I have just purchased a new hive hot water/central heating controller with hub & thermostat. Do I need to remove the old manual thermostat? If I wanted to remove it should I just disconnect the wires and terminate them safely? If I do terminate them do I then need to go to the old main controller and disconnect the same coloured wires? I currently have a a Drayton controller and the back box connectors look the same. Does this mean that I can just slot in the new hive controller as it is a 6 pin fitting. I am relatively proficient with electrics but have never installed a wireless system. Thanks
Thank you for the video. Can I remove the hallway thermostat cable completely and insert a wire link between the terminals from which the brown and black cable has just been removed, so that they are electrically joined together.
Have a question in hive multi zone I stallation I am replacing Danfoss TP9000 Programmer Danfoss TP5000SI Danfoss TS2 Sensor I have 2 zones upstairs and downstairs Downstairs was straightforward as the Danfoss TS2 Sensor linked directly to the Danfoss TP9000 Programmer, so all I needed to do was disconnect it and replicate all the other wires in the hive and it works perfectly However the second zone uses the Danfoss TP5000SI and there is no power connected, so I therefore have no power for the hive multi zone reviever Question is where should I get the power from? Will this have to be routed from the boiler control box? Or can this run off a mains or lighting circuit? And I presume I will need a 3 amp spur switch like the main unit?
Hi When I remove the thermostat from the control panel do I also remove the neutral from the thermostat aswell? And what do I link where the wire that it is connected to in the control panel.
Great video dude. There is a question I've asked many people but never seem to get a straigt answer, maybe you can help. Im going to install a S paln system in my house. So it will have 1 hot water and 3 heating zones. I'm going to assume that the three heating zones will need there own thermostat, that seems logical enough. But can I hard wire them????? (the house is back to brick and while it's in a state I would like to a avoid using wireless where possible) If I can hard wire them what cable should I run to each thermostat Is 1.5-5 core enough??? Any answers would be great, thanks Do you work in and around London by any chance
Can I controll the thermostat in the way I can only use myself by my phone my tenant thy keep the temperature high with window open even when is summer, Please help
Thank you for this video. I was struggling with the hive install as it wasn't clear whether I exchanged the old wireless thermostat or the whole programmer for the hive receiver; you made that clear from the start which was great. The second crucial point you made was the small wiring change in the wiring centre. None of this is mentioned in the instructions so once again thank you so much for sharing this info....Adam
This is the only video I have seen that explains the wiring centre! I was struggling so much with that,but thanks to your video it now works! Thank you so much!
Hi, I have just purchased and fitted a dual channel HIVE system for my oil fired central heating and it is almost working 100%....but there was no wire behind my old analogue Honeywell controller for water....just 3 wires...L N and the common for live transfer so in effect if I hit the hot water option it just comes on at the switch as I can't heat water separately and never could unless it was the immersion in the hot press. Does this system require additional wiring to the receiver to turn on the immersion? Otherwise am I right in saying that the water option only is redundant? Hope all that makes sense. So when I turn on the heating the oil burner fires up outside and heats both radiators and water simultaneously but I just don’t see anyway of heating water separately with only 3 wires at the controller. Any advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Have a Hive 2, My stat's button has stopped being able to be pushed to select anything. Everything works from the app, I just cant use the dial to select anything the left right turning works. If I want to move it to another property will that still be possible or do I need the push button to work? In that property I dont need to be able tp push it just use the app. Whereas I will get a new one for here. Any advice from someone thats done the installation recently on this stat with the big round push button appreciated, thanks
If I have hive fitted to a hot water and heating system and replace the boiler for a combi, will that hive system work still or would I need to replace for the heating only version?
Great video. Seems simple enough but I don’t have a thermostat at all. That’s the reason I’m getting one of these. Do I simply need to replace the old control unit with the hub and then just instal the WiFi thermostat. It seems to me to be a simpler installation for me because I don’t need to remove a thermostat. Please advise me.
So the old programmer was only firing up the boiler on cylinder stat demand as the room stat wires were connected to the common of the programmer? How was the hot water demand separated from the heating demand, how can the zone valves not open each other and give all the time heating and hot water at th3 sake time?
Great video , I have a question can I fix hive with old storage system running with system boiler with only one diverter valve fixed close to the tank .Thanks
Question. My main control unit has 2 extra wires for remote sensor, they are the same colour as the thermostat so does this mean I don’t need to change any wires in the big wiring box?
These will be connected to terminals 5&6 in your existing receiver for the remote sensor ! These will not longer be needed so can be left disconnected ! You wont need to change anything in the central wiring system.
Hi mate, Spot on, did exactly as you showed as I was stuck on the day! Only thing is that I couldn't rack my brain around is that the heating works when requested but when calling for hot water, the boiler is not firing up. Any ideas ??? Replaced ideal classic with Worcester Regular. Existing S Plan with unvented cylinder. Only omitted room stat and linked brown heating valve with programmer call wire. Can't find anything on this issue of hot water not firing up!
I am looking at installing Hive but I appear to have an older heating system that does not have an existing programmer, it instead has only a spur which runs direct into the boiler, the temp is then controlled by the radiator TRV's How easy is it to install the programmer on my system ? Assume it could be bridged between the spur and my boiler ?
My system has a wireless thermostat controlled by a honeywell r6660d, would the process be the same with the call for heat wires and then eliminate all other wires from the Honeywell box ?
Hi I have always been watching you videos they r really helpful Thank u so much I am an apprentice and I want to wire a hive on s plan There are 4 motorized valves . Hot water. Heating. Towel rail.and underfloor heating Could u guide me a little bet on how to wire them thanks
I have a Hive installed like you showed currently but want to switch to Nest. I tried mimicking the same wiring for a Nest receiver for my system boiler but it didn’t work, so I had to connect the Hive back up. Is there any additional steps needed when switching from a Hive system boiler setup to a Nest system boiler setup? Thanks!
Great Video, well explained with good wiring references. I have a qeuestion: my system has a Standard Hot Water Circuit (with a 3-port Honeywell Valve) and TWO Heating Circuits (Downstairs & Upstairs) that each drive an ON/OFF Valve for the respective area. Would you be kind enough and add any comments of what extra changes I need to do to convert over fully to Hive Smart Heating. Oh! I should I add that there are also TWO Thermostats (one downstairs for the Downstairs Heating, and one upstairs for the Upstairs Heating). Thank you!
Hello, I am getting constant hot water from my new system boiler which I don't need. Why then has the Hive thermo got a hot water only setting which would indicate to me that I can heat the water up only when I need it. This is frustrating me, can you advise please?
Can you help please. Since installing, heating works fine but hot water cylinder just continues heating, the cylinder thermostat seems to have stopped working. With hot water on all the time should the cylinder stat kick in and override hive?
Hello I have a hot water cylinder/tank and can't control my temperature if I put it on programme/schedule. Any tips. This morning I had luke warm water after I had put it on schedule.
Finally got mine installed. Called hive as thought I messed up. No matter what the hot water boost button would not work on thermostat or in the app. Ended up a faulty thermostat. It was programmed as a single channel when it was meant to be dual. Screw fix exchanged came back with another and high presto it worked. I could now work for hive after my install ha
hi great video ,iv seen a lot of videos on installing hive ,some dont make the wiring correction in the wiring conection box ,they just make sure in the modual the hw on and heating on is conected whats your thoughts on this , also i have a 2 zone house the living room has its own programer ,can i leave it there on it own , so the rest of the house on the hive thank you
Thanks for you video. I have a BG model UP2 controller which has a spur off to a BG WR1 wireless receiver. I need to replace with dual receiver as shown in this video. If I were to remove the spurred wire from the UP2 and therefore disregard the WR1, would that be the correct starting point? I only have wires in N, L, 1 & 3 in both units. I hope that makes sense👍🏽
Great video, very easy to understand, please could you make a similar video for Hive multi-zone, eg. Hot Water, multiple CH zones and Underfloor Heating. thanks!
Could You please tell which and how many devices do I need to System boiler with hot water tank, 2 heating zones and UFH? I'm confused with how many HIVE receivers I need....
Hi - I love your video. It has given me some confidence to self install the very same unit to my conventional OIL boiler with hot water tank that has the same controller unit as your video (except it has the double size back plate.. . Question - my current set up has as wireless analogue dial type room thermostat so apart from checking the connections on the controller back plate match up is there anything else I need to be aware of ?
A "Y plan" system only has 1 valve. A 3 port valve. This means the valve can either close off either end or sit mid position. If its mid position then heating and hot water are applied if it sits on one side it supplies heating and if it sits the other it supplies hot water. 3 port valves have 2 extra cores in their flex white and grey. Depending what is energised will depend on where the valve moves to.
Hi, great video and very well explanatory. My wiring centre is a Honeywell Smartfit it has a circuit board and very few cables going in, would it be possible to install an Hive thermostat? Thanks
hi there thanks for a great advise and training .. i bout the hive thermostat used then i bought the hive hun used from another seller not knowing that it can only be register ones .. is there anyway deregistering the hive hub so new user can register in a new account ? any help would be great thanks
Hi thanks for video it’s great, however our thermostat has 3 wires going in and out Honeywell switchboard doesn’t have any wires that are connected together they’re all individual. Can we just disconnect the stat from the wall end?
@urbanplumbers if you left the wires as they are in the Junction Box but connected the wires together as shown at the now defunct thermostat end wouldnt that create the same circuit anyway? effectively connecting the two wires together? Great Guide and thank you
@@UrbanPlumbers Agree with UP...you can do that but I would regard it as bad practice - a new owner could redecorate not realising that there are live wires in place.
Great video and helped with confirmation of what I was doing as had to rewire a control centre. I need to multizone hive a second thermostat for my underfloor heating, (s plan) it has the zone valve connected to zone 1 at the minute. Can you do a video for multi zone please?
@@Will-rq9lw I just went for it and turned out to be a really easy install. Just replaced the old programmer in the boiler cupboard with the hive box and that was it.
OK I'm stupid amatuer here dumb question. If black programmer wire is only connected to brown wire from central heater valve, then how does this control the hot water valve?
@@UrbanPlumbers Hi, no sorry I gathered from the video that you used the program wire and connected it to the live of the central heater zone/valve. This made me wonder how it is able to then heat the hot water tank because that is a separate valve? Sorry if I'm thick have I missed something. You are great in the video btw, I just have concentration issues lol
Terminal 3 from programmer connects to cylinder stat and stat fires the zone valve and valve fires the boiler. Terminal 4 connects to heating zone valve directly
Thanks for another great video to compliment your nest installs, I do agree with a previous comment about joining the wires together with a connector at the thermostat end which could be pushed back into the hole in the wall if you are going to position the hive in the same position. This would then leave all the wiring in place should you ever want to go back to a wired set up.
@@UrbanPlumbers thanks for the reply. I have a hive hot water and heating,fitted on my gravity fed system. It’s a Y plan. When heating gets turned on if the water cylinder isn’t up to temp the 3 way valve stays in the mixed position allowing water and heating, only when the cylinder is up to temp does the valve move to heating only. The problem is the heating can take an age to heat up. Can I stop this? Sorry for the long message.
I was wondering for a hive install can I leave the old thermostat on cranked to max (always calling for Central heating and place the hive thermostat somewhere else
I have the same question. Crank the hallway stat to max so it becomes a normally open switch and use the hive stat somewhere else. My hall always gets hotter than our larger spaces so I want the wireless stat somewhere else. Can you conform this worked in the end as I intend on leaving the wired hall stat in place just dialled to maximum.
@@larmckenna yes mate it works ours still is like that we just leave the old thermostat set to maximum and the hive is on a stand in the living room dead simple as the receiver box on our installation didn't even require a different back plate
The information about proving a circuit safe to work on is incorrect. First test your meter on a known live circuit or proving unit. Secondly, test the circuit you wish to work on. Thirdly re test your meter on the known live circuit or proving unit. Then and only then can you be certain the circuit you wish to work on is dead. Your meter could have failed following proving on the initial test. From an authorised person for LV and HV systems