How to install polycarbonate roofing 

What issues when having a flat service? I rent and have a flat trellis;/

@@carnellc We have found that when it rains it will leak between the H profile and the sheet. There is no way to stop this. Also, if you have a heavy snow load it may collapse the entire structure. It needs the slope for the snow to slide off.

@@AdvanceGreenhouses can you walk on those sheets, they look flimsy.

Thanks Nathan :) We recommend 50mm for the corrugated or Greca profiles, and 65mm for a 5-Rib profile (higher rib). You don't need to pre-drill each hole with our One Shot fasteners or Multipurpose fasteners. These have their own cutting wings that cut an expansion hole at the same time. Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, no worries :) I didn't actually seal around this one. I just cut the hole in the polycarbonate as close as possible to the shape of the pipe. We do get a very small amount of water through, mainly from rain landing on the sheet above the pipe and running down. But it didn't matter in this particular installation as there is a planter box on the deck directly below. The best way to stop this is to get a plumbing vent flashing. It's a sleeve/boot that slips over the pipe. The you run the sheet above the pipe over the flashing, and the bottom edge of the flashing sits on top of the sheet below the pipe. A bit hard to explain but if you search for plumbing vent flashing you'll see what I mean. Thanks! Kurt.

Hi there, thanks for the comment. You can get metal flashings (plumbing vent flashings) for this purpose. Because this one was very close to the eave, I didn't need to put the overlapping sheet over the top end of the flashing (you normally do). The top end of my flashing just sat under the eave nicely. I hope that helps. Thanks, Kurt - Sunnyside.

Hi there, you can use metal or polycarbonate flashings to help hold the sides down. You can also use storm washers or hurricane washers on the screws to provide more surface area holding the sheets down. Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, we didn't use barge cappings on the side of this structure, but we do have polycarbonate barge cappings suitable for this. Or you can use normal metal flashings available from most hardware stores. Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there! We're based in New Zealand so I'm not sure about where to buy in the US. However a standard width is about 26-34 inches (660mm - 860mm). There's no places that do them wider here, might be the same there too :) Regards, Kurt.

Hi there, thanks for the question. Would you be using it as a skylight for an insulated camper. I.e. over an internal living area? The only thing with single skinned polycarbonate is that it does get condensation, similar to single glazed glass. So you'd get some drips in the living area. You'd probably be better off going for Twinwall, see www.twinwall.co.nz for details. This is insulated and prevents condensation. Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, no worries. You use a cordless drill with a 5/16" nut setter (hex head driver). Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, thanks for the question :) You definitely need some sort of fall/slope. A minimum of 5 degrees is recommended. If you don't have a slope, the rain will sit on top of the sheets, and eventually come through the joins. If there's enough water there it can even make the sheets bow and curve inwards. Hope that helps! Kurt

@@sunnysidenz Do you have a link to a How-To Video that would help us make your recommended slope on an existing flat roof attached to my brick house?

Hi Sharon. I don't have a video for that, but there are a couple of options. You could see if you could drop one end of the structure. Depending on how it's built, it may be possible. But usually the better option is to put extra purlins on top, in varying thicknesses. I.e. a 150x50 on its edge at the high end, then a 100x50 on its edge, then 50x50, down to 0. This can work depending on the length. Feel free to email photos to info@sunnyside.co.nz and I can take a look. Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, we put a wallplate (beam) along the wall underneath the eave, and then attached the rafters to that with rafter hangers :)

@@sunnysidenz many thanks 🙏, in my house there is an existing beam immediately fixed underneath the eave, not fixed to the wall under eave, in this case how should I attached the rafters to the existing beam? Do I also use brackets to fix the rafters to the beam? Cheers

No worries. Yes you should be able to attach the rafters to that using rafter hangers. However, you need to ensure this beam is strong enough to support the rafters and roof, including with wind load. In some cases, you may need to add additional support to that beam, i.e. adding extra rafters from the house to the eave to support. Cheers.

​@@sunnysidenz Glad to hear that, you might have known Fresco Canopies & Awnings, and they built my canopy years ago and I noted the canopy is attached to the eave by a 50mm x 90mm beam fixed underneath along the eave, NOT to the wall, and I think the beam can be strong as long as it is screwed to the original solid timber inside the eave. My plan now is to extend a bit more deck and then build a pergola with polycarbonate roofing. Your video provided a good reference for me. I also watched other videos that show the beam is fixed to the wall underneath the eave like yours, however, the difference is that their rafters are put on top of the beam and then fastened with brackets and my ones are underneath the beam. Practically it would be great if I would be able to attach the rafters to the existing beam using hangers.

Ah yes I know Fresco. The rafter hangers will allow you to attach the rafters directly into a beam.

Hi Elian, they're 0.8mm thick in a corrugated profile. Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there :) Tin snips will cut through one sheet at a time. To use a handsaw, you can do about 2-6 sheets. Thanks, Kurt.

@@sunnysidenz Thank you

Is that 6 mm thick? I really don't want to have to buy a saw. Sorry to be a pest.

It's 0.8mm thick, but has the corrugations so retains its rigidity.

@@sunnysidenz Perfect, thanks.

Hi Jennifer. No worries. It depends on the storm :) They aren't as strong as Coloursteel or metal roofing, so at a certain strength of wind, will get ripped off. I would suggest putting plenty of fasteners in to give it extra support. Regards, Kurt.

Thank you so much.

Hi there. Yes there is more noise from this than from an insulated roof/ceiling inside the house. It will allow all light and heat through (if it's clear) so can get hot under the sun. It will stay the same temperature as anywhere outside during winter, since it is outside. Unless you're going to enclose the walls and keep heat in. Regards, Kurt.

You're welcome :)

Hi there, they're overlapped one full corrugation. It works out to be about 1.5 corrugations, as one edge of the sheet is a half corrugation and the other is a full corrugation. The important thing is that the full corrugation is on top, to minimise sediment getting in the join. There's a diagram on page 2 of the installation instructions - sunnyside.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/SUNCOVER_LASERLITE_1000_Installation.pdf. Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, we do have another video showing that, feel free to check out ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l4vU-jdaVY8.html

@@sunnysidenz thanks. I will check out the video

Hi there, yes you'd definitely want a steeper pitch in snow prone areas. You'd also want to reduce the purlin spacings to 600mm max. Thanks :) Kurt.

@@sunnysidenz thank you so much!

Hi Shamila, thanks for your question. You can either use purlins (the ones going across at right angles to the sheets) of different sizes. I.e. large at the top end, going to small at the bottom end. That will create some slope. Or if it's possible, to lower one entire end of the structure. I hope that helps! Kurt

I have the same problem! We have snow here but my pergola has no slope. Great question

@@sunnysidenz you just solved a huge problem I had! So no need to raise or lower an end of the whole pergola structure if using different size purlins to create slope? Thanks

Hi there, thanks for your comment. They do hold the rain (5 deg pitch recommended) so the water runs off correctly. They also have a 99.5% UV protective coating, to stop the sun from breaking the sheet down. I hope that helps! Feel free to look at our website, www.sunnyside.co.nz Thanks, Kurt.

Thank you for the information...I live in Florida will it hold a hurricane?

Not sure about that! It would probably depend more on the supporting structure and whether that would hold a hurricane. Here is a link for the wind ratings: sunnyside.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Laserlite-2000P-Data-Sheet-Sunnyside.pdf

Hi there, unfortunately you won't be able to use fasteners that just have the flat rubber seal. The washer generally isn't big enough to go over the expansion hole, and the flat seal won't form to the corrugation without squashing the sheet. I haven't seen anywhere that supplies 40mm screws with dome washers. I do know you can buy the washers by themselves, so perhaps you could buy some shorter screws and put the washers on them. I'd be worried about your purlins though if they're only thin. Normally we'd recommend at least a 45mm which would mean the screws don't poke through the bottom and they should be strong enough to support the roof in the wind etc. Thanks, Kurt.

@@sunnysidenz thanks Kurt. I managed to find 40mm and added domes on manually. At the overlap of each panel, do you have to place a screw here at the edge or can you leave it to the next corrugation if it does not fit in with your every three or four screw placement setup?

@@Flashbax Great, glad you found some 40mm ones. You do need to put a screw at the edge on each overlap. Usually the screw pattern is every 4th, 3rd, 3rd. over the 11 corrugations.

@@sunnysidenz thanks Kurt for the prompt replies. All the best.

Hi there, yes it is UV protected and waterproof. It has a warranty against colour change, but eventually at the end of its lifespan (15-25 years) it will break down.

Hi Abdul, thanks for your message. Yes you can use it underneath a deck, we've used it in plenty of applications like that. You just need to make sure it still has adequate slope/fall to one side. Thanks, Kurt.

Sunnyside Clear Roofing thank you

You can't walk on it directly, but you can use walk boards at least 2m long to spread the load across the sheets. Thanks, Kurt.

But it’s kinda nice that it won’t collapse

Ah that's a shame, there's no easy way to fix it. It would be good if you could flip the sheet over but most sheets only have UV protection on one side, so that would expose the unprotected side. You can't glue or silicone as it looks bad and will eventually work loose. Your best option is to put some screws in where he's drilled the holes and hopefully the washer is sealed enough that it doesn't leak. Make sure the hole is big enough to allow for expansion too. All the best with it!

Hi there, here are the full warranty details for these particular sheets sunnyside.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/SUNCOVER_Warranty.pdf

Hi Gabby, thanks for your question. It can hold over 200kg per m2 of roofing. The main thing is that the structure underneath can support that. Usually with snow prone areas you'll put the purlins at 600mm apart, or even closer depending on area. Thanks, Kurt

Gabby M.

Hi Alexey, it's 88mm rise per lineal meter. Thanks, Kurt.

Hi Gus, I wouldn't recommend doubling them up. It will never be completely sealed so eventually you'd get debris/sediment/mould in there which you wouldn't be able to get out. You could put a shade cloth underneath, that may help, and you can remove it when necessary. Regards, Kurt.

@@sunnysidenz thanks mate

Hi Doug, thanks for your question. It can hold over 200kg per m2 of roofing. The main thing is that the structure underneath can support that. Usually with snow prone areas you'll put the purlins at 600mm apart, or even closer depending on area. Thanks, Kurt.

Thanks for the response. Good to know.

@@doug8237 I had the same question and the slope is very important. Many of these videos show flat roofs.

Hi there, we don't use them here in NZ. That's generally only used in the US. We do have a foam infill that we use in certain situations, such as under a sofit etc. Thanks, Kurt.

@@sunnysideoutdoorroofing2209 ah ok! I was just wondering. I just bought some im working on my pergola, gling to add some 1x4 first. Greetings from Texas friend. Thanks for the video.

@@adrianr8486 No worries :) Hope you're doing well over there! Kurt.

Hi there, this is available for delivery New Zealand-wide. Feel free to visit www.sunnyside.co.nz Thanks :)

Hi there, it's called noise stop tape. It's a closed cell foam that is 3mm thick and 25mm wide, with a sticky side to hold it down. It's available on our website at www.sunnyside.co.nz Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, you can purchase them from www.sunnyside.co.nz Thanks

Hi there, it's approx. 2.5m off the deck.

@@sunnysidenz Thanks 🙏

Hi there, you can't walk directly on it, it's too flexible for that. But you can put walk boards down, e.g. a plank, or a thick sheet of plywood. I'd put a sheet/drop cloth down first so the timber doesn't scratch it. Hope that helps! Kurt.

@@sunnysidenz very helpful. That's what I was thinking. It's high - 14 feet. Too scary for me, but hopefully I can find a local roofer who will take on a smaller job.

Hi there, we don't do installations, we only supply the roofing. Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, it's called noise stop tape and is a 25mm x 3mm foam tape (sunnyside.co.nz/product/noise-stop-tape/).

It's www.sunnyside.co.nz

Hi there, these sheets work out to be roughly $14 NZD per square metre. Note: We are an NZ based company so can only sell within NZ. Thanks, Kurt.

Why ?

Yes we've done it thousands of times :)

Use google to convert from metric to inches. Come on... Geez, smh