I believe you will only get ~20F of temp drop from the front intake to the output air. If you take in air from the same space you are cooling there is the effect of continuously getting colder (to a point, thermostat limits this so AC won’t freeze up), which is quite important in hot weather.
You are correct. I just wanted to make a very intro level video explaining how this can be done. I ended upgrading to a 10,000btu AC, that has multiple inlets & outlets, equipped with external blowers, & the intakes are now connected to the cabin to recycle the cabin air instead of drawing in new air all the time. I am able to maintain 85 in 120 ambient temps outside in direct sunlight. The system works fairly well, considering it costs under $500. I also installed remote power, so it can be turned on & off without touching the AC unit, which is nice, as most window AC units will reset their settings if you use the built in power switch. They always default to eco mode which is super annoying, so the external power switch works much better.
yeah, I was thinking the same thing, really inefficient... .. but... when you've been standing in 100 degree heat for a few hours, a blast of 80 degree air still feels pretty damn good.
The typical AC unit can only drop the return air 15~20 degrees. Since he is pulling 90 degree air from outside, it can only get to about 70 dg from the vent(should be in the low 50's. Plus since he is sucking outside air into the boat it would pressurize the boat, so for every cfm cool air in, the same cool cfm going out. Think about how a window unit is designed to work in the window. It recirculates indoor air and cools the condenser with outside air. In a pinch this set up will work but with very little efficiently. nt
With the intake not routed to the cabin and pulling air from the top deck, you run the risk of your one buddy, and I know you got one, that will go up there and rip ass on your a/c unit intake, Exposing the flaws of your install.
I think that particular A/C uses a “slinger” method to sling water on the coil to help with cooling/exchange efficiency. Question is… do you have humid days where the ac produces a lot of condensation? Is it ever an issue or has the ac been able to dissipate the condensate fast enough(via evap during slinging process) to not have any issues?
I have never had any issues, but on super hot days I will poor water inside of it so it can sling the extra water onto the condenser & enable it to create cooler air.
