Potential quick fix. I've had this issue for a couple of months and never got round to fixing it. Heard it can be due to dust so blew harshly into the gaps between the middle mouse button. Worked for a month now with no issues. Before buying all sorts just give that a try first.
My friend, THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH for this tutorial. You've saved me from a massive headache and a lot of money too. There was DUST inside that extremely minuscule hole in the tiny squared box attached to the wheel. I didn't need to switch anything. I cleaned it after disassembling everything, and magically the mouse returned to its former glory. I'm very grateful that people like you exist. Take care and thank you again!
@@zombification What the heck lol right after I saw your comment I literally just blew into the scroll wheel and this problem is finally gone you all are the best
Blow, huh? I have a Razer Basilisk V2 with all optical switches that I ordered on in September 9th of '21. I'm just now checking that and seeing that it was right at 14 months later to the date that my mouse wheel began acting funny. By the end of that gaming session I knew I had a problem. I figured it just needed an adjustment but I wanted a decent mouse to use before I took this thing apart so I ordered the new V3. Now I take the V2 apart and see that there is nothing I can adjust inside. I don't want to take the decoder off and replace it. I'll put it back together and try blowing. Hell, I'll even try a can of compressed air. I'm a bit pissed because I have a history of going through two or three mice per year because the left mb always gives up the ghost. So when I saw a review for the Basilisk V2 with the optical switches I knew I had to have one. Funny thing, I didn't realize it but they sent me an original Basilisk NOT the V2 and I used it for over a year before I checked it. I now use that one with my laptop (which I turn on occasionally) and I've been using the V2 I ordered a year ago as my regular desktop mouse. The original with the mechanical switches is still fine. I'm a bit pissed that the reason the V2 needed replacing was because of the mouse wheel. That's just irritating. I'll put the mouse back together now and see if blowing into it will do anything. Nice to meet all of you responders. Later.
If anyone reads this comment. I didn't take anything apart. I pushed downwards quite hard on the wheel, and wriggled it backwards and forward like a maniac. Seems fixed.
So: for those looking into this video with the same issue concerning the Razer Naga Pro rz01-0342 (the wireless one with interchangeable plates), I've gone and opened up that mouse. Inside is a different encoder by the company Kailh, and when I popped it open, I found that it was coated with a nasty black dust (likely from Chinese manufacturing smog or something similar; it was almost like coal dust) inside. A clean of those contacts with a Q-tip and some alcohol along with * very gently* bending those copper pads back on that green wheel piece inside to give it some extra spring using a screwdriver (along with adding some extra bend in the spring-y piece of sheet metal this guy bent with his fingers; I opted to use some needle nose and very light pressure). As long as you take care to not bend the small sheet metal plate that is covering the whole assembly during your disassembly, you can superglue or UV resin the piece back together while holding it closed with semi-firm pressure from some needle nose; make sure you don't get glue on the green wheel or contacts inside - this will ruin the part. As long as both the contact pads and the spring are both given some life and cleaning, and given your glue/resin job holds up, the unit should work like new. Also, any other issues with the mouse can likely be dealt with here; squirt some electrical contact cleaner into all of your button units and swab off anything weird you might find on the board. After reassembling mine, I haven't had a single issue and I even resolved some other issues I had with some buttons. I have seen elsewhere on the internet that you can actually use the encoder shown here as a replacement for the wireless naga pro, but you will have to resolder the wires and connector to the board from the original encoder to the new one and ensure that they are in the correct order (I saw somewhere a diagram showing which wires go where to control which direction the encoder sends when it registers movement. And considering the mess I saw inside the encoder when I cracked it open, I would maybe actually opt to rebuild my encoder anyway to personally ensure that there isn't smog dust or something else encased inside. To be clear, the wireless Naga Pro uses a Kailh encoder, whereas the encoder listed here is a TTC encoder. They appear to be interchangeable from my research as long as they are rewired with the connector properly. Up to you if you want to rebuild with some glue or just resolder some wires. I don't have a soldering gun rn, so it was just a better option for me to rebuild the original. It would be extremely helpful if someone made a video repairing theirs with the info I've listed here. I'd also happily repair someone else's for the sake of creating a video using it; I'm not in the market to purchase another defective unit purely for the sake of repair since it's not my usual kind of work, and I could very well screw up my next attempt, but it could technically be worth it to refurbish these mice right now if you have the hands for it; a defective unit can come as low as $40 on eBay today, and a refurbished and tested unit can still sell for $90 to $100... That's a nice margin for a $2-3 part fix and maybe 45 minutes of labor to a seasoned pro. It took me a little less than 2 and a half hours for full disassembly, clean and reglue, and reassembly total, and this is my first time ever repairing a part of this size. Seriously, someone with some capital and time or owns an electronic repair shop could just buy up defective units and refurbish them. Or someone could make a straight killing on eBay selling rewired Naga 2014 TTC units to fit the wireless Naga Pro; you'd just need to find a board connector that fits and could be rewired onto it... @rossmanngroup would probably help with that lol.
Huge help bro, bought the parts, took it apart, replaced the bits, put it back together and now my 7 year old mouse is practically brand new again. One suggestion to people who are going to undertake these same repairs, when removing the mouse wheel, dont do what I did and remove the whole bracket, i ended up snapping small pieces of plastic that i had to superglue back together. REMOVE THE WHEEL FROM THE BRACKET! Thanks again! A $20 AUD repair job vs a $140 new mouse.
thanks for this. I wasn't able to pry open the encoder to get to the D spring you mentioned. However, I used needle-nosed pliers to squeeze and sort of dent the metal casing ever so slightly (coming from your principle of trying to tighten the contact point), and it seems to work pretty well, in fact I got the reverse effect from you, now the wheel feels a tad too tight, but hey, it works!
I know this is old, but in case anyone else finds this: I just took the mouse apart and cleaned everything really well with isopropyl alcohol. I also took the wheel out and flipped it to the outside of the little mechanism it pokes into (there is another hole on the opposite side) this made it easy to use the wheel as like a wrench to slowly turn the mechanism while I gently cleaned the top part with alcohol after each turn. I don't know if this last part is needed, but if you look inside the top of the wheel mechanism, you can see a thin little metal piece (I think this is what detects scrolling as the mechanism turns). I used a very small metal tool (I think a paper clip might work) to slightly push that metal piece inward toward where the wheel normally is. In theory, pushing it in like that should help but to be honest, I think just cleaning everything did the trick. I did not put any tape or anything on mine.
Sadly, the metal piece has nothing to do with the scrolling function. The encoder on the wheel is what does that part. Typically done in some sort of grey code (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_encoder) the encoder can tell direction of movement based on current position and previous position.
@NixVo Thank you very much bro, I had this problem with my mouse for 2 years and when I read your comment I didn't really believe it, but I tried it and it worked perfectly. Not all heroes wear capes.
Thank you so much for this video! This was definitely the issue I had and this is how I finally fixed it after dealing with that horrible scroll for far too long than my sanity could take.
Much appreciated. The middle-click on my model of Naga is just dead. Nothing I can do for it outside of re-soldering switches and the like. However, the scroll wheel issue has been resolved, thank you. Different model than yours, but a thorough clean and re-assembly helped get it back in shape for the time being, at least until I can gets my hands on a new Naga to replace this one I've had since 2012.
I am having a Naga Hex since 2014 (my whole current rig was built back then) I was sooo pissed off with the scrolling problem, then last night while playing Space Marine 2 - I was unable to PRESS the Mousewheel Button from every normal angle but had to go in there and be very precise with my inputs (I just used a different Keybind and gave in) today it seems to be working relatively fine, I just cleaned it with pressured air and a little bit of isopropyl solution, the button feels more pressable already but I feel like I should let it dry for a couple hours now. if that however fails I will gladly use your guide and teach myself how to rebuild that thing, maybe even tune it. it's the only mouse I like (yes I am a strong advocate for monogamy when it comes to mice) - tyvm and great video!
As usual point of failure is the thinnest possible metals. Like Steelseries uses the thinnest possible wire gauge and their headphones disintegrate. Thanks for the video! I could aim my duster more effectively at the encoder side of my mouse wheel and things are working better now.
I like the 2012 or older versions. the two side buttons for your pointer finger are very well placed and the mentioned membrane buttons dont press as easily when readjusting your mouse. I have had both the naga molten and now the 2014 naga chroma
Thanks for the instructions. I had 3 different Razr models and both were having the same problems. My next mouse definitely is not going to be a razr :)
Hey, I had the same problem as you, that my middle mouse button wouldn't always register when I clicked it down, so I went ahead and bought a set of two new encoders and mouse skates. Cheap fix, works as a charm. Thanks for uploading this video, saved me from going out buying a new mouse! :)
this worked for me so far, just don't have the snappy scroll anymore, will just have to get used to the sorta more tighter non clicky scroll. but it saved me from buying a new mouse
In case you really dont want to open the mouse, you can try blowing really really hard into the sides of the wheel a couple of times. Worked for me on my mamba!
Friend, thank you very much for the tutorial, I had the same problem and it was solved by lifting the 3 copper plates from the green wheel. a million thanks. greetings :)
You can re-use the feet if you use a heat gun to take them off, get some rubbery style adhesive. Also have a stand by mouse in the event that you end up needing to buy some feet due to bending them. Love the side profile. I think I'll skip the naga and keep using the death adder. I used to be able to put my pinky on the shelf of the naga epic 2012 but I like the height of the death adder great for my hand size. The Epic 2012 sucks, battery life is a hassle for a desktop. You're better off with a mouse that takes actual batteries on the go because you can swap them out and keep going for a long haul. At home you don't need wireless.
I was having this issue with my mouse and really worried i'd have to replace it, i normally avoid razer products but this mouse has been working really well for me outside of the scroll wheel messing up like this, so this video saved me having to replace it ^^
after blewing in the wheel ramdomly during last year when the problem, i reached the no return point last week, so yeah your tutorial came handy, i've changed the encoder just a few minutes ago, and yay brand new mouse working like a charm, so thanks ^^
You a legend! Thank you so much:D I was able to fix mine just by spraying the encoder with some WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner. Ordered some new encoders as well, just in case :)
Thanks, I was considering buying the Naga Trinity since I was enjoying the Naga quite well that I had, but it has the same issue. Gonna try fixing it up and saving 80 bucks. Only bummer about it is waiting for the spare parts to arrive, because they're from China.
I just took it apart and blew the crap outta it and cleaned out some hair and gunk and debris with a screwdriver and now it works! And then replaced the pads on the bottom with black duct tape that I cut with a scissors.
I hope you are still there. I have a question: When the wheel is seated back in the cradle, does the encoder have any freedom of movement? I just took apart a one year old Razer Basilisk V2 and when I spin the wheel the encoder will rock slightly forward or back with the wheel, then when I release it, it rocks back to what I'll call a resting position. I thought maybe this was the problem. After watching your vid and reading some comments below I'm not so sure. Thanks.
Get a can of electrical contact cleaner, unplug the moues and place it on newspaper or paper so you don't make a mess, pull up the buttons and spray the cnotact cleaner into the exposed pots and between the scroll wheel and spin the wheel back and forth to get the contact cleaner soaking through the points. My Diamondback Chroma has been jumping a lot with the scroll and I looked high and low for fixes then realized I have a can of contact cleaner for my simracing rig pedals since the pots are exposed to dust/hair, and I used it on my mouse and voila works again.
So my Razer Naga X middle mouse BUTTON just started not working about 30% of the time. For example, a game i play requires me to hold down the middle mouse button and move the mouse around to adjust camera angle. Now, when i hold down the middle mouse button and glide the mouse a direction, it will stop 'mid glide'. Same thing happens on any web page (using the middle mouse button to scroll up and down) and also on a different computer so that tells me its a hardware problem. I've taken the whole thing apart, cleaned it (for being just over 2 years old it really wasnt very dirty at all), put it back together and same problem. I saw where the button is located and how its pressed.. like i said it works about 70% of the time. Very annoying when it doesnt work :/
Спасибо, у меня модель более новая, проблема была в том что волосок и пыль попадали на лазерный считыватель, у мыши большие корпусные швы - пыль легко попадает, ничего менять не пришлось - только наклейки отдирал осторожно до винта не полностью отклеивая, - затем приклеил обратно
Got a question that you might have some knowledge of. My Wireless naga, doesn't work wired anymore. At first I thought the USB port was gubbed, but checked that and the cable and they're both find. It doesn't charge, or work as a mouse with the cable, but wirelessly it still works, and charges via the wireless dock. This fixed my scroll wheel though! Thanks!
unfortunately did not do the trick for me. Even replaced the encoder, stripped the PCB right down and scrubbed it with IPA and the issue persists. Asked razer CS about getting a replacement main PCB but they won't help. I'd buy the PCB elsewhere but I have the left handed version so I can't source one.
Hey great, I'm gonna give this a try. I've had my Naga RZ01-0104 at my CAD / CAM PC by the laser cutter in the metal fabrication workshop at work, so super dusty environment and wasn't surprised when the scroll wheel started misbehaving. I haven't watched and listened to the full video yet, does this also fix the scroll click not working or anyone know how?
I've had this mouse since 2015 and it started acting strange with this "jumpy scroll wheel" issue in 2018-2019. I've dealt with it for some time and this seems like it's more trouble than it's worth, seeing as how the laser is also starting to fail. I'll just buy a new one and free myself from these issues.
Anyone know if the Razer Naga encoders are compatible across different models? I have the Hex V2 and of course these Chinese listings are not very specific.
Can you link me somewhere I could buy the full housing for the mouse? I've been trying for a long while to try replace the whole body because I broke the mounts on the body when I forced the new lid I replaced on it. Thanks for your help.
same here also an epic chroma, wanna know if someone has found some side panels. because all I've found are just the top shell part. q.q dropped my mouse and a chunk of the front part of the left side panel is chipped
Hello TechClub, I have this problem on my Razer Lancehead Mercury tournament Edition Mouse. Do you think the encoder that you advised for your Naga can fit also for resolving my case ? I mean, the encoder can fit on most of the Razer mouse, like mine, or is it really made specifically for the Razer Naga Mouse ? I'm considering to buy this encoder for my Razer, but before that, I would like to be sure to buy the right item. Thanks for your answer, for this video also and.. Have a nice day ! :)
well i have had the same issue on a death adder and a naga so possibly, try find a picture online of your mouse open, if it uses the same setup then probably will be the issue
Hello there. I have the razer mamba tournament edition, with the same issue. Scrolling up and down is a pain in the ass + my wheel button works 2 out of 10 times. Have been looking online for a solution and I think yours is what comes closer to my issue. Since I can't find a replacement encoder for mamba te, could I buy the razer naga encoder and replace it with this one? Will it work? I don't think there is a replacement encoder for mamba te and that's a shame, cause I really like the mouse and that's the only problem I have
I have the same problem with my Mamba Wireless. It is sad that nothing that Razer is making is reliable. This is the first time in my life I have a mouse that fails at the scroll wheel level. Is that the same encoder for all Razer mice?
If your feet on the bottom of the mouse are worn and you plan on replacing them then this is a good time to go ahead and do the fix giving you a nice fresh new mouse
@@techclub8528 After I open my mouse and put all the parts back into place, the left button and the right button are no longer crisped. They become mushy. I made sure I screw the screws back very tight. Does you know how to fix that?
The first edition of the Razer naga lasted me for years, now with the newest edition after 1 month the mouse wheel stops working properly, I smashed the first one to pieces out of anger after not being able to scroll for a few days and bought a second, and now that one has the exact same problem, never Razer again.
thorough clean of all the parts: encoder specially. From the inside. And some extra pressure while assembling it again. As stated in video: lose contacts (copper ones) can deteriorate or pick up dust.
Ok so after watching this video i found a fast easy fix for this problem that may or may not help you but i found that if i stuck a small screw driver inthe side of the wheel where the box is if u press kinda hard (not too hard lol...) to just bend the contactors to make better contack... so you dont have to dissasemble lol..... but well see how long this lasts. ill try to re comment when it fails again
Yeah, I will never buy a Razer mouse again. I have a Logitech g5 and mx518, both still working after 10+ years. My Naga mouse causes problems all the time, especially the wheel after just 2 years. This is ridiculous.
@@REELmultigaming yeah fuck razer and there shitty cheap products, i have a naga 2014 and a orbweaver stealth both start having issue shortly after i had bought them! never again will i but another razer product!
I had an A4 tech mouse for less than 5$ that doesn't have a mouse wheel problem. But once I bought a Razer Deathadder I have this issue. I only had this mouse for a year.
PEOPLE. i had the same issue all i did was take a straw, put it just on the right side of the wheel and blow.... mouse works like new. take nothing apart. no more jumping scroll
