Thanks for your great videos explaining flatheads for a newbie like me! I just got a 46 Mercury that has a engine number, 73924, stamped on the top front drivers side of the block and A1673 on the bellhousing at the rear, I believe the motor is a 59ab although it has 58ab stamped on the heads. Many thanks for your help regards Grant
An unmentioned ID feature are the characters cast in the pad ahead of the cylinder head, on the right side from memory. There ore two digits ending with "9" which indicates a 239 cube Mercury engine. The first digit indicates the model year, so '99' is for 1939 while '09' is for 1940 & 19 would be for 1941 & so on. The 1945 design was not only standard fitment till '48' but was also standard in regular Ford models in the US as well, hence the 59 identifier, while overseas models retained the 221 cube Ford engine till 1948. 24 stud Ford 221 cube engine models often had the number 81 in the pad between head & water pump. Some wartime engines had 'relieved' blocks. These days this would be called a "Power Slot" but the factory removed some material between the valve area & the bore, down to just above the top ring when at TDC. This allowed better breathing &, obviously, more oomph.
A lot of good information, one mix up would be that 3.187 was the bore size for the Merc 239 engine oppose to the stroke, but there is so much info to remember on the flatheads!
Ford actually introduced using the 8BA-style motors in 1948 in the F-series pickups, while the cars had the 59A style. In 1949 they switched to the 8BA in cars.
I like your videos .I got my first flathead last week an just pulled a head to check condition , it's set-up , not going any farther as i want to video as found an before teardown . The engine is very unique as it was in a boat an has different cooling parts an pieces.
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop i don't really know. i bought it site unseen on a online auction for $53.50 lol . i paid then they gave me directions to a barn where it was covered up . i thought it looked a bit strange , then realized what it was .i will make a walk around video an send it to u. It may be a few days , make me friend on facebook using above name if that's ok .
nute nageldinger I’m pretty sure I just sent you a message on Facebook, it isn’t letting me add you as a friend tho, my Facebook name is Zac Parks, and my business page is Wired Customs LLC
Thank you for this video and the one on "No Start, No Spark" that helped resolve my issue. Are you in Daytona? Part of your intro video shows you coming off the beach at Main St. it looks like. I am in Melbourne, just down 95.
Zack, I've watching, actually trying to get caught up on most of them because I am starting a '31 A project literally from the frame up. Between watching them and reading as much as I can, I've decided to buy a donor vehicle for a parts source for the project. It's a '47 Deluxe Coupe so as I understand the process, I can use the brake parts to put juice brakes on my project along with perhaps the steering column and steering box. It also has a flat head 8 block in it (unknown condition, I guess I'll find out when I get it home). Any advise? Thanks for all the helpful vids from someone else from Virginia
Hi I was told late 36 made a block stamped L B. WITH MAIN bearing shells not babbitt mains. 21 stud water pumps on heads. I was also told u can block water pump holes in 37 and early 38 block s and put 36 style heads on them to look older. I have to babbitt 36 here rebuilt in a nice pkup
I have a flathead not sure the year or what. I bought a 40 ford truck guy said it's a 49 mercury. Well runs good but I'm pulling it to drop in a 289. What's the value on it
I want to change the point to the pertronix electronic points. Just wanted to see which one you recommend. I have a 1951 Mercury V8 flat head the distributor is on the top front passenger side of the engine. Thanks
Great valuable information. I have a 1936 4 door and want to buy the Edelbrook Cylinder Heads but I´m not sure which one should I order? 1126, 1125 or 1128? They all look the same...
From what I know 1125 and 1126 are pretty much the same CC and compression ratio, the 1128 on the other hand is a high performance head, much larger chamber and is taller internally to make more room for high exhaust and intake lift on the valves/big cam
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thanks, so basically it's chossing between a gret looking or a greatlooking + high perfromance I guess. Now what about the manifold? Any suggestion on which one should I Pick? If I am correct, by following yout video I was able to identify my engine which I belive it's a 221 engine.
I have a 1951 mercury coupe v8Flathead. Do you have any videos on how to do a water pump seal replacement kit. And how do I go about purchasing the correct kit for it any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
Thank you for watching, I don’t have any videos of it yet! But I have a set that needs to be rebuilt! For the rebuild kits I like to buy them from MAC’s Antique Auto Parts
A older rebuild calls for Non Detergent, something recently rebuilt I would run modern oil, oil depends on where you live and the weather, in Virginia I run straight 30 weight Penn Grade oil, flatheads have flat tap-pit cams so you have to have high Zinc in the oil, that’s why I choose Penn Grade oil
A friend of mine has a derelict 1939 Ford 1-1/2 ton truck. The heads have " 9T " embossed on them. So this should be a 239 engine, correct? Other than the heads, would this also be a Mercury block?
At this point these engines are so old you can’t identify a motor by what parts are on it, I rebuild Flatheads all the time and it’s rare to find one with all its original parts, the best thing you can do is to measure the stroke, the 239s had a 3.750 inch stroke, everything outside of that could’ve been changed, the block wouldn’t be different, and the serial numbers don’t tell the story
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop It is the original engine, never been messed with according to her father, who bought it new, and parked it in 1955. He has since passed on a few years ago, but his daughter is just now cleaning up the place. She's offered it to me free for the hauling. I'll probably take her up on it, even though it's stuck solid.
How can you tell if an engine is original to a 1946 v8 pickup? Are there other components that have matching numbers? Thank you, video is very helpful.
There is a bunch of little things that can tell you if the engine is correct year for the truck, there is nothing definite that will tell you if it’s original to that exact truck, if you look at my most recent video “no Spark no start” you’ll see my engine in my model A that’s from 1946, the distributor it has is a dead give away of the year of the engine, but they are changeable with different years, but the way to ID a 1945-1948 block is the bore/stroke/ and center water outlets on the block, the bore will be 3.1875, stroke will be 3.750 and the top water outlet will be triangle, with the two bottom water outlets being circular
Good evening hope you are still answer question. I was given a mercury 1951 flathead engine 255 cid the crank is the 4 inch one Anyway I need a set of connecting rods for it. Are they the same as the 8AB connecting rods and piston Where can I go to to find them. Regards
You should have no problem finding 8BA connecting rods, that’s what you need, they will actually be labeled “8 BA” and be 7 inches long, you can find new ones from Scat or Speedway, or you can join the group “The Flat Spot a Flathead Support Group” on Facebook and ask if anyone has some used ones for sale, when it comes to to pistons you WILL have to get 4 inch stroke specific pistons, I would recommend getting some new ones, also found from Scat and Speedway and some other places like White Owl or Facebook
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop That’s good to know. It seems like people would always talk about the 8BA and the 59s having cracks on the forums I’ve read. I guess there’s just not a lot of people on these forums tearing into earlier model Flatties, like the 21 stud. I’ve been wondering if it’s possible to use a crab distributor on an 8BA. What parts would need to be changed to make one fit? The crab distributors just look so much better.
Just bought 46 ford Deluxe ,239 V8, watching your videos! What was the purpose of dual water pumps that my engine has and this engine is bell housing molded with engine !
The water pumps cool their own side of the block individually, at the time that was the best and most affordable technology, ford was revolutionary when he was able to cast the block in one piece, before the Flathead V8 all the manufactures made their engines in multiple pieces and bolted them together. The single cast made the engines more affordable and became the cheapest V8 on the market at the time it was built
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop have Fenton head's on engine 24 studs,the coolant inlet built to head are thermostat,s drop inside? And mechanical temperature sensor with metal tubing to gauges inside car! Can send picture has 3 97 Stromberg carbs ! I'm 70 relearning old school! Lol
The most I’ve ever seen on a flathead is 275c.i. From a Merc crank and 3 5/16ths bore, and that’s pretty excessive and was a full drag block with overheating issues. Most common is a nice .060 or .125 bored over block with 4 inch stroke, 255c.i. Is usually a maxed out street-able block
Help ID this flathead: - The heads are marked “29A” The bell housing casting numbers are “I1433” or “11433” The block surface where the intake mounts is raised NOT flush. The distributer is the crab type. The sides of the block above the oil pan bolts are flat no bulge in the block. Thanks!
Wired Customs LLC -the guy I bought it from thought it was a 42 merc engine, is that right? Is there an engine model number (like 59a, etc) that I can reference when buying parts?
The engine is basically a 59, it’s just before they used the “59” number, it could be a 99a, 29a, but that doesn’t matter when it comes to ordering parts, I would be shopping for 59 parts. As far as it being a Merc engine you would have to take the heads off and check the bore, before WW2 there wasn’t much difference/advantage in the Merc engines
R Claws big bore is for a racing style flathead that’s running .125 over bore, I wouldn’t think your bore is that big, definitely check your cylinder bore size first
can you help identify flathead i have 24 studs and triangle at top and two circles like you said on the bottom of the block on the back it has M1994 stamped on it
You would have to have the original heads, they had the stamping on them indicating what the block is. 59A-6050-A head marked 59A on casting has 77-79 cc chamber. 59A-6050-B head, marked 59AB, has 73.5-75.5 chamber spec, that’s why most call those blocks 59ab instead of specifically saying what it is because it’s hard to know
24 head bolts and bellhousing casting numbers L1763 over a 59. No date on the rear right intake deck. 🤷♂️ Is there anyway to decode the first number? Couldn't find anything.
Some good information here. Some details were a little flawed. The 21 stud was still being used in '38 but was phased out during the production run. They were still referred to as the 81A. The bore for the 221 was 3-1/16 and the 239 was 3-3/16 but they both had the 3-3/4 inch stroke. A lot of differences through the years besides that.
Thank you for the information! I know I messed up when I was trying to remember all the numbers, specifically when I said 3.18 stroke when in reality the Murcs had a 3.18 bore on the 239s
I might have a couple heads you speak of , are you interested in seeing pictures and maybe buying them from me and or helping me into the right direction to sell and appraise?
Hello, Flatheads did not have serial numbers, they only have casting mold numbers, these numbers only let the plant building them know which molds needed repair, the information on what mold numbers built when were never saved and different at every plant across the world. Also numbers were stamped in by engine builders once they were rebuilt, this is how the individual engine builders kept track of warranties and those numbers can’t be used to identify the motors. That’s the bad part about flatheads, they didn’t have a direct serial number to keep track from, you have to identify them by sight, the only other number identification is if it has a “59” in the casting on top of the transmission bell housing.
hi i have a flathead engine its a 24 bolt heads it has two bolts between the water jackets and on the bell housing the number is B5411 can you identfy this for me please thanks
Hello Harvey. I would love to help, so it does sound like you have a 24 stud, do you currently have the heads off? Also I am guessing “59” isn’t written on the bell housing? If there is no “59” on the bell housing it’s a pre WW2 block, making it from 1938-1942 (in USA) I would have to know if the intake surface is raised on the block or not, or how big of a stroke the crank is to be able to narrow it down anymore than 38-42
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop hi mate yeah its 24 stud , and yes your right it DOESNT have 59 on the bell housing and yes the intake surface is raised im not sure on the stroke ?? im new to this so i have alot to learn lol but i love it thanks soo much for your help
@@harveyjones5430 no problem at all, your block is a 1941-1942 block, next step is to remove the heads to figure out if it’s a 221ci or 239ci, look at center vertical row of water passages: If lower 2 are trapezoidal it is a 221, if only lowest is trapezoidal and the center is round it is a 239 Mer/truck
As far as v8 60s, they are the easiest ones to spot, they are a lot smaller and only have two coolant passages in the middle and only have 17 head studs, as for tanks and French flatheads I don’t have experience with these
If I was you I would get a new fan, I would t mess around with trying to fix it, there are a lot of used ones out there, I suggest you to join the Facebook page “The Flatspot A Flathead Ford Support Group” and making a post saying you need one, someone will have one for sale
Do you want to play the Mercury Game with me ? Ya know that red bbq fire truck ? Kinda but different lol So this is already going to be long winded. Actually I’ll see if I hear bk first. That said ., My baby is a 1950 Mercury M68 we built the truck together I learned to drive in it when “your ass is against the back of the seat and the clutch hits the floor” lol So it was Dads baby right “The Merc” I have pics of it obviously lol I put new 216’s in it today back to the story sorry about the side bar lol So Dad had a 289 with a c4 in it when he was looking for/rebuilding the flathead that’s in it right well he wasn’t a cheap shit kinda guy and had a major love for the truck so it’s a 50 Merc M68 Truck in it is a blue flathead k now the heads are “1CM” underlined with made in Canada t stat housing at the front, no intake surface stamping, wide pulleys a Holley 94 the aluminum mechanical fuel pump and an aluminum intake (light ford blue) CMB8 I think I’ll check again when I go see it tomorrow.. anyway that’s enough for now lol how about what can you tell me about “1CM” heads 1951 Canadian Made ? 5:06
I love my 39 flathead here is the first video I made as I'm fixing up my coupe. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FHtsFbzBpD4.html Love what your doing with your model A.
@@nickjervis8123 if the distributor is original to the block then it’s a 1942-1946, but the pumps and distributor could be replaced with one that’s not original to the motor, is there any numbers on top of the bell housing? Is the top of the bell housing built into the block or into the transmission?
@@nickjervis8123 you most likely have a 29a, it’s technically a 59ab before they called them 59s, when it comes to buying parts you would be looking up 59ab
I have a video that I show you a couple different distributors, it’s named “no spark no start” and towards the end I go over the distributors, also if you explained what it looked like I could probably tell you what it is
