I’m gonna get my kid into saddle hunting this year, this is perfect for getting him to understand how this stuff works and having him take pride in learning a skill
Your manner of instructions is to the point and easy to understand. You obviously have mastered the subject material and have eliminated the fluff. Keep up the good work.
I’ve watched this a bunch of times and I built the confidence to do this myself and I feel safe about. I did not really like the XOP ropes that came with my mondo saddle, and if your gut says no then don’t do it (I’m sure they are fine just super thick and shorter than what I want). Sincerely thank you so much! Your recommendations will save lives compared to other videos I’ve watched.
At 11:10 you mentioned another way of making a poachers/scaffold knot of "make the wraps and push the bite through." I saw on another video that this is actually incorrect and makes a Death Knot which can be potentially dangerous as the tag end can pull out when load is applied. EDIT: To clarify you just don't want to make a bite with the tag end and pull through, you would want to use the standing end
I’m sure there ARE ways to do it incorrectly, but you CAN tie it correctly by doing it as I mentioned. In fact, MANY people do so - including my friend John RB who is a knot & safety freak 😁👍
Question. I noticed you didn't put a stopper knot on the tag ends of your poachers knots and on the tag end from your loop. Is that because when tied properly stopper knots are not needed on those tag ends ?
Got my tether made by watching this video! My question is, could this same method be used to make a longer lines used to rappel as well? Basically, I’d like to do some pre sets with paracord. And use this 8mm as my line.
Not a hunter or climber, but useful survival or safety information for the future. I love the way you humbly present your knowledge. Thanks for sharing.
Thank You for the great information that you share for hunters like me who want to saddle hunt. In my area I know of no one that saddle hunts so I am learning from your knowledge and experience. I am 63 years old and now have 1 year of saddle hunting in the bank. 👊
Great step by step video sir! I use the same tender on my tether and lineman belt as well. Simple, easy, and cheap. Oh and awesome hoodie you have on there if you done mind me saying sir! 👊🏼
In climbing it is generally considered a no-no to have only one point of failure between yourself and the ground. Obviously 100+ feet with dynamic loads are different but it still seems sort of wild to have one point of failure. Thoughts? Currently I am using a dynamic cclimbing rope as a back up and for climbing I simply use an arborist ball, ascender and grigri since I am comfortable with that…. Basically harness attached like yours but a dynamic climbing rope below and attached with an 8 on a bite and locker.
You will always hear me and anyone else that’s halfway credible in the saddle-hunting world say this: you have to evaluate your system and do what YOU feel comfortable with. Now, having said that … I’ve literally got over a thousand climbs using the gear I use. Our ropes (as you well know, if you come from the climbing world) are rated well above an 8,000-lb breaking strength. Saddle hunters should never experience the whip effect that is possible in rock climbing… at least not nearly to the extent possible in that realm.
Good video. I do the same thing but have a sewn eye on my Oplux lineman’s that I bought from Wild Edge a few years back. Same with Tether. They’re $40 each though, so not a cheap as tying a knot for a loop. Friction knot (I use a Catalyst Friction Hitch) and tender is the same. Got rid of the Ropeman 1’s.
@@tracea06 I thought they were combersome to use with gloves on and my carabiner was always turning sideways in it when it was not loaded. I probably would have had better luck with a round carabiner but didn't want to spend the money on new ones. I feel safer with the friction hitch ropes too. I usually backed up the Ropeman with a friction prusik anyway so, no need to have both. I feel the rope packs better without the Ropemans. Lighter in my dump pouch. Quieter.
So I live up north here in ME and actually was an arborist for years backs in late 90’s so the saddle thing has always interested me. Also up here walking in 5 miles to hunt can be very common so my climbing stand gets left in truck a lot as it’s to much to drag through thick woods we hunt unless your gonna make a pre trip and leave it for future use. This brings me to the saddle game and not opposed to spending money but like a little of the DIY stuff. I’ve actually settled on the CGM Cobra saddle for low profile but need ropes now. Where do you go about buying the ropes you have in this video? Is Oplux the was to go or is something like the vapor line latitude uses better? Luv the video!!!
I've bought most of my ropes over the past few years from Eastern Woods Outdoors.. I used to use a lot of Oplux, but a couple years ago switched to RescTech. Same 8mm thickness but higher MBS. I haven't tried Latitude's ropes yet. Thanks for the kind words! :)
@@StaggsintheWild I’ve read a few things on some forums that are saying the oplux has started failing pinhole test after about 50-60 hunts. Now different ropes but my arborist ropes lasted years if you took care of them. How long should I expect these ropes to last with normal use and taking good care of them?
@@pathfinder5804 most everyone I know expects to get at least 10 years out of them. Provided you don’t sustain an actual fall or have anything catastrophic happen to them, I see no reason they couldn’t last longer.
@@StaggsintheWild That’s awesome!!! I know it’s been a few years but didn’t think things would change that much and even if they did that all these companies making tethers and LB’s would sell them to customers knowing they would fail “inside” of a yr or two without some sort of unusual event happening!!! Again thanks for the advise I look forward to more of your videos and trying out some of these products up here in the north country!!!
So here’s a crazy question I have friend that does a lot of rock climbing and he does a lot of hand sewn eyes on his ropes. Would that be something you would think is an option instead of having all the knots?
100$ for a tether that your life depends on sumone will complain about is expensive but not think twice about dropping 1000$ for the newest bow thats gonna give them 3 feet per second more speed...bowhunters are a rare breed including myself
So I’m a new saddle hunter. I’m 320lbs. My question is will this system hold up under that weight and also, what carabiner would you recommend for someone with my weight? For both tether and lineman’s rope?
The equipment we use is rated to thousands of pounds … so, yes - it will work with zero problems. Here is the carabiner I use and prefer: amzn.to/3tAG3qX
@@cbs196 IMO you’d be way better off abandoning that and going with 8mm RescTech and a 6mm friction hitch … you would be carrying half the weight and bulk. But that’s just me. 😁
@@StaggsintheWild Im talking about building sticks, aiders, swaiders, knaiders, versa-aiders, steps, platforms, ring of steps, saddles, etc etc on and on as Im learning this list doesnt end and everything is hundreds and hundreds of dollars..
@@atubeviewer4942 I have several videos covering all that gear but I don’t build any; I do, however, always tell where you can buy the stuff I show on video.
@@tracea06 I haven’t bought any in a while, but I’ve had great success with a lot of companies reaching out to them over the phone to see what they could do if I ordered just something small.
I noticed your tending your hitch by holding the carabiner but does it work the same as when you tend the hitch with the tag end of your rope on the lineman’s or the tree tether?
Ropeman1s aren't rated for 8mm rope... I do have a bevy of Kong Ducks I use on some setups. Don't buy the Ropeman2; they'll chew your ropes up. If you want a mechanical ascender, go with the Kong Duck or CT Roll 'N lock.
@@prestonginther5624 They're only rated for 10-13 mm ropes... I (and most saddle hunters these days) use 8 mm ropes. Both Kong Ducks and CT RollNlocks are rated to handle every rope a Ropeman1 is PLUS all the way down to 8 mm -- making them much more capable in terms of what they can handle.
Where can the restec rope you mentioned be purchased from? And is there anywhere else to get the TRC, as apparently it can only be purhcased on the Sterling Rope company site at pre-determined lenghts with the shortest being 165'?
@@JD-ft2lr yes, if you’re using a figure 8 or Munter hitch with a carabiner. It’s out of spec for a Madrock, though lots of people still use it with one.
@StaggsintheWild thanks. All things considered I think I'll go with 9mm. Trying to ease into this style hunting. My tree time to date has been with hang on stand and screw in steps. Deer and elk mostly in WA state and 99% of time is on the ground. So trying to keep it simple, versatile and affordable. I'm an avid diy guy (metal fab, tig welding, sewing, etc), so can definitely keep some costs down. Thanks for the great content on your channel.
For tethers 8mm is fine. Lineman's should be 11mm static. Good and stiff for flipping up the tree. The weight is nominal, and daisy-chaining keeps the bulk out of your pouch.
The thing is a lineman’s isn’t meant to be used as an ascension device. It should only be used as a POSITIONING device. Lineman’s belts are not fall restraint systems.
