I enjoyed this video. I like how you took a truck and showed us on camera visually what to look for in making a good purchase. Upload more of these types of videos if you can. I'm still learning more and more about the preventative maintenance side of trucking. Take care and God bless.
Greeting from amsterdam subscribed your channel man your your videos are amazing.. I'm not into trucking but the level of Mechanics and specifications your showing is really top notch.
I've been a person jumping between trucks for a number of years. Buy it, use it for a 1 to 1 and half years and then sell, trade and buy again. I can say that older trucks cost less to keep up than the new. But the fuel milleage isn't there. And with emissions systems it becomes even more difficult. Plus Volvo is one of those companies that is very proprietary. They want you on a service contract or they won't help you at all. Even asking for basic part numbers and they act like screwballs.
Hey Truck Yoo. Love your videos. I'd love to buy a 2020 Volvo 870. But with the slowdowns here in Newfoundland Canada just can't afford it. My Prostar will have to last. I got 2 loads last week. And if the wheels ain't turin' you ain't earning. Anyway keep up the videos very informing.
One big problem with Volvo’s is the drivers and passengers rot out at the bottom . I see people just cut the rotted spots out and put aluminum or stainless patch pieces in place
What are some key things to look for when buying a very cheap truck? Can you make a list? What are some go & no-go signs? What are some acceptable wear & tear repairs? How much would it cost me to have you come out and check on a truck that I'm looking at? Or rather would it be more cost-effective to pay you to find a truck for me and make a video about it?
I myself, just say go over the list of what first is. "What is the DOT looking at to put me out of service" and then I am going to ask "is this going to be affordable to put back into service?" Tires are expensive, but if you have a frame rail rusted at certain points, spring hangers and suspension parts that are very difficult to replace. That is the first thing. The next is always the braking and lighting system. Sometimes you cant even chase wires down. Especially on newer emissions trucks. They use Data communications wires instead of voltage wires. If it has a Heads up display, chances are it is using data wire. I've had 2 volvos with emissions systems and they are wired up like your grandmother's old christmas tree lights that she pulls out of the attic. One bulb doesn't work and the truck goes nowhere! Then volvo will want 10 grand just to solve a 5 dollar issue, and you cant find it yourself because the truck requires software updates. SO for first time owners. I'd say go find a nice truck before 2008, for every gram of rust on your truck is 10 minutes that DOT inspector will sit there looking at it, and always greet the guy and ask him how is day is when he walks up to your door, so if he finds something wrong. he might be nice about it.
You'll be kicking yourself in the ass when you realize you cant just do local work. But if your a beast and determined to make that money they do sell hammocks for trucks that stretch from door to door but its still ruff with no room to put anything.
Question for you what would you charge to transport 2-20’ foot shipping containers gross weight 24K from New Jersey to California 2905 miles appreciate any feedback.
I run multiple local. With my experience, I would not trust them to run OTR. The engines are very solid, but I've had to replace almost everything attached to them!
can you list the best trucks to look for when becoming a new owner op. I wanna become one, but pay cash for a decent truck that I can start to work with then invest more $ into. appreciate you. or best engines too look out for?
Just bought a 2012 cascadia mid roof, 623k miles,475hp dd15,10spd, 3.36 rears, owner op spec. New steers & drives, new disc brakes, truck is immaculate.... want to guess how much I paid for it? 😁😁😁 $14k Oil analysis and dyno come back clean!
@@yeb7997 6 months later and she’s doing good so far. I run southeast and Midwest. Been as far out as Clinton Oklahoma and as far north as Chicago(unfortunately). Have had to replace a fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail & the throttle pedal/position sensor. That’s it so far, as far as the truck is concerned I’m pleased with it. The elog aspect of it.... ehh... not a big fan but whatcha gonna do?
@@soniapritchardsmith9219 18k and you gotta deal 😁 been thinking about it anyway cuz I’m looking at eld/emissions exempt trucks.... just not sure what I wanna do yet.
@@TruckYoo 😏 well for the record, I've never driven a Peterbilt of any kind, and the only Kenworth I've ever driven was an old T600 day cab with 3406E. Driven some Volvo's though. But my preference is old square trucks, with minimal electronic nannies, engines that make noise and straight pipes to go with it. The less areo dynamic and new the better lol I do like the info you give us on your glider experiences. The 4300 is my preference 😁
@@TruckYoo i did see an old 1996 GMC/Volvo i think it was, N14 13sp, had close to a 300 wheel base, and lots of chicken lights. For $12,500 or so. I'll admit that wasn't a bad looking unit. Spec'd out nice
Volvos are to expensive to maintain even the simplest parts are expensive. $10,000 for the truck and that truck is going to take $15,000 to get it back on the road
They didn’t shit to the truck! Buying yourself a lot of problems. You ain’t gonna make no money. You’ll be making $4.50 a hour…that’s pretty good though. Stay out on the road 6 mouths with no home time, you’ll make enough to pay your mortgage
Your explanations were explanatory.. and comprehensive and it feels as though you also have mechanical knowledge.. I would love to have your contact..so I can reach out to you on WhatsApp or email id
