How to Extend ESC Wires Correctly preventing Damage

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In the video we state 460μF for every 4 inches of wire used. This is a very conservative value. As little as 220μF can be used for every 4 inches of wire extension used. (A connector moved 2 inches from the ESC contains 2 inches of negative wire and 2 inches of positive wire - The total wire extension is 4 inches)
Extending the battery input wires to your ESC can destroy the ESC. Here is a solution that will prolong the life of your ESC and prevent catastrophic damage that could remove an RC vehicle from your fleet. Now it is important to cover that the damage to your ESC is not something that happens instantly the moment that you extend the wires and plug a battery in. Damage to your ESC happens over time and accumulates. You will never know when the capacitors of your ESC are exhausted and short on life. This is what makes it very important to correct.
Adding a capacitor bank similar to the one pictured can save your ESC.Capacitors can be purchased in smaller capacities and then wired in parallel in order to achieve the required level of capacitance. It is also recommended to use smaller capacitors to form a larger amount of capacitance then using a larger capacitor.
If you plan on extending the wires of your ESC on the battery input side and you have no other choice, add a capacitor bank as close as possible to your ESC. Having the extra capacitance there will reduce the load on the capacitors built in to your ESC, reducing their load.
#rc #radiocontrolinfo #capacitors

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6 янв 2019

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Комментарии : 50

@sdy5001 5 лет назад

I'm so happy to have stumbled across your channel! I have been trying to transition from an ignorant hobbyist driver to an rc/bldc wizard and you have amassed such a rich collection of really pertinent info that you navigate through and share methodically and with such clarity! Thank you brother! Please keep Making these videos (I've 'studied' quite a few thus far ha)

@isprithul 5 лет назад

Same here! Love the channel.

@baxrok2. 4 года назад

Excellent information! Answered all of the questions that I had on my current drag car build. I intend to add a 8800uf cap bank directly to the battery terminals on my Tekin ESC. I'll keep the battery leads as short as I reasonably can and add any length I need to the motor side. Thanks Ryan!

@RCexplained 4 года назад

Right on Baxrok2, glad the video answer all the questions that you had!

@prince4x4 2 года назад

Thank you very much for your sharing, this helpful for beginners like me, i found this problem too.

@RCexplained 2 года назад

Glad it helped

@dennisnoble7116 2 года назад

Awesome video! One question though, what is low enough ESR/impedance for this application? Thanks for your help!

@upperechelon3456 3 года назад

Thank you ....Subscribed.

@phillybrc Год назад

Thank you

@RCexplained Год назад

You're welcome

@jacobs8301. 3 года назад

Hi Ryan, nicely explained. Probably saved my neck as I planned to use over foot long wires to ESCs... Anyway.... Reconsidering the wiring now I would like to ask a question. If I change the gauge of wires battery-esc can I use bit longer wires than original? Specifically Hobbywing xrotor 40A comes with what looks like 18AWG (or even 20AWG - haven't got the caliper to measure precisely) If I replace them with 14AWG can I go a bit longer (probably couple of inches to get the ESC's on the arms) without all the hassle with capacitors?? Thanks for your reply. J

@RCexplained 3 года назад

Hey Jakub, larger diameter wire can help, however, it's not easy to suggest by how much. Capacitors is the cleanest and simplest solution. I believe it is way easier to add the bank vs re-soldering larger wires at the board.

@OhMySack 4 года назад

Would appreciate your thoughts as I'm new to this. Built a big Hangar 9 Carbon Cub. Running an Avian 100A ESC and a Power 60 Eflite, 16x10 prop onn a new 4000mAh 30C. The build guide specs a 6" lead extension [10AWG] from the battery to get the wires to where you can plug/unplug. There are NO capacitors called for. Also, I placed an XT90/EC5 adapter on the battery end of that extension since all my batteries are XT90. Could that be problematic? This all stems from me researching an issue I experienced on my last circuit of the maiden series of flights. I had an engine just quit in the air but luckily successfully dead-sticked it back to the field. I know my LVC was improperly set at 3.4V to enter a Soft Cutoff. That was my mistake. I've reset to 3.0V. My battery had recovered back to about 3.7 by the time I got to it to check. I'm thinking I had a cell on the new battery drop to 3.4V and initiated a LVC but it sure didn't seem like a soft cutoff, motor only went dead rather than to 50%. I had control of plane, still. Not sure if it alarmed as I had a digital checker on my balance plug that was already beeping again, due to a high setting trying to be cautious. btw, I just received a power meter and did a test. It shows my Wp at 2200W and the motor is supposedly capable of 1800W. Amps peaked at 100.3A and I believe burst is supposed to be 85A on the motor. I'm not sure the meter is accurate or if I have an issue to tend to. I have another meter coming to compare. (RCToolKit W150) versus a private label identical to the Turnigy. I'm trying to make sure all is good BEFORE sending all my work back into the air!

@RCexplained 4 года назад

Interesting how the manual asks to extend the wires but do not consider capacitors. Especially if they are not calling out a specific ESC, otherwise there's no way to know if the ESC can handle the wire extension. This is concerning. My preference is to solder on my own connectors rather then use an adapter. This way I get a direct connection and eliminate any extra connections or resistance points. I have many of my ESC's set between 3.2 and 3.4v/cell cutoff. For planes, I do use a soft cut off and have never experienced a full dead stick. If I return the throttle stick to 0% and then back up, the motor would resume at a minimum.

@OhMySack 4 года назад

@@RCexplained Appreciate your time to reply! I did a lot of forensics yesterday and actually ran the plane, well secured, with prop and inline watt meter. My deadstick was self induced by improperly setting the Avian 100A ESC to 3.4V for a soft cut-off. This, coupled with the fact I'm running brand new 4000mAh batteries on a maiden, I hit that low cell V easily once I got into the battery for about 3-4 minutes. I replicated the entire scenario yesterday after watching your videos. I yanked the extension lead after rerouting the ESC leads. My wattage and amperage draw under simulated but likely higher than normal (50%+) throttle settings, was within specs and got me to about 5 minutes of flight time but I stayed into it beyond and induced a LVC on 2 battery tests after resetting the ESC to 3.0V for LVC Soft. Now I know exactly how it goes down. I'll continue with the adapter on my Turnigy's for occasional use but yesterday I bought 3, 5000mAh SMART batteries with IC5 since I have the telemetry capability with all the Spektrum gear, DX9, AR9350T, and Avian 100A ESC. Thanks again for all the info you provide!

@ubreakitirepairit3569 3 года назад

If the heat shrink tubing to the connectors on the motor start shredding (exposing the gold connectors), will they short out on each other?

@RCexplained 3 года назад

They can, drop another piece of heat shrink on it and you are good.

@frank-vq4mx 10 месяцев назад

Hi Ryan. If a person is not hard on acceleration and deceleration of the e.s.c. Will that help in prolonging the life of the capacitors on the e.s.c. ?

@RCexplained 10 месяцев назад

It depends on the ripple voltage. If you are still exceeding max ripple voltage under any acceleration, it's no good. If you can better manage ripple voltage by accelerating slowly, perhaps this can help. But I don't think there would be much difference. It would be better to just hold wide open throttle the entire time.

@LuisZarate-go4wx Год назад

Hi Ryan, excellent explanation. I have one question, how did you arrive at the conclusion of what capacitance to use per inch of cable? Did you base it on a mathematical formula or your practical experience? I'd love to know more about the process behind this decision. Thanks in advance for your reply!"

@RCexplained Год назад

the formula to calculate this value is very complex and time consuming. This is a general rule of thumb.

@whawaii 4 года назад

I'm looking at a situation where I'm wanting to have the batteries about 30 inches away from the ESC. Having heard others explain about problems on having long battery lengths, I had already thought about adding extra capacitors to the ESC side for dampening of the input to the speed control. Your rule of thumb of "460uF for every 4 inches" answers one of my questions. My second question - Is it OK to use one (or two) much larger capacitors in parallel on the ESC side? Or is there some specific reason for having to use several banks of many smaller capacitors? Thank you.

@RCexplained 4 года назад

You can use fewer larger capacitors.

@whawaii 4 года назад

Thanks for the quick response. I wasn't sure if I might be missing something. My plan was to add a an electrolytic with a low ESR between 3300uF to 6800uF onto the PCB where the battery wires solder onto. In the research I've looked at, the larger the uF of the capacitor, the lower the ESR is for it. Since the setup is going to be High Voltage (6s) & High Current (100A), for the power-on rush of charge current to the caps, I'm working on some sort of initial current restricting system for pre-charging the caps just prior to arming the ESCs. To keep the voltage drop/current losses down, I'm installing 25" of 8 AWG from the battery connector to the ESC, replacing as much of the 12 AWG as possible. I might be overthinking things a little bit, but I like to design with as much headroom as possible. Is there anything that you can see, which I might be overlooking? Thanks.

@RCexplained 4 года назад

@@whawaii what you are doing sounds good. Just keep in mind that it is 460 micro farad for 4 inches of wire. 4 inches of wire would mean that the positive lead extends by 2 inches and the negative lead is extended by 2 inches.

@whawaii 4 года назад

Right! Thanks for catching that & clarifying it. While you do say it in your video, it seems like you went through it so quickly I didn't pickup on it initially. For others, so they don't end up accidentally misunderstanding it the way that I did, you may wish to consider editing your description & specifically state that it's "per 4 inches of total wire length added". I'm going to calculate it as 230uF per inch of extending the battery away from the ESC, which is close to the 220uF per inch I remember seeing somewhere else before.Thanks for all the help.

@RCexplained 4 года назад

@@whawaii thanks for the feedback.

@Nosakoss 9 месяцев назад

Hi Ryan! Thanks for the great info! I would like to ask if adding a bit more farads is going to be a problem. So instead of 460μf adding something like 500μf. So if I add a total of 4 capacitors it would be 160μf more capacitance in total. Thanks!

@RCexplained 9 месяцев назад

You will be ok with more capacitance.

@Nosakoss 9 месяцев назад

Thank you so much! @@RCexplained

@Rimetea 5 лет назад

My capacitor blown up on esc and it’s impossible to change, can i add capacitor bank on the wire and use it like that?

@RCexplained 5 лет назад

A capacitor downstream from the esc will not behave the same as a capacitor right on the PCB. I have not tested this exact case and have only added to the existing factory capacitors.

@isprithul 5 лет назад

You better remove the heat shrink and replace the capacitor. Solder the new one right on the board. This is safer.

@uavr1286 4 года назад

Is this still required for Field Oriented Control (FOC) ESCs?

@RCexplained 4 года назад

Hi UAVr128, sorry I don't have any experience with FOC ESC's.

@scottbuck9348 2 года назад

Yo you have some great info, I’m going to subscribe. What state are you in? I’d be willing to pay you to professionally solder on some capacitors on my seal ZTW 200a. I’m also looking for someone that could take a look at my old ZTW 200a that stopped working. Are you on the forums? OSE and intlwaters?

@RCexplained 2 года назад

Hi Scott, I'm in Canada. Your Local Hobby Shop should be able to help you out.

@aeroakram 5 лет назад

I have a servo whose signal, power and ground wires runs alongside a brushless motor's three-phase wires, and the interference was just so bad, especially when the motors were throttled. The twisting of the motor wires didn't help. I even added a ferrite ring around the servo wires, but that didn't help either. Any other suggestions?

@RCexplained 5 лет назад

The best way to remove interference would be by separating your signal and power lines.

@veskovesilev2019 4 года назад

I remember watching this video when ot first came out last year but I never commented on it. Twisting the three AC wires will not prevent interference at all. Actually it could cause problems with the esc's back emf sensing if you had prety long twisted AC wires. Wasim the only way to prevent signal noise in your case is using coax cable for signal and ground and an additional wire for positive voltage. Use core of the coax for signal and the shielding for ground. Tip: you can use old laptop wifi antenna coax, also found on wifi capable TVs, printers and so on. I use coax for Cam>FC>VTX and FC>LED strips. Also had thoughts of replacing ESCs' signal wires bc of DSHOT600 telemetry errors.

@michaelsteuernagle3479 3 года назад

Your getting brown outs your servo could be pulling to much power so it stops then cuts back on

@aeroakram 3 года назад

@@veskovesilev2019 Thanks Vesko. Not sure how I missed your comment until now, but thank you so much brother!

@aeroakram 3 года назад

@@michaelsteuernagle3479 Hi Michael, the servo and BLDC motor have separate power source. So interference is most likely the culprit..

@reevancreation2834 3 года назад

I want extend battery wire

@olinsrc3841 3 года назад

Are you talking about "FLUX CAPACITORS" 😂

@sarip79yt72 4 года назад

I'm tired of hearing it, not demonstrating the way it is

@sarip79yt72 4 года назад

Talking too much is too broad, just talking basics and demonstrating how to do it

@gschaaf713 4 года назад

actually he explains things in a very concise, easy to understand, format. Not sure why you made this comment. You add a capacitor between the two battery leads. What exactly did you want demonstrated?