@1:35 Love those scissors. The latest version of the Fiskars Gardening Shears. I've been using them since I worked at Lowe's in 1999-2003 and ALWAYS had a pair in my vest/Apron pocket. Now, it's one of the handiest and most used tools in my garage. My two older pair are about worn out but can't bring myself to chunk them out. Thanks for showing another use of the brake bleeder, too. It also does a great job of getting the oil out of small engines without turning the mower over and/or making a big mess.
I have to be totally honest I watched this video and really didn't think it would work, but I had a frozen cable and decided to give it a try and holly cow it REALLY WORKED. MUST TRY 100%
That's awesome! I'm glad it worked for you too! I honestly didn't know if it would work when I first tried it but figured, what they heck why not. I was thinking about doing it again with "Evaporust" to see how well that worked. That stuff makes rust disappear.
Always did it with gravitational assistance, never tought of this, genius bro, tired of seeing people showing how to lube cables with the lubing tool, I was looking for something better, more efficient, well done bro
Thanks man! Kinda hit me that way when I first was trying to fix a rough cable! Was like... If there was only some way to suck this lube through it.... *Boom* breakthrough! LoL!
Great video! You had me at the Pepsi! On my Fiero, I lubricate from the shifter end. I put the spray straw right up against the sheath where the cable enters, then some tape around it, then carefully seal it up with hot glue. I spray for 5 seconds to get the white lithium spray lubricant through the cable, then peel of the glue, and work the cable. Then I do the other cable.
You had me at Fiero man! I've always had one in my collection of cars since I got my first one in 1996! I currently have a 87 GT project with an almost finished 3800SC swap (my second swapped one). Big cables like the fiero are definitely a pita and they DEFINITELY need the attention because they definitely don't shift the best when you ignore them!
I wish that I'd seen this video before ordering a cable luber tool. I have one of those from Horrible Freight and I like it too. I used it to flush out my hydraulic brakes on my truck. Used about three quarts of brake fluid in total. I never thought of using it like you did for cable lubing, but that's a genius idea. I see where you could run solvent down the cable first to clean it out good (if needed) and then run any kind of lube down the cable (like Mobil 1 or bike chain lube).
Novel idea! My preferred lubricant for handbrake cables is diesel fuel because it both cleans and lubricates. Using your idea, I'd hang the cable vertically, put a tube over the bowden at the top end and pour diesel in to the tube so it runs down in to the cable. Work the cable up and down from the bottom end to help work the diesel through.
I actually had no idea that Diesel would help it lubricate. I know people clean stuff with Kerosene which is pretty similar (just a lot "cleaner". That's actually good to know. The last time I lubricated a cable with this method I actually used a product called "Redi-Grease" which is grease in an aerosol spray can that's mixed with an evaporating thinner. It sprays out super thin and can wick into all sorts of spaces. However, a few seconds later when the thinner evaporates it's a pretty thick grease (little thinner then wheel bearing grease). So I filled a cup with that and sucked it through. It fed through pretty well because it was sealed in the cable guide it gave enough time to get the grease through before the thinner evaporated. Knowing that diesel works that well though is awesome! Since it's really easy to flow! Thanks for the tip!!
@@OverRevvedRacing Diesel is indeed a lubricant, an essential quality of the fuel in diesel injection equipment. Diesel is ideal if you have a seized handbrake cable. As above, if removed and hung vertically, you can run diesel down into the cable to free it and lubricate it. It may be a faff and most would just fit a new cable but I serviced one on a Kia a while back where a new cable was $100. Enough incentive to spend 20 minutes freeing the cable.
I definitely knew about the fuel system lubrication properties of diesel, and how it sadly went down with the advent of "ultra low sulfur diesel". I had a 99 RAM with a Cummins. At the time you could still find pre-ULSD around and my fuel pump was considerably quieter on that. When everything became ULSD I started putting 2-stroke oil in my fuel which made the pump SO quiet you COULD actually have a conversation next to my running truck with no issues. 🤣 I guess I just never expected it to be THAT good and to use it for something like that! It's great to know and I definitely will have to fill one of my spare 1 gallon cans with some for that reason! I mentioned not even using wd-40 for lube, so many people think that's what it's for! The only thing I use it for is breaking down bearing grease or things like that when cleaning parts. I had an old Ford high pinion Dana 60 "Sno-Fighter" axle (1/2" thick axles walls) that had the knuckles completely buried in grease (you couldn't even see the u-joints). About 1 gallon of wd-40 turned it all to liquid I could just practically drain into a pan. Haha
@@OverRevvedRacing As example, a TV production called Salvage Hunters do restoration of antiques. In one episode they found a vintage slot machine, seized and covered in grime. They took it out of its case and dropped in a bath of diesel for a week, taking it once a day to lightly brush all the mechanisms. At the end of the week, all was working. Diesel being a low viscosity, it can get into all the gaps.
That's actually awesome to know!! I have an older "Japanese Skill Stop Slot Machine" that has a few small issues. For the most part it's good but the coin return mech sticks. I can't get into all the areas on it to clean it as good because it's riveted and or spot welded together. I wonder if the diesel would work on that. There are some plastic parts on it though. Not sure if it would damage those.
Product called mouse milk used in aero work. One comment on www suggests powdered graphite mixed with the liquid. Clever solve mate. Aussie here. Try it on my boat cables.
This was sort of what I was looking for but I didn't have a bleeder kit so I had an idea. I found a spray bottle, took the head off it and the end of the tube just happened to fit tightly over the end of the cable (I cut off the z bend and pulled the wire out first) and put the other end in some silicon spray and just sucked it through, easy. Thanks from Down Under and let's go Brandon.
Glad I could help!! Let me know if it works out well on them! We haven't had a boat for years. Miss it! Lake Erie on Ohio is a fickle lake though. She can get rough REALLY quick!
@@OverRevvedRacing will do! Originally from PA but never hit Erie, now in Texas and the salt water from the Gulf eats things up. I'll be workin on her this weekend and get back with ya.
Same! It definitely smells better then PB does. Works awesome for cleaning engine blocks, trans, frames, etc that are covered in grease and such. Then just wash that off with some "LAs Totally Awesome Cleaner" from the "dollar store".
PB is a solvent. So is WD40. Neither of.them, in their original formula, are lubricants. PB makes a dedicated, specific cable & chain lubricant. I believe WD40 does as well.
Using WD 40 "might as well use urine" LOL It actually works great when you are trying to unseize something and you heat it and spray it down with WD to cool and lube and repeat till you can get it loose. The wd will flow into a very tight gap. If I really want to lube something I really like Zep 2000 but it is not cheap.
I agree I've had luck with it with heat. Especially since PB Blaster messes with me BAD when it fumes from heat like that. However, standard non heat use I only use WD50 as a degreaser. It does WONDERS cutting through everything from oil to bearing grease.
Yup! Spot on Joe. Works AMAZING as a degreaser! I use it for cutting grease and oil. Bought a high pinion dana 60 axle once that was completely PACKED with grease at the knuckles so bad you couldn't even see the u-joint! Used wd-40 to melt right through it. Works great for cleaning under a car that has a bunch of grease and oil. Then just used some "LAs Totally Awesome" cleaner (dirt cheap at the Dollar Store) to break down and remove the wd-40. Best cleaning method I've ever used!
It's amazing. Plus depending on the "dollar store" they have different sizes for 1$. Up here in NE Ohio "Dollar General" sells a 20oz for 1$ but right down the road "Dollar Tree" sells a 20oz for 1$. The ebay people must have a racket going because they are selling the stuff at crazy mark ups... 10$+ per bottle 🤣
Um... PB Blaster is not a lubricant, you dolt. It's known as a penetrant, in case you've never read the can. And of course both PB and WD-40 have lubricants, some with silicone, some with conventional oils. Liquid wrench makes some, too. What I really can't understand is how you looked down on WD-40, describing it like you did, and yet that is what PB Blaster is... a low viscosity fluid like water. WD-40 doesn't have good lubricating properties, but PB Blaster has none. This is like making fun of putting mayonnaise on barbecue ribs, then proceeding to put powdered mustard on them and saying your idea is so much better.
I suppose it's not the fastest if you have your cables connected to your bike. However, with this method you can push through different fluids to clean out your cables and wash out any dirt, rust, or other particles.
Me too. Although I use it for degreaser. Works amazing at that. Sprayed it on my engine for example then let it soak in then use "LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner" (from the dollar store) to wash off the WD40 leaving amazingly clean metal behind with zero scrubbing!
