in water not to much weight and weight pivots towards pond wall. Done this with both ponds. Larger one has plants in there that are 4 years old and large. Seems to work. Not had any fall off. Get screws that are not prone to rust as will be in damp environment.
Sorry I think I misunderstood question. That plant hanging over side just does it naturally. I don't do anything with it. Does same thing on all 3 ponds I built as long as you attach to edge of pond.
I have a 900 gal pond with a filter. Few plants are living but most have died off its been 4 months now I thought it would've cycled. I added one bottle of fertilizer to ratio but didn't help. So you have any tips on adding some type of liquids to help? The fish bred and made loads of fry recently so they will provide some nitrates I guess.
How many fish did you put in to start and how big? What sorts of plants are they? They in right depth of water for plant type? Getting enough sun? Pond in shade?
@alexisthisreal5488 in the beginning I only added 5 mature swordtails which is not hardly any to produce nitrates. It's in full shade must of the day. Very little sun I think that's the main problem but I want to find out if a right bskance of ph and nitrates is a benefit. It's it common that they are store bought in bottles and added to the pond? I think I may have to cut the many limbs that are above.
Yes I agree staggering joints is stronger and I think advisable if you have bigger volume of water and going higher with sleepers. I prefer the look of how I did it and didn't feel pond volume was large enough to require staggered joints. This was a personal choice and your right it is advisable to stagger.
The pump is for filtering purposes. You don't need one but without a pump and Filter you have to be careful with amount of fish you add. It has to balance naturally.
It depends on length of run. If there is already a power source in garden you can run off. More difficult if you have to run from fuseboard in house. To be honest I still not sorted that pond out properly. On extension lead 😩. Having experienced faulty pumps and heaters tripping electrics and causing everything to turn off I believe the best way is to have multiple rcds and setting it up so if say a pump fails and trips rcd you have second pump or airstones on separate rcd so you don't have total failure across your Pond. This is obviously more involved but safer for your Pond and fish.
Beautiful...... if possible can u plz share a cost breakdown of this pond ?? I think those sleepers r preety costly. Also how long does it took to cut them into proper size. I believe this is where most of the efforts r spent.
The sleepers were 200mm x 100mm x 2.4 m. At £22 each. Had to buy 12 of them. This was by far biggest expense. At around £270. I cut 6 at 1500mm and 6 at 1700mm as I did not overlap sleepers. It was hard work with a handsaw but cn be done. The 4 bits of decking on top only come to £32. Liner was a 4 x 4 m. It was a cheap one I didn't spend a lot. Think it was £55. Gravel 4 bags total £25. Hex screws were £20. Total £400. Pump and filter I already had. Along with plants. Pump is 3000 litre an hour. That cost around £70. 100 litre water butt, alfagrog, gravel, accessories for filter was probably £140 all in. Plants cost me £8 each in 1 litre pots. All in everything was probably £600-650. That's not taking into account any electrical. I'm electrician so do that all myself.
beautiful pond but i was thinking wouldnt it be good to have an overflow drain hole so if it rains a ton the fish wont escape from overflowing and keep the pond at a nice water level
I had an overflow on original sleeper pond and the water level was lower you could see liner. I didn't like it. I filled it in temp to see how it would go without one. Never had any issues. It tends to overflow evenly around pond under top decking. I kept an eye on it to check if water was getting behind liner. Never had fish get out. It doesn't seem to ever overflow over top of decking. It's what ever suits you. I'm new to this and adapt where I see an issue. They are very basic. As for water level I like it as high as possible. That's my preference. Not had issues with koi jumping out but I know you can.
4m x 4m mate. That gave plenty either side you can get away with smaller though if your careful. 1.5 m + 0.6 m for both sides is 2.7 m . So you could get away 3.5 m x 3.5 if they cut it for you to size.
I got sleepers from travis perkins. I get a little discount because of trade. But I think they are about £22. You gotta pick the better ones out though as most are poor quality.