How To Install A Polyaspartic 3 Coat system with With Epoxy Primer And Basecoat 

Thank you, we will be posting another one later this week.

Thank you for the great compliment. I really like the husqvarna grinders, they bought HTC a couple years ago. They have an 820 planetary thats really nice. They need to come up with a floating shrowd like we have on our HTC800 or else you have to adjust the dust skirt all the time. I would also recommend the high voltage units. 480v is the top dog as far as grinding goes. I just posted a video yesterday another floor at this same school but different location.

I don't remember off the top of my head, that was quite a while ago. If I remember correctly it was approximately $5000.00 We also had a two hour travel involved in that every day

Thank you for watching and good luck with your floor.

George Utter That should work also.

You want temps above 40 and concrete needs to cure for 30 days before applying coatings.

George Utter You can probably roll out the clearcoat, sprinkle a couple flakes where needed and roll more clear coat on top of it. I don’t know how large of an area you are trying to fix. Some of the flakes are definitely going to stick to the roller when you do that. But the majority should stick to the floor.

I typically do not like to apply flakes to rejection at least in a garage application. The flakes are made of vinyl and not as strong as the epoxy around it. Therefore under a point load could possibly crush and be the weakest part of the floor. That is why in most of my garage floors we install, the flakes are random and laying flat to avoid that issue. I hope that makes sense.

@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thanks and thanks for the great videos.

Its called a racatac, if you look online, you can find it. Just make sure you get the right configuration.

Thank you

You always need to diamond grind no matter what coating you are applying.

On this particular project we did one coat per day, so approximately 24 hours apart. You do not want to wait over 30+/- hours between coats, oils will release from the epoxy and actually repel the next coat if you wait too long. Yes we clean our squeegee with acetone after each install.

@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thank you very much for the response! I am trying to do a two section, two different color set-up which is why I was curious about the cure time. The first area would be red/white/black/gray, full flake. Second section which would surround (boarder) the first section would be a 3' boarder of a single color flake such as a dark/medium gray. Was trying to figure out how to tape off one area from another without having the tape pull up any of the material. Not sure if you've ever done this sort of thing but if you had any advice, that would be great. The process I'm thinking of is: laydown the primer in the entire area. 12 hours later, tape off the center area and lay down the base coat and flake. 12 hours later, scrape excess flake. Once complete, tape off this area so that the 3' boarder is now expose. Laydown the base coat and flake. Come back 12 hours later, scrape off excess, remove the tape, and laydown the polyaspartic top coat over both areas. Max cure time for any one area would be 24 hours but I could adjust that down if you think that would be necessary. I'm just concerned of the tape pulling up any of the material. Any insight into your experience or thoughts on my process would be appreciated!!! And of course, if you think this will work, please feel free to refer me to the products and amounts on your page that I would need to purchase. The center area total sq ft is 370 and the boarder is 250 sq ft.

@@michaelg503 Yes, that is very doable and I agree with how you would be doing it. I would prefer to go over some details with you verbally, it's much easier than typing. If you want to email me your phone number, I will call you back jason@concretefloorsolutions.com

Yes, you can run the material up the walls. If it is only 6 inches or so you can use the same material on the floor. If you are going three or 4 feet of the wall, I would recommend a vertical epoxy that we sell. Primer:https: //concretefloorsolutions.com/product/cfs-015v-vertical-epoxy-primer-2-gallon-kit/ top coat: concretefloorsolutions.com/product/cfs-100v-vertical-epoxy-top-coat/

I always recommend a primer, it has not let me down in 28 years. If your concrete is extremely porous, or not in good condition, I would highly recommend a primer. If not, you may not need it, but there is always a risk when not using a primer. The primer penetrates into the concrete, which thicker coatings do not.

You need to wipe it with acetone while it's still liquid, once it cures, nothing will remove it except for grinding or sanding

the Epoxies penetrate better into concrete then the Polyaspartic. So yes, the epoxy is a better material to bond to the concrete, the polyaspartic is a far superior topcoat. They both have their places. If you are installing this exterior, I would recommend the epoxy primer, polyaspartic intermediate coat with flake, then polyaspartic topcoat. If you are installing it in a garage, you can install the epoxy primer, epoxy, intermediate coat with flake then the polyaspartic topcoat. If you have any other questions, you can email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com

Because it will take an extra day to install because you need the water to dry from the floor. Epoxy does not like water. The primer is designed to penetrate into the concrete, washing is just an extra step that adds another day that you don't need to do. Primer is the key. Not all contractors install a primer.

4,000.00 is average, epoxy prices have risen, so it will probably increase a bit

@@ConcreteFloorSolutions can I have half done then move everything over without having an obvious line. It would be flake

@@Imwright720 you will most likely see a line.

Yes, the grinders and vacuum system are all 480 3 phase.

@@ConcreteFloorSolutions thanks! Do you have an email I could get? I had a question if you don’t mind!

@@jamesandrews598 jason@concretefloorsolutions.com