Replacement arrived!By the way, I did forget to mention that the original lure did have a decent strike however as most anglers will attest you can get a hit ru-vid.comUgkxCbNOWAGmn6nfbCbJDmasvBq7J38KZNw2 and fish will hang on and release lure. I used the replacement lure yesterday and ran thru a Shimano Waxwing, Kastmaster, Bobber (set to sink). I found the does run deep (I casting on the flats 3.5'). Make sure you adjust your rate of retrieve and rod tip angle (up) to prevent getting snagged on bottom. Used it a couple of times and action was very lifelike (looked like local bait fish for trevally), craftsmanship very good....however eyeball fell out. I asked for replacement and it is on it's way! It was very easy to change out treble to single inline hook.
*I caught this guy on my 3rd cast. Paired with these 4" trailers. **enjoyable.fishing** recommend slightly modified, I think i trimmed about 3/4 of an inch off of it. Its deadly!*
hey thanks for the kind words, i have been thinking of perhaps do another snake lure but as a jerkbait and i've been sketching some frog pattern ideas too but i will have to see if anything will come out of that, a frog is actually really challenging to do.
Very informative video and great job. I like the idea of a thin layer prior to completely pouring the silicone out. I've used compression molding systems where we added a "bump" to help remove trapped air, but this works out nice too. I've also see where people just pour into a corner and let the silicone travel over the piece. It all depends on the material. Keep up the great job!
The best mold tutorial I’ve seen. After you make a mold what do you do to help keep it in great condition. Thanks for your help and enjoy your channel.
Were im from this is a hobby for retired old men in cabins by a lake somewere and Yet yoir not old and you have Deathmetal playin in the background Rock on man great video
Yeah that makes perfect sense, I guess I'm just trying to be a bit too much of a perfectionist, love the lures by the way, I'm not as good as you are yet but I'm working my way up, gradually adding more detail in a mission to make really detailed lures, for me detail adds confidence when fishing with them. Thanks for the help
very helpfull vid, I started making moulds a couple of weeks ago and I was wondering how you remove the grain from the wood so that it doesn't show up in the plastic?
yeah that smooth cast 300 is rather heavy for jerkbaits, and i dont use it my self anymore for them, there are few tricks that i do do add some buoyancy to it, you can add micro spheres or you can add something inside the body cavity that floats naturally like balsa wood.
Great video, thanks for posting and sharing it. Will you be making a video of you pouring and making a bait in the mold you made? Iv'e been wanting to play with those mold techniques for a while now as all my baits as of now are made strickly from wood. I have some ideas for some jointed swim baits, but would like to make them from a mold and make them from some kind of plastic. Thanks again as you have added more feathers to my hat. Rich
Great video SolarBaits it was very informative. I love the scale pattern on your bait and was wondering how you do it? I usually use scale burning tools, but I am interested in how you create the texture?
thats nice to hear. what comes to your question,I've cover that in my never videos on the "swimbait making tutorial part 2 how to carve gills, scales and fins" how ever im not sure if your able to view it in your country i was little bit thoughtless when making it as i had some music plying in the background so that video is blocked in some countries because of that.
Really nice job very informative will the silicon take the heat of a lead poor & is there a specific type of silicon to use & suggestion where you get it, thank you
i use harder woods when carving a model, you don't have to sand them too much for in order for you to get the grain disappear enough that it does not come a nuisance later on. but really you want to have little bit of roughness to the surfaces, this way primer and paint stick to it better.
Fantastic tutorial as usual thanks! Have you figured a simple way to make the silicone shavings from botched molds? I've tried with a blade, but takes ages, and shavings are usually too thick. Also tried a cheese grater, but didn't work. Thanks
hey dude great work! ive been watching your videos and your work is impressive. ive been trying to give a shot at making my own mold but i wanted to learn as much as i can before doing it. im going to try making the mold soon since i have the master 90% complete just.. im just curious. after you pour, do you screw im the eyelets or hand made screws, handware, hindge screws etc etc, or do you place them on the mold before pouring? any info would be appreciated, again great work!!0
if im making a lure that will have screw eyes i will not put them on the master before i pour the mold silicone. however if I'm making a lure that has thru wire system i put those on the master before it mold it.
im assuming you mean the door hinges that I've used in my swimbaits? if so they are dead easy to make i'm sure you can find some tutorials reference pictures in the net
awesome vid. legos, awesome. I love how there is always metal playing in the background. it occurred to me though, when I was agreeing with your thoughts on waiting 24 hours- why not just pour a one piece mold and cut the piece out along a parting line? assuming you could pour a block that big with no bubbles. just a thought. I will be using your legos idea
you could do that but it becomes harder to align the 2 pieces together when you would pour the resin. if you would just cut it like it would be still sticking together from one side and you would open it like a book it becomes harder to attach the wiring inside the mold if you use wire like i do here especially if your using rigid silicone like i prefer to use. it's certainly possible to do it like that( and i have few early molds that i did do it the way you mentioned) but i find this to be a better way for the kind of lures i make.
Thx to your videos I was able to learn few new stuff. Could you recommend a plastic mixture which will be really good. I will be using it only in saltwater and the fish I will be catching are blue fish, rooster fish,jacks etc. which have teeth.
i used a pencil and a stencil that i did to draw all the scales and then just carved them with a knife, it takes a little bit of time to do i think i spend 10h or lil more with this one
A really nice and simple tutorial! Good work...as always :). Btw: I wonder what will be your next project, since you now have nearly covered all the bait fish pikes are used to feed on. Did you ever thought about carving frogs, or rats...or a duckling? I know your topwater snakes just were kind of a carving practice, but I`d really love to see some more of that kind! Oh, and before i forget about it, did your baits win anything in this bait contest you entered? Greets and keep up the good work!
i'm not exactly sure, but i'm thinking around 30-40 € if i count all the materials. you can make hundreds if not thousands of of lures with the same mold, you can also use this material for soft plastic lure pouring.
Mark Simpson you could do this on a 3 axis too but it would be much easier on a 3+1, 3+2, or a true 5 axis machine. I have already planned and started programming the molds for what I want to make. 😎
When you cast your lures in resin, do you add in the hook wire to the mold before you pour the resin ? Or do you cast the lure then drill holes to glue in small screw eyes?
Great job! Thanks for shareing. What is the weight of the liquid plastic after hardening. Is it floating,and can it be used for small (4-5sm.) floating lures or its to heavy?
well i guess most of liquid plastics that are being sold sink but there are also products that float too like shooth-on feather lite also you can make sinking plastics float by adding micro spheres to the mix before you pour it this adds air bobbles inside the resin and makes it become more buoyant
SolarBaits Thanks for the answer! Well I will gonna order smoot-on "mold max 30" for the molds making,and gonna get lite version of smooth cast resin. I hope that will work for floating lures. Thanks again!
i dont use any, i flex the pour hole wide enough with my thump and index finger so that usually all of the air bobbles will be able to get out from the hole
So, a couple of questions. First, if the clay is not the material you are using to make the actual mold, why is it necessary to go through the press/test/excavate process so many times to get the fit perfect? Second, what was the purpose of those flakes you added?
basically yes to get a good fit and so that that there is little as possible flash (excess material that might flow if the seam in the parting line is done badly) to make things easier later on. the purpose of those silicone flakes is simply to add more volume to the silicone and you can re-use some of the molds you might have that you don't use anymore or have screwed up somehow, its not necessary just a little trick i sometimes use.
For me , when using smooth cast 300 for a jerk bait ,I find the lure is little to heavy when all the metal work is on the lure ,. what am I doing wrong... . Any tips on weighting of these lures ...
Nice how to argain! I see u dont use the oomoo 30 any more? Is this better or last longer? U my self used oomoo 25 because i cant get the 30 here. And i see u shape the lure in to the clay i pushed it in there and it went good are u having, maybe it was lucky 1 try:). Do you have difficulties with that in the past or to besure?
Hey Solar, just curious if you have any other materials you use in your resin molds besides silicone. I'm trying to build a mold with a thru wire and swivels holding the belly hooks, but I'm afraid that the belly hole won't release from a piece of silicone that's in the belly 4-5cm deep but only a cm or so wide... I was thinking of using some sort of a dowel, but this resin sticks to EVERYTHING!
No i havent used anything else besides silicone molds, regarding your issue thats a tricky one especially when your using a thru wire system and i cant think of any good way of you doing it other than not doing it as a thru wire system and just molding the swivels into the lure
this silicone has much better tear point and its more rigid so it suits me better. some clays are stiffer than others i guess mine was stiffer cos there is no way in hell i could just push it in lol
hi just wondering have you tried or can to u recommend any other resin other then smooth cast 300 or federlite ... I have them both ,but would like to try more ... Thanks ...
hey man 1st great video but im lookin for a video to make a mold for a silicon bait not a hard bait because i have a bait that they longer make so i wanna try and make somemore of them any suggestions??
internet is full of online stores, it should not be too difficult to find a store in your country that has the same or equivalent materials that i used in my video.
Did you ever try to make hollow lure?? I have duplicated my swimmer but its little to heavy even if i use lighter plastic mix. So I wonder if you have an idea how to make a mold that can make the lure partially hollow.
mine are all solid resin, the type of hollow chamber lures that you're describing would not even be possible with this sort of mold material as it flexes and those abs plastic baits are usually injection molded where the plastic is being directed into the mold with a lot of pressure so the molds they use on those are usually always made from metal.
haha i cant remember anymore what music i played in the background while making this and frankly im too lazy to skip thru the video to see if its really the case but its possible i do listen to little bit of alestorm once in a while. anyways for casting the resin blanks i usually use feather lite from smooth on.
i have added no adds to any of my videos if you see some its youtubes doing. btw you can get rid of any annoying commercials with addblock plus add-on to your web browser, that's what i use for firefox and google chrome ;)
I've also had good luck brushing a thin layer of silicone on my mold master with a cheap brush. Good idea on using shredded up molds as filler! I have a few I need to do that to.
This seems like a very hard way to make a mold. You could just pour some silicon in your mold 1/4” and let it harden. Lay your fish in and pour up to the appropriate line. You can press in dowels for alignment. After it dries pull out the fish and dowels. That’s the bottom or top half. Finish the same way. I realize the clay is the standard way but I don’t get it. You can pour half way up. It’s not that hard and way faster.
i assume that you mean casting resin? you can get it online just google it and you'll see bunch of companies that sell resin casting products , few that spring to mind are alumilite and smooth-on
thats very true but i cant make a master myself so just want to use a lure i already have, wouldent be selling it , and i cant afford £13 a soft lure companys are charging too much. pike where i live are all crazy , one trip out with a soft lure and u come back with half a lure.
making a master is really easy. Not sure if you have ever heard of sculpey clay but its basically like play dough that you can shape just about anything out of it. and when you are done you just bake it in an oven for 15 mins and it becomes hard and you can use it as a mold master.
that sounds alot easyier than wood , thankyou! so all i need is sculpey clays for my master, clay and silicone for mould, plastisol for the lure? looks abit expensive to start off , ill have to start saving . would you say making your own soft lures is cheaper overall?
ultimatefishingzone well that depends solely on the fact where you live, google is your friend here, there are plenty of online stores that sell mold making supplies ;)