Great info sir! Thank you for your law enforcement service. My father was a retired Oklahoma Highway Patrolman and I have nothing but utmost respect for all of our law officers.
Don't blanket them all with respect, we've seen recently all too many willing to pick up the tin star to hide behind it their evil intent and use and abuse their power to bully the common person. Respect is earned not pinned to your shirt.
Here here I second this. These guys see all the ugliness in society and yet GunBlue has retained respect for his fellow man. So much so he has given us a gift of his life long firearms experience. I have spent many a rainy day inside watching him and I may not agree with everything, I like listening to him anyway.
Thanks Sam tennery for the pointless history lesson on your father. Tell uncle Pete that Julius said hello. I hope you are doin well and can’t wait to see you this summer. Take care sweetheart
You wouldn't want to be here! We've still got 10 inches of snow and it will continue to drop into the 20's nightly for another month. But that keeps the maple sap running for incredible pancake syrup!
The definition of the term "chamfer" is to to apply a bevel to an edge. You are correct that the bevel must not create a sharp edge of the neck wall. It should , however, relieve the inside edge and not just remove any burrs. The purpose being to prevent shaving off jacket material when seating the bullet. For precision, I trim every firing even if I just burnish the neck. Consistent neck lengths = consistent bullet release = consistent velocity.
Thank you again sir. I love this series of precision hand loading. I bet a lot of your viewers would love to see you crown a rifle barrel with that Wilson chamfer debit tool. Could be another game changer for all your viewers! You gave me the courage to glass bed my first rifle that was 6 rifles ago. Thank you!!
My tip is buy Lapua brass if available. Little to no preparation required, very consistent and lasts a long time. Your time is the most valuable asset you have, you can't buy any more and have no idea how much of it you have. In my humble opinion that's worth the cost. Naturally if you have bucket loads of brass already and enjoy the process prep away 🙂 Love listening to these videos keep up the great work. Edit: I think the higher quality brass has drilled rather than punched flash holes.
Glad you are back home captain. Your order of operations makes a lot of sense to me and is pure logic for the tools that you use. Truth be told, when my family and I watched your rifle reloading series from years past, we went out and copied the tools and press that you used. We make some really consistent ammo on them. Well, this series falls nicely in line with the previous series that you did with some really nice supplemental content that we will adopt. May the Good Shepard bless you many-fold!
I began watching your videos on u-tube out of curiosity and I am now convinced that your videos are the most practical and professional tutorials available anywhere......what a wealth of knowledge that also has wisdom along with it. Thank you for your excellent video presentations........and may God Bless your efforts !!
Thank you sir for sharing your life experience and know how with us. Absolutely awesome…I have said this before you produced the best gun videos on RU-vid. You have been such a blessing to us, God bless.👍
Very good. I’ve been reloading for over 50 years and just started to weigh rifle cases 5 years ago. I enjoy the process and certainly want to do the best I can.
Greetings from Australia. I have been following this series closely and I wish to thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. Best wishes to you all and Benny sir.
Thank You Sir . I use the same trim to length and burr removal process . I'm going to get a flash hole dressing tool now . Thanks for your service , and God Bless .
Never heard of doing that but it makes sense. Lee also makes their quick trim and delux trimmer which works phenomenally, consistent down to the thousandth. I mounted a drill behind my Lee APP press, plugged into a foot pedal switch, and used a flexible bit holder and a 90 degree bit connected to the trimmer. The press feeds the case, lower the lever, use my foot to trim/deburr the case
Wonderful information....When I first started reloading, I started out using the Lyman flash hole uniformer as well as the Wilson chamfer tool. I also use a Primer pocket depth uniformer which I believe is a Sinclair or perhaps a wilson....no name on it and was bought back in early 1990's. It has carbide cutters which uniform the depth of the primer pocket, and I am sometimes amazed at the amount of brass shavings I get from the primer pockets. Mostly, the ones with the pockets that yield the most shavings are from factory ammo once fired and or once fired military cases.
Good series! Thank you! I used to do this for all my hunting and Service Rifle Match ammo. (due to arthritis in my back, I no longer hunt or shoot competition). Does it really work? Yes, from a benchrest at 100 yards, or 200 yards I could measure a difference. This was always the most accurate ammo I produced. Did that translate to better scores at 600 yards when fired from a prone position? Better scores at 200 yards when fired offhand without support (except for a sling)? Probably yes, but maybe not for the obvious reason. In that case the *shooter* is more important than the rifle and ammunition The biggest benefit for me, IMO, was *confidence* in my ammunition. If you do not have confidence in your ammunition, you may as well not even enter the competition or go hunting. It was absolutely worth the effort for me.
The redding flash hole uniformer has an over travel stop built into the cutting head end so you don't remove too much brass material. This comes in handy in case you forget which brass already had the flash holes uniformed or in case you want to uniform the flash holes before trimming the brass.
Thank you for your service, Sir. I am okay making my match ammunition...but I am really paying attention to this series because I know I am learning a lot more with the fine details you are teaching. For example, I am removing too much brass when chamfer and deburring the neck as well as when I deburred the flash hole. The ones I did are my first 100 cases and will definitely do better on my next batch of cases. Thank you very much for this series.
First, instead of a loading block, I use a long board when weighing cases. Then I further divide by the lightest 50 and the heaviest 50 and the 100 middle cases and I keep them all segregated thereafter. How do I do that, you may ask? I scratch a durable mark on the headstamp with a scratch awl and it is a permanent reference, such as: /22-250 for the light cases or 22-250/ to mark the heavy cases. The middle 100 have no mark. That way they can all go in the tumbler and I can sort them out as I am doing the final loading. So the light cases will have slightly lower chamber pressures and the heavier will have slightly higher chamber pressures....theoretically. Anyway, for accuracy work, I stay within the weighed group, whichever it is and that small nick on the case head is easily identifiable. Some people cull their brass, but that's kind of a waste, after you have completed all of your "uniforming" to arrive at the finished product. Works for me! (I'm slowly going through some of your earlier videos, so my remarks may not be as timely as possible)
Hello Mr. Gunblue, I love your videos, thanks for making them. You've mentioned your patreon doners several times. If you have a link or something for this, I'd love to help support your channel.
First off, a huge thank you for sharing your expertise in so many areas. When weighing cases, how much variation do you tolerate in order to achieve consistent pressures? For example, if all my resized and trimmed cases are within 1 grain difference, will that be sufficient for MOA testing? Should there be less variation than 1 grain difference in weight? I know less is better but have been pulling what little hair I have out trying to sort cases by weight when developing loads.
You title says how to make super accurate ammo, you left out the annealing process before the resizing step. Its a step that will greatly improve consistency, and brass life.😉
Quite the opposite. Civilian sales of guns, ammo, and components, and the demand for them exceeds current manufacturing capacity at all levels. Our private club has doubled in membership over the last five years, and shooting activity among members has increased significantly. Every range that I know of has had to provide additional facilities in recent years and upgrades as never before in order to accommodate this increases shooting interest. What you're seeing in cost increase is the simple effect of supply and demand that occurs with any commodity in a free market. It's also unfortunately much the result of hoarding that has been going on for the last 15 years, as people exhaust dealer supplies, buying everything up as soon as stock arrives. Prior to that, people bought a box at a time, as needed, from fully stocked shelves. Now, the same people are buying in quantity in order to stock up for a rainy day. This is a cyclic trend that relaxed under the previous Administration and became invigorated again with this one.
I have been using the new tool on my once fired brass primer hole and find that at least half and maybe much more have some sort of burr on the primer hole. I did all the .243 and am starting on the .30-06. The .30-30 will be after that. Thanks GunBlue490.
I'm not familiar with the flash hole uniformer. Just to be clear, I understood you to say it should be used only after you've trimmed each case to a uniform length. Will this one tool work on any flash hole or do I need different size uniformers?
One size fit all flash holes. Yes it’s best if all cases are trimmed to the same length for the flash home uniformed to chamfer every flash hole uniformly.
