Great video! I did not fully understand the gluing process on concrete as explained by the flooring salesman. Now I know how to do the T-molding on concrete. Thanks for posting this helpful video.
Dear Casey. My long distance dedication goes out to my co-worker Bob. Bob, GET THE HELL OUT OF BED AND GET TO WORK. I CAN'T FIGURE OUT THIS TRANSITION! Keep your feet on the ground and keep reaching for the stars.
Thanks for the video. I purchased the transition strip and it came along with the metal track. I see you used the track, could you let me know what is the function of the track and can the strip be installed without the metal track.
@creekyknees the only problem with drilling as I have done is that sometimes the tmoulding does not reach the track enough to catchit properly especially transitioning to tile
Usually you don't wanna see the molding from the room without the laminate, The tile should have run a little bit farther. Almost all doors are 1 3/8'', so I always have my molding end up halfway under the door. Also i never use tracks on concrete they are so hard to use and. Even on wood don't screw them down as the screw veers the metal so it's not straight. I use nails so the track stays straight. Most times I use flooring heat gun and put a lot of glue. The other option is liquid nails.
What it the depth of wood and tile is too far so the track/tang on the t-mould doesn't bottom out? Do the sell different height center tangs on these t-moulds?
If you look closely, the early part of this video shows concrete, than at about 1:00 shows wood subfloor, then switches back to concrete. Not that it matters. The video is clearly labeled as "glue down". My question is what KIND of "industrial adhesive". The vid shows heavy duty liquid nails.
Why not glue the channel in first? Also, how does the edge of the molding where it meets the door frame look? I think there is an awkward corner there?
Loctite power grab > Liquid Nails. The proof? the oak 1/4 round around my fireplace.... liquid nails would pull away even after being set with weight for over 24 hours. the power grab? 20 seconds of pressure....... still set a week later.
I hate all laminate moldings these days. I'm currently looking for solid wood transitions to use. Then you can liquid nails and brad nail them. You cannot brad nail laminate mdf moldings they have no holding power. If you have uneven concrete you'll have to find weights blue tape won't cut it.
I just tried gluing down a vinyl transition strip to concrete (without the metal track) using regular liquid nails. To my surprise 24 hrs later the liquid nails was as gooey as it was when first laid down 24 hrs prior. Is there that big a difference between regular liquid nails and heavy duty liquid nails ? I may try adding the metal track then gluing that down to the concrete with the heavy duty. What a pain having to clean up a big mess after it failed the first time. I need to glue it since my gap is not level due to a crack. screwing down the metal track would be difficult as I would have to shim one side first etc..just easier to glue it with something that will for sure lock it down.
Liquid nails heavy duty should work. Rough up the surface to be glued first, then clean thoroughly. Stronger than that is something called black mamba. It's used to glue undermount sinks to granite. $28 a tube though.
the video clearly says for a glue down floor (in other words concrete.) that is why the track is used as shown. Liquid Nails industrial is VERY good stuff that i have used for 15+ years with great results.
Liquid nails is a poor choice. It use to be good but high school kids starting getting high from it. If you notice it is a different color. The wood&panel has the biggest difference. They took all the good stuff out of it which is why HomeDepot and Lowes checks your ID now just in case. Must be 18. The purpose of a track is to be screwed to the floor but never use them anyway. Hide all cuts under the door frame is also a good idea. Use Loctite 470 for moldings.
@@cruzdeleon1888 it's not so hard either. It's the correct way to do it. Masonry bit for under 3 dollars if you dont have a set and predrill then screw it in. That's the correct way. It's not hard. Just takes a little additional effort
This video does not show you the correct way to install this trim strip. You first install the plastic cinch strip to the floor with screws or glue and after it is dry and holding well you press the molding T strip into it and then you have the correct installation for this type of a molding.
Why don't you just screw down the track then it locks in. That's the whole point of it coming in 2 parts why clip it together before doesn't make sense....?
Wheres the sealer for the laminate? Dont think the laminate gonna be ablebggto expand w that rock hard liquid nail.....do it right....screw the track down.....seal the laminate w silicone.
@ 2:30 The bounce in the floor with just hand pressure looks like 1/16" or more... I would kill myself if I was done and noticed this... I hope this is an example setup... that looks like a nightmare.
