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How to install a PID on a Gaggia Classic Pro - DIY, cheap and good looking! 

robert kujawa
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In this video I'll install a PID unit on my Gaggia Classic Pro. As you'll see, it isn't that complicated and really takes the humble Classic to a higher level!
00:24 - Introduction
02:10 - A list of parts
05:58 - What NOT to do first
06:50 - Disassembling the machine
09:27 - Installing the temperature sensor
10:55 - Making connections
15:10 - Installing the solid state relay
18:44 - Tidying up the cables
20:01 - Connecting the PID
22:45 - Cost summary
24:15 - Autotuning
24:51 - Was it worth it?
In contrast to the most popular solutions in the market, my PID will sit at the back of the machine and be no bigger than the unit itself. It will also be completely reversible and much cheaper than ready made solutions!
This clip can also be treated as a how-to instructional video for anyone wishing to go the DIY way. Please note that I'm only using the PID to control the brew temperature. Steaming will remain controlled by the Gaggia's stock thermostat. It just overrides the PID and heats up the boiler to the factory preset steaming temperature.
Links to parts [None are affiliate links]
bit.ly/3gL9c95 - XMT 7100 PID unit
bit.ly/3xgAHhc - PT100 precision temperature sensor
bit.ly/3wnZD6l - Fotek solid state relay 25Amp
amzn.to/3xamPFg - cable sleeve (different widths available)
amzn.to/2RSAge0 - magnetic tape (example link, different widths available)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:367... - 3D printed case file (print this locally)
bit.ly/3pPphP0 - the unattractive aluminium enclosure if you wish to go that route
You will also need:
1. About 60cm of SiHF 2x0,5mm2 cable connecting the PID do the SSR
2. About 60cm of 1mm2 (17AWG) cable to deliver power from the Gaggia to the PID
3. About 60cm of FLRY 1.5mm2 cable to connect the SSR to the Gaggia
4. Ring crimp connectors that fit the SSR need to be for M3 bolt, here's an example: amzn.to/3xcWBCq
5. Two piggyback connectors and two spade connectors will also be needed, it's probably a good idea to buy a set, like this: amzn.to/3qOx9Rq or find a shop where you can buy those per piece.
The video that turned me into a home espresso fanatic, by the ever brilliant James Hoffmann:
• The Best Cheap Espress...
If you don't want to go the PID way just yet, here's an excellent video how to get the most out of your Gaggia Classic Pro on The Majestic Bean Channel:
• How To Get The Best Re...
Wonderful video by Damian Witoński on how to mod your XMT7100 to control two SSRs and therefore also the steaming temperature:
• PID XMT7100 dual SSR m...
Music credits:
"Montauk Point" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
"Perspectives" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...

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12 июн 2021

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Комментарии : 387   
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
Thanks everyone for watching and such a positive response! There's a couple of points I need to clarify that I missed in the video: 1. Autotuning: XMT7100 PID will keep your brewing temperature within 2-3 degrees from the set value after autotuning, but you need to start autotuning once the machine is fully heated up (give it 15 minutes of idling). You can reduce this variation even further with custom settings, I just didn't see the point as it's good enough for me. Thanks to Murat Öztürk for pointing this out! The most commonly used parameters for PID on a Gaggia Classic are the following: P: 4, I: 60, D:15, Souf: 0.2, ot: 2, PSB: -008 The settings found by autotuning in my case were: P: 4.1, I: 66, D: 18, Souf: 0.2, ot: 2 2. I've added a section about cables in the video description, this was a popular demand in the comments. 3. I've skipped modding the PID for steam temp, because it involves soldering and I wanted to keep this tutorial as simple as possible. With the temperature visible on the PID display I can comfortably work with the stock thermostat. I turn the steam button on, wait for the PID to show about 140 degrees, then purge the wand and start steaming at about 145-150 degrees. The "steam ready" light won't turn on during steaming, indicating that the heaters are working during the process, which is what we want. The stock thermostat kicks in at about 155 degrees in my case, but there might be some sample variation with different Gaggias.
@luisdellipiani4464
@luisdellipiani4464 3 года назад
Hi Robert, I just finished installing the PID as per your video tutorial and is working good, but I have noticed that the (AL) light on the right-hand side of the screen which I assume it's an alarm never comes on, is it necessary for it to be on, or am I alright like that.
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
It comes on once your reach the alarm temperature, so you can theoretically use it as a thermostat. That's how you use XMT7100 for steaming, but you still need to modify the PID to control two SSRs. You're fine, don't worry about this LED :)
@luisdellipiani4464
@luisdellipiani4464 3 года назад
Thanks a lot, Robert, So I won't bother with it as I am only using the PID for brewing and then purging at 140 after I hit the steam button then steaming at 145-150 as you mentioned in another comment, and it's going pretty good for me, just another question that might sound a little stupid, but would you happen to know if by default the PID reading is in Centigrade, thanks again for your help.
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
Yes, the default is Celsius. If you need Fahrenheit, then press SET, input the password 0089 and press SET again, scroll down do CorF and change the value. Approve choices by pressing SET again, scroll to "End" to finish.
@luisdellipiani4464
@luisdellipiani4464 3 года назад
Then I should be alright, I'm used to Celsius, the only reason I asked is that although I got the PID set at 103 the water coming out of the group head is reading 85 according to the thermometer I'm using, the one that clips on for frothing milk, should I increase the values on the PID, or is that perfectly normal, thanks a lot.
@peterfustos1230
@peterfustos1230 2 года назад
Thanks a lot for sharing this. Following your instructions I just installed a PID on my 1999 Gaggia Classic and it works perfectly. :)
@thorkil_1487
@thorkil_1487 2 года назад
Thank you for the good tutorial Robert. I did the install myself two weeks ago and it has worked flawlessly ever since.
@g.g.4010
@g.g.4010 2 года назад
Finally after several months with this PID: thank you so much for your EXCELLENT tutorial! Your video pushed me to do it after months of guessing. Getting all the parts was easy with your description. The PID works flawlessly and made all the difference. Best wishes from Germany! 👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻
@DrDadjoo
@DrDadjoo 3 года назад
Nice job Robert! Wonderful video a great addition to the community, really helpful. I hope you enjoy your new and improved Gaggia!!
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
Thank you! I'm glad I could contribute to the Gaggia users family
@ColorsofSoundYouTube
@ColorsofSoundYouTube 2 года назад
Amazing! Probably the only video on RU-vid that talks about the full assemble with the list of components. I have the same kit which I installed 2 months ago (I bought it as a bundle). Temp surfing was a horrible thing... But now, most of my shots are bitter haha. Still trying to wrap my head around the temperature variable in process.
@ropehitch
@ropehitch 2 года назад
Amazing video. I really appreciate that you specified the parts and even the source. That is the greatest obstacle for me - getting the stuff. Once I have the stuff I can follow good instructions, which you have definitely provided. I read all the comments to understand better and I have to comment that you have certainly helped many, many people save about $150. We appreciate you, your time, and effort. 🙏🙏🙏❤❤❤
@oxdudepoege
@oxdudepoege Год назад
Thanks for this video. This was very helpful and by far the best pid mod video on RU-vid
@SoulSniped
@SoulSniped 2 года назад
hey Rob! thanks again a ton for the detailed video... i successfully completed the mod on GCP, both for Brew and Steam... More than the need, doing it, was the motivation toward fulfilling experience one gets, i bumped through endless number of times i watched Your Posts including this one, the joy of which (task completion) is endless... From Bean-To-Cup...-...PID'd :)
@justinstraver24
@justinstraver24 2 года назад
Hi Robert! followed your instructions start to finish and it worked great. This has saved a lot of money and time.
@justinstraver24
@justinstraver24 2 года назад
From the Netherlands the cost were about 66 euro's(excluding some of the connectors and all tools). It took about 3 months for all parts to arrive(maybe due to covid and delays, but I wasn't in a rush). Once all was there I spend roughly 2-2.5 hours to do the mod.
@EweJinTee
@EweJinTee 2 года назад
Thank you for your video. I was able to follow closely and complete my PID DIY installation. I didn't thought I can achieve it but I did! Coffee tastes so much better now! Cheers
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
Thank you for your kind words! Congratulations on your mod!
@knispler666
@knispler666 Год назад
Very nice and well adjusted instructional. The tempo of explanation makes it easy to follow without getting bored. I was also hooked by the James Hoffmann Video and bought a used Gaggia with the intention of modding it - with your video, I feel confident to start.
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 Год назад
Best of luck with your Gaggia! :)
@PaulLemars01
@PaulLemars01 2 года назад
Thank you so much for this video. I couldn't justify to myself spending $220 for the PID mod but you have put the option back on the table. This will be happening to my Classic Pro in Seattle very soon. Once again thank you.
@stephanecaron7203
@stephanecaron7203 3 года назад
Great video, clear camera angles and naration, great choice of music, just enough. I want to do the same thing to my GCP but go one step further by doing my pid with a controller or a RPi. This will help me a lot, thanks !
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
Thank you so much! I'm very happy that the video will be useful to you, that's it's purpose! :)
@DrDadjoo
@DrDadjoo 3 года назад
Stephane, I want to do the same! Did you see that one post on the Reddit where he placed the RPi in front of the drip tray? Looked amazing. Please let me know how it goes, I will definitely need some help trying to do the same.
@ricky8523
@ricky8523 2 года назад
Thankyou very much for taking the time for making this video
@slayer2022
@slayer2022 Год назад
this is a great and thorough video, very nice to see a cheaper option to the PID kits. I'd love to see a gagguiuno video as well done as this!
@oldgarnek
@oldgarnek Год назад
Really great video with all details needed :) Thanks a lot!!
@OctavianVesa
@OctavianVesa 2 года назад
Best instructional video seen in ages! Clear and concise from the start to the end, with all needed parts and tools, and also tips & tricks! Many thanks, now I'm waiting for the parts from Aliexpress 😂
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 Год назад
Thank you so much!
@meamjustme
@meamjustme 2 года назад
Thanks mate. I recently got an old model and installed a diy kit using a written guide. Went perfectly untill i decided last week to invest in a brand new machine. Tried to convert the controller over to that and had some issues with the wiring. Getting 170 volts when the machine was not running. The new one has that auto timer board on it so it just wires differently then the old one does. Just peeking where you tapped the power solved my isseu. I was tapping the brown wire coming out of the plug instead of the blue one. Now the PID actually turns on and off with the machine. Saving me another mod i was almost going to buy.
@elenakalugina3758
@elenakalugina3758 Год назад
thanks for the video! Connected, everything works. Espresso has become better! Informative and clear video!
@MrMalakees
@MrMalakees Год назад
Awesome video. Thanks so much for putting this up here!
@emiljohansson8213
@emiljohansson8213 Год назад
I don't even own a Gaggia but this video was worth it
@albertogonzalez01
@albertogonzalez01 3 года назад
Great video and really really tks I hope this video remains is just what I was looking for. Tku good man
@NikolaosTsarmpopoulos
@NikolaosTsarmpopoulos 2 года назад
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Use a lighter to melt the sleeving at its two ends. Careful to put off the fire very quickly if the sleeving gets alight. You can do this in the sink if you aren't comfortable with this process.
@lefterismichopoulos9025
@lefterismichopoulos9025 2 года назад
Very good job. Very well made video. Thank you.
@n1ckthegr33k6
@n1ckthegr33k6 Год назад
I done this upgrade on my gaggia and honestly was one of the best things I ever done. All you need is time and some tools, another very important tip is to change the steam arm to single hole for insane results.
@blikzems
@blikzems Год назад
Excellent vid and instructions! With regards to the sleeve, once all wires are in, put a dab of high temp hot glue and slip a strip of decent heat shrink over it, this will keep the sleave in good condition until you use a heat gun to loosen it up again
@murataht
@murataht 2 года назад
Thanks man ! Great video, very informative et very clear !
@NicklasSandager
@NicklasSandager 2 года назад
Thanks for a great tutorial video Robert 👍
@GordoOso
@GordoOso 2 года назад
thanks a lot for the video, it was helpful to improve my gaggia. Greetings from Chile. Muchas gracias por el video, fue util para mejorar mi gaggia. Saludos desde Chile.
@christianluers7558
@christianluers7558 2 года назад
Thanks a lot for this video and instructions!
@ChuckNorris-bf5cj
@ChuckNorris-bf5cj 2 года назад
Thank you very much! I just finished installing mine.... and it's 12:40am. A bit late for a coffee. Damn :)
@sookinator
@sookinator 2 года назад
Great video. I hope to do this to my 2002 Gaggia in the future!
@bobber7070
@bobber7070 3 года назад
Great work Robert, looking to do this myself soon 👌🏻
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
Thanks and good luck!
@TheMrJuhis
@TheMrJuhis Год назад
Amazing video! Very detailed and easily understandable, with great camera angles. I happened to buy a used ascaso dream (thermocoil) for a very affordable price that i had to buy it as my first espresso machine. I have enjoyed the taste of the shots, but there is room for improvement. For now i am satisfied with other accessory improvements, but I am really curious about installing a PID into it. I found out that couple of people have actually done this mod for this machine, but there ain't any detailed information or guides for this. I wonder how much would the installing differ from this great example of yours.
@richardurbanovsky5383
@richardurbanovsky5383 2 года назад
I just finished mine mod (gaggia new classic). Everything perfect. Thank you for this howto. I bought some little different version of XMT7100 - different default values and little more options. This was pain at the start as it was still heating (never stop) or never heating. And one note at the end. You dont need to put boiler out (with all fittings on bottom). Just unscrew it , unplug top cables and rotate to be able to get to the temp control senzor from bottom.
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 Год назад
I decided to take it out for clarity. If I didn't it wouldn't be very clear in the video. The procedure might come in handy in case anyone needs to change the oring in the boiler.
@kabukow
@kabukow 10 месяцев назад
Hi, can you say how you handled your PID? I seem to have the same issue, it keeps heating and have different looking setting from the start - shows value around 90-100 slowly growing (but no decimals like in celsius)
2 года назад
Man, thank you so much for this video!!!
@mbrylewski
@mbrylewski Год назад
Excellent video!
@ensger
@ensger 5 месяцев назад
First of all, thank you for the great video and the effort you have put into this. Regarding the control parameters of the PID, these are generally too conservative due to the autotune process and therefore the intrashot differences are very large. I have found the following setup to be optimized: P=1.6; I=10; D=3 runs stable and fast for me.
@threehanded8853
@threehanded8853 2 года назад
Thank You!! I completed everything today: cut opv spring, lamp dimmer switch on right side in front of steam knob, installed manometer on front right, moved Gaggia logo left, setup xmt7100 for 2 relays, pulled a perfect shot, and I now know the pressure is at 8.5 bar. You helped a lot!
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
Wow, you've really given this humble machine a boost! I bet it can punch way over its weight now :)
@threehanded8853
@threehanded8853 2 года назад
@@robertkujawa3504 Here’s how it pours, what do you thin?… SAY ESS-SSPRESSO! Perfect Espresso/Cortado on Upgraded Gaggia Classic Pro GCP ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-val-K-Z_YCM.html
@peterszilvasi6807
@peterszilvasi6807 3 месяца назад
Hi Robert thanks for the video. Didn’t want to spend too much on a machine so I got a classic, but a pid set is 220€ now so I followed your list and orderes the parts from aliexpress, here in May, hope everything goes well (I have the new 2023 machine)
@davidtaylor6124
@davidtaylor6124 Год назад
Great video, thanks!
@evertschone1
@evertschone1 2 года назад
I used this guide to mod my gaggia, it worked very well. Thanks for the clear instructions! I have a newer gaggia, I put my SSR tilted sideways on the left side of the ventilation grid, so above the other electrical stuff . This way it doesn't block the water funnel but can still be bolted to the vent-grid, which is good for some extra cooling. I also used Damian Witonski's guide to make the pid-alarm regulate the steam. But I contrary to his guide used the same SSR for the steam and brewing. I made the pid alarm output route through the steam switch into the ssr, so parrallel with the pid brew output, this works because steam is higher temp than brew, so it just 'overwrites' the brew pid signal when the steam switch is turned on.
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
That's an excellent tip! I didn't think about using the same SSR, but you're right, the temp ranges don't overlap, so there's no reason it won't work! Thanks for this great input!
@cazsplinter8900
@cazsplinter8900 2 года назад
Hi @evert S. do you happen to have a wiring diagram for the single SSR solution? That would be a great help. Thanks.
@cazsplinter8900
@cazsplinter8900 2 года назад
Hi Evert, I've also got the newer Gaggia (with eco timer) and can't find a wiring diagram. Do you have any drawings you could share for how you did this? Thanks.
@evertschone1
@evertschone1 2 года назад
​@@cazsplinter8900 Hey, I drew some of the wiring, on top of the US gaggia classic 2018 wiring diagram to show how I wired it up. The EU version should be the same for the steam part of the circuit. But the power wires are different. I used this guide (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WNs3uSLA4Ts.html) To remove the eco timer on my EU gaggia, So thats why there are some more loose wires in the picture. Also, please note that if you use 1 SSR, the steam-ready light will never turn on. instead the brew ready light will, and you can see the temp. on the PID so it's not a problem I think. imgur.com/a/YniAkSU
@mathew5164
@mathew5164 2 года назад
@@evertschone1 Hi, how is the Mod holding up with just 1x SSR? Can you help with selecting the correct pins when wiring up to the Steam switch? I have the 2012 Gaggia Classic 230V model - the steam switch in the middle. Unfortunately youtube won't let me post a link.
@PivotHigher
@PivotHigher 2 года назад
Thank you Robert!
@wolfiwolf5407
@wolfiwolf5407 2 года назад
Hi Robert, thank you. I followed your guide to add a PID to my Gaggia and it works like a charm! Also, the 3D-printed case is awesome, i am so happy that i did not buy the alloy one!
@spacemanx5578
@spacemanx5578 2 года назад
Thank you so much!!! I have never done anything like this before, but your video was so straightforward and clear that even I was able to mod my Gaggia without any issues. Couldn’t have done it without your video!
@maximus3730
@maximus3730 2 года назад
great video
Год назад
I'm planning to implement this mod later. In my local market M6 thermocouples are so common. Even I might have one somewhere at hope. Hope I can find an M4 locally, but what I noticed M6 is the standard for most of the industries or above.
@rickseneris
@rickseneris 2 года назад
Great job! The next thing you ought to consider is to add an electronic module (SCR electric motor speed control) to control the vibratory pump output to regulate group head pressure as a profiling device.
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
Does this make sense without an in-line pressure gauge?
@ylleKkcirtaPnadnerB
@ylleKkcirtaPnadnerB 2 года назад
Another thank you for a great video. Nice to see the wires at least sleeved too. Maybe an inline fuse protecting the small wires supplying power to the PID, just in case? I'm kind of fancying this mod, plus a remote pressure gauge, a dimmer module, and maybe an auber shot timer, all stacked in a specially designed 3D printed box for the left hand side. Eye opener about not really needing the steam alarm control and leaving the stat in as a fail safe
@jmsaffroy
@jmsaffroy 2 года назад
Thank you for posting this. I had been thinking about adding a PID to my Gaggia Classic for a while, and the details you gave helped me get started (in particular, the links to parts known to work, and the tip about silicon cables, which I'd have overlooked otherwise). It worked out fine, and my machine is so much easier to use now! I think it's a pity that a PID isn't a more common feature of single boiler machines. One comment: after reading somewhere that cabling across Gaggia units wasn't always the same, I took some time to trace every cable in mine and make a wiring diagram, and then I decided to power the PID from connectors on the front panel, and not pull any cable from the mains connectors in the back. My reasoning is that it might be slightly better for safety, because the entire circuit remains between the power switch and the thermal fuse: First, if the fuse blows, the PID doesn't remain powered. Second, when the power switch is off, most of the circuit is only connected to the neutral, as opposed to the phase (assuming proper wiring in the wall socket, which incidentally isn't the case for me).
@msigala
@msigala 2 года назад
Can you share your wiring diagram?
@v0idgrim
@v0idgrim 2 года назад
I would also be interested in this.
@vascharis
@vascharis 2 года назад
Wiring diagram if possible to share would help me as well! Good idea!
@goldmundverdier
@goldmundverdier 2 года назад
The boiler PID mod is easy. Did it over the weekend and my pulls now are much better and consistent. Thanks for making this video. I hope you can do another one on how add the second SSR for steam. For those of us who are more ambitious, stuck at home and are not afraid of modifying/soldering the PID controller, it will be a great project.
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
I'll eventually muster the courage to do that, not yet ready! I'm getting consistently great results with the current setup, so the incentive to modify it for steam is weak. If I do this, I will probably use the existing SSR (single relay) to control the steam as well.
@juiffeePH
@juiffeePH Год назад
Great.. I'm waiting for my XMT7100, SSR relays and Thermocouple🙂
@cde875
@cde875 10 месяцев назад
You might want to add thermal paste also to the backside of the SSR to help cool it with the metal backside of the machine :)
@TheCrash1983
@TheCrash1983 2 года назад
thank you
@Nickporter17
@Nickporter17 3 года назад
I wish this video came out a week sooner before I bought a pre-made PID package for the classic. Anyways I hope some people get some good use out of it.
@cheezenation9182
@cheezenation9182 2 года назад
Where did you buy it at
@Nickporter17
@Nickporter17 2 года назад
@@cheezenation9182 Mr shades. I've loved it.
@badzilla7491
@badzilla7491 2 года назад
Here's a tip, when installing the wire sleeve. Use a lighter and melt the ends together to stop them from fraying.
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
I know this trick now, I wish I knew it back then :)
@drszczecin
@drszczecin 2 года назад
I've done it thanks to You! But have to admit that aliexpress case is terible. It took me few days to order a 3D printed one and now it looks great! So tips for anyone for not going the half way and do it properly with printed case.
@tag243
@tag243 2 года назад
Ufff, seems i'm ready for a new project ))))
@JonathanNL93
@JonathanNL93 2 года назад
Great video, I’ve finally installed my pid to my 04 classic. Strangely enough my auto tune seems to take forever. The blinking AT light never goes of. It does keeps the machine at 103
@richard4437
@richard4437 10 месяцев назад
any differences in parts or instructions from the classic pro compared to the classic? i have an 07 :)
@AdastraRecordings
@AdastraRecordings 2 года назад
Thhis is brilliant, I hate the look of a PID on the side of the machine as well.
@makkek69
@makkek69 2 года назад
Anyone else yell at their screen when the screw bit was left in the boiler? 😂😂😂
@lebedev_usa6459
@lebedev_usa6459 3 года назад
Hi :) I started the same way, after J.Hoffman video. Got the Gaggia Classic for 100$ (was described as faulty). Owner never cleaned shower screen and used with pressurized baskets only.. 🤪 After 3 min clean it was good and running )) Having same consistency issue (one day shot is wow, other morning is noooo...) Installed the PID, easily removable way. Yeah, got better. But then I installed the temp sensor on the group - and found that hot boiler doesn't mean hot group.. it is taking up to 20 min (without steam help). Consistency improved, but still not the best. Not mentioning the 9 bar adjustment, brass plate, IMS shower, bottomless ptf.. Checked the temp drop during the shot and it was.. a lot. Around 3'C. (Just google temp stability of Lelit Anna, Ranch.Silvia.. there is no such drop start 92-end 91.8) So.. I went further. Got pre-heating copper tube wrapped around the boiler and... pump dimmer to adjust the pressure on the fly ) After all of this - result was good. But the workflow.... complex! Look to the temp gauges, pressure gauges, time, volume. Too much for the 30 g of the hot DRINK )))) Removed all the stuff and sold for 260$ (without any mods, just good working condition). Found a used Expobar Office machine, 300$, almost got it, but changed mind and got Flair Pro 2 + Bellman CX 25 + kettle. Happy for now.. for now.. almost.. )))
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
Ha! Seems like Mr Hoffmann was right about one additional thing: this really is a hobby and a rabbit hole. I've been enjoying the journey, but it might be just too much for someone who just needs their espresso fix. Thanks for sharing!
@chopsonyou2007
@chopsonyou2007 2 года назад
Wow i thought the flair looks way more complicated to use …. I don’t understand how you can have that big a temperature drop from the boiler to the brew head..… the brew head is basically bolted to the boiler… also couldn’t you just use a temperature offset ?
@lebedev_usa6459
@lebedev_usa6459 2 года назад
@@chopsonyou2007 The temperature drop is because a small boiler is filling with a cold water and at the end of the shot, the mixture of hot and cold water is going to the pack. The drop of temp is what I measured, may not be 100% accurate.
@vladnicu3655
@vladnicu3655 2 года назад
Hello Robert, can you make a video about the other customizations the you made for your machine? Maybe you can add links with the bottomless filter etc... Thanks!
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
Will do once my new kitchen is ready :) thanks!
@MK-dm6pz
@MK-dm6pz Год назад
Great video - thank you! How important is using a thicker cable for the PID power connection? I have an 18 AWG silicone insulated cable at hand, but was wondering if this may be too thin. Thanks
@maximkatsuro2186
@maximkatsuro2186 Год назад
Thank you for this amazing tutorial, I have only one question, which way did you connect the Ground and VCC to the PID, or perhaps it doesn't matter because its DC? Thanks anyways
@pootklopp
@pootklopp 2 года назад
Thanks for the video it was very helpful! I have 1 question and 2 suggestions: Q: Do you know what the SU value is in the 0001 menu? I saw another video it was called extraction temperature with it set to 105. Is that just the default temp the PID is aiming to reach? Suggestions: Instead of removing the entire steam wand I just used a pair of needle nose pliers pull the quick release pin that can be seen in your video at the 7:51 mark at the steam wand hole. I also found that I did not need to disconnect the hose or solenoid to complete the thermocouple install.
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
The default value for SU [set value] is 80 degrees Celsius, at least on the unit I ordered and linked to in this video. It's the temperature displayed on the PID screen, so very easy to check and adjust. Good tips regarding the disassembly, might be useful to others. The reason I dismantled more than I needed was for the clarity of presentation. This way I could remove the boiler and show the steps in detail. It's also good to know a full disassembly procedure in case your 3-way solenoid valve ever gets clogged.
@RamySLR
@RamySLR 2 года назад
Great instructions Robert. Excuse the noob question but I am new to this. Is tapping wires same for the 120v machines (US model)? I have the brown wire on the brew bottom at the same location as yours, but at the socket, I have a white wire at the bottom instead of blue. That being said, the power button has gray and white wires on top instead of blue/orange in your model. FYI my model is Nov. 2020 with the wider funnel.
@samnovellini3929
@samnovellini3929 3 года назад
Hi There, great video. I noticed in the comments questions and answers about different parts that are not listed in your summary - is this correct? Do you have a link to the full listing and description of parts that will be needed? Thanks again for the video! Amazing effort and I think the first of its kind on youtube!
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
Yeah, I intend to update the video description with everything I missed in my commentary. Stay tuned, it's coming shortly!
@manchovie
@manchovie 3 года назад
@@robertkujawa3504 Thanks for updating the description since I last looked. I'm going to give this a shot. :)
@luisdellipiani4464
@luisdellipiani4464 3 года назад
Great tutorial, I've been searching for an explanation like this for quite a while, finally, I found it I have ordered all parts you recommend from Ali express but not sure what size of the silicon insulated cable to order, can you please tell me what AWG or MM you used
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
For connecting the PID do the SSR I used SiHF 2x0,5mm2 cable and for delivering power from the Gaggia to the PID I used 1mm2 cable (17AWG). For connecting the SSR to the Gaggia I used FLRY 1.5mm2 cable.
@luisdellipiani4464
@luisdellipiani4464 3 года назад
Thanks a lot, I'll get ongoing looking for them
@shikharkalsi9692
@shikharkalsi9692 Год назад
Thanks to you i was able to do this install about an year ago, however as of recently my XMT7100 PID just stopped powering on. Light on the Gaggia power button turns on, no heat, and i can't tell if the PID or Relay are getting any power. Any troubleshooting steps you recommend? I checked all the cables and connections, they seem fine. I have a multimeter if it'd be useful, but I'm not familiar with how to use it (it's an AstroAI Multimeter 2000), thank you so much for your help.
@sAmiZZle82
@sAmiZZle82 3 года назад
Great video! I saw in a another tutorial thermal paste was applied to the metal surface of the SSR relay. Is this not required?
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
My SSR is working well below it's rated specification, that's why I took my chances without the paste - just didn't want to make a big mess. It's been fine for a month now, time will tell if this was a mistake. By all means, go ahead and add some paste if you want to be on the safe side. It certainly won't hurt.
@strongteee
@strongteee 2 года назад
just bought myself a gaggia classic and already want to do this, so thank you very much for the video! Is there anything you'd do different from the process in the video if you had to do it again? Also, what is that grinder, it looks beautiful.
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
The grinder is a Eureka Mignon (the classic, second edition, still available in some places). As for what I'd do differently: I'd use the lighter tip do the sleeve, it was a huge pain to do and I wish I knew about the technique back then.
@donnydew4962
@donnydew4962 Год назад
Thank you so much for this "how to". I did this PID mod with single SSR ( Brew temp only ). I have question, is it safe to use the steam switch? Does the steam temperature has its maximum to stop heating? Because we cannot control the max steam temperature on the PID with single SSR. What happen if i swtich on the steam but did not use the steam? Will the boiler gets broken? Or it will just stop heating the boiler at certain temperature?
@pierregrandguillot4261
@pierregrandguillot4261 Год назад
Hello Robert, nice video, and you almost convinced me to do the mod. I have 1 more question before I do it : you mentionnend your machine is running on 220v. Will the connections and harware be the same for 110v?
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 Год назад
The PID unit I linked to can work with a wide range of voltages, 110V included. As for the connections, please refer to the wiring diagram available at Whole Latte Love. I have no access to a 110V machine, so can't give you a 100% sure answer.
@katanamd
@katanamd 2 года назад
Greetings! Thank you for your excellent video! I installed mine a little differently to my liking but made all connections as you did! I don't see any reason to deviate from your wiring as it seems the most efficient way (Just replacing the thermoswitch with the controller and thermocouple). How ever when I flip my steam switch now it just keeps heating and heating. I am not sure why. It kept going past 170 before I shut it down. I don't see why the steam thermoswitch shouldn't still regulate the temp to 145. Perhaps you have input on this? Thank you again! I've been enjoying tinkering with my Gaggia.
@SoulSniped
@SoulSniped 2 года назад
hi Weese! i was attempting to do the sketches/schematics last night and just bumped this query on situation of yours that got me thinking how can i repeat it... One (but not likely that You haven't hit it already) is when i've not set the High Value of PID to say, 140, default value is 600 deg. c for PT100. Second, if my Steam Thermostat remains closed (can be any reason of several e.g. faulty thermostat, wires/terminals on the outside get shorted in Thermostat route to Steam Switch, Grounded Steam Thermostat accidently) etc. In latter case the situation will over-ride the discharged SSR, i.e. even when it's open after Set Temperature is reached, the circuit via Steam Switch and its thermostat will appear to close it. Check wiring routes with close attention once, and boiler body for earthing leakage.
@jamessabatka7451
@jamessabatka7451 2 года назад
Which wires do you plug into 1 and 2 on the PID? Do you connect the wire from the brew switch to 2 since that is ground?
@mathew5164
@mathew5164 2 года назад
Hi Robert, just a question about PID settings. The settings found by autotune (P:4.8, I: 78, d: 19) produce an intrashot stability of around 5c. I was wondering if you had any luck with trying custom settings? I have seen people achieving an intrashot stability of 2-3C, so I know it can be improved. Edit: After some trailing different settings I found online, the best result is still with a setting found by autotuning (P:4.1, I:21, d:005). Intrashot stability is now around 4c with a 30s runtime. The small boiler on the Gaggia is a limiting factor.
@3DSTools
@3DSTools 2 года назад
Hi Mathew. I'm having the same issue of intrashit stability. What is your Gaggia model and boiler capacity? I will try the settings you pointed here!
@juras0725
@juras0725 3 года назад
Hi, first of all, I would like to thank you for the really informative and useful video. Do you know what material was used for 3D printed case? Is any temperature-related requirements?
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
Hi Juras, thanks for the kind words! As for the material, I honestly don't know, so I relied on the printer's expertise. I described the use to him and I think he chose a food-safe and temperature-resistant material, but there's really no need for this. The PID remains outside the machine, so is always cool and doesn't come in contact with the coffee.
@skateandmore
@skateandmore 2 года назад
PLA is cheap and would offer enough resistance to sit outside the machine. It starts to soften @ around 60°c.
@senegalus
@senegalus 2 года назад
hi robert, thanks for that awesome video. i am also thinking about buying this machine and modding it. can you tell me if it's possible to do 2-3 double shots after another (maybe with some minor help like using steam wand to bring temp down)?
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
If you're not steaming in between shots and let the machine preheat properly, I'd say it's pretty manageable. I can pull 3 espressos one after another without any detrimental effect on the taste.
@vacakraljica87
@vacakraljica87 3 года назад
Hi! Great video! Thank you for sharing the whole process and all the Infos for the parts, much appreciated 👍 I ordered the same parts, and I'm excited to set it up! Could you help me with two things that aren't clear to me from the video: - When you attached the power source to XMT 7100 unit on to terminals 1 and 2 (21:30), in which order did you connect the L (coming from the front switch) and N (coming from the back wall) wires? - And is there any benefit, or what is a difference, in using an SSR-25DA instead of SSR-40DA? I'm asking because the ready-to-order PID Kits include SSR-40DA, and my knowledge of electronics is nonexistent to understand the difference 😁 Thanks a lot!
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
Hi Igor! I'm glad you like the video! As for answers: 1. The order doesn't matter, this is alternating current :) 2. I don't really know why they select such high rating for premade kits. The heater element on the boiler draws 15amps, so 25 should be plenty. Perhaps they do this for longevity (more headroom), but even with 25amps you're comfortably at 60% rated output. Unless I'm missing something, I'm not an electronics expert :D
@vacakraljica87
@vacakraljica87 3 года назад
@@robertkujawa3504 Great! A big thank you again!
@mathew5164
@mathew5164 2 года назад
@@robertkujawa3504 I stumbled across some reports of so called fake Fotek SSRs that would not perform to it's current rating. In one example, the SSR-25DA had a 12A Triac inside, or 50% less than the rated load. This might have something to do with why the kits all seem to be using 40A SSRs. The Gaggia should only draw around ≈ 6A (230V models), so you should still be okay if the 25A SSR only had a 12A triac.
@ropehitch
@ropehitch 2 года назад
@@robertkujawa3504 First of all, great video. I had the same question with respect to SSR-25DA vs SSR-40DA. I saw this note on the Mr Shades site but I have no idea what it means: "These products are typically current rated lower than the name suggests - so it is advised to limit this SSR to switching 25A maximum. (a typical Gaggia espresso machine is rated at approximately 6A). " Anyhow, it is pretty equivalent cost to get the SSR-40DA; would you recommend that?
@drszczecin
@drszczecin 2 года назад
Great video! I will try to do it the same way :) Without Your I would be lost! Then maybe I will try to add 'Dimmer mod' as well. Have you thought about this?
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
Yes, a dimmer mod would be high on my "to do" list, but I'm still figuring out the most aesthetic way to do it.
@Loontinen
@Loontinen 2 года назад
You need to melt the ends of the sleeve with a lighter to keep it from fraying.
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
Now I know, thanks! :D
@RamySLR
@RamySLR 2 года назад
Does the brown wire on the brew switch connects directly to the power outlet? When the machine is off, does the PID stay on, turn off? I have newer model and trying to figure out the connection before I start. Thanks
@elmerjrreyes6918
@elmerjrreyes6918 Год назад
Great video and really helpful, just one question - do you need to first set the parameters/temperature in the PID before Autotuning? Thanks!
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 Год назад
No need for that, you can start with the stock ones, set the temp, let it heat up well and then auto tune.
@elmerjrreyes6918
@elmerjrreyes6918 Год назад
@@robertkujawa3504 Thanks Robert, i will give it a try. Are you still running your setup with SSR 25DA or changed it to 40DA?
@makkek69
@makkek69 2 года назад
Hi Robert, just wondering if the parts you linked will work with a 120V machine as well. I've messed around with taking things apart and putting them back together before but not really much in the electrical space
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
Yes, they will accept a range of voltages, 120V included.
@gk-cl7so
@gk-cl7so 2 года назад
Man that’s a lot of work
@renatoborgesa6018
@renatoborgesa6018 2 года назад
Hi, thanks for this great tutorial! I have a question though: For the PID power source is it ok to tap with the piggy back on the power switch instead of the brew switch? I’ve read another tutorial and they tap on the power switch, thanks
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
You should be fine, the bottom white wire should carry 220V, but it's always good practice to verify this with a multimeter.
@erodaven
@erodaven 2 года назад
What difference should make that change in the connection?
@bikesforme7922
@bikesforme7922 Год назад
noticed you hooked up wire from the power source to the brew button, shouldn't power source be hooked up to power switch on the machine?
@riadyl3311
@riadyl3311 Год назад
Heads up guys, learn from my mistake, I bought an AC input SSR whereas I shouldve picked up the DC input variant. So pay attention to that detail
@back_to_the_bike8820
@back_to_the_bike8820 2 года назад
thank you, this video is very interesting, bravo. What is the material of the boiler of this Gaggia? Copper? (I doubt) Aluminum? (ouch) Stainless steel ? (too expensive ...).
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
Yes, the boiler is made from aluminium. This is great for heat transfer, but you have to be careful when descaling with citric acid. There was a short batch of Gaggias (2015-2018) with a stainless steel boiler, but these are best avoided, as they don't feature a 3-way solenoid valve.
@iHoRiZonTaLz
@iHoRiZonTaLz 2 года назад
Nice video! Will this work on newer models?
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
Yes, the machine in the video is the current model
@etwoodson213
@etwoodson213 Год назад
Quick question. If I were to get the xmt7200 with built in ssr would I need to still get a external ssr? Thanks for the great video!
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 Год назад
From what I can find in the spec sheet, the internal SSR is only rated at 5A. Sadly, this isn't enough for the boiler :(
@mikeb666
@mikeb666 2 года назад
Hi, thanks for making the video, will this work on a pre 2015 Gaggic Classic? thanks
@g.g.4010
@g.g.4010 2 года назад
yes
@nizaridrissiz
@nizaridrissiz 9 месяцев назад
Hi! I followed this as closely to what was in screen and it seems to work... Pid turns on and starts tuning the temp. But it trips the breaker of the house as soon as I hit the brew switch (I have the dimmer mod installed). Anyone has a guess as to what's happening?
@user-wl1hs4dy2r
@user-wl1hs4dy2r 2 года назад
Can I apply this instruction to the old version? Thanks for this great video👍🏽
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
Yes, but the source of mains power might be different. Best to check with a multimeter or to consult a diagram.
@user-wl1hs4dy2r
@user-wl1hs4dy2r 2 года назад
@@robertkujawa3504 Thank you very much 😊
@williamdouglastoy
@williamdouglastoy 2 года назад
@@robertkujawa3504 has anyone provided a wiring diagram (or advice) for the old pre-2018 version? I'm working on mine and am not sure where to wire the power to unfortunately.
@shikharkalsi9692
@shikharkalsi9692 2 года назад
Thank you for creating this, would all the parts be the same for Canada (which has the same electricity as the US) thank you
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
The PID I'm using can take a range of voltages, so that's a yes.
@JC-XL
@JC-XL 4 месяца назад
Great tutorial. The only thing I do not understand is - the temp sensor PT100 that you screwed in the boiler and put thermal paste - isn't this paste in contact with the water? Why do you need thermal paste, or the hole does not go in the boiler and is just in the wall of the boiler?
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 4 месяца назад
The hole doesn't go all the way through to the boiler inside. It ends in the boiler wall. The PT100 sensor reacts very rapidly to temperature changes, so in order to take advantage of that and reduce latency, I used the thermal paste.
@erodaven
@erodaven 2 года назад
Really nice video, thanks a lot, I'll try to do this with my Gaggia. I have a question about the FLRY cable, I'm not sure what it is, looking on internet I found some FLRY cables but they are always with a letter next to the FLRY, for example FLRY-A, FLRY-B, etc. Can you give me more info about the cable that you used?
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
You're looking for the FLRY-B variant, although either should work just fine, as long as the diameter is there.
@erodaven
@erodaven 2 года назад
Thanks for your answer, but I don't understand if the FLRY cable has something special or should work any 1.5 mm2 cable with a good resistance to high temperatures. For example, can I use the same silicone type cable for all the connections? Obviously using the right sizes (0.5, 1.0 and 1.5 mm2)
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
@@erodaven Keep in mind that those silicone cables are much thicker than others and if you're using the same 3D print file I used, the hole in the back will probably be too small. They're also more expensive :) Other than that, you'll be okay using them for everything.
@SuperBerniii
@SuperBerniii 2 года назад
Hi, thank you for the tutorial! :) silly question (I am a little bit confused about the models) - does this work for the EU version? Or only for the US? Thanks!
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 2 года назад
The parts I listed will accept a broad range of voltages and should be fine on both 110V and 220V (EU).
@motopasky
@motopasky 3 года назад
When using a 2nd relay to control steam, you are connecting it to the alarm function of the PID which means there is no logarithmic adjustment of the temp (it's just an on / off switch). Do you think it would be possible and beneficial to use a 2nd PID control unit for steam only?
@robertkujawa3504
@robertkujawa3504 3 года назад
Thanks for taking a look! I focused on just the brew temp in this vid, the hack for PID to control steam is still ahead of me, so I'll answer intuitively. I think that using the alarm function is good enough for steaming, it seems to need less precision than brewing. When I'm ready to explore that option I'll come back with a better answer (and perhaps a follow up video) and I'm definitely going to use this vid for reference: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ewj5oXl_wk0.html Here's auto translated article from Damian Witoński: translate.google.com/translate?sl=pl&tl=en&u=gaggiaclassicmods.blogspot.com/2018/10/pid-xmt7100-modyfikacja-na-dwa.html
@motopasky
@motopasky 3 года назад
@@robertkujawa3504 Thanks, yes, I have seen that video already too.
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