This is one of the alternatives of using electronic air cleaner housing as filter frame. Please don't forget to disconnect power or turn switch off on your Electronic Air Cleaner.
Thank you, thank you thank you so so so much! This video saved me from suffering again this year from the odor that was coming to the house through the air vents. After replacing the electric filter, now I no longer have to be bothered. I’m very grateful 😊🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
My 22 year old Honeywell electronic air cleaner apparently failed recently as the small indicator light no longer will light up. I noticed the unit not working after I cleaned the 2 cells in the dishwasher like I have done twice a year since the unit was new. However, I did not verify that the EAC was indeed working BEFORE I removed the cells prior to cleaning. So I don't know if it was working before I cleaned the cells. The clean cells were returned to the unit only to learn that the EAC would not turn on. I thought I might have a broken wire but that proved false. Basically I figured the EAC was shot after 22 years and decided to replace the EAC with disposable paper filters since a new Honeywell replacement unit would be over $1,000 plus labor costs to install. I got Honeywell replacement paper filters on Amazon that fit the old unit perfectly. I figured I saved my self over a $1,000 and the twice a year cleaning of the old unit. I am very happy I found this video on RU-vid. Many thanks to the person posting it.
@paulmeyer1065 Glad to hear my video was helpful to you! It's always great to find a more budget-friendly solution. Just a quick tip: be sure to flip the power switch on the electronic cleaner to the off position, and maybe even tape it off. If it gets energized for any reason, it could potentially start a fire, especially if it gets wet. Stay safe and happy filtering! 😊🤝👍
I put foam tape on the tip and bottom of the filter (running the length of the filter) to prevent air escaping around the filter. I think the box on my Trion Max 5 is a little larger than the Honeywell, so there is about a 1/2 inch gap if I don't use the foam tape. Works well for me!
Thanks Scott for your message thats fantastic 👍😊.. I'm glad this was helpful. Spam alert 📢 You know what would be even more fantastic!?! You subscribing to this channel 😆😅😉.. hehe I appreciate all who are able to subscribe, and help me to grow this channel.. more useful videos arriving soon .. HAVE AN AWESOME WEEKEND!! Cheers!!
Thank you so much for posting this! Ours Just failed a few weeks ago and we have the same Honeywell! Update. I wanted to let you know that the 16x25x5 was Just slightly too wide. I couldn't fit it in even after taking out the pre filters. I went down to a 4 wide and although there's room on either side, with the pre filters it's suitable! 😉
@@tomiyourtradesguy6708 yes thank you. I Will also turn the honeywell switch that to the off position that is located inside the furnace. The box is clearly marked honeywell. I figured out that this is for the electronic air cleaner because our furnace is not a Honeywell. But thanks for this tip I will also keep the power switch off located on the outside of the box. Thanks again for sharing
I watched this video AFTER struggling, and succeeding in getting the new filter past that DAMN screw. I ended up reading under the filter, and lifting the front of the filter in order to get it past the screw. ALWAYS come to youtube before doing new stuff! When it comes time to replace the filter, I'll remove the screw. I also turned power off to the electronic case, since it obviously wasn't needed any longer. Since my furnace is only about a year old, I used a MERV 11 filter. I did take out the pre-filters, and left them out - though don't know if I should have done so.
ED, I ran into that problem with that screw long time ago and and though..I should make a small video to help out other folks. Yes power should be turned OFF or removed from the electronic air cleaner and just use it as a filter frame. I'm glad you found this helpful. Wish you all the best
Many tks for the demo...exactly what I was looking for. I have the exact unit and bought some filters and it all fits. Question I have ..you did mention about UV filters...are these highly recommended and I guess these need to be installed separately
I would say its good to have it installed especially if you have anyone in your home with respiratory problems. I did notice that some people would assume that if they install UV light in their furnace the whole house will be bacteria free, thats is wrong. Know that UV light purifies only the air that passes through the ductwork and gets in line sight of the UV light. When choosing UV light for your home, select one by square footage of your house. Here is a link that I found with very good explanation and information about UV lights. www.pickhvac.com/faq/hvac-uv-lights/
Thank you for posting this. I have been searching for an alternative to having my unit repaired. It is 20 years old along with the furnace so until we replace the furnace, this is an excellent solution. Thank you for the reminder to keep the switch located on the outside of the box to the off position and leaving it there when using the paper filters. Can I also turn the switch to "Off" located on the honeywell box that is located inside my furnace? My furnace is a Duncan so not the same, so I am assuming it is the power box to the honeywell electronic air filter... Thank you again!
I am glad that you found this useful. Honeywell makes many parts for furnace, from gas valves to control boards and different accessories. If you can follow the wires and see if it is actually part of your EAC. Then turn it off. Usually you would not a see additional switch inside furnace for your electronic air cleaner. Typically you would see it wired to your furnace control board. SO from your electronic air cleaner two wires and a ground would connect into your furnace. Black wire to EAC terminal and white wire would go to ( N terminal )neutral section. Every time fan is energized EAC terminal sends 120V out and starts your air cleaner. :)
There is many different types of EAC's.. and majority of them operate at 120V and some 208/240. So locating power supply and turning it off or unplugging it is necessary to eliminate any potential for fire. (Highly unlikely..but it has happened to some people). Safety first 😁👍
@@tomiyourtradesguy6708 will do! Also, My electrostatic filter unit is plugged into an outlet ganged with the furnace switch. I’m assuming I could just unplug the power cord altogether?
Thank you very much for this very useful video. Hard to come by this information. With the regular pleated filter in, do you keep your electronic air cleaner unit turn off?
This might be helpful to someone. The unit does need to be turned off. It will cause a fire. www.timesreporter.com/news/20190731/disposable-filter-in-electronic-air-cleaner-catches-fire-at-dover-township-home
Great post. What do you recommend for the American Standard Accuclean system if you want to use regular filter. My local furnace shop says I have to replace door for 1200 bucks( NOT) to get mine working properly so I'm opting for your idea.
@Nelson G Hi there, so.. I'm not familiar with AS Accuclean but this is what I would recommend. two options. Since you had already professional diagnose that you need new door (Power Pack). Go to www.electronicaircleaners.com. On the back of the Power Pack / door there is model # AFD.... this will get you the proper replacement part. its proximately $320 depending on a model. and install it your self if yo feel comfortable doing it. option 2. is replace cells with Pleated Pre filter Marv 8. Now i have not come across a AS accuclean so i cant tell you exact measurements.. you will need to turn power off and take actual measurements. What is your model #? Thanks 😎
I just bought a house and they have a 4” filter with 1” filter that’s for odours I think? Is that ok to combine the two? Also there seems to be about another inch gap so the space is actually about 6” wide. Should I replace with a 5” + 1”?
Adding more filters can potentially create too much of pressure drop. This would increase your temperature rise in when in heating and possibly cycle furnace on high limit. In cooling it could freeze up your evaporator coil. I would recommend you get 5-inch filters and replace them twice a year...
Our air conditioner does not come on at all, but the heat does. We self-diagnosed that the EAC was the reason for the air not working. The EAC light does not come on, so would just replacing with the filters you describe cause the air to work again, or could there be another issue? Thanks!
Are you concerned with restricting air flow using both the replacement filter and the prefilters? I made the swap and was curious if this is something you have to watch, the flow out of the registers seems similar
Hi Alaskarain75 you don't have to use pre-filters but if you are you have to clean them once a month at least or as they get dirty... so less work if you don't use them :)
Hey I was told that it is important to not just turn off the power switch on the electronic air filter, but to completely remove the power supply as well because it is dangerous and can start a fire. Do I have to take that extra step and hire someone to remove the power supply to the electronic air filter?
If you can hire professional the best thing to do. If people are electronically inclined to disconnect the 120V feed to the electronic filter, they can find that power for the electronic filter is usually connected on furnace control board on EAC 120V terminal and goes directly to the swich. If swich is in OFF position the power stops there. Putting tape over it so it is not accidental turned ON is good idea.
In addition to removing the electronic power supply, there will be 4 rectangular holes on the top side of the electronic air cleaner frame/filter housing used to mount the power supply. These must be sealed. Good quality aluminum duct tape should work to seal the holes. 2 of them are about 2 by 4 inches in size, the other 2 are small. I just went the other way: installed the electronic air cleaner in a Honeywell Media filter frame. Honeywell uses the same frame for both and the frame comes with 4 punch outs on the top side that remain in place if using the 5 inch thick Honeywell Media filter (MERV 11).
This looks like it could solve my problems! Can not find a replacement for my EAC filter and I also heard it is quiet expensive. I do not have a Honeywell model but my cells measure about 11x15.5x5.5 each. I tried purchasing a 16x25x5 but does not seem to fit. Any suggestions?
Hello Justin, there is 16x22x5 filters but are costum order from supplier... if you can't get that. you could try get 16x20x4 that's common size 16x20x4 MERV 11 Pleated Furnace Filter - Made in Canada - Case of 6 www.amazon.ca/dp/B07QC9GN7V/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_36GDM33DSYQA3C6PXCNF. . ****And get pool noodles. Cut to hight and depth to add to the filter's side, so that when you slide filter in together with that peace all air will be directed through the filter. Again...ideal is to get proper. This might work for you. When filter is installed.. Run your furnace in heat mode and measure temperature difference across the furnace. Supply air ( hot air out) - Return air( cold air back to furnace at filter) = Temp Rise.. make sure that # is between 30 and 60F. If that checks out than you will be ok to continue using that set up. ( too much air restriction will cause furnace to overheat or in cooling mode cause evaporator coil for freez up.😁👍
In Canada we just put it on the street by the curb... and it's GONE😱... anything that is metal the "scrap guys " take it.. this summer many people lost their lawnmower.. ran out of gas, step in to get gas, and come out to find it all gone😆.. don't know where you live but ..you could find even electronic recycling place and drop it in their bin. Good luck.
Hey Mac, Glad you found this helpful, make sure you disconnect the power or tape the switch in off position. :) just in case filter get wet for what ever reason ….
@@tomiyourtradesguy6708 I actually couldn't find the right size filter for my bryant electronic air cleaner. I measured the two cells and tried to google the filter size but no one sells it?
@@andymccloskey8039 what's the size are you looking for..?. Usually 16x25x5 is what fits in there. The actual size of the filter would measure smaller 15-15/16"× 24-7/8" x 4-3/8" but when you're searching for a replacement filter type in the bigger number which would be 16x25x5 .. You should be able to find it on Amazon. Let me know how u make out.
Hi Chris since this filter is wide and there is greater surface area. I would say merv8 to merv11 is good. If you would get anything higher you would not be able to achieve higher Merv rating as it would require special filter housing/case that has seals holding filter in place and creating a Tight Seal. :) One more thing if your filter is 1 inch thick example 16x25x1. Dont go higher merv rating than 8 if you are not going to change it once a month... What I'm finding on high merv 1" filters or Allergen / bacteria filters... they get plugged up fast... then create too much air restriction and causes furnace to cycle in on high limit in heat mode or freeze up the evaporator coil in cooling mode. Thanks
I cant find a replacement for the metal mesh pre-filter that fits! With the disposable filter set-up, am I okay without the pre-filter or should I continue to search... Thank you!
@@tomiyourtradesguy6708 Hi Thank you for this video, in regards to pre-filters mine wasn't there when I bought the house. I was thinking of purchasing a replacement just because there is about an inch gap and im concerned it won't be as efficient. What are your thoughts? Thanks!
Can i just leave cells out and not put anything? I have a regular air filter i change like a normal ac in my wall. I bought a house with this and never had one on a system before so idk if its dirty. My airflow is weak but house is cool
While it's possible to run your air handler without a filter, it's crucial to have a filtration system in place to safeguard your appliance and equipment. Operating your A/C without a filter over an extended period greatly increases the risk of clogging your evaporator coil or secondary heat exchanger, particularly in high-efficiency condensing furnaces
@tomiyourtradesguy6708 I have a filter in my wall that I change out with 1" filters. My upstairs unit has electronic air cleaners but it's empty. Nothing in it. Should I leave it empty . System is still filtered cause of my 1" filter in wall
@charlesherrmann4735 In that scenario, it would be perfectly acceptable to leave the EAC empty. However, if you opt for an EAC cabinet to maximize surface area and minimize air restriction, remember to eliminate the wall filter. Choose either option, but not both.
Need a bit more of information. Make sure your power switch is OFF. And listen for the noise. It is possible that your door is not sitting in the housing correctly.
Can you simply just turn the power switch to off or should you disconnect voltage coming into the unit? Is there any safety issues to just flipping to off position? My electrostatic unit is hardwired into furnace.
It's always best to disconnect power if possible. Turning switch off AND PUTTING TAPE OVER IT it works but not ideal. Because there is a potential of someone flipping the switch back ON. Now carbord doesn't conduct electricity so nothing would happen but if filter got wet from A/C overflowing or humidifier getting it wet and switch is on your filter could possibly start fire if conditions are ideal. SO... do what you are comfortable with. On my two furnaces at that specific location I have it off on the switch and small tape over it with note.
@@greatlakessuperclean for 1" filters I say don't. But in your case now 5" filter merv 12 is ok but waste of money, If you don't have gasket in the filter frame you will not achieve merv 12. . If there is no price difference I would go with merv12. I would recommend locating a rating plate in the furnace... it will tell you Designed temperature rise ( example Degree F 35-65). Install desired filter in the furnace and run it in heat mode for 5 min, measure temperature rise. If it's within that range, than that filter is ok to use in that system. Temperature rise is measured calculated air temperature difference between supply and return air. Air out - air in = temp rise.
Sorry missed this comment. It depends what filter efficiency is used.. Over all if you are cleaning your EAC properly and using spray on your cells I would say EAC is will remove more compared to average PL filter.. Sorry for late reply
With info that I have right now I would say...You could try to get 4" filter to slide it into the cabinet ..it's ok if there is a gap between pre and post filter tracks.
Im in a new home that had American Standard ACCUclean system installed and it's giving me trouble. I've wondered Do these electronic air cleaners also require filters put into the main air intake vents? Ive never had them in mine, but I never knew for sure if they are still needed?
Hello, " so pre filters aren't mandatory, but they greatly improve efficiency of EAC. Placing a filter in the return air before the HVAC equipment is crucial-it keeps the blower wheel and coils clean. Avoid adding filters in the supply ductwork or supply floor register as it might cause increased static pressure. This could overheat the furnace in heat mode or cause freezing in cooling mode especially if there's already a furnace filter in the return." As for your particular American standard filter you can find more information in operation manual its PDF file: docs.electronicaircleaners.com/accuclean_owners.pdf Cheers 😎👍
@@tomiyourtradesguy6708 I know what the filters are for, but if you have accuclean your replacing having to use the other standard filters and so I'm asking is it good to use Both or do the extra filters mess up the air flow of the system with too much filtration?
@Wolfsheim23 ooo I see 🤦♂️no don't use both, you are correct too much filtration creates pressure drop and reduces air flow ... and low air flow is always a problem. 🫡👍
Depends how it's wierd in.. if it's powered from furnace main board EAC terminal, the light /electronic air cleaner will be powered when ever the fan is running. If it's powered directly to wall outlet then it's always ON. Proper way would be to connect it to EAC terminal which is 120V hot and N with all white terminal for neutral. If you decide to put a regular filter inside.. you must turn the switch to OFF position . 😎
@@tomiyourtradesguy6708 thanks for reply - I was just cleaning the cells and noticed , even with thermostat OFF !!! And I turn the Filter Switch ON . Amber LED is ON All the Time. I was Thinking maybe Furnace guy wired incorrectly. I would thing the Electronic Filter would only Come on If Furnace or A/C is Moving Air
Just watched. Our Honeywell Electronic Air Purifier's inside space is only 12 inches deep, so it looks like I need a 20x12x5 filter. Does anyone make those? I'm having trouble finding them.
Hi Valery, I have not come across that my self. I assume you have Honeywell F300A2012. So when you look for filters type in 12x20x5.. If you can't find that... I just found on amazon 12x20x4 Hopefully this works for you :)
Uh, that's a good filter system.. I have not come across that anyone wanted to put in an alternative filter in it... your filter has a good media filter #501media with huge surface area... there is inner filter housing where you insert / assembel your filter material in it. Without the electrical portion working ionizer, I believe you can still get Merv10 out of it. So it's good. If you can keep using it. If you still want to decide to slide in a regular filter .. you would need to pull out the inner filter housing and see the dimensions.. I believe it will be 16x25x6... but there is a channel going down the middle of the actually mettal housing.. so you would probably need to use 16x25x2 .. double check the size before buying a filter. Here is the installation manual for reference www.hvacpartsshop.com/content/aprilaire-manuals/aprilaire-5000-installation-manual.pdf Good luck please let us know what you end up doing and the size of filter that fits in it. Cheers👍
@terryholt2949 Yeah, as far as I know, that string is spot welded, and it can't be removed.. they do have 16x25x4 filters, and that filter can handle 1400 CFM, which is good for up to 3.5Ton A/C
@@spoooky181 hello, so I would say Yes. ...but ...it depends on a lot of factors.. and the most important thing is how much CFM (air your furnace needs to move through it's self to operate correctly and efficiently. Things to keep in mind is The design of your ductwork, the cleanliness of your secondary heat exchanger and evaporator coil, the position of your balance dampers can potentially create a problem. For example : if you have 4 ton A/C or 100,000 btu furnace on 1" filter you would have great pressure drop.. and furnace in cooling mode would freeze up coil or in heating mode would be overheating and cycle on High limit. That is NO GOOD. But if you have a smaller furnace you could try and see if it's working for you. I would recommend doing temperature Rise on your furnace. On your raiting plate of the furnace you will see information typically Temp Rise 35 to 65F. So put your 1" filter, and start furnace in heat mode. Measure with temperature probe return air. The temperature by the filter example you get 72F, than check discharge air, that is hot air leaving furnace.. and if you measure 134F... so Discharge air - return air = Temp-Rise. 134 -72 = 62 so you would say this will probably work but it's getting close ..will need to change filter more often than. Hopefully this doesn't confuse you too much 😁
Agree with you best is to have only one throw away filter... to keep pressure drop minimal. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. The best would be if everything just worked and no need of any of this 😉
Thank you, that was exactly the answer I was looking for to the question that landed me here! I read on my paper filter packaging "electrostatic" but I did not believe that was created from the physical power of the air cleaner. Should be specified on the packaging I think. Thanks for the video too, cheers.
@@tomiyourtradesguy6708 To be clear, after changing out the metal filter to the paper filter, I should NOT turn the switch back on, correct? Just leave it off as long as I have a paper filter inside the air cleaner?
Yes fixing is the best option...if it's small thing like ionizer wire that's quick and easy cheep fix. This is just one of many options.. will you take the blue or red pill 😁
@@tomiyourtradesguy6708 I did'nt test it before, because I don't have a high voltage probe/meter. I recently seen on you tube a guy testing with a screwdriver. I ordered an upgraded power supply and got the cleaning indicator that will work with it. I'm hoping I can bring the Frankenstein monster back to life, too many silly movies in my youth. haha A popular friend in High school worked at a pharmacy, and knew the PDR, other kids would ask him to identify their ill gotten pills. He played with the needle drugs - his corpse was found behind a dumpster, stabbed, he used to get the highest grades.
Measure your electronic air cleaner cells BEFORE you buy or order your filters. Not all Honeywell electronic air cleaners are created equal ... a 16x20 fits my filter. Also, a 4 inch thick filter works because a 5 inch thick filter puts the foam gaskets over the unused bracket for the pre-filter on that side.
Yes! I am using a 16x25x4 bc it was too tight and the foam on top was getting stuck. The only filter I could find without the foam and a reasonable with was a filter called filtrete 16x25x4. There is a little space at the sides but length and height are perfect. No foam 48.00
I do agree with you that it's always the best to use them the way they have been designed. However, sometimes people dont want to wash the cells or they lose or break pre filters / cells, and or the module becomes defective. ( people do all kinds of crazy things) 🙂 This is just an alternative for people to use 👍 until they fix it
