Thank You for taking care to show the Away Look first, before zooming and getting closer. Many utubers miss this point and that is hard for wathers to determine where even the work area is. Especialy with all the cell phone framing. Thank You guys again , I learned a lot for my LS460 actualy to.
This this on my car and saved like $800. What is ridiculous is all of the little tiny clips, whoever designed that black box did it just to screw people. LOL. That was the hardest part it took forever for us to get those little tabs off.
I just did this and I have a few helpful hint to make the removal easier. You have to do a few things before you start prying on the small clips on the perimeter. Unbolt the box like the video describes, drilling the hole to reach the screw is a great idea. 1. Cut the zip tie on the right side like the video suggests. Also cut the big zip tie on the left side that holds the big wire bundle to the bottom of the cover. 2. The small black fuse block on the left that runs vertical to the link and the black relay box has a 10 mil screw on the side facing the firewall, remove it. 3. Black clips get pushed in to release and grey clips get pushed out to release except two grey clip on the top and bottom right corner gets pushed in to release. You should only have to release all the outside clips and have all three boxes slide out as one unit. Once out you can easily separate the three boxes. Follows these steps and you shouldn't mangle the box and clips like I did. If it's really hard to get out, your doing something wrong.
@@giftfromgodpostcardministr6547 It might be if you can find one that isn't already blown. Usually that blows during an accident. I didn't want to risk introducing a new problem so I just changed the fuse. I would just change the fuse with a new one.
@@markg5916 okay thanks I'm going to try to find the whole thing but I'm going to make sure from the junkyard that the car was running when they tested it
I just did mine and found out why fuses at the end were so hard to remove. The bracket that holds fuses has a slide on each end that locks too block and relays. one release from top and the other on bottom. So if you just try to pull up it will not come out
I’m pretty sure I have the same issue. No power to car I ran a hot wire from the fusible link to 12v on battery. Everything powers but the push button will not turn green.
Bro same thing happened to mine 2008 gs350 had that main fuse replaced it had burned out and had the alternator replaced but now my turn signals don't work and I'm having like shortage or loose connection type where everything is tripn out
@@premudeshi99 Yes, it was the dead battery only, I replaced it and I only had to drive it on the highway some 25 miles going and coming back. It wasn't the fusible link.
Did job today $207 at dealer for part it’s on Amazon for $95 and eBay around 65 and up ..... u just can go wrng with dealer tho anyways break all da clamps fyuck it u won’t need them because of da fitted goves in there for the part to slid back in da wires pretty much stay in place when u move them u need a 10 mm and 8 mm for da different sides u have to release wires from long job but it wuz fun @100 holla any questions
So my friend got the lexus gs350 and for some reason his 30 amp for the radio keep blowing fuse left and right the car has two 30 amp fuses for the radio the one close to the bottom keep blowing the fuse how do i solve the problem
There is probably water/moisture in the trunk where the alternator is. There is a little black vent for the alternator. Water gets in there you need to change the vent
No. Remember to check your alternator before changing the fusible link. If it checks out good its bery possible that the car was boosted backwards or the battery was installed backwards
It's a fuse, same reason you wouldn't put a 40 amp fuse where a 10 amp fuse should be. You can literally burn the car down or at least destroy the computer and modules if the link doesn't blow. It's a safety feature designed for a specific task and has a predetermined failure point engineered into it.
Life saver video! Spent hours cursing heaven and earth, unplugged every single little fuse but nothing until i found your video. I even looked at that main fuse but didn't see the break before. Im soldering it to get home then will order a new obe to replace
👍🏼….. I know it’s kinda hokey but you can also wrap tin foil tightly around the break in the fuse. I have to do this as a new fuse wasn’t available for a week and I needed the car to get around. It worked just fine and I was able to order a new fuse online for a fraction of the price that Lexus or the local parts suppliers wanted. If I remember correctly I pair less then $100.00.
I have a 2007 IS 350. I stopped at the gas station, filled up, then jumped back in my car and it was totally dead. I couldnt even turn on my dome lights, hazards, or use the horn. I know 100% it's not my battery because my battery is only 1 year old. I even took it back and insisted on a return cause it was under warranty, which I was given a brand new battery. I tried the new battery and I still have absolutely no power to anything. I checked my fusible link and it is perfectly fine. I guess all I can try now is to trace the power from my battery and see where it stops.
@@user-ih3qp8vq9o Yes, it was my negative wire to my battery. Underneath the carriage where it attached to the body, it was frayed and corroded. Once I got under there and cleaned it and made a new end, my car started immediately!
@@Tell_It_Right thanks for the response. I checked/inspected and removed that cable and it seemed fine. For clarification this is the cable going from the negative side of the battery down to the body of the car right above the wheel well. Secured to body via a small bolt. Seemed rust free and grounded.
@@user-ih3qp8vq9o yes, that's the cable. For me, once I cleaned that area and reattached the cable my car started fine and has been running fine ever since.
