How to make a beautiful chess piece 

Thank you for the lesson. I’ve been using Carveco for almost a year now and I learn something new every time I open it. This is a definite “must try”. Fingers crossed 🤞

Great detail !!!

So many questions answered!! Thankyou very much for this video!!

Great video!

Great stuff will have to try this.

A really great tutorial Vernon well presented. I was delighted to meet you both at Maker Central.

WOW, and another great view by VERNON THE GREAT. You really show how to make great projects. Please keep them comin, OK. I just love these inspiring videos.

Great video, I am likely to watch it several times, then go to pen and paper for the steps. I have a widescreen monitor and I think I can put your video on one side and Carveco on the other and work through the steps. I have wanted to make a chess set for some time. Thanks for the tutorial. I encourage you to go ahead with the next step.

Thank you for the heavy lifting here. I can really appreciate your experience and you make it very easy to understand. Question- Have you been able to 3d carve from a photo from your phone? or just a simple jpeg? I have been looking into this and I believe you need to convert "properly" the image to a good quality 3d greyscale heightmap with accentuated contrasts and edges that the software can understand.

From Instagram to here 😉. Subscribed!

Looking at your probe, it's thicker than the aluminium crossbar. Why don't you place the probe on the solid piece of wood below the crossbar? It's flat and have body to place the probe instead of a balancing act with a wedge above that crossbar. Order of carving: You advice to do the sides first. How exactly do you proceed? First the roughing cut on 1 side, rotate the piece of wood 180 degrees and roughing the second half. Than change the bit for the finishing cut. Rotate 180 degrees again for the second half. Followed by the finishing cut for the front and back? Basically you only set the Z once for the end mill to cut the 2 sides. When finished you set the Z for the ball nose to cut 2 sides plus front and back. Or do you have 2 tool changes for each side?

Great tutorial, well done on the explanations. I believe you can save yourself the math though. You basically want a bottom offset of 1/2 of your material or 0.875 in this case. If you enter that into the bottom offset Carveco will calculate all the rest. Nicely done, cant wait to try it out.

Great tutorial with some good hints. Note you are using Maker +. Will this work on just Maker?

Excellent video, I did a piece, first attempt, didn't set the offset like you said. Turned out ok but not great. One question, instead of going through the math, couldn't you just put half the material thickness in the bottom offset box and be done with it?

Could you save some time by revising your rectangular boundary for the last two cuts? Seems like the majority of the material is removed in the first two iterations, and on the third and fourth cut you are spending most of of the time in free air not cutting anything. Could you lower the boundary box X width down to about 1/4" or less just to take care of the remaining material? Haven't actually carried out the process on my own yet so I could be missing some details.

nice, but why not calculate that seam left over what thickness it is and adjust the carving on both sides so its perfect from 2 processess instead of 4?

Great video, easy to follow. Thanks again for a great tutorial video. Hi all, im new to the cnc world, what tools or company would be best recommend for a job like this? so I can get and load the tool database into my machine, cheers all.

Sir, I have a couple of questions if u don't mind. ref chess to chess set. I have followed all of your instructions and I am getting better. the problem I am running in to is when I do the finish the piece is being cut off at the top and flys off of . I know u said to leave a little at the top I have done that but it cuts all the way through I am using carveco maker on silverback 6060 and easel for the g code.the other thing I find that the pieces are being cut very thin. and prone to break while carving . thank you for your time . and that u in advance.

afrer u zero for the roughing cut where do u zero for the finishing . I tried the same zero for finishing but bit not touching. thanks.

I only have Carveco Maker and not the PLUS ... Can I still do this? This is awesome!!!

ماشاء الله تبارك الرحمن ٠٠٠٠ماكينه ممتازه جدا هل بامكانهاصنع الشطرنج الخشب الكلاسيكي٠٠٠وكم ثمنها واصله الي ليبيا بنغازي بالدولار ٠٠٠٠

Sir, ref chess set. in your video u said the stock was 2x2 all around u also stated that the stock must be trimed to 1.1/4 is that all four sides . also the settings in the toolpaths are they used for all four sides. back ,right, and so on and for the rest of the set. thanks.

I have tried doing these but the ears on my knight always break off onfinish passes I used a 1mm tapered ball mill Would you have any idea how I can avoid the ears from breaking

Can this be done with vcarve?

Carveco show the same chess set, same design, same process with its maker, an elderly gentleman using his 3018 machine, here on RU-vid at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-stOjPAeajGw.html so who came to this first?

what am i doing wrong. i ran the rough left side. then the rough right side and they are offset. then i started to run the final cut on the front and it was again offset. any clues i adjusted each offset on each side to be 50 percent of the material

Couldn’t you just link to the guy who made those first? You even used the same models he did……

You have just used Paul Kelsall's design and instructions, the least you can do is give him credit