The Culture Brewing Channel is your one stop shop for all things homebrew. Learn everything that you need to know to make and design great beer at home. Link from the video: Dry Hopping Guide - byo.com/article/advanced-dry-...
This is something I have just recently got into doing. I have just made a Festival Razorback IPA beer kit, which came with a dry hop addition to be added after 5 days of fermentation, then leave the hops in the fermentation bucket for another 5 days before bottling or barrelling! I have watched a number of reviews on this IPA, and some people say it's fantastic at the start, but seemed to die away in the bottle after a couple of months! I barreled my 5 gallon batch on the 25th of September, and it is amazing! For an extract kit, I was very impressed, it was the best kit I have done to date by far!
You hear so much conflicting stuff about dry hopping but it makes so much sense about adding just before fermentation ends as not to introduce oxygen into the beer, I've clearly not been using enough hops most I've used is 50g I'm gonna try doubling based on your mention.
Thanks dude. Am just learning stuff before taking the plunge. Tried naff homebrew kit about 29 years ago but was shit. Now I love the likes if the Gammaray/punk/goose I see behind you. Would love to be able to brew a decent glass.
I love Gammaray too!! I brewed a clone recipe of it a while back and it came out great. I think the Malt Miller sells an all-grain Gammaray Clone kit. I started out with this pretty basic homebrew setup and was able to make some decent beers.
Very informative video! Question, if you are adding the hops toward the end of primary fermentation (3-4 days) and keeping them in for 5 days are you then removing the hop bag and extending primary or going directly to bottling/keg?
At the time of this video I was bottling so i was just bottling after the 4-5days dry hop and letting it bottle condition. I think you could get away with even 7-9 days before any grassy hop flavours come in - only way to know is to test it out. Now I have a fermzilla so I can oxygen free dry hop whenever i want regardless of whether fermentation is over or not.
Super interesting, great vid! Couple of questions: 1. Any thoughts on hopping at the secondary fermentation stage in keg? 2. Is it possible to fresh hop as you would for dry hopping at the primary or I guess secondary fermentation stage? Cheers!
Hi, I think most homebrewers these day do not bother with a secondary. I never secondary my beer and just cold crash and pressure transfer to keg. I think a secondary goes back to big breweries wanting to get the beer off the trub because it can impact flavour - with such a small batch size for homebrewing it really doesnt impact the beer.
I've been thinking about making a hop tea boiling the water to lower the available oxygen then cool to 180f then add the hops for 20 minutes to pasteurize. Then cool it to 65f then add the whole lot directly to the fermenter for the last few days of fermentation. I'm thinking this would greatly reduce the risk of oxidization.
This is an interesting idea!! I've not experimented with hop teas. You've got me thinking of temperatures of hopstands and what impact it supposedly has - do you think a hop tea at 82c would be the same as a dry hop at 20c? I know brulosophy did an experiment with 78c and 89c and couldn't tell a difference between hopstand temps.
Excellent video. Subbed.... question If dry hopping a glass carboy. Can I toss my pellets in straight with no bag? The bag would be hard to pull out afterwards ? Although the bag aids in the clarity vs. Loose pellets floating around ? Would they ever settle out in time to bottle ? Thanks
Cold crashing for a few days before bottling would drop a lot of the hop debris out. I've moved on a fermzilla and dry hop without a bag - so I cold crash also.
Great video, I’m about to dry hop my beer and in my case the yeast cake already fell to the bottom, should I worry about that? I’m planning on 14 days fermentation, so plan to throw the hops on day 9. Any suggestion? Thanks
Thanks!! With fermentation at a point where far less co2 is being produced you have a greater risk of oxidation. The only way is to try it out and see the results. Try to be as quick as possible without splashing the beer when adding them. I'm now using the Fermzilla to be able to dry hop completely oxygen free but before that I had started to favour big whirlpool hop additions over dry hops as once it's in the fermenter you don't have to mess with it.
I’ve always been hesitant about dry hopping because I was afraid of spoiling the brew by opening the fermenter lid. However, your informative and helpful video has given me confidence to proceed with dry hopping. Thanks. I am soon to start a Citra Smash IPA. The Citra hop additions for my 11.5L brew are as follows: 20 grams 60 minutes 15 grams for last 10 minutes of boil. 25 grams at turn off 25 Dry hopping I want a big hop aroma so do you think 25 grams is too little for the dry hopping? Should I even consider doubling the quantity 50 grams? David Cartledge
I've used as much as 80g of citra dry hop in some of my beers - the Three Floyds Zombie Dust Clone uses 80g citra dry hop and smells amazing in the glass. I think 50g is a good amount. Citra is a great hop and I've found that it's one of the best in terms of the aroma sticking around until you pour it into the glass!!! In terms of oxygen, dry hopping is a risky time but also how you transfer the beer to the keg or bottles is also very risky for oxygenation. I've since purchased a Fermzilla 27l for closed transfer and oxygen free dry hopping - even if you are not kegging, you could pressure ferment and then use the blichman beergun to bottle oxygen free.
@@theculturebrewingchannel5619 Thanks for your reply. When you say that 50 grams is a good amount are you taking into account that I am only doing an 11.5L brew?
@@theculturebrewingchannel5619 Sorry to trouble you again. I will be using fermentis dry yeast (US 05) for my Citra Smash brew. I usually leave the brew in the fermenter for 11 days. If I dry hop on day 5 that would mean the hops are in the fermenter for 6 days which I understand is a bit long. Would you recommend putting the hops in the fermenter later or trying to cut the duration of 11 days in the fermenter?
@@dcgrace I think most people dry hop between 2 and 5 days but i've done 7 before without noticing anything negative. I think you'll be fine with 6 days.
Good video. Am i right in thinking that a lot of homebrewers seem a bit too paranoid about oxygen getting into their fermentation vessels? Surely the CO2 being heavier than the oxygen will not allow any into the vessel when the lid is removed for a short period?
From what I understand, it's heavier but it's not the same as separated liquids that would have to be shaken up to be mixed, it's very easy to disrupt and mix 'air'. I agree, as long as you do it quickly and try your best to reduce exposure then you should be fine if fermentation is still ongoing - i think the bottling day is the biggest oxidation risk. Since moving to a pressure fermentation vessel and kegs I've had zero problems of oxidation that i did struggle on a few brews with buckets and bottles.
Why is it that you use low alfa acid hops for a big smell? Cant this be done with high alfa acid hops as well? What do you do when you've put the hops in for 5 days, but the fermentation isn't over yet?
You can indeed use any hope any anytime - i think traditionally people would use low alpha as the finishing hops and therefore they tend to be regarded as the aroma and flavour hops, not the bitter hops. So back when i made this video, i was just following this traditional understanding. Indeed nowadays people are doing all sorts, some high alpha hops have massive flavour and aroma - many modern IPAs use them throughout. The more traditional understanding is explained by John Palmer "There are many varieties of hops, but they are usually divided into two general categories: Bittering and Aroma. Bittering hops are high in alpha acids, at about 10 percent by weight. Aroma hops are usually lower, around 5 percent and contribute a more desirable aroma and flavor to the beer. Several hop varieties are in-between and are used for both purposes. Bittering hops, also known as kettle hops, are added at the start of the boil and boiled for about an hour. Aroma hops are added towards the end of the boil and are typically boiled for 15 minutes or less. Aroma hops are also referred to as finishing hops. By adding different varieties of hops at different times during the boil, a more complex hop profile can be established that gives the beer a balance of hop bitterness, taste and aroma."
Okay, so far i liked the Video, but isn't IT so thats CO2 is heavyer than oxygon, that you don't be to afraid about Oxidation, If you Handel carefully ? In my opinion IT only matters If you bottle the Beer Not carefull enough. May rather Nerf ton Siphon some of those inviesible CO2 from the Fermentation Container into the bottle and carefull, bottle from there.. Just a thought
It's true that Co2 is heavier than o2 but gasses mix very easily so the slightest movement of air can mix the gasses. The hops are also covered in air when you throw them in. This is why the best IPA breweries have invented their own methods of hop torpedos etc. to reduce oxygen to zero. I've found that, since moving to a fermzilla and oxygen free pressure dry hopping as well as closed transfer to keg, my beers stay good for much longer.
